---
title: 'How To Paint a Room Like a Pro (NO Tape Needed)'
source: 'https://youtube.com/watch?v=lQDqkg4QPRo'
video_id: 'lQDqkg4QPRo'
date: 2026-06-30
duration_sec: 2102
---

# How To Paint a Room Like a Pro (NO Tape Needed)

> Source: [How To Paint a Room Like a Pro (NO Tape Needed)](https://youtube.com/watch?v=lQDqkg4QPRo)

## Summary



## Transcript

Today I'm going to save you thousands by
showing you how to paint a room all by
yourself. Look at that. That's going to
be sexy.
Yo, I almost fell off my ladder.
All you need is a handful of tools, one
or two days, and oh yeah, no taping.
This is for anybody updating their space
or dealing with the landlord special
like I am. You know what I'm talking
about. The paint over the light switches
and the plugs and really sloppy work. So
we've got nail pops and wall damage and
paint all over the ceiling. So no matter
how bad your situation, just follow my
process and you're going to get a clean
professional finish. Let's get started.
And this is everything you're going to
need. Your favorite drill and a couple
of bits. You'll need a knife. You'll
need a five in one. Great for opening
cans of paint. You'll need a 4-in knife,
preferably brand new. I'm going to
recommend this ergonomic handy pail. And
then my favorite paint brush, 3 and
1/2-in angled sash. Grab yourself some
canvas drop cloths, 4-in mini roller,
and a tray with a liner. And you're
going to want a caulking gun. And for
priming all of your drywall repair, I
recommend Kilz oil-based stain blocker.
You're going to want to get your Radius
360 sanding block and a Wooster pole.
And for painting your walls, grab the
Sherlock stick with the easy to connect
Wooster cage and just a simple 1/2-in
nap roller. Let's get to work. And what
I like to start with is a thing that
takes the longest to dry. And that, of
course, is wall damage and nail pops.
Here's an example of a nail pop that has
a heartbeat. See that flex? That's a
screw that went past the paper. And the
way we fix it,
1-in
blow.
We're going to use Drydex. Now the
secret to this product is two things.
For a painter, it's great because it
goes white when it's dry. But it does
shrink a little bit while it's drying.
So you don't want to put it on too tight
because after that dries, you'll have
one, two, three dents in the wall. So
put it on liberally like that. When we
sand it back, we can sand it smooth. So
we can do all of the patching and then
we can get all the rest of the prep work
done while this is drying. And that
helps save give a lot of time. These
yellow things, they're a drywall plug.
You take your 5-in-1, hit the edge,
just shear it right off.
>> [snorts]
>> Then you can take the other end of your
tool,
and just create a bit of a ball, and
push that into the wall.
Now, you're not making contact, but the
hole is filled with the plug, and it
greatly reduces the amount of drying
time, and almost eliminates the
shrinkage in the hole. Anything that can
be removed should be removed. I have
seen lots of people in my career
remove the doors and leave the track.
What ends up happening is
is you get all this wall damage that
never gets painted properly, or you get
somebody getting paint all over your
track. Going to fix the ugly.
Now, let's go take care of the cold air
return grill. Cuz it's been painted in a
few times, what I'm trying to do is just
cut the paint that's bonded together
with the metal. Here we go.
So, instead of trying to clean this up,
I'm just going to buy a replacement.
That was the original paint color. I'm
not going through all the trouble of all
this work
just at the very end to go put a
finished grill back on and have a little
line showing. Now that I've got all my
wall patches drying, I can prime and
prep all of my ceiling areas. This is a
um
primer sealer. It helps to cover up all
these ugly mistakes
really conveniently in just one coat. If
somebody's got a really dark color
paint,
you might need to do two passes around
the room. So, we're going to take our
quarter of ceiling paint, and we're
going to put some of it in the handy
pail with a liner, cuz we're going to be
brushing some and rolling some.
We're
pushing the brush into the paint. It's
about 1-in thick, and we're painting
from inside the brush. There's not a
bunch of slop on the outside, okay? That
is the technique, which is why you don't
need tape.
Now, on the ceiling, actually spray the
ceiling, and then scrape this, and then
give it a light sand and paint it. And
there's actually a line here where it
separates one to the next. And all I'm
going to do is run that brush right
across that line.
Now, this is incredibly forgiving, okay?
So, if you have
very little experience, doing the edge
up against the stipple is a great way to
start. You'll notice it's a firm brush.
I don't have to get a whole lot of this
going on, okay?
Just got to stand it and put a bit of a
bend.
Gives you a lot of control. Less is more
here. We're just trying to make sure we
don't have two colors of paint on the
smooth edge so that it's obvious.
We're going to prep the roller here.
It's microfiber. The last thing we want
here is have so much paint in the roller
that when we go to touch the ceiling
there's a big blob of paint there. So,
you really use a little bit of pressure.
Make sure the paint's inside the roller.
And then that is absolutely perfect. No
dripping. And then all we're going to do
is nice and gentle like
so we don't get drips.
Okay? You're going to need to
do a little bit of practice know how
much pressure to use.
Get right into that corner.
And that's it.
Now, that's painted.
And now we have a perfect ceiling line
to paint up against.
And between the kills and the roller,
this is going to be great coverage and
that other color is going to be gone
forever. So, 4-in mini roller.
Anytime you've got a
smooth edge ceiling, works perfectly. I
know that everybody has the same stuff
everywhere. If you have
uh
just just flat
or if you have
uh like a knockdown texture or an orange
peel
or full stipple,
the only other solution that you have is
to paint the entire ceiling.
But because this is a smooth edge, we
get to completely cheat. I don't want to
add any more paint to the ceiling. I
don't want to have to
paint the entire ceiling just to clean
up a little bit of an edge. So, because
in this situation I get to do this, I
save a ton of time. Now, you might be
able to get away with not using a brush
at all to cut that line,
but what a great opportunity to practice
and work on your brush a little bit. One
of the reasons I tell people they don't
need tape cuz the paint will peel off of
the wall or the ceiling
if it hasn't finished the curing
process, which takes about a month. Now,
it's time to teach you how to use a
paintbrush like a pro. We're not working
out of the can, we're working from our
little container here. We're looking for
just about an inch, inch and a half of
paint. When you have a new brush, you
have to learn how it reacts. There's a
lot of different bristles, different
strengths. So, we're going to fill it up
and then we're going to clean it off.
We're going to start with it
almost empty and that's the best way to
practice.
And the way we do it is like when you're
learning how to paint with a painting
crew for the first time,
they shove you in the closet and if they
have to, they can do touch-up work. And
if you're sloppy and you put on too much
paint, it's okay because there's no
direct light in a closet in almost every
situation.
So, it's the safest place to learn how
to do this. You can practice your skill
set so that you've got the ability to do
really nice lines around your ceiling
later in the afternoon. This is an
angled sash. This is the heel, that's
the tip. I'm right-handed, so I'll start
on the right-hand side, but I'm going to
paint the left side and we're going to
pretend that's the ceiling and that's is
the wall. So, you put the heel and then
you push the tip
into the corner and then you
going to pull
setting that brush right in that crease.
And if you find yourself with too much
paint, stop and pull off and come again.
All right, and practice doing a cut
line.
If that was a ceiling and that's a wall,
that's actually a pretty nice job.
Yay for me, I still remember how to
paint. It's been a while.
>> [laughter]
>> And we want to have a good 3 to 4-in
line.
Now, you're not relying on your own
ability to draw that line with the
brush. What you're really doing is
taking a brush that doesn't have paint
on the outside,
setting that bristle into that corner
and then just letting the bristle
sit in that corner and you move forward
with pressure. That's all it is.
We're going to practice different
corners, different cut lines.
Always brush through your corners.
All right? You want to keep things nice
and dry.
It's okay to see the wall behind coming
through. That's why we use two coats.
Now, left side. Heel and then tip.
That works really good when there's not
a lot of paint in the brush. There's too
much paint, you're going to get it
slopping around everywhere.
There we go. Get it in that crease and
then just run it.
You get the paint out first, this is
another technique. You can come back a
little drier
and then you're just pushing the extra
paint up into that crease.
That's another great way to get it done.
So, when you push the tip, you lift the
heel
and it gives you more of a triangle,
more of a sharp tip. Upside down,
heel, triangle in the corner.
We're in a closet, so we're going to
treat the baseboard like it's a ceiling
line now. When you're painting with a
dark color,
it's a lot easier to come back and do
that one coat of baseboard at the very
end
if you haven't painted all over your
trim. This isn't speed, so I'm going to
be a little bit more careful here. If
anything doesn't have enough paint or it
needs a little bit of rework or
doctoring up, save it for the second
coat. As a matter of fact, when you're
painting your ceiling line for the first
time, especially with a dark color, I
recommend that you leave a little bit of
a gap on purpose. I'm going to go about
an eighth to a 16th below that line
on purpose.
And then on the second coat I would come
back.
Push right into that corner.
And then finish drawing that line right
in that crease.
That's a great technique, especially if
you're new to this.
Give yourself a little mercy at 8 ft in
the air.
All right?
You aren't going to be able to tell if
that
16th or 32nd of an inch is one coat or
two coats.
Just saying.
Because we're dealing with acrylic
paint, you can see the paint is starting
to work its way all the way up the
bristles. Every time I I put a pressure
on that brush and I push,
the paint goes in two directions, up
into the bristles and then out to the
wall. Okay? So, you've only got about an
hour while you're working before you
have to stop and go wash your brush and
start over again.
So, we're going to finish off this
closet and then go take care of the
brush.
Once that acrylic hardens up, ladies,
it's like having your nails done. Now,
we have texture
that hasn't been cleaned right and this
is how we do it.
We're not just drawing a line cuz that's
what happens.
You got a really nasty look, okay? So,
instead [snorts] of drawing a line,
I want you to do something like this.
You're going to pull and push. Pull and
push.
Like this into that ceiling. That's a
little bit more dramatic than I want you
to do, but you get the idea.
So, it's just a constant
jiggle wiggle. And what happens is
you'll paint the back side of every one
of those bumps
as well as the front side.
And over the course of that whole
ceiling line,
it'll look a lot more consistent. Now,
it looks like the texture's coming into
the wall instead of the other way
around.
As a homeowner,
you will pay somewhere between
$500 and $1,000 for good quality paint
job
in a big room in your house if it's
involving
repairs and ceilings and things like
that.
Now, the paint only costs you about 150
bucks.
The rest of that is labor.
Or, you can just buy the paint
and save almost a thousand dollars a
room. How about you decide?
But, that's pretty darn simple, ain't
it?
First of all, we're going to wash
everything going in and away from your
bone, okay? Hot, but not too hot. And
not cold. Cold water makes your acrylic
clump up right away. And we're just
going to work the surface with your
thumb. Try to get as much of that paint
out as you can. Pull Pull bristles
apart. Get some water into the middle.
So, it's already looking pretty clean,
but like that's really dirty water
coming out. Okay? What we're going to do
now is we're going to just take some
regular dish soap, and we're just going
to suds it up and foam it up and try to
keep all that soap stuck inside the
bristles. And then we're going to do the
same thing with the soap. We're going to
just massage this all out. Always
running the water away from the bone so
that we don't push any of this up into
it. Now, we're going to use force, and
we're going to go the exact opposite
direction, like as if we're loading the
brush with paint. Turn up the water just
a bit,
and we're going to pound it in there.
All right?
We want to force that water right up to
the top, right inside that bone. Now
that we've cleaned it out the best we
can, and we're forcing whatever's
[music] left stuck inside there out.
When you push it on the side really
tight,
there should be no dirt coming into that
water. Look at that. That's drinkable,
ladies and gentlemen. Now, we're just
going to squeeze it, wring it out.
Now, we're going to just put it between
our hands, and we're going to spin
cycle.
Like a dog coming in out of the rain, we
have a perfectly brand new brush again.
And it's ready to paint. You don't have
to let it dry or anything, either. That
is good to go right there. Now that you
know how to use a brush, let's go
through the steps in how to paint your
room in proper order so that you can be
absolutely efficient and get the rest of
this work done in just a few hours. Step
one, caulking. If you have any gaps
where your trim meets the wall or where
a wall meets a wall. Remember, we're in
a four-season climate. We get massive
expansion and contraction in the
corners. And the solution is to use a
60-year caulking, not the cheap
painter's caulking, okay? Because it
cracks. There's no sense just putting a
little bead. We're not looking for a
sharp corner here because it'll happen
again next year. So, what I'm doing is
I'm putting enough of this product on
here that it should protect that crack
from realizing itself again next year.
One other thing to consider when you're
doing caulking,
take a look at your baseboards. A lot of
builders will do this. They'll come
along, they'll do sloppy carpentry, and
they're relying on the complexity of
this profile to make it really easy to
cover their mistakes for not having a
nice tight fit. Now, this caulking is
not a quick try. It takes about an hour,
which is why we want to get it done now.
So, everything else that we do for the
next few steps allows this to dry fully
before the roller finds that wall. I'm
going to use the 3M sanding sponge now.
It's an angled sponge, so it's great for
details in the corner and they've
included this cute little design on the
back for dust control. So, the idea is
is as you sand, the dust isn't being
thrown up in your face. It can actually
fall to the ground. You should not feel
any
change in depth. If you do, it's a bump.
It'll show up with a dark paint. This is
not like sanding fresh drywall mud. What
we're doing when we're sanding drywall
mud is we've applied thin layers of mud
and we're just feathering the mud into
the paper.
This is all about
can you feel any ridges?
Adding an acrylic paint
is going to multiply it visually by
about 20 times. Once we've got all of
our patches sanded, we're pulling out
our kills. Keep a distance or it'll blob
up on you. This product takes about 10
or 15 minutes to dry. There's enough
process left that it'll guaranteed be
dry by the time you get over with the
roller. Next step, we're going to hit
all of the casings. I'm talking about
this abomination. That's just
ridiculous. Make sure that it's clean.
This is my trim paint. Looks pretty
white, but doesn't look as white as the
original trim. I'm going to put the heel
of the brush on the wall and paint the
wall and the trim at the same time. This
will help us when we come back to get a
really nice line. And my goal here is to
try to paint the side of this trim and
not have to paint the face. I'm going to
do the same thing, hit all the windows.
Let's say somebody did a decent job
painting the edge.
You hitting it again is always a good
thing. This edge isn't all that
terrible. So, that's really clean. Now,
watch.
I'm going to pretend I'm painting the
next color. I'll try to do a perfect cut
in for the window and then we'll see if
any green is still showing. Now, every
one of those little green spots is going
to show up when you're done your paint
job. So, better to have a preemptive
strike, come back with the brush,
paint it all in,
and then not have to worry about it. Now
you know you got a clean edge. We have
the same thing with the trim here and
the trim here. What I'm going to do is
I'm just going to overfill this whole
area to make sure that all that cutting
work is going to have a fresh start.
Last step of preparation
is the sanding. And we're using a 220
sand grits. Two things we're doing here.
We are sanding off any dirt that got
trapped in the last paint job and we're
collecting all of the cobwebs that have
collected on your wall. Now this is not
something that you
need to do with a huge amount of
precision and we're just looking to
cover one pass over the whole surface so
that our finished look
is dynamic. Now we're coming into the
corner
where we have fresh caulking. It's still
dense,
which means it's dry on the surface, but
we can't afford any impact with the
sanding block.
So we're going to leave a couple of
inches there.
Now we've made it all the way back to
the closet.
Here we are, [snorts] guys. Day two.
That means this paint
was shaken yesterday. We need to give it
a quick stir top to bottom. All right.
First thing I'm going to do is I'm going
to finish off in the closet all the
details that we didn't get to yesterday.
Did the patch with the Kilz and this
triangle board here is actually MDF and
it was painted as well. At this point
you've practiced enough that you should
be a little comfortable with the brush.
You also want to have the brush seasoned
with paint, but not too much paint. You
should see lots of bristles. So we're
going to hit around the plugs. Never
rely on your roller to do this. Cutting
in is giving you room to roll up to
something that's already painted so you
can avoid getting too close and getting
your paint on your actual plugs and
switches. Once you're comfortable,
proper way to paint is to run right down
both.
Just do a few feet.
And then just brush it out about 1 and
1/2 to 2 in. If we get paint on the
trim, then we're definitely going to
have to do two coats. Whoops.
Now we'll have an example
later on in the video of how much work
it takes to actually get that covered.
It's time to tackle the ceiling.
>> [laughter]
[gasps]
>> So, let's get that done. I don't want
you to be nervous at this point.
Remember, heal the tip. We're going to
come short of that ceiling on purpose.
Get the paint out of the brush, and now
we can come back,
paint down a little bit, and that should
be about 4 in, okay? Now, when your
roller comes up, your roller is going to
roll into this about this close,
and then roll away. That way, your
roller is never getting anywhere near
the ceiling. You do not want to ever
make contact with the ceiling cuz that
puts you back to step one. All right, so
if you're feeling brave and you want to
tackle this, let's do this together.
Heal on the wall below the ceiling, and
work your way up to it as you're pulling
along.
As soon as your bristle hits that
corner,
just run your brush along
sitting in that corner and that edge.
It's all there is to it.
I mean, after you get good at this,
you'll never use tape again. If I was to
try and tape
the ceiling
right now, you're taping over fresh
paint and primer,
and it's going to peel.
And then you're going to be back to
repairing the ceiling,
spackling, letting it dry, sanding it
off, priming it, painting it again.
Right? You can't afford that. It's just
no. That's just a no scenario.
This is a great line. You're going to be
really happy with that. We're standing
up here 6 in away, and the camera
saying "Hey
Jeff still knows how to paint." And you
can, too. We're going to cut the entire
room before we pull out the roller
because depending on the speed that you
paint, if you have the cut dish and the
rolling tray at the same time filled
with paint, it starts to dry immediately
after you pour it out. The entire room
cut and roll
probably will you take about 2 hours,
guys. Okay, just to factor that in.
If you're working by yourself, and if
you are working with a helper, you can
cut that time in half. My paint line is
just about at the brass. It's a perfect
time to wash. This is my fifth time
washing this brush on this project.
>> [laughter]
>> The reason I need this to be clean is
because of this. I have a cut line here
and a cut line here, and you need your
brush to be the same size as the place
you're cutting. This brush is huge
relative to this situation, and there's
no way for me to maintain control and
cut both lines at the same time unless I
do this.
Make [sighs] my 3-in brush a 1-in brush.
Hold it like a gun. We'll load it,
and I can cut one side,
and I can cut the other side. You don't
need to go out and buy an artist brush
set
if you use this technique. Remember,
this isn't about speed, it's about
precision. And if I take 10 minutes on
this little area and make it absolutely
perfect, then that's okay with me.
Would this go faster with a smaller
brush? Yeah. Do you always have that
brush on you?
We're at that point in the project we're
going to roll. My tray has liners, and
it has this tray arm. It's not available
everywhere,
so I'll throw a link in the video
description, and if you can
get it, you can get it. If you can't,
we'll have to see what we can do about
that another time.
Uh this is my Sherlock Wooster stick,
and I'm using the Wooster handle. The
handle has the threading inside for the
standard thread size for any extension
pole, but it also has this pin lock on
it. And the pin lock works like this.
So, it can't come off, and it can't
twist.
Traditional extension poles are just
threaded.
As you're rolling, you change your
direction, this starts to unravel.
And then, as you're rolling, it's all
over the wall like this, okay? Right out
of control. And you're banging into
things, it's a complete mess. With this
system, everything is locked.
I can run my roller within a eighth of
an inch up and down that wall. Perfect
control. Never scratching the paint on
the surface next to it. It also allows
you to extend and collapse, depending on
the space you're working in.
Okay?
And allows you to keep your hands below
your heart while you're painting.
Okay, this is exhausting. And you'll put
way too much paint on the wall. You get
yourself back off the wall, keep your
hands low,
and you can paint with ease from top to
bottom.
I'm going to pour the contents over the
edge, but not right to the roller. I
don't want to put all of the paint in
there, because I don't want to let that
sit there and skim over.
I'll leave my brush in the paint. Now,
it is time to roll the wall. And the way
we do that is we roll into the paint, we
lift it up.
We do not sink it to the bottom. We
don't want to fill all this up with
paint okay?
Nice and easy.
Just make contact, lift it back.
Roll this in 15 or 20 times. Push the
paint right to the middle of the roller.
This is what we call priming the roller.
I'm using a 13-mil roller sleeve. It's
only half an inch, and it's for smooth
to semi-smooth surfaces. So, make sure
you buy the right roller for the right
kind of surface. Smooth is for doors,
semi-smooth is for walls. All right?
When you roll, you always pick one
direction. Rollers leave texture on the
wall. No different than getting a grass
cut at a professional golf course, or
vacuuming a high-pile carpet. As you
roll,
the bristles are pulling off the paint.
And when you go the other direction,
they're pulling off paint in a different
direction.
Okay? And so, you get a different
reflection. And you'll actually
mess up the look on your wall
if you go in more than one direction.
And we're really trying to dry the
surface of that roller out.
Get right into the corner.
But, we're not trying to push it so hard
that we're like squeezing the paint out,
okay?
You can see we're just kind of painting
and letting gravity do its thing. We're
going back to the beginning at our
driest point, picking up the extra paint
that was put on from the very beginning,
okay?
That's it, nice and simple. Now that
it's seasoned, we'll call it, it moves a
lot faster. Don't start your the fresh
roller in a top corner,
okay? Start in the middle of the wall,
roll it down, roll back up to the
starting position. There's a texture
here, looks like a fast running river.
There's a lot of paint on that wall, and
we're going to pick that up in a minute,
but we're going to back into the old
line.
We're going to come forward now. We've
dried off a little bit.
Now we're picking up a little bit more.
We're going to spread that out.
We're going to come back through that
and pick it up again.
See how this works?
We lay it down thick, we dry out the
roller, we come back through the heavy
paint, we pick up more paint.
And to get into that corner, we simply
spin it around
and get that roller within that 1/4 in
line. That's a nice healthy line, 1/4 in
to 1/2 in. Now,
when I get up here,
cuz it's a different surface, I could
cheat, I could go left or right, but I
don't need to. I just go like this,
get all that extra paint off, and then
I'm just going to go back through. And
as I'm leaving, rolling paint off,
I'm picking it up from that wet line
at about the same rate.
Makes this very consistent. And you can
get to a place where you can feel the
pulling away. It's almost like a
texture, like a magnet.
And you can tell when your roller is wet
and when it's dry.
Always have from this rod facing the
direction that you're painting,
so that you're pushing the paint here
and you're picking it up here.
Gets rid of all the lines on the wall.
The same reason we're starting in the
closet for the roll as with the brush,
this is a great place to practice, to
get used to the paint that you've
bought,
how it reacts with the roller, how it
reacts with the wall surface,
so that when you get out into the main
part of the room, you've got a feel
for the relationship between the paint,
the roller, your pressure, all these
things. Our goal now is to finish off
the rest of this room. Okay, guys, it's
second coat time and we are going to go
open a brand new can of paint today. We
do not want to run the risk of starting
some of the work with the brush with the
old paint that had that separation
issue.
So, this one's freshly shook. We're
going to go ahead now and
do that 4-in mini roller work. We got
two spots to do little touch-ups. This
is a little bit sloppier.
So, when you get over to the area where
you want to roll, you're going to be
sliding paint on the wall.
So, you just want to get it applied
and if it's too greasy and it's just
sliding around instead of rolling, ease
off on the pressure and that should
generally work. If it doesn't,
because it's not seasoned, just roll
more of the wall out and get that roller
a little drier, okay? Mini rollers can
be a little bit frustrating if you have
too much paint on them. We're doing this
first coat just before we get started
on the rest of this area with the second
coat, knowing that this is going to dry
in about 25 to 30 minutes, so it's not
going to slow me down at all and in that
way
my mini roller has the same paint for
the second coat as the rest of the room
to avoid any
flashing or glassy areas.
When you're painting your finish coat,
there's a rule to get what we call the
wet edge.
Let me just show you. We have a
difference in in glare here and that's
because brushing and rolling leaves
different amounts of paint on the wall.
Brushing it generally leaves more.
But what we want to make sure is that we
don't have
brush lines and then roller lines that
dry as such. We want the texture to be
the same.
So, what we want to do is we want to
sand it all
just to make sure we don't have any dirt
or grit on the wall,
but we want to then paint the entire
surface
cut and roll before
the cut work dries on the second coat.
Now, this is relatively fresh paint, so
you're going to see it leaves a bit of a
scuff and that's normal. Don't be worked
up over that. It's okay to use a little
bit of pressure and you'll see that
little white dot there.
That was a chunk of dirt that was stuck
in the paint.
I'm going to prep few surfaces
and then I'm going to leave my sanding
pole right there. And that's going to
mark what's done and what isn't. Now, my
goal here is to cut and roll each
surface one at a time so that the brush
marks don't dry before the roller marks
hit it because if the brush mark is dry
and the roller comes up to it
then this stays looking like a brush.
But if it's wet and I roll into it, then
they melt together, okay? I'm also
starting with a brand new roller today.
I don't want yesterday's paint mixing in
with today's paint.
I know that might sound a little
paranoid, but you got to buy the two
gallons anyway, so any little anomaly
can really affect something when you
have acrylic in your paint even with low
sheen. This is an old brush and I use
this to clean my baseboards. We don't
want to pick up the dust and then set it
right back down
into the wall again. This is second
coat. Uh we still don't need everything
perfect in the inside corners. We have
artist brushes. We can come back and do
little touch-ups later on. It's not
going to affect the overall quality of
the finish if you cut short of the
ceiling. This is your chance to fix any
of those mistakes. The second coat, we
are not doing both sides of the corner.
We're just focusing on one corner and
because I've got 15 minutes, I'm
comfortable doing this wall as well. If
you're happy with the cut line
don't try to duplicate it. In the same
way, if you go short on the first one,
you want to finish the cut on the
second.
If your first cut is nice
come [snorts] up to a 16th of an inch of
that line.
You don't need a second coat of paint
right at the cut line. I'm seizing this
roller.
And again, we're going to go use the
power of this rig that cuz it doesn't
twist.
Get right nice and close to that corner.
And we're going to roll that brush line
into texture of the roller.
Second coat, we're going to get closer
to the top and closer to the bottom.
Just don't touch that ceiling. Take your
time. And one other thing we're going to
do we haven't shown you yet
is we're going to texture the wall by
finishing rolling down
on the whole surface.
So instead of back rolling, which is
just
the process of rolling back and forth on
the wall,
we're going to directional roll, okay?
And this will eliminate
that just vacuumed the carpet look,
okay? Usually the second coat
uses about 80% as much paint as the
first coat. We're just trying to make
sure we're getting enough color and
content and solids on the wall to finish
the job.
Now, if you're not as concerned about
getting rid of those lines from the
brush, you don't need to get up near the
ceiling okay?
But if you're like me,
you're going to have a little OCD about
these things. You're going to come back
and look at it afterwards and go, "Ah, I
really wish
I just would have textured properly.
I would have rolled up into my brush
lines cuz you can tell.
Especially with dark colors, guys.
Now I've got a couple of surfaces in.
I would expect you be in the same boat
as I am right now.
You're like, "Oh, I know how long I got.
I got 15 minutes before the paint is
dry.
I can get one or two of these small
walls at a time, no problem." So now you
can just start thinking about picking up
your speed a little bit. This corner, we
came shy of the ceiling the first coat,
and this one when we went all the way
up. But now we don't have that drag
because we have an acrylic paint here.
So now I can
start my brush out,
push it up into that corner and I'm
really only focused on that 1/8 of an
inch. And I can draw a line
with relative ease here.
We are dealing with a rather significant
wall here and this paint, not this
particular paint, but today's paint
dries super fast. If I try to cut the
rest of this wall before I start
rolling,
this paint is all going to dry. So, what
we want to think now is wet edge. If you
have a helper,
one cut, one roll, that works the best.
But, if you're by yourself, you can do
4-ft wall section at a time. You can cut
4-ft top and bottom and then roll out a
3-ft section. We're going to start the
clock
because this now becomes my wet edge,
okay? The time it took me to extend my
cut lines, this is still a wet edge.
All right.
And this is where the beauty of this
system is.
Working alone,
anywhere your brush or roller is going
to make contact
with something that's previously
painted, it has to be wet.
Beautiful.
So, let's talk about what to do when
this happens.
>> [laughter]
>> New with a brush, you're going to have
mistakes. It's normal and it's not a big
deal. It's not the end of the world and
here's a $3 solution.
This is a silly little scraper I found
in the paint department. It's actually
designed for applying uh wallpaper and
this is what we're going to call our
spray shield.
You guessed it. We need more kills.
Whenever you're solving a problem in
this environment, you really want to
consider time. And again, by the time
I'm done painting all the baseboard in
this room, this will be dry and ready
for a coat of paint. So,
here we go. What we're going to do is
we're going to shoot a little closer.
And that's it. All right.
All right, we're going to open up our
trim paint now.
I'm only painting the top part of the
baseboard, not the whole thing. Show you
how to do this here.
Cuz this baseboard has got a lot of
little detail, so
I've got detail lines and I got a detail
line here.
When I'm painting, if I can get away
with just painting this top detail,
even if the white isn't a perfect match,
no one can tell.
So, we're going to set our brush here.
We're not going to push. We're just
going to drag.
If you push, you're going to put too
much pressure on the bristles and it's
going to force the paint up the side and
the top, make a mess. So, that's simple.
This is all about don't use pressure.
Let the brush do the work. Now, that's
what it looks like finished. This is a
great time. If you see anything on your
your door casing that's a bit of an
anomaly you don't like, same rule. Just
get the brush in there.
You can redraw [snorts] a line if you
need to.
No tape required.
Truth is,
the brush can do a better job of making
a straight line than you can putting
tape on straight. We're coming up to the
where we did this the kills. We'll just
make sure it she's dry.
We're in good shape here, guys.
Remember, less is more. If you're trying
to put it on really thick so that you
can cover the colors,
it's a mistake. It'll take an hour and a
half or 2 hours to dry.
You're better to go two or three coats
that only take 10 or 15 minutes to dry.
Remember, a big bubble of paint will dry
from the outside in.
And if you run that brush through it,
you're going to bust the bubble and
expose all that fresh paint underneath.
There we go. Now, yep, I definitely got
some overspray.
And that's fine.
I'm going to wash this brush when I'm
done, come back and cut that color in.
There's my overspray. [snorts]
One little spot.
And there's nothing really to set the
brush on, so this one you actually got
to hold and draw. You want to just paint
really with one like 1
third of the brush, just the tip.
Remember, if you want a perfect paint
job,
then you got to build the house
yourself.
Cuz a perfect finish comes with great
construction,
really nice drywall work, great
carpentry skills.
And every step of the production
leans into whether or not the paint
job's going to be any good.
So, you make sure that you give yourself
a little bit of mercy.
And when you're done
going around [music] the room, feel free
to be critical now that you've had the
experience.
All right, guys. There you have it. No
tape, no mess, and no landlord special.
With the right product and the right
technique, you can paint your bedroom in
a weekend.