[00:00] First, I would recommend making sure when checking the oil specification with the manufacturer. The manufacturer will offer two different quantities of oil,
[00:16] Second, the correct oil filter. and where everything is that you will need to interact with. On this engine I've also got a dipstick on this particular model,
[00:33] to familiarize myself with where the sump plug is and where the oil filter is. but if you're unsure, check a reputable forum or query it with the manufacturer
[00:47] I'm now coming back up to the top of the engine to remove the oil filler cap. not an airlock in the engine. rather than glugging out and potentially causing a mess all over your driveway.
[01:18] doesn't get squashed or crushed when fitting the new oil filter. to make sure that it goes on smoothly.
[01:30] There's no need to over tighten this.
[01:49] make sure you replace the crushed washer on the sump plug. flipping over the original crush washer and putting it back in place. This instance, though, we've got a new one, so we'll be using that
[02:08] It doesn't need to be overly tightened. So you don't want to be stripping the threads on the sump When I checked online, the recommended amount was 3.3 liters, I've topped it up to about 2.8/2.9 liters.
[02:22] I'm now checking the dipstick and it's in between the minimum and maximum mark, I am taking into consideration, though, that the oil filter will be empty, that when we turn the engine over, it's got plenty to go around the full system
[02:36] won't allow an engine to start until oil pressure is being recognized. If you're working on an older vehicle, it may be worth turning the vehicle over Until oil pressures build up within the oil system.
[02:52] Now we just need to refit the under tray, perhaps check the oil level again If you found this video useful, like the video, subscribe
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