[0:00] hi guys i'm steve laminate florists have
[0:03] the same great look as hardwood floors
[0:04] and they're easy to install and today
[0:06] I'll walk you through the steps to
[0:08] install your own Lowe's has many styles
[0:12] of laminate floors to fit any home but
[0:14] today we're using pergo timber craft
[0:16] Plus web protect so protects against
[0:18] spills and pet accidents it's waterproof
[0:20] so you can even wet mop it and this one
[0:23] is antique barnwood style so it's gonna
[0:24] look great now before we begin we've got
[0:27] to make sure we have all the necessary
[0:28] tools to help you out you put a handy
[0:31] reference list in the description below
[0:32] also make sure to read the
[0:35] manufacturer's instructions they'll
[0:37] include helpful tips for installing on a
[0:39] variety of subjects specific to the
[0:43] flooring you're installing them as
[0:45] always if you're not confident about
[0:47] installing something yourself see a
[0:49] Lowe's associate for help the first step
[0:51] is to prep your subfloor pergo is pretty
[0:53] forgiving can stand up to 3/16 of an
[0:55] inch unevenness across ten feet but for
[0:58] more information on leveling your
[1:00] subfloor we put a link to that video in
[1:02] the description below now as you can see
[1:04] we have a door framed undercut to get
[1:07] the height of the cut stack a piece of
[1:09] underlayment and laminate next to the
[1:11] doorframe and use an oscillating saw to
[1:13] cut also you might have to install
[1:16] underlayment some flooring comes with
[1:18] pre-installed underlayment on the planks
[1:20] but again refer to your manufacturer's
[1:22] instructions for the product you're
[1:24] using I've also put spacers around the
[1:28] perimeter of the wall to provide an
[1:30] expansion gap I've taped them to the
[1:32] baseboards so they don't move around
[1:34] during installation for this pergo floor
[1:37] they recommend a 3/8 inch spacer but
[1:40] check your manufacturer's instructions
[1:41] to be sure meanwhile I've measured the
[1:44] square footage of the room with
[1:46] multiplied by length so I know how much
[1:48] flooring to get then I added 10 percent
[1:51] more just to count for any waste or
[1:53] mistakes
[1:54] next I brought the flooring in to the
[1:56] installation room to let the planks
[1:57] acclimate to the temperature and
[1:59] humidity you want to do this at least 48
[2:01] hours prior to installation so now that
[2:04] we're ready to install I've chosen to
[2:06] start along this wall based on the
[2:08] manufacturer's instructions you want to
[2:10] go from left to right along the
[2:12] August straightest wall typically
[2:14] exterior walls are more straight than
[2:15] interior walls also to make sure you
[2:18] don't end up with any tiny slivers for
[2:20] the last row measure the length of the
[2:22] room and divide by the width of the
[2:24] plank not including the tongue or groove
[2:26] so if you have a room like this that's a
[2:28] hundred eighty three point seven inches
[2:30] wide subtract three eighths inch from
[2:33] each side then divide by the width of
[2:35] the plank six point one two five and
[2:38] you'll get about twenty nine point eight
[2:40] seven planks take the remaining bit to
[2:43] find the width of the last row that's
[2:45] point eight seven and multiplied by the
[2:48] width of the plank six point one two
[2:50] five and you'll get a last row that is
[2:53] roughly five and three eighths inches
[2:55] I've inspected the planks and it looks
[2:58] great so now we're ready to begin the
[3:00] first thing you want to do is lay down
[3:02] the first row with a tongue side facing
[3:05] your starting ball the one thing I
[3:07] recommend is blending planks from
[3:09] various cartons to ensure a mixture of
[3:11] colors and shades when you're happy with
[3:14] the layout cut the tongue off the long
[3:16] side of the pieces don't forget to also
[3:21] cut the tongue off the short side of
[3:23] your first piece as it'll need to fit in
[3:25] the corner against the spacers now
[3:28] before we assemble row one and put it
[3:30] into place lay out a second row of
[3:31] tongue side facing the wall again make
[3:35] sure to offset the board's by at least
[3:36] six inches to avoid H joints then cut a
[3:40] plank at length is needed but save your
[3:41] trim sections because you can use these
[3:43] pieces to start other rows okay now that
[3:49] we've got a cut you're going to want to
[3:51] install the planks using this all
[3:52] turning pattern going to rows at a time
[3:56] all pergo floors have a click lock
[3:58] system to make it easy to do yourself
[4:00] just insert the tongue into the groove
[4:03] along the long side then rotate down
[4:05] locks into place do the same for the
[4:09] next two planks join in the short end
[4:11] first to close the gap in the long side
[4:13] lift the outside edge of the plank just
[4:16] about an inch and firmly push until the
[4:19] edges meet then rotate down to lock
[4:22] because this is a floating laminate
[4:24] floor we're not using any adhesive nails
[4:27] or staples so now we can simply slide
[4:29] the first two rows into their final
[4:32] position now that they're in their place
[4:36] measure and cut your final end pieces
[4:38] and corner pieces again accounting for
[4:41] the expansion gap then use your tapping
[4:45] block or pull bar to tighten repeat
[4:48] these steps using the same alternating
[4:50] plank technique to complete the floor
[4:57] if you encounter any obstructions like
[4:59] pipe or floor events use a jigsaw to cut
[5:01] the flooring to fit always maintain that
[5:04] expansion gap for the last row you may
[5:07] have to cut the pieces to fit measure
[5:10] the width needed subtracting the
[5:12] expansion gap and cut lengthwise
[5:17] when installing around the doorway slide
[5:20] the plank at least a quarter inch under
[5:21] the doorframe leaving concealed 3/8 inch
[5:24] expansion gap then with your tapping
[5:27] block or pull bar tap the long size
[5:30] closed first
[5:31] then tap the short side closed to finish
[5:34] up measure and cut your final corner
[5:36] plank insert the tongue into the long
[5:38] side align the short side rotate down
[5:42] then use your pull bar and hammer on the
[5:44] long side to lock into place then tap
[5:47] the short side closed next remove all
[5:51] spacers and for wall the wall waterproof
[5:56] protection fill all the expansion gaps
[5:58] with compressible PE 3/8 inch chrome
[6:00] backer rod and covering with 100%
[6:02] silicone sealing coat the perimeter
[6:05] including any door frames or other fixed
[6:07] objects making sure the silicone
[6:09] connects from the edge of the floor to
[6:11] the wall but only a light coating is
[6:13] needed so wipe away any excess then
[6:16] install any baseboards transitions and
[6:20] shoe moldings to the walls make sure not
[6:23] to drive any nails into your new floor
[6:25] now you have a gorgeous affordable
[6:28] waterproof floor that replicates the
[6:30] look and feel of real hardwood and you
[6:33] did it yourself
[6:34] [Music]
[6:46] you