---
title: 'How to Install Laminate Flooring'
source: 'https://youtube.com/watch?v=LJvcMp_21VE'
video_id: 'LJvcMp_21VE'
date: 2026-06-28
duration_sec: 0
---

# How to Install Laminate Flooring

> Source: [How to Install Laminate Flooring](https://youtube.com/watch?v=LJvcMp_21VE)

## Summary

This video provides a step-by-step guide to installing laminate flooring, focusing on Pergo TimberCraft Plus. It covers preparation, installation techniques, and finishing touches for a waterproof, hardwood-like floor.

### Key Points

- **Introduction to Laminate Flooring** [0:00] — Laminate floors look like hardwood and are easy to install. The featured product is Pergo TimberCraft Plus, which is waterproof and can be wet mopped.
- **Tools and Instructions** [0:27] — Check manufacturer's instructions for specific tips. Use a reference list in the description for tools.
- **Subfloor Preparation** [0:51] — Subfloor can be uneven up to 3/16 inch over 10 feet. Undercut door frames using an oscillating saw.
- **Spacers, Measurement, and Acclimation** [1:28] — Use spacers for a 3/8 inch expansion gap. Measure room square footage and add 10% for waste. Acclimate flooring for at least 48 hours.
- **Planning the Layout** [2:04] — Start along the straightest wall (usually exterior). Calculate last row width to avoid thin slivers.
- **Installing the First Rows** [3:00] — Lay first row with tongue facing wall, cut off tongue on first piece. Blend planks from different cartons. Offset joints by at least 6 inches.
- **Click-Lock Assembly** [3:49] — Use click-lock system: insert tongue into groove and rotate down. Install two rows at a time in an alternating pattern.
- **Handling Obstructions and Last Row** [4:57] — Use a jigsaw for obstructions. For the last row, cut planks lengthwise. Use pull bar to tighten.
- **Finishing and Sealing** [5:51] — Remove spacers, fill expansion gaps with backer rod and silicone sealant. Install baseboards and transitions without nailing into the floor.

## Transcript

hi guys i'm steve laminate florists have
the same great look as hardwood floors
and they're easy to install and today
I'll walk you through the steps to
install your own Lowe's has many styles
of laminate floors to fit any home but
today we're using pergo timber craft
Plus web protect so protects against
spills and pet accidents it's waterproof
so you can even wet mop it and this one
is antique barnwood style so it's gonna
look great now before we begin we've got
to make sure we have all the necessary
tools to help you out you put a handy
reference list in the description below
also make sure to read the
manufacturer's instructions they'll
include helpful tips for installing on a
variety of subjects specific to the
flooring you're installing them as
always if you're not confident about
installing something yourself see a
Lowe's associate for help the first step
is to prep your subfloor pergo is pretty
forgiving can stand up to 3/16 of an
inch unevenness across ten feet but for
more information on leveling your
subfloor we put a link to that video in
the description below now as you can see
we have a door framed undercut to get
the height of the cut stack a piece of
underlayment and laminate next to the
doorframe and use an oscillating saw to
cut also you might have to install
underlayment some flooring comes with
pre-installed underlayment on the planks
but again refer to your manufacturer's
instructions for the product you're
using I've also put spacers around the
perimeter of the wall to provide an
expansion gap I've taped them to the
baseboards so they don't move around
during installation for this pergo floor
they recommend a 3/8 inch spacer but
check your manufacturer's instructions
to be sure meanwhile I've measured the
square footage of the room with
multiplied by length so I know how much
flooring to get then I added 10 percent
more just to count for any waste or
mistakes
next I brought the flooring in to the
installation room to let the planks
acclimate to the temperature and
humidity you want to do this at least 48
hours prior to installation so now that
we're ready to install I've chosen to
start along this wall based on the
manufacturer's instructions you want to
go from left to right along the
August straightest wall typically
exterior walls are more straight than
interior walls also to make sure you
don't end up with any tiny slivers for
the last row measure the length of the
room and divide by the width of the
plank not including the tongue or groove
so if you have a room like this that's a
hundred eighty three point seven inches
wide subtract three eighths inch from
each side then divide by the width of
the plank six point one two five and
you'll get about twenty nine point eight
seven planks take the remaining bit to
find the width of the last row that's
point eight seven and multiplied by the
width of the plank six point one two
five and you'll get a last row that is
roughly five and three eighths inches
I've inspected the planks and it looks
great so now we're ready to begin the
first thing you want to do is lay down
the first row with a tongue side facing
your starting ball the one thing I
recommend is blending planks from
various cartons to ensure a mixture of
colors and shades when you're happy with
the layout cut the tongue off the long
side of the pieces don't forget to also
cut the tongue off the short side of
your first piece as it'll need to fit in
the corner against the spacers now
before we assemble row one and put it
into place lay out a second row of
tongue side facing the wall again make
sure to offset the board's by at least
six inches to avoid H joints then cut a
plank at length is needed but save your
trim sections because you can use these
pieces to start other rows okay now that
we've got a cut you're going to want to
install the planks using this all
turning pattern going to rows at a time
all pergo floors have a click lock
system to make it easy to do yourself
just insert the tongue into the groove
along the long side then rotate down
locks into place do the same for the
next two planks join in the short end
first to close the gap in the long side
lift the outside edge of the plank just
about an inch and firmly push until the
edges meet then rotate down to lock
because this is a floating laminate
floor we're not using any adhesive nails
or staples so now we can simply slide
the first two rows into their final
position now that they're in their place
measure and cut your final end pieces
and corner pieces again accounting for
the expansion gap then use your tapping
block or pull bar to tighten repeat
these steps using the same alternating
plank technique to complete the floor
if you encounter any obstructions like
pipe or floor events use a jigsaw to cut
the flooring to fit always maintain that
expansion gap for the last row you may
have to cut the pieces to fit measure
the width needed subtracting the
expansion gap and cut lengthwise
when installing around the doorway slide
the plank at least a quarter inch under
the doorframe leaving concealed 3/8 inch
expansion gap then with your tapping
block or pull bar tap the long size
closed first
then tap the short side closed to finish
up measure and cut your final corner
plank insert the tongue into the long
side align the short side rotate down
then use your pull bar and hammer on the
long side to lock into place then tap
the short side closed next remove all
spacers and for wall the wall waterproof
protection fill all the expansion gaps
with compressible PE 3/8 inch chrome
backer rod and covering with 100%
silicone sealing coat the perimeter
including any door frames or other fixed
objects making sure the silicone
connects from the edge of the floor to
the wall but only a light coating is
needed so wipe away any excess then
install any baseboards transitions and
shoe moldings to the walls make sure not
to drive any nails into your new floor
now you have a gorgeous affordable
waterproof floor that replicates the
look and feel of real hardwood and you
did it yourself
[Music]
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