[0:00] Today I'm going to save you thousands by
[0:02] showing you how to paint a room all by
[0:04] yourself. Look at that. That's going to
[0:06] be sexy.
[0:07] Yo, I almost fell off my ladder.
[0:10] All you need is a handful of tools, one
[0:11] or two days, and oh yeah, no taping.
[0:14] This is for anybody updating their space
[0:16] or dealing with the landlord special
[0:18] like I am. You know what I'm talking
[0:19] about. The paint over the light switches
[0:21] and the plugs and really sloppy work. So
[0:23] we've got nail pops and wall damage and
[0:26] paint all over the ceiling. So no matter
[0:28] how bad your situation, just follow my
[0:30] process and you're going to get a clean
[0:31] professional finish. Let's get started.
[0:33] And this is everything you're going to
[0:34] need. Your favorite drill and a couple
[0:36] of bits. You'll need a knife. You'll
[0:38] need a five in one. Great for opening
[0:40] cans of paint. You'll need a 4-in knife,
[0:41] preferably brand new. I'm going to
[0:43] recommend this ergonomic handy pail. And
[0:45] then my favorite paint brush, 3 and
[0:46] 1/2-in angled sash. Grab yourself some
[0:49] canvas drop cloths, 4-in mini roller,
[0:52] and a tray with a liner. And you're
[0:53] going to want a caulking gun. And for
[0:55] priming all of your drywall repair, I
[0:57] recommend Kilz oil-based stain blocker.
[0:59] You're going to want to get your Radius
[1:00] 360 sanding block and a Wooster pole.
[1:03] And for painting your walls, grab the
[1:05] Sherlock stick with the easy to connect
[1:08] Wooster cage and just a simple 1/2-in
[1:11] nap roller. Let's get to work. And what
[1:13] I like to start with is a thing that
[1:14] takes the longest to dry. And that, of
[1:17] course, is wall damage and nail pops.
[1:19] Here's an example of a nail pop that has
[1:21] a heartbeat. See that flex? That's a
[1:22] screw that went past the paper. And the
[1:25] way we fix it,
[1:27] 1-in
[1:28] blow.
[1:32] We're going to use Drydex. Now the
[1:33] secret to this product is two things.
[1:35] For a painter, it's great because it
[1:36] goes white when it's dry. But it does
[1:38] shrink a little bit while it's drying.
[1:39] So you don't want to put it on too tight
[1:41] because after that dries, you'll have
[1:43] one, two, three dents in the wall. So
[1:45] put it on liberally like that. When we
[1:47] sand it back, we can sand it smooth. So
[1:49] we can do all of the patching and then
[1:51] we can get all the rest of the prep work
[1:52] done while this is drying. And that
[1:54] helps save give a lot of time. These
[1:56] yellow things, they're a drywall plug.
[1:58] You take your 5-in-1, hit the edge,
[2:01] just shear it right off.
[2:03] >> [snorts]
[2:03] >> Then you can take the other end of your
[2:04] tool,
[2:06] and just create a bit of a ball, and
[2:07] push that into the wall.
[2:09] Now, you're not making contact, but the
[2:11] hole is filled with the plug, and it
[2:13] greatly reduces the amount of drying
[2:15] time, and almost eliminates the
[2:17] shrinkage in the hole. Anything that can
[2:19] be removed should be removed. I have
[2:22] seen lots of people in my career
[2:24] remove the doors and leave the track.
[2:27] What ends up happening is
[2:29] is you get all this wall damage that
[2:30] never gets painted properly, or you get
[2:32] somebody getting paint all over your
[2:34] track. Going to fix the ugly.
[2:37] Now, let's go take care of the cold air
[2:38] return grill. Cuz it's been painted in a
[2:40] few times, what I'm trying to do is just
[2:43] cut the paint that's bonded together
[2:44] with the metal. Here we go.
[2:47] So, instead of trying to clean this up,
[2:48] I'm just going to buy a replacement.
[2:51] That was the original paint color. I'm
[2:52] not going through all the trouble of all
[2:55] this work
[2:56] just at the very end to go put a
[2:57] finished grill back on and have a little
[3:00] line showing. Now that I've got all my
[3:02] wall patches drying, I can prime and
[3:05] prep all of my ceiling areas. This is a
[3:07] um
[3:08] primer sealer. It helps to cover up all
[3:10] these ugly mistakes
[3:12] really conveniently in just one coat. If
[3:14] somebody's got a really dark color
[3:16] paint,
[3:17] you might need to do two passes around
[3:18] the room. So, we're going to take our
[3:19] quarter of ceiling paint, and we're
[3:21] going to put some of it in the handy
[3:23] pail with a liner, cuz we're going to be
[3:25] brushing some and rolling some.
[3:28] We're
[3:29] pushing the brush into the paint. It's
[3:31] about 1-in thick, and we're painting
[3:33] from inside the brush. There's not a
[3:35] bunch of slop on the outside, okay? That
[3:37] is the technique, which is why you don't
[3:39] need tape.
[3:40] Now, on the ceiling, actually spray the
[3:43] ceiling, and then scrape this, and then
[3:45] give it a light sand and paint it. And
[3:47] there's actually a line here where it
[3:49] separates one to the next. And all I'm
[3:51] going to do is run that brush right
[3:53] across that line.
[3:55] Now, this is incredibly forgiving, okay?
[3:58] So, if you have
[4:01] very little experience, doing the edge
[4:03] up against the stipple is a great way to
[4:05] start. You'll notice it's a firm brush.
[4:08] I don't have to get a whole lot of this
[4:09] going on, okay?
[4:11] Just got to stand it and put a bit of a
[4:13] bend.
[4:15] Gives you a lot of control. Less is more
[4:17] here. We're just trying to make sure we
[4:20] don't have two colors of paint on the
[4:21] smooth edge so that it's obvious.
[4:23] We're going to prep the roller here.
[4:24] It's microfiber. The last thing we want
[4:26] here is have so much paint in the roller
[4:28] that when we go to touch the ceiling
[4:30] there's a big blob of paint there. So,
[4:31] you really use a little bit of pressure.
[4:34] Make sure the paint's inside the roller.
[4:37] And then that is absolutely perfect. No
[4:39] dripping. And then all we're going to do
[4:41] is nice and gentle like
[4:44] so we don't get drips.
[4:46] Okay? You're going to need to
[4:48] do a little bit of practice know how
[4:49] much pressure to use.
[4:51] Get right into that corner.
[4:53] And that's it.
[4:54] Now, that's painted.
[4:56] And now we have a perfect ceiling line
[4:59] to paint up against.
[5:01] And between the kills and the roller,
[5:04] this is going to be great coverage and
[5:06] that other color is going to be gone
[5:07] forever. So, 4-in mini roller.
[5:10] Anytime you've got a
[5:12] smooth edge ceiling, works perfectly. I
[5:14] know that everybody has the same stuff
[5:16] everywhere. If you have
[5:18] uh
[5:19] just just flat
[5:21] or if you have
[5:23] uh like a knockdown texture or an orange
[5:25] peel
[5:26] or full stipple,
[5:27] the only other solution that you have is
[5:29] to paint the entire ceiling.
[5:31] But because this is a smooth edge, we
[5:32] get to completely cheat. I don't want to
[5:34] add any more paint to the ceiling. I
[5:36] don't want to have to
[5:38] paint the entire ceiling just to clean
[5:40] up a little bit of an edge. So, because
[5:41] in this situation I get to do this, I
[5:44] save a ton of time. Now, you might be
[5:45] able to get away with not using a brush
[5:47] at all to cut that line,
[5:49] but what a great opportunity to practice
[5:52] and work on your brush a little bit. One
[5:53] of the reasons I tell people they don't
[5:55] need tape cuz the paint will peel off of
[5:57] the wall or the ceiling
[5:59] if it hasn't finished the curing
[6:01] process, which takes about a month. Now,
[6:03] it's time to teach you how to use a
[6:04] paintbrush like a pro. We're not working
[6:06] out of the can, we're working from our
[6:07] little container here. We're looking for
[6:10] just about an inch, inch and a half of
[6:12] paint. When you have a new brush, you
[6:13] have to learn how it reacts. There's a
[6:15] lot of different bristles, different
[6:17] strengths. So, we're going to fill it up
[6:19] and then we're going to clean it off.
[6:20] We're going to start with it
[6:22] almost empty and that's the best way to
[6:24] practice.
[6:25] And the way we do it is like when you're
[6:27] learning how to paint with a painting
[6:28] crew for the first time,
[6:30] they shove you in the closet and if they
[6:32] have to, they can do touch-up work. And
[6:34] if you're sloppy and you put on too much
[6:36] paint, it's okay because there's no
[6:38] direct light in a closet in almost every
[6:40] situation.
[6:41] So, it's the safest place to learn how
[6:43] to do this. You can practice your skill
[6:45] set so that you've got the ability to do
[6:47] really nice lines around your ceiling
[6:49] later in the afternoon. This is an
[6:51] angled sash. This is the heel, that's
[6:54] the tip. I'm right-handed, so I'll start
[6:55] on the right-hand side, but I'm going to
[6:57] paint the left side and we're going to
[6:58] pretend that's the ceiling and that's is
[7:00] the wall. So, you put the heel and then
[7:03] you push the tip
[7:04] into the corner and then you
[7:07] going to pull
[7:09] setting that brush right in that crease.
[7:12] And if you find yourself with too much
[7:13] paint, stop and pull off and come again.
[7:17] All right, and practice doing a cut
[7:19] line.
[7:20] If that was a ceiling and that's a wall,
[7:22] that's actually a pretty nice job.
[7:24] Yay for me, I still remember how to
[7:25] paint. It's been a while.
[7:27] >> [laughter]
[7:27] >> And we want to have a good 3 to 4-in
[7:30] line.
[7:31] Now, you're not relying on your own
[7:32] ability to draw that line with the
[7:34] brush. What you're really doing is
[7:36] taking a brush that doesn't have paint
[7:37] on the outside,
[7:38] setting that bristle into that corner
[7:41] and then just letting the bristle
[7:43] sit in that corner and you move forward
[7:44] with pressure. That's all it is.
[7:47] We're going to practice different
[7:48] corners, different cut lines.
[7:51] Always brush through your corners.
[7:53] All right? You want to keep things nice
[7:55] and dry.
[7:56] It's okay to see the wall behind coming
[7:58] through. That's why we use two coats.
[8:00] Now, left side. Heel and then tip.
[8:04] That works really good when there's not
[8:06] a lot of paint in the brush. There's too
[8:07] much paint, you're going to get it
[8:08] slopping around everywhere.
[8:10] There we go. Get it in that crease and
[8:12] then just run it.
[8:14] You get the paint out first, this is
[8:16] another technique. You can come back a
[8:17] little drier
[8:18] and then you're just pushing the extra
[8:20] paint up into that crease.
[8:23] That's another great way to get it done.
[8:25] So, when you push the tip, you lift the
[8:26] heel
[8:27] and it gives you more of a triangle,
[8:29] more of a sharp tip. Upside down,
[8:31] heel, triangle in the corner.
[8:34] We're in a closet, so we're going to
[8:35] treat the baseboard like it's a ceiling
[8:37] line now. When you're painting with a
[8:38] dark color,
[8:39] it's a lot easier to come back and do
[8:41] that one coat of baseboard at the very
[8:43] end
[8:44] if you haven't painted all over your
[8:45] trim. This isn't speed, so I'm going to
[8:47] be a little bit more careful here. If
[8:49] anything doesn't have enough paint or it
[8:52] needs a little bit of rework or
[8:53] doctoring up, save it for the second
[8:55] coat. As a matter of fact, when you're
[8:57] painting your ceiling line for the first
[8:59] time, especially with a dark color, I
[9:01] recommend that you leave a little bit of
[9:03] a gap on purpose. I'm going to go about
[9:06] an eighth to a 16th below that line
[9:09] on purpose.
[9:11] And then on the second coat I would come
[9:12] back.
[9:13] Push right into that corner.
[9:16] And then finish drawing that line right
[9:18] in that crease.
[9:20] That's a great technique, especially if
[9:22] you're new to this.
[9:24] Give yourself a little mercy at 8 ft in
[9:26] the air.
[9:27] All right?
[9:28] You aren't going to be able to tell if
[9:30] that
[9:30] 16th or 32nd of an inch is one coat or
[9:33] two coats.
[9:34] Just saying.
[9:35] Because we're dealing with acrylic
[9:36] paint, you can see the paint is starting
[9:38] to work its way all the way up the
[9:39] bristles. Every time I I put a pressure
[9:41] on that brush and I push,
[9:43] the paint goes in two directions, up
[9:45] into the bristles and then out to the
[9:46] wall. Okay? So, you've only got about an
[9:49] hour while you're working before you
[9:51] have to stop and go wash your brush and
[9:53] start over again.
[9:54] So, we're going to finish off this
[9:55] closet and then go take care of the
[9:56] brush.
[9:57] Once that acrylic hardens up, ladies,
[9:59] it's like having your nails done. Now,
[10:01] we have texture
[10:03] that hasn't been cleaned right and this
[10:05] is how we do it.
[10:07] We're not just drawing a line cuz that's
[10:09] what happens.
[10:10] You got a really nasty look, okay? So,
[10:15] instead [snorts] of drawing a line,
[10:17] I want you to do something like this.
[10:19] You're going to pull and push. Pull and
[10:21] push.
[10:23] Like this into that ceiling. That's a
[10:25] little bit more dramatic than I want you
[10:26] to do, but you get the idea.
[10:28] So, it's just a constant
[10:30] jiggle wiggle. And what happens is
[10:32] you'll paint the back side of every one
[10:33] of those bumps
[10:34] as well as the front side.
[10:37] And over the course of that whole
[10:38] ceiling line,
[10:40] it'll look a lot more consistent. Now,
[10:42] it looks like the texture's coming into
[10:43] the wall instead of the other way
[10:44] around.
[10:47] As a homeowner,
[10:49] you will pay somewhere between
[10:52] $500 and $1,000 for good quality paint
[10:54] job
[10:56] in a big room in your house if it's
[10:57] involving
[10:58] repairs and ceilings and things like
[11:00] that.
[11:02] Now, the paint only costs you about 150
[11:04] bucks.
[11:06] The rest of that is labor.
[11:08] Or, you can just buy the paint
[11:11] and save almost a thousand dollars a
[11:12] room. How about you decide?
[11:14] But, that's pretty darn simple, ain't
[11:16] it?
[11:17] First of all, we're going to wash
[11:18] everything going in and away from your
[11:19] bone, okay? Hot, but not too hot. And
[11:22] not cold. Cold water makes your acrylic
[11:24] clump up right away. And we're just
[11:25] going to work the surface with your
[11:27] thumb. Try to get as much of that paint
[11:29] out as you can. Pull Pull bristles
[11:30] apart. Get some water into the middle.
[11:32] So, it's already looking pretty clean,
[11:34] but like that's really dirty water
[11:36] coming out. Okay? What we're going to do
[11:38] now is we're going to just take some
[11:39] regular dish soap, and we're just going
[11:40] to suds it up and foam it up and try to
[11:43] keep all that soap stuck inside the
[11:44] bristles. And then we're going to do the
[11:46] same thing with the soap. We're going to
[11:47] just massage this all out. Always
[11:49] running the water away from the bone so
[11:51] that we don't push any of this up into
[11:52] it. Now, we're going to use force, and
[11:54] we're going to go the exact opposite
[11:56] direction, like as if we're loading the
[11:57] brush with paint. Turn up the water just
[11:59] a bit,
[12:00] and we're going to pound it in there.
[12:02] All right?
[12:03] We want to force that water right up to
[12:05] the top, right inside that bone. Now
[12:06] that we've cleaned it out the best we
[12:07] can, and we're forcing whatever's
[12:09] [music] left stuck inside there out.
[12:11] When you push it on the side really
[12:13] tight,
[12:14] there should be no dirt coming into that
[12:15] water. Look at that. That's drinkable,
[12:17] ladies and gentlemen. Now, we're just
[12:19] going to squeeze it, wring it out.
[12:21] Now, we're going to just put it between
[12:22] our hands, and we're going to spin
[12:23] cycle.
[12:28] Like a dog coming in out of the rain, we
[12:30] have a perfectly brand new brush again.
[12:32] And it's ready to paint. You don't have
[12:33] to let it dry or anything, either. That
[12:35] is good to go right there. Now that you
[12:37] know how to use a brush, let's go
[12:38] through the steps in how to paint your
[12:39] room in proper order so that you can be
[12:41] absolutely efficient and get the rest of
[12:43] this work done in just a few hours. Step
[12:45] one, caulking. If you have any gaps
[12:48] where your trim meets the wall or where
[12:50] a wall meets a wall. Remember, we're in
[12:52] a four-season climate. We get massive
[12:54] expansion and contraction in the
[12:55] corners. And the solution is to use a
[12:58] 60-year caulking, not the cheap
[13:00] painter's caulking, okay? Because it
[13:03] cracks. There's no sense just putting a
[13:05] little bead. We're not looking for a
[13:07] sharp corner here because it'll happen
[13:09] again next year. So, what I'm doing is
[13:11] I'm putting enough of this product on
[13:12] here that it should protect that crack
[13:16] from realizing itself again next year.
[13:18] One other thing to consider when you're
[13:20] doing caulking,
[13:21] take a look at your baseboards. A lot of
[13:23] builders will do this. They'll come
[13:24] along, they'll do sloppy carpentry, and
[13:27] they're relying on the complexity of
[13:28] this profile to make it really easy to
[13:31] cover their mistakes for not having a
[13:33] nice tight fit. Now, this caulking is
[13:35] not a quick try. It takes about an hour,
[13:37] which is why we want to get it done now.
[13:39] So, everything else that we do for the
[13:40] next few steps allows this to dry fully
[13:43] before the roller finds that wall. I'm
[13:46] going to use the 3M sanding sponge now.
[13:48] It's an angled sponge, so it's great for
[13:50] details in the corner and they've
[13:52] included this cute little design on the
[13:54] back for dust control. So, the idea is
[13:55] is as you sand, the dust isn't being
[13:57] thrown up in your face. It can actually
[13:59] fall to the ground. You should not feel
[14:01] any
[14:02] change in depth. If you do, it's a bump.
[14:04] It'll show up with a dark paint. This is
[14:06] not like sanding fresh drywall mud. What
[14:09] we're doing when we're sanding drywall
[14:10] mud is we've applied thin layers of mud
[14:13] and we're just feathering the mud into
[14:15] the paper.
[14:16] This is all about
[14:19] can you feel any ridges?
[14:22] Adding an acrylic paint
[14:24] is going to multiply it visually by
[14:27] about 20 times. Once we've got all of
[14:29] our patches sanded, we're pulling out
[14:31] our kills. Keep a distance or it'll blob
[14:34] up on you. This product takes about 10
[14:36] or 15 minutes to dry. There's enough
[14:37] process left that it'll guaranteed be
[14:39] dry by the time you get over with the
[14:41] roller. Next step, we're going to hit
[14:42] all of the casings. I'm talking about
[14:44] this abomination. That's just
[14:46] ridiculous. Make sure that it's clean.
[14:48] This is my trim paint. Looks pretty
[14:50] white, but doesn't look as white as the
[14:52] original trim. I'm going to put the heel
[14:54] of the brush on the wall and paint the
[14:56] wall and the trim at the same time. This
[14:57] will help us when we come back to get a
[14:59] really nice line. And my goal here is to
[15:01] try to paint the side of this trim and
[15:04] not have to paint the face. I'm going to
[15:06] do the same thing, hit all the windows.
[15:07] Let's say somebody did a decent job
[15:09] painting the edge.
[15:12] You hitting it again is always a good
[15:14] thing. This edge isn't all that
[15:16] terrible. So, that's really clean. Now,
[15:18] watch.
[15:19] I'm going to pretend I'm painting the
[15:20] next color. I'll try to do a perfect cut
[15:22] in for the window and then we'll see if
[15:24] any green is still showing. Now, every
[15:27] one of those little green spots is going
[15:28] to show up when you're done your paint
[15:29] job. So, better to have a preemptive
[15:32] strike, come back with the brush,
[15:34] paint it all in,
[15:36] and then not have to worry about it. Now
[15:38] you know you got a clean edge. We have
[15:39] the same thing with the trim here and
[15:41] the trim here. What I'm going to do is
[15:43] I'm just going to overfill this whole
[15:45] area to make sure that all that cutting
[15:48] work is going to have a fresh start.
[15:50] Last step of preparation
[15:52] is the sanding. And we're using a 220
[15:54] sand grits. Two things we're doing here.
[15:56] We are sanding off any dirt that got
[15:59] trapped in the last paint job and we're
[16:01] collecting all of the cobwebs that have
[16:03] collected on your wall. Now this is not
[16:05] something that you
[16:06] need to do with a huge amount of
[16:08] precision and we're just looking to
[16:10] cover one pass over the whole surface so
[16:14] that our finished look
[16:16] is dynamic. Now we're coming into the
[16:18] corner
[16:19] where we have fresh caulking. It's still
[16:21] dense,
[16:22] which means it's dry on the surface, but
[16:24] we can't afford any impact with the
[16:25] sanding block.
[16:27] So we're going to leave a couple of
[16:28] inches there.
[16:29] Now we've made it all the way back to
[16:30] the closet.
[16:32] Here we are, [snorts] guys. Day two.
[16:33] That means this paint
[16:35] was shaken yesterday. We need to give it
[16:38] a quick stir top to bottom. All right.
[16:41] First thing I'm going to do is I'm going
[16:43] to finish off in the closet all the
[16:44] details that we didn't get to yesterday.
[16:46] Did the patch with the Kilz and this
[16:49] triangle board here is actually MDF and
[16:52] it was painted as well. At this point
[16:54] you've practiced enough that you should
[16:56] be a little comfortable with the brush.
[16:58] You also want to have the brush seasoned
[16:59] with paint, but not too much paint. You
[17:01] should see lots of bristles. So we're
[17:03] going to hit around the plugs. Never
[17:05] rely on your roller to do this. Cutting
[17:07] in is giving you room to roll up to
[17:10] something that's already painted so you
[17:12] can avoid getting too close and getting
[17:14] your paint on your actual plugs and
[17:15] switches. Once you're comfortable,
[17:16] proper way to paint is to run right down
[17:19] both.
[17:20] Just do a few feet.
[17:22] And then just brush it out about 1 and
[17:24] 1/2 to 2 in. If we get paint on the
[17:27] trim, then we're definitely going to
[17:29] have to do two coats. Whoops.
[17:32] Now we'll have an example
[17:34] later on in the video of how much work
[17:37] it takes to actually get that covered.
[17:38] It's time to tackle the ceiling.
[17:41] >> [laughter]
[17:42] [gasps]
[17:42] >> So, let's get that done. I don't want
[17:44] you to be nervous at this point.
[17:46] Remember, heal the tip. We're going to
[17:47] come short of that ceiling on purpose.
[17:50] Get the paint out of the brush, and now
[17:52] we can come back,
[17:54] paint down a little bit, and that should
[17:56] be about 4 in, okay? Now, when your
[17:58] roller comes up, your roller is going to
[18:00] roll into this about this close,
[18:03] and then roll away. That way, your
[18:05] roller is never getting anywhere near
[18:07] the ceiling. You do not want to ever
[18:09] make contact with the ceiling cuz that
[18:10] puts you back to step one. All right, so
[18:12] if you're feeling brave and you want to
[18:13] tackle this, let's do this together.
[18:15] Heal on the wall below the ceiling, and
[18:17] work your way up to it as you're pulling
[18:19] along.
[18:20] As soon as your bristle hits that
[18:21] corner,
[18:23] just run your brush along
[18:27] sitting in that corner and that edge.
[18:30] It's all there is to it.
[18:32] I mean, after you get good at this,
[18:33] you'll never use tape again. If I was to
[18:35] try and tape
[18:37] the ceiling
[18:38] right now, you're taping over fresh
[18:40] paint and primer,
[18:42] and it's going to peel.
[18:45] And then you're going to be back to
[18:45] repairing the ceiling,
[18:48] spackling, letting it dry, sanding it
[18:50] off, priming it, painting it again.
[18:53] Right? You can't afford that. It's just
[18:55] no. That's just a no scenario.
[18:58] This is a great line. You're going to be
[19:00] really happy with that. We're standing
[19:01] up here 6 in away, and the camera
[19:04] saying "Hey
[19:05] Jeff still knows how to paint." And you
[19:07] can, too. We're going to cut the entire
[19:09] room before we pull out the roller
[19:11] because depending on the speed that you
[19:12] paint, if you have the cut dish and the
[19:16] rolling tray at the same time filled
[19:17] with paint, it starts to dry immediately
[19:19] after you pour it out. The entire room
[19:21] cut and roll
[19:23] probably will you take about 2 hours,
[19:24] guys. Okay, just to factor that in.
[19:27] If you're working by yourself, and if
[19:29] you are working with a helper, you can
[19:30] cut that time in half. My paint line is
[19:32] just about at the brass. It's a perfect
[19:34] time to wash. This is my fifth time
[19:37] washing this brush on this project.
[19:39] >> [laughter]
[19:40] >> The reason I need this to be clean is
[19:41] because of this. I have a cut line here
[19:44] and a cut line here, and you need your
[19:46] brush to be the same size as the place
[19:49] you're cutting. This brush is huge
[19:51] relative to this situation, and there's
[19:52] no way for me to maintain control and
[19:54] cut both lines at the same time unless I
[19:56] do this.
[19:57] Make [sighs] my 3-in brush a 1-in brush.
[20:01] Hold it like a gun. We'll load it,
[20:04] and I can cut one side,
[20:06] and I can cut the other side. You don't
[20:09] need to go out and buy an artist brush
[20:10] set
[20:11] if you use this technique. Remember,
[20:13] this isn't about speed, it's about
[20:15] precision. And if I take 10 minutes on
[20:17] this little area and make it absolutely
[20:19] perfect, then that's okay with me.
[20:22] Would this go faster with a smaller
[20:23] brush? Yeah. Do you always have that
[20:25] brush on you?
[20:27] We're at that point in the project we're
[20:28] going to roll. My tray has liners, and
[20:30] it has this tray arm. It's not available
[20:32] everywhere,
[20:33] so I'll throw a link in the video
[20:34] description, and if you can
[20:36] get it, you can get it. If you can't,
[20:38] we'll have to see what we can do about
[20:39] that another time.
[20:40] Uh this is my Sherlock Wooster stick,
[20:43] and I'm using the Wooster handle. The
[20:46] handle has the threading inside for the
[20:48] standard thread size for any extension
[20:50] pole, but it also has this pin lock on
[20:53] it. And the pin lock works like this.
[20:56] So, it can't come off, and it can't
[20:58] twist.
[20:59] Traditional extension poles are just
[21:01] threaded.
[21:03] As you're rolling, you change your
[21:05] direction, this starts to unravel.
[21:08] And then, as you're rolling, it's all
[21:11] over the wall like this, okay? Right out
[21:12] of control. And you're banging into
[21:14] things, it's a complete mess. With this
[21:16] system, everything is locked.
[21:17] I can run my roller within a eighth of
[21:19] an inch up and down that wall. Perfect
[21:21] control. Never scratching the paint on
[21:24] the surface next to it. It also allows
[21:26] you to extend and collapse, depending on
[21:28] the space you're working in.
[21:29] Okay?
[21:30] And allows you to keep your hands below
[21:31] your heart while you're painting.
[21:33] Okay, this is exhausting. And you'll put
[21:36] way too much paint on the wall. You get
[21:37] yourself back off the wall, keep your
[21:39] hands low,
[21:41] and you can paint with ease from top to
[21:43] bottom.
[21:44] I'm going to pour the contents over the
[21:46] edge, but not right to the roller. I
[21:48] don't want to put all of the paint in
[21:49] there, because I don't want to let that
[21:50] sit there and skim over.
[21:52] I'll leave my brush in the paint. Now,
[21:54] it is time to roll the wall. And the way
[21:56] we do that is we roll into the paint, we
[21:58] lift it up.
[21:59] We do not sink it to the bottom. We
[22:01] don't want to fill all this up with
[22:02] paint okay?
[22:04] Nice and easy.
[22:06] Just make contact, lift it back.
[22:09] Roll this in 15 or 20 times. Push the
[22:11] paint right to the middle of the roller.
[22:13] This is what we call priming the roller.
[22:16] I'm using a 13-mil roller sleeve. It's
[22:18] only half an inch, and it's for smooth
[22:20] to semi-smooth surfaces. So, make sure
[22:22] you buy the right roller for the right
[22:23] kind of surface. Smooth is for doors,
[22:25] semi-smooth is for walls. All right?
[22:27] When you roll, you always pick one
[22:29] direction. Rollers leave texture on the
[22:32] wall. No different than getting a grass
[22:34] cut at a professional golf course, or
[22:36] vacuuming a high-pile carpet. As you
[22:38] roll,
[22:39] the bristles are pulling off the paint.
[22:42] And when you go the other direction,
[22:43] they're pulling off paint in a different
[22:44] direction.
[22:45] Okay? And so, you get a different
[22:47] reflection. And you'll actually
[22:49] mess up the look on your wall
[22:52] if you go in more than one direction.
[22:53] And we're really trying to dry the
[22:55] surface of that roller out.
[22:58] Get right into the corner.
[23:00] But, we're not trying to push it so hard
[23:02] that we're like squeezing the paint out,
[23:04] okay?
[23:05] You can see we're just kind of painting
[23:07] and letting gravity do its thing. We're
[23:09] going back to the beginning at our
[23:10] driest point, picking up the extra paint
[23:13] that was put on from the very beginning,
[23:15] okay?
[23:16] That's it, nice and simple. Now that
[23:17] it's seasoned, we'll call it, it moves a
[23:19] lot faster. Don't start your the fresh
[23:21] roller in a top corner,
[23:23] okay? Start in the middle of the wall,
[23:25] roll it down, roll back up to the
[23:27] starting position. There's a texture
[23:28] here, looks like a fast running river.
[23:30] There's a lot of paint on that wall, and
[23:32] we're going to pick that up in a minute,
[23:33] but we're going to back into the old
[23:35] line.
[23:37] We're going to come forward now. We've
[23:39] dried off a little bit.
[23:41] Now we're picking up a little bit more.
[23:42] We're going to spread that out.
[23:45] We're going to come back through that
[23:46] and pick it up again.
[23:49] See how this works?
[23:51] We lay it down thick, we dry out the
[23:53] roller, we come back through the heavy
[23:54] paint, we pick up more paint.
[23:58] And to get into that corner, we simply
[23:59] spin it around
[24:01] and get that roller within that 1/4 in
[24:03] line. That's a nice healthy line, 1/4 in
[24:05] to 1/2 in. Now,
[24:07] when I get up here,
[24:10] cuz it's a different surface, I could
[24:11] cheat, I could go left or right, but I
[24:13] don't need to. I just go like this,
[24:15] get all that extra paint off, and then
[24:17] I'm just going to go back through. And
[24:19] as I'm leaving, rolling paint off,
[24:22] I'm picking it up from that wet line
[24:25] at about the same rate.
[24:27] Makes this very consistent. And you can
[24:29] get to a place where you can feel the
[24:31] pulling away. It's almost like a
[24:33] texture, like a magnet.
[24:36] And you can tell when your roller is wet
[24:38] and when it's dry.
[24:40] Always have from this rod facing the
[24:41] direction that you're painting,
[24:43] so that you're pushing the paint here
[24:45] and you're picking it up here.
[24:47] Gets rid of all the lines on the wall.
[24:48] The same reason we're starting in the
[24:50] closet for the roll as with the brush,
[24:52] this is a great place to practice, to
[24:55] get used to the paint that you've
[24:56] bought,
[24:57] how it reacts with the roller, how it
[24:59] reacts with the wall surface,
[25:01] so that when you get out into the main
[25:02] part of the room, you've got a feel
[25:05] for the relationship between the paint,
[25:08] the roller, your pressure, all these
[25:10] things. Our goal now is to finish off
[25:12] the rest of this room. Okay, guys, it's
[25:14] second coat time and we are going to go
[25:17] open a brand new can of paint today. We
[25:19] do not want to run the risk of starting
[25:21] some of the work with the brush with the
[25:23] old paint that had that separation
[25:25] issue.
[25:26] So, this one's freshly shook. We're
[25:28] going to go ahead now and
[25:31] do that 4-in mini roller work. We got
[25:33] two spots to do little touch-ups. This
[25:35] is a little bit sloppier.
[25:37] So, when you get over to the area where
[25:39] you want to roll, you're going to be
[25:41] sliding paint on the wall.
[25:43] So, you just want to get it applied
[25:45] and if it's too greasy and it's just
[25:47] sliding around instead of rolling, ease
[25:49] off on the pressure and that should
[25:50] generally work. If it doesn't,
[25:54] because it's not seasoned, just roll
[25:55] more of the wall out and get that roller
[25:57] a little drier, okay? Mini rollers can
[25:59] be a little bit frustrating if you have
[26:01] too much paint on them. We're doing this
[26:03] first coat just before we get started
[26:06] on the rest of this area with the second
[26:08] coat, knowing that this is going to dry
[26:10] in about 25 to 30 minutes, so it's not
[26:13] going to slow me down at all and in that
[26:15] way
[26:16] my mini roller has the same paint for
[26:19] the second coat as the rest of the room
[26:21] to avoid any
[26:23] flashing or glassy areas.
[26:25] When you're painting your finish coat,
[26:27] there's a rule to get what we call the
[26:29] wet edge.
[26:31] Let me just show you. We have a
[26:32] difference in in glare here and that's
[26:34] because brushing and rolling leaves
[26:36] different amounts of paint on the wall.
[26:37] Brushing it generally leaves more.
[26:39] But what we want to make sure is that we
[26:41] don't have
[26:42] brush lines and then roller lines that
[26:45] dry as such. We want the texture to be
[26:48] the same.
[26:49] So, what we want to do is we want to
[26:50] sand it all
[26:52] just to make sure we don't have any dirt
[26:54] or grit on the wall,
[26:56] but we want to then paint the entire
[26:58] surface
[27:00] cut and roll before
[27:02] the cut work dries on the second coat.
[27:05] Now, this is relatively fresh paint, so
[27:07] you're going to see it leaves a bit of a
[27:08] scuff and that's normal. Don't be worked
[27:11] up over that. It's okay to use a little
[27:13] bit of pressure and you'll see that
[27:14] little white dot there.
[27:15] That was a chunk of dirt that was stuck
[27:17] in the paint.
[27:19] I'm going to prep few surfaces
[27:22] and then I'm going to leave my sanding
[27:24] pole right there. And that's going to
[27:26] mark what's done and what isn't. Now, my
[27:28] goal here is to cut and roll each
[27:30] surface one at a time so that the brush
[27:33] marks don't dry before the roller marks
[27:35] hit it because if the brush mark is dry
[27:37] and the roller comes up to it
[27:39] then this stays looking like a brush.
[27:41] But if it's wet and I roll into it, then
[27:43] they melt together, okay? I'm also
[27:46] starting with a brand new roller today.
[27:48] I don't want yesterday's paint mixing in
[27:50] with today's paint.
[27:52] I know that might sound a little
[27:53] paranoid, but you got to buy the two
[27:55] gallons anyway, so any little anomaly
[27:58] can really affect something when you
[28:00] have acrylic in your paint even with low
[28:02] sheen. This is an old brush and I use
[28:05] this to clean my baseboards. We don't
[28:06] want to pick up the dust and then set it
[28:09] right back down
[28:10] into the wall again. This is second
[28:13] coat. Uh we still don't need everything
[28:15] perfect in the inside corners. We have
[28:17] artist brushes. We can come back and do
[28:19] little touch-ups later on. It's not
[28:20] going to affect the overall quality of
[28:22] the finish if you cut short of the
[28:24] ceiling. This is your chance to fix any
[28:27] of those mistakes. The second coat, we
[28:29] are not doing both sides of the corner.
[28:30] We're just focusing on one corner and
[28:32] because I've got 15 minutes, I'm
[28:34] comfortable doing this wall as well. If
[28:36] you're happy with the cut line
[28:38] don't try to duplicate it. In the same
[28:40] way, if you go short on the first one,
[28:42] you want to finish the cut on the
[28:43] second.
[28:44] If your first cut is nice
[28:46] come [snorts] up to a 16th of an inch of
[28:48] that line.
[28:49] You don't need a second coat of paint
[28:50] right at the cut line. I'm seizing this
[28:52] roller.
[28:54] And again, we're going to go use the
[28:56] power of this rig that cuz it doesn't
[28:58] twist.
[28:59] Get right nice and close to that corner.
[29:02] And we're going to roll that brush line
[29:03] into texture of the roller.
[29:07] Second coat, we're going to get closer
[29:08] to the top and closer to the bottom.
[29:10] Just don't touch that ceiling. Take your
[29:13] time. And one other thing we're going to
[29:15] do we haven't shown you yet
[29:18] is we're going to texture the wall by
[29:20] finishing rolling down
[29:22] on the whole surface.
[29:24] So instead of back rolling, which is
[29:26] just
[29:27] the process of rolling back and forth on
[29:29] the wall,
[29:30] we're going to directional roll, okay?
[29:32] And this will eliminate
[29:34] that just vacuumed the carpet look,
[29:36] okay? Usually the second coat
[29:39] uses about 80% as much paint as the
[29:41] first coat. We're just trying to make
[29:42] sure we're getting enough color and
[29:44] content and solids on the wall to finish
[29:47] the job.
[29:48] Now, if you're not as concerned about
[29:51] getting rid of those lines from the
[29:53] brush, you don't need to get up near the
[29:55] ceiling okay?
[29:56] But if you're like me,
[29:58] you're going to have a little OCD about
[29:59] these things. You're going to come back
[30:01] and look at it afterwards and go, "Ah, I
[30:02] really wish
[30:04] I just would have textured properly.
[30:07] I would have rolled up into my brush
[30:08] lines cuz you can tell.
[30:10] Especially with dark colors, guys.
[30:13] Now I've got a couple of surfaces in.
[30:15] I would expect you be in the same boat
[30:17] as I am right now.
[30:18] You're like, "Oh, I know how long I got.
[30:20] I got 15 minutes before the paint is
[30:22] dry.
[30:23] I can get one or two of these small
[30:25] walls at a time, no problem." So now you
[30:27] can just start thinking about picking up
[30:29] your speed a little bit. This corner, we
[30:31] came shy of the ceiling the first coat,
[30:33] and this one when we went all the way
[30:35] up. But now we don't have that drag
[30:36] because we have an acrylic paint here.
[30:38] So now I can
[30:40] start my brush out,
[30:42] push it up into that corner and I'm
[30:44] really only focused on that 1/8 of an
[30:46] inch. And I can draw a line
[30:48] with relative ease here.
[30:51] We are dealing with a rather significant
[30:53] wall here and this paint, not this
[30:56] particular paint, but today's paint
[30:58] dries super fast. If I try to cut the
[31:00] rest of this wall before I start
[31:02] rolling,
[31:03] this paint is all going to dry. So, what
[31:05] we want to think now is wet edge. If you
[31:07] have a helper,
[31:08] one cut, one roll, that works the best.
[31:11] But, if you're by yourself, you can do
[31:13] 4-ft wall section at a time. You can cut
[31:15] 4-ft top and bottom and then roll out a
[31:18] 3-ft section. We're going to start the
[31:20] clock
[31:22] because this now becomes my wet edge,
[31:24] okay? The time it took me to extend my
[31:26] cut lines, this is still a wet edge.
[31:30] All right.
[31:32] And this is where the beauty of this
[31:33] system is.
[31:34] Working alone,
[31:37] anywhere your brush or roller is going
[31:38] to make contact
[31:40] with something that's previously
[31:41] painted, it has to be wet.
[31:44] Beautiful.
[31:46] So, let's talk about what to do when
[31:47] this happens.
[31:49] >> [laughter]
[31:50] >> New with a brush, you're going to have
[31:51] mistakes. It's normal and it's not a big
[31:53] deal. It's not the end of the world and
[31:54] here's a $3 solution.
[31:56] This is a silly little scraper I found
[31:58] in the paint department. It's actually
[32:00] designed for applying uh wallpaper and
[32:02] this is what we're going to call our
[32:03] spray shield.
[32:06] You guessed it. We need more kills.
[32:10] Whenever you're solving a problem in
[32:11] this environment, you really want to
[32:12] consider time. And again, by the time
[32:14] I'm done painting all the baseboard in
[32:15] this room, this will be dry and ready
[32:17] for a coat of paint. So,
[32:19] here we go. What we're going to do is
[32:21] we're going to shoot a little closer.
[32:28] And that's it. All right.
[32:31] All right, we're going to open up our
[32:32] trim paint now.
[32:33] I'm only painting the top part of the
[32:35] baseboard, not the whole thing. Show you
[32:36] how to do this here.
[32:39] Cuz this baseboard has got a lot of
[32:40] little detail, so
[32:41] I've got detail lines and I got a detail
[32:44] line here.
[32:45] When I'm painting, if I can get away
[32:46] with just painting this top detail,
[32:48] even if the white isn't a perfect match,
[32:50] no one can tell.
[32:51] So, we're going to set our brush here.
[32:53] We're not going to push. We're just
[32:54] going to drag.
[32:58] If you push, you're going to put too
[33:00] much pressure on the bristles and it's
[33:01] going to force the paint up the side and
[33:03] the top, make a mess. So, that's simple.
[33:06] This is all about don't use pressure.
[33:09] Let the brush do the work. Now, that's
[33:10] what it looks like finished. This is a
[33:12] great time. If you see anything on your
[33:14] your door casing that's a bit of an
[33:15] anomaly you don't like, same rule. Just
[33:18] get the brush in there.
[33:20] You can redraw [snorts] a line if you
[33:21] need to.
[33:22] No tape required.
[33:24] Truth is,
[33:26] the brush can do a better job of making
[33:27] a straight line than you can putting
[33:29] tape on straight. We're coming up to the
[33:32] where we did this the kills. We'll just
[33:34] make sure it she's dry.
[33:36] We're in good shape here, guys.
[33:37] Remember, less is more. If you're trying
[33:39] to put it on really thick so that you
[33:40] can cover the colors,
[33:42] it's a mistake. It'll take an hour and a
[33:43] half or 2 hours to dry.
[33:45] You're better to go two or three coats
[33:46] that only take 10 or 15 minutes to dry.
[33:48] Remember, a big bubble of paint will dry
[33:49] from the outside in.
[33:51] And if you run that brush through it,
[33:52] you're going to bust the bubble and
[33:54] expose all that fresh paint underneath.
[33:57] There we go. Now, yep, I definitely got
[33:59] some overspray.
[34:01] And that's fine.
[34:04] I'm going to wash this brush when I'm
[34:05] done, come back and cut that color in.
[34:08] There's my overspray. [snorts]
[34:10] One little spot.
[34:11] And there's nothing really to set the
[34:13] brush on, so this one you actually got
[34:14] to hold and draw. You want to just paint
[34:16] really with one like 1
[34:18] third of the brush, just the tip.
[34:21] Remember, if you want a perfect paint
[34:22] job,
[34:24] then you got to build the house
[34:25] yourself.
[34:27] Cuz a perfect finish comes with great
[34:28] construction,
[34:30] really nice drywall work, great
[34:31] carpentry skills.
[34:33] And every step of the production
[34:36] leans into whether or not the paint
[34:38] job's going to be any good.
[34:40] So, you make sure that you give yourself
[34:42] a little bit of mercy.
[34:44] And when you're done
[34:46] going around [music] the room, feel free
[34:48] to be critical now that you've had the
[34:50] experience.
[34:52] All right, guys. There you have it. No
[34:54] tape, no mess, and no landlord special.
[34:58] With the right product and the right
[34:59] technique, you can paint your bedroom in
[35:00] a weekend.