[0:00] hi welcome back to PC Builder I'm Jason
[0:02] So today we're gonna show you step by
[0:05] step how to build a PC in 2023 including
[0:08] ryzen 7000 ryzen 5000 and Intel builds
[0:12] now I know if this is your first PC in a
[0:14] while or if this is your first PC ever
[0:16] it can seem really really scary and of
[0:18] course we've all been there before so
[0:20] I'm here to tell you that not only is
[0:21] this easier than you think it's going to
[0:23] be to build a PC but most importantly
[0:25] you can do this that's right you got
[0:27] this remember if you get value out of
[0:29] the video give it a like because it
[0:30] makes a real difference to the channel
[0:32] and of course subscribe and click that
[0:34] Bell icon that way you get notified when
[0:36] we release cool content with that let's
[0:39] jump into it first off let's do a parts
[0:41] check now if you need help on what parts
[0:43] to pick check out our PC parts Explain
[0:45] series or if you need specific
[0:47] compatible Hardware we have a lot of
[0:49] build lists and guides on the channel
[0:51] like our ryzen 7601 or our Intel i5
[0:54] 13600k one where we go over all the
[0:56] parts that you need to get we'll leave
[0:58] those playlists linked down in the video
[0:59] description so for parts you should have
[1:01] your CPU a compatible motherboard
[1:03] compatible CPU Cooler compatible Ram a
[1:06] storage device preferably an m.2 nvme
[1:09] ssd1 a graphics card a PC case and a
[1:13] power supply let's do a quick tool check
[1:15] as well well the only tool that you
[1:17] absolutely need is a screwdriver and I
[1:19] do really love this flexible one for
[1:21] about 12 on Amazon so I'll leave a link
[1:23] to it down in the video description
[1:24] there are some other tools that I like
[1:26] to have available for cable management I
[1:28] really like these velcro strips a
[1:30] plastic ties are also okay but Mr bear
[1:32] always tries to eat them and the great
[1:33] thing about these velcro strips is that
[1:34] you can actually open them back up and
[1:36] run more cables or take one out later I
[1:38] also use a pair of small wire clippers
[1:40] to trim the ties but scissors are fine
[1:42] here too a little extra thermal paste is
[1:44] always good to have on hand though most
[1:46] coolers they do come with enough pace
[1:47] for up to two applications if you end up
[1:49] needing a clean thermal paste off
[1:51] components it might be nice to have a
[1:53] little bit of isopropyl alcohol on hand
[1:55] but this usually isn't necessary I also
[1:58] really like these relatively cheap
[1:59] magnetic Parts Trace to keep our screws
[2:01] and such all together and did you look
[2:03] pretty cool I don't typically use an
[2:05] anti-static bracelet but you certainly
[2:07] can if you want and if you have an
[2:08] anti-static mod mat that's great as well
[2:10] but again not necessary as we can build
[2:12] on top of the cardboard motherboard box
[2:14] just don't do anything silly like wear
[2:15] socks on top of carpet that will build
[2:17] up that static charge there is no single
[2:20] right way for how to build a PC but
[2:22] there certainly are a lot of wrong ways
[2:24] I'm going to show you what I feel is the
[2:26] most efficient and easiest way for how
[2:28] to build a PC but if you like doing
[2:30] things a little different then that's
[2:32] fine too Step Zero if your motherboard
[2:34] is going to need a bios update to post
[2:36] with your CPU and you need to use the
[2:39] BIOS flashback feature gigabyte calls
[2:41] this Q flash plus then check your
[2:43] motherboard manual on whether you can do
[2:44] that with the CPU installed or not if
[2:47] you need to do bioslashback right now
[2:49] jump to the end of the video where we go
[2:51] through it in detail and if not let's
[2:53] keep going step one take the motherboard
[2:56] out of the box and if it has a separate
[2:58] i o panel like this then take that out
[3:01] too take the motherboard out of the
[3:02] plastic wrapper and put it on top of the
[3:04] box or on your mod mat for both systems
[3:07] we're going to open the socket by using
[3:09] the lever ryzen 5000 systems or am4
[3:12] socket with the pins on the chip so this
[3:14] one's easy you just put a little side
[3:16] and downward pressure on the lever arm
[3:18] then swing it up gently ryzen 7000
[3:21] systems are am5 with depends on the
[3:23] motherboard as are modern Intel systems
[3:26] and they essentially work the same we
[3:28] again put a little downward pressure on
[3:30] the lever to unlatch it then push it
[3:32] very gently to the side and swing up we
[3:35] then lift the socket cover up careful
[3:36] not to touch the inside pins or let
[3:39] anything fall in you can remove the
[3:40] plastic socket cover now if you want or
[3:42] it'll just pop off when we suck at the
[3:44] CPU step two we take out our CPU out of
[3:47] the plastic clam shell we find a little
[3:49] triangle on the CPU and we match it up
[3:51] on the motherboard ideally we want to
[3:54] gently place the CPU directly down with
[3:56] as little side to side motion as
[3:58] possible so we don't damage anything
[4:00] hands we want to use almost no Force
[4:02] whatsoever just letting gravity do the
[4:04] work Verizon 5000 am4 systems would just
[4:07] now gently push the lever down and latch
[4:09] it for ryzen 7000 and modern Intel
[4:12] systems we close the latch cover first
[4:13] then we swing the arm down and latch it
[4:16] if you've left the plastic cover on
[4:18] it'll just pop off during this process
[4:19] hold on to that if you ever want to sell
[4:21] the motherboard separately step three is
[4:23] installing the cooler now make sure
[4:25] you're using the correct mounting
[4:26] instructions and kit provided if using
[4:29] an aftermarket cooler note that if
[4:31] you're using an all-in-one liquid cooler
[4:33] you can install the pump now but I
[4:35] generally prefer to get the mounting
[4:36] hardware installed and put the pump on
[4:38] after it's in the case so we can angle
[4:40] the tubes how we like for the ryzen Box
[4:43] cooler we just unscrew the plastic
[4:44] retention bars and remove them then the
[4:46] CPU Cooler which is already had thermal
[4:48] paste pre-applied just goes right over
[4:50] the top and into the screw holes now we
[4:53] just make sure that each screw hole is
[4:54] seated and not screwed in yet once we do
[4:57] that we apply a turn or so on each screw
[4:59] in a cross wise pattern to ensure equal
[5:01] mounting pressure and we just keep going
[5:03] until the screws don't turn anymore
[5:05] using a medium amount of torque we want
[5:07] it snug but we do not want to over
[5:09] tighten it as that can damage the CPU to
[5:12] install a mid-range cooler follow the
[5:13] instruction manual for the cooler and
[5:15] just note that many will include their
[5:17] own back plate especially for Intel
[5:19] motherboards and keep an eye out for
[5:21] compatibility with am5 where the back
[5:23] plate can't be removed see our 7600x
[5:26] build guide for more on that when we
[5:27] apply thermal paste ourselves I
[5:29] typically do it in an X with four small
[5:31] dots of paste in between like this you
[5:34] can also use the spreader or an old
[5:35] credit card and spread the paste
[5:37] yourself just remember using a little
[5:39] too much paste is fine using not enough
[5:41] is not so err on the side of just using
[5:44] slightly too much without going
[5:45] overboard we then follow a similar
[5:47] system of seeding the screws then
[5:49] tightening up in an alternating pattern
[5:51] a little bit at a time to ensure even
[5:53] mounting pressure if the fan looks like
[5:54] it might overhang the ram then we wait
[5:56] to install it until we get the Ram in
[5:58] otherwise just go ahead and install the
[5:59] fan and using the clips remember to use
[6:01] a medium amount of force in a steady
[6:03] application no sudden jerks are
[6:05] overpowering anything then we can tidy
[6:07] up the cable hide it under the fan or
[6:09] even against the vrm and connect it to
[6:11] the motherboard CPU fan slot for an
[6:13] all-in-one liquid cooler just make sure
[6:15] to follow the instructions as to where
[6:16] to plug the cables in to which headers
[6:18] on the motherboard and for a deeper dive
[6:20] including positioning and do's and
[6:22] don'ts for liquid cooling check out our
[6:23] best practice liquid cooling guide step
[6:25] 4 installing the ram now this is the
[6:28] same whether using ddr4 or ddr5 you're
[6:31] going to want to open the ram brackets
[6:32] this is almost always slots 2 and 4 if
[6:35] using a two stick kit and all of them if
[6:37] you're using a four Stick kit always
[6:39] double check your motherboard manual
[6:40] just in case note that some Ram brackets
[6:43] have two clips While others like most
[6:44] assist boards have just one then making
[6:47] sure to line up the slot in the ram
[6:48] stick with the socket we push down and
[6:51] firmly apply medium pressure again until
[6:53] we hear that click noise remember to
[6:55] apply the force in a steady motion and
[6:57] not a sudden movement or you can damage
[6:59] the mother board generally if you feel
[7:01] like you have to force something that
[7:02] means there's another issue going on
[7:04] that needs to be solved step five now we
[7:06] want to install our m.2 storage if
[7:09] you're using a pcie Gen 4 drive and you
[7:11] have an AMD b550 motherboard or you're
[7:14] using an older z590 or b560 Intel
[7:17] motherboard with 11th generation Intel
[7:19] CPU then refer to your motherboard
[7:21] manual as to Which m.2 slot to use for
[7:24] Intel 12th gen ryzen 5000 on an x570
[7:27] motherboard or ryzen 7000 it just
[7:29] doesn't matter if your motherboard has
[7:31] an m.2 heat spreader remove it by
[7:33] unlatching or unscrewing it note that
[7:35] some boards will come with an m.2
[7:36] standoff and screw already in the
[7:38] motherboard and someone will come with
[7:40] it in the box and you'll need to install
[7:41] it if your motherboard has a bottom heat
[7:43] spreader it's not that common but newer
[7:46] high-end boards are now coming with them
[7:47] just make sure to remove the plastic
[7:49] film covering on the bottom once that's
[7:51] ready take your m.2 at about a 45 degree
[7:54] angle go ahead and just push the
[7:56] connector end into the slot until you
[7:58] can't see it anymore then swing it down
[7:59] gently and latch or screw it into place
[8:02] do not remove the sticker on the drive
[8:04] as it's actually a heat sprayer itself
[8:06] if you use a motherboard heat shield
[8:07] just peel the film off the heat pad then
[8:10] place it over the drive and screw it
[8:12] into place note that some m.2 drives
[8:14] come with their own heatsink and it will
[8:16] avoid the warranty if you remove it so
[8:18] consider where you want to put them if
[8:20] using motherboards with a large cover
[8:22] for multiple m.2 drives Now we move to
[8:25] prep the case start by taking off both
[8:27] side panels This is the Choose Your Own
[8:29] Adventure part and where I do any fan
[8:31] installs or swap outs if I wanted to if
[8:34] you aren't using a hard drive then I'd
[8:35] also consider removing the hard drive
[8:37] cage if that's possible and there's a
[8:39] PSU shroud if it's a cheaper case with
[8:41] no PSU shroud then I'd leave it in to
[8:43] hide the cables if you're using an
[8:45] all-in-one liquid cooler and feel you
[8:46] can install the radiator in the case and
[8:48] still have enough room to get the
[8:50] motherboard in you can do that otherwise
[8:52] wait until the motherboard's in the
[8:53] important thing is to make sure that the
[8:55] motherboard stand-ups are screwed into
[8:57] the right place on the case most ATX
[8:59] case cases come with them pre-installed
[9:01] for a full-size ATX board so if you're
[9:03] using a Micro ATX or for some reason an
[9:05] ITX board in them follow the
[9:07] instructions to unscrew the ones that
[9:09] need to be moved this is the part where
[9:10] a small pair of pliers can come in handy
[9:12] if you do need to move the standoffs and
[9:14] you're having trouble hand screwing them
[9:16] in you can just put a screw in them and
[9:18] use a screwdriver then use the pliers to
[9:21] hold it in place while you back out the
[9:22] screw if your motherboard came with a
[9:24] separate i o Shield then go ahead and
[9:26] attach it to the case from the inside
[9:28] pushing towards the outside until it's
[9:30] fully in place just make sure to orient
[9:32] it the right way step 7 let's get the
[9:35] motherboard in that's what you're
[9:36] thinking right wrong before you do get
[9:39] your PSU out or just the four plus four
[9:41] pin EPS cable if that's modular run that
[9:44] cable through the top rear hole or
[9:46] multiple cables if your motherboard
[9:47] requires more than one EPS cable and
[9:50] then to lay the case flat now connect
[9:51] those cables to the motherboard like
[9:53] this in large cases this isn't really
[9:55] that necessary but in many cases you
[9:57] will struggle to get them connected
[9:59] afterwards if you don't now pay
[10:01] attention to whether your PC case has
[10:03] the PSU get installed through the side
[10:05] or through the back so you can route the
[10:07] cable properly step eight now that those
[10:10] EPS cables are connected let's get that
[10:12] motherboard in with a case laying flat
[10:14] lift the board gently by the cooler line
[10:16] it up with the i o shield and the holes
[10:18] some cases have a metal pin in the
[10:20] middle standoff rather than a screw and
[10:23] if so just slot it into that hole if not
[10:25] use a screw in the middle front hole and
[10:27] screw it in most but not all of the way
[10:30] now go around and screw the other screws
[10:32] in most of the way but not all the way
[10:33] until they're all in and then tighten
[10:36] them down using a medium amount of
[10:38] torque you might need to push the
[10:40] motherboard slightly one way or the
[10:41] other to line holes up and I usually
[10:43] take care of the most problematic screws
[10:45] first the ones that don't want to line
[10:47] up which are often at the back step 9
[10:49] tilt the case upright and get the PSU in
[10:52] place now some cases have an external
[10:54] bracket for this that you can then slide
[10:56] the PSU through the back in most cases
[10:58] you just shove the PSU into this side
[11:00] panel then towards the back but first
[11:02] let's unfurl the cables we need keeping
[11:04] the others tied up if it's not a modular
[11:06] PSU for modular psus figure out which
[11:08] cables you need and just get them
[11:10] plugged in now because it's a real bear
[11:12] to do it once it's installed don't
[11:14] forget the pcie cables for the graphics
[11:16] card if we're using cable extensions
[11:18] keep the cables spooled up and just
[11:19] connect the extensions we need to those
[11:21] cables remember cable extensions plug
[11:23] into the cables the PSU came with and
[11:26] those cables then plug into the PSU
[11:28] because while they're standardized on
[11:29] the motherboard side they are not
[11:31] standard on the PSU side so let's not
[11:33] blow anything up most PC cases have a
[11:35] vent for the PSU fan on the bottom so
[11:38] when installing the PSU make sure to
[11:40] face the PSU fan towards the vent
[11:42] usually at the bottom of the case slide
[11:44] it in screw it down four screws and
[11:47] we're good there's a number of different
[11:48] ways to Route the GPU pcie cables
[11:51] oftentimes you'll see them come up from
[11:53] the bottom or from the where the PSU
[11:55] shroud is I often like to go from the
[11:58] side and over the top of the GP you not
[12:00] to obscure the front of the GPU and I
[12:02] typically just make sure that the cables
[12:04] themselves don't touch the GPU when it's
[12:07] fully seated step 10 let's get things
[12:09] connected and routed there's usually
[12:11] fine main cable runs to Route three top
[12:14] to bottom on the left side in the middle
[12:16] and far right and two horizontal ones on
[12:19] the top and on the bottom if you have a
[12:21] fan or RGB Hub it's a good time to
[12:23] figure out where you want to put it
[12:24] now's a good time to Route the 24 pin
[12:26] motherboard power cable if it's a 20
[12:28] plus 4 style connector that needs to be
[12:30] pushed together make sure you're doing
[12:32] that right as there are often a plastic
[12:34] piece that somewhat holds it together
[12:36] and if done improperly it will not allow
[12:39] it to seat the same goes for other
[12:40] connectors like the pcie six plus two
[12:42] pin and the four plus four EPS
[12:44] motherboard power cable I personally
[12:46] like to Route the PSU cables first as
[12:47] they're the big beefy ones and then
[12:49] stack smaller fan and other cables on
[12:51] top of it don't invest too much time in
[12:53] Cable Management just yet as we want to
[12:55] make sure the system actually posts
[12:56] before we really tie everything down the
[12:58] PC case itself has several Romaine
[13:00] cables that we need to connect the HC
[13:02] audio cable to the bottom rear of the
[13:04] motherboard the front panel USB type A
[13:06] connectors usually to the USB 3 header
[13:09] or if there are additional USB 2.0 ports
[13:11] to one of the 2.0 headers you'll notice
[13:13] these all have one pin closed off so
[13:15] Orient them properly before pushing them
[13:17] gently but firmly into the motherboard
[13:20] if you have a front panel USB type c
[13:22] this is the time to connect it if you
[13:24] have a header on your motherboard fan
[13:25] cables should get plugged into either a
[13:27] Fan Hub or directly into the motherboard
[13:29] fan header you can use a pwm fan
[13:31] splitter cable if needed and each fan
[13:34] connection should support up to 5 fans
[13:36] argb and RGB cables can often be Daisy
[13:39] Chained and then plugged into the
[13:40] motherboard while we're at it we should
[13:42] install any two and a half inch ssds or
[13:44] hard drives which will require a SATA
[13:46] cable that most motherboards come with
[13:48] and a PSU Santa power cable that the PSU
[13:51] should come with make sure to Route the
[13:52] SATA data and power cables as well
[13:54] finally the power button and other pin
[13:56] outs go in consult your motherboard
[13:58] manual but generally the one that really
[14:00] needs to get plugged in is the case
[14:02] power button and the positive terminal
[14:04] usually goes first either on the left or
[14:06] top with a negative one placed to the
[14:08] right or below it gigabyte motherboards
[14:10] come with a plastic pin out holder thing
[14:12] that I wish every motherboard came with
[14:14] you just push the pins into the Right
[14:15] Slots then connect them all at once Step
[14:18] 11 if you've got a graphics card now is
[14:20] the time to install it at the top pcie
[14:23] slot as well as install any other add-in
[14:25] cards like Wi-Fi we just need to unscrew
[14:27] any rear panel guards usually only on
[14:29] nicer cases on the cheaper ones you're
[14:31] gonna have to bend them out then remove
[14:33] the screws and the cover for the rear
[14:34] slots typically beginning at the second
[14:36] slot and going down push down the slot
[14:39] retention button on the main pcie slot
[14:41] to open it up carefully line up the card
[14:43] from the front and press down from the
[14:45] front to back making sure the metal
[14:46] bracket at the back of the card doesn't
[14:48] get stuck on the case you should hear a
[14:50] click of the pcie retention bracket
[14:52] snapping into place
[14:55] and then be able to screw in the card in
[14:57] the back if you're having issues make
[14:59] sure the metal bracket on the back of
[15:01] the GPU isn't getting stuck on the case
[15:03] pcie slots this happens a lot it should
[15:06] want to go in with gravity plus a little
[15:08] firm but steady pressure now let's plug
[15:10] in the pcie power cables we previously
[15:12] routed for the GPU if your GPU is a
[15:15] beefier one then I would also use an
[15:17] anti-sag bracket or stand making sure
[15:20] that it does not impede any of the GPU
[15:22] fans from spinning alright let's see if
[15:24] we post connect a monitor using HDMI
[15:27] DisplayPort can be a little weird on
[15:29] first post so I always recommend HDMI
[15:31] make sure if you're using a GPU that the
[15:33] cable is plugged into the GPU not the
[15:35] motherboard plug in the power supply to
[15:37] the wall turn the PSU button on and
[15:39] press the case power button if you have
[15:41] debug lights or a postcode readout pay
[15:43] close attention to that just in case you
[15:45] have an issue give it a minute or so as
[15:47] sometimes the board will need to power
[15:48] cycle a couple of times if you don't get
[15:50] a post make sure the board doesn't need
[15:52] a bios update for boards with a bios
[15:54] flashback feature you can just let's go
[15:56] ahead and Flash it which we'll go
[15:57] through next if that doesn't work then
[15:59] check all your connections again when
[16:01] you get that post you can either proceed
[16:03] ahead to setup or just power it down and
[16:06] finish up the build to finish up the
[16:08] build tidy up the cable management oh
[16:09] tidy honestly it's up to you I mostly
[16:12] focus on what you can see from the front
[16:14] side I'm personally an advocate of
[16:16] minimal rear panel Cable Management
[16:18] because you're the only person who will
[16:20] likely ever see it and it's very likely
[16:22] this will be the last time you look at
[16:24] it but if you feel the need to hyper
[16:25] manage all the cables then go for it I
[16:27] just focus on making sure it's a clean
[16:29] looking build on the front side and
[16:31] there's nothing too loose in the back
[16:33] before we jump into the BIOS flashback
[16:34] or setup phases remember if you've
[16:36] gotten value out of the video please do
[16:38] take a moment right now and give it a
[16:39] like on the video don't forget to
[16:41] subscribe and click that Bell icon that
[16:43] way you get notified when we release
[16:44] cool content like the after you build
[16:46] setup guide that's coming soon which
[16:48] will be linked right here when it's out
[16:50] there we're going to go through the bio
[16:51] setup Windows installation drivers and
[16:54] more if you do need to flash your bios
[16:57] on your motherboard in order to have
[16:59] your CPU post it's very easy to do but
[17:02] your motherboard must have the bio slash
[17:04] back feature again gigabyte calls this Q
[17:06] flash plus your motherboard will have a
[17:08] button typically on the back I O panel
[17:10] but it can often be on the board itself
[17:12] consult your manual for where it's
[17:14] located if any of my instructions differ
[17:16] from those of the manufacturer for your
[17:18] board then do what they tell you instead
[17:20] you need a USB drive that's between 8
[17:23] and 32 gigabytes but no larger than that
[17:25] as it needs to be formatted as FAT32 and
[17:28] 32 gigabytes is the max file size for
[17:31] that hence the name using Windows on
[17:33] another computer format the drive is
[17:35] FAT32 in the file manager and you can
[17:37] name the volume whatever you want
[17:38] download the BIOS that you need from the
[17:40] manufacturer's motherboard support page
[17:42] hopefully the newest one sometimes you
[17:44] do need to update the BIOS in steps so
[17:46] just double check you can jump from your
[17:48] bios directly to the newest one extract
[17:51] the BIOS onto the USB drive then right
[17:53] click the BIOS file on the thumb drive
[17:55] in file explorer and rename it based on
[17:58] who makes the motherboard for gigabyte
[17:59] rename it as gigabyte dot bin for ASRock
[18:02] rename it as creative.rom for MSI and
[18:05] rename it as msi.rom Asus has a file
[18:08] utility to rename the BIOS file so just
[18:10] go ahead and run that from the USB drive
[18:12] now let's flash your bios on your
[18:14] motherboard make sure the USB drive is
[18:16] put into the correct port for the BIOS
[18:18] flashback and that the EPS power cables
[18:20] in the upper left hand corner of the
[18:22] motherboard are connected along with the
[18:24] 24-pin motherboard power connector on
[18:26] the right side of the motherboard make
[18:28] sure the PSU is plugged in and it's
[18:30] turned on push and hold the BIOS
[18:32] flashback button until you see an LED
[18:34] start flashing on the motherboard now
[18:36] leave the board alone until the
[18:37] motherboard light is done flashing
[18:39] typically anywhere from one minute up to
[18:41] eight minutes once it's done flashing
[18:43] wait another 20 seconds then you can
[18:45] power off your PSU and build the PC if
[18:48] you haven't done so already once built
[18:50] power on the PC using the PC case button
[18:53] if we have any trouble posting after
[18:55] updating the bios follow your
[18:56] motherboard instructions on how to clear
[18:58] the CMOS typically either pushing a
[19:00] button on the board or using a
[19:01] screwdriver to bridge two CMOS pins on
[19:04] the motherboard now your PC might reboot
[19:06] several times and continue the update of
[19:08] the bios so just leave it alone until it
[19:10] finishes and you're done don't forget to
[19:13] subscribe and click the Bell icon to get
[19:14] notified when we release cool content
[19:16] like the after you build setup guide
[19:18] coming soon which will be linked right
[19:20] here when it's out