[0:00] How do you build a gaming PC? It's the
[0:02] age-old question and it's one that
[0:04] causes quite a lot of stress. It's a lot
[0:06] of money to spend on different PC
[0:07] components. Even if you go for a more
[0:09] budget friendly system and the last
[0:11] thing you want to do is break something
[0:12] or just find that you put it together
[0:14] and it doesn't work. The good news is
[0:15] though, you've got me. And this is the
[0:17] single video that we've ever done
[0:20] doesn't really make any sense. This is
[0:21] definitely the best video we've ever
[0:23] done to give you the clearest possible
[0:25] guide through all of the ins and the
[0:27] outs, all of the intricacies, all of the
[0:29] tiny little pins. And we're going to
[0:30] show you exactly why everything we have
[0:32] here works together. We'll be talking
[0:34] about compatibility, but we'll be
[0:36] showing you as in clearest detail as
[0:37] possible, how to put everything in all
[0:40] of the relative places, how to do so
[0:41] without damaging anything or making any
[0:43] mistakes, and obviously to helping you
[0:45] get the best possible rig possible.
[0:46] We've actually made a couple of little
[0:48] mistakes in here that would be really
[0:49] easy to make. and we're going to show
[0:51] you exactly what they are and how to
[0:53] prevent them in your build and just get
[0:54] the best possible gaming PC. I'm also
[0:56] going to say as well that whilst we have
[0:57] chosen parts that go really well
[0:59] together as well, we're also going to
[1:00] leave links down in the description
[1:02] below not only to current pricing but
[1:04] also to some like parts from other
[1:06] different price points as well because
[1:07] obviously not everyone wants to spend I
[1:09] think this one was about £1,600 but as
[1:11] you'll see we could do this for as low
[1:12] as like £1,200 1250. If you want to
[1:15] spend more, you want to spend less
[1:16] obviously we've got loads of different
[1:18] recommendations. So, you can find those
[1:19] all listed down below. But actually,
[1:21] speaking of PC parts, this video is
[1:23] proudly sponsored by Overclockers UK in
[1:25] the UK. And essentially, Overclockers
[1:27] are one of the best places to go for PC
[1:29] parts. They have such an enormous list
[1:31] of stock as well. So, you might find
[1:33] that if you go on other sites, they're
[1:35] going to have like some of the maybe
[1:36] like the Ryzen CPUs or like some of the
[1:38] cases, but if you really want the best
[1:40] possible selection, you need to go to a
[1:41] PC retailer and Overclockers UK. We've
[1:43] been working with them for years.
[1:44] They're fantastic. They also offer next
[1:46] day delivery as well. even if you order
[1:48] relatively uh late into the day or
[1:50] afternoon, which is really useful if
[1:51] you're putting something together and
[1:52] you realize you're missing like a couple
[1:54] of fans or uh you've just made a mistake
[1:56] on your order. Really, really useful.
[1:58] And you often get some Haribo as well in
[1:59] the box, which is a nice little bonus.
[2:01] Massive thank you to Overclockers UK for
[2:02] sponsoring this video. Everything that
[2:04] you find here is listed down below with
[2:06] Overclockers UK links, as well as other
[2:08] global stores as well. We're aware not
[2:10] everyone lives in the UK, but let's now
[2:13] enter the realm of PC gaming and get
[2:14] this thing started. is incredibly
[2:16] exciting and I really hope that you can
[2:18] follow along at home. Now, the first
[2:19] thing that you're going to need to do is
[2:21] just make sure obviously you grab
[2:22] everything that you need, including all
[2:23] of the parts, but then also your tools.
[2:25] And the good news is is very
[2:26] straightforward. Most builds you
[2:27] probably need two screwdrivers. Both are
[2:29] Phillips cross heads. One is slightly
[2:31] smaller than the other. This is going to
[2:32] be used for things like plugging and
[2:33] screwing your motherboard in, like
[2:35] installing fans, whilst this one is just
[2:36] going to be used for putting your
[2:38] storage in your tiny little SSD. Now,
[2:40] some rigs, most of them not, but some
[2:42] rigs sometimes you need some pliers if
[2:44] you've got a screw that needs kind of
[2:46] like we say screw, it's a standoff, but
[2:48] we'll walk you through what a standoff
[2:49] is a little bit later. Sometimes they
[2:51] need a little bit of a tighten or
[2:52] sometimes you need to move them around.
[2:53] Pliers are quite useful. As I say, most
[2:55] of the time you won't need these, but
[2:56] these are pretty much the only three
[2:57] tools you need. A lot of people are also
[2:59] worried about static and obviously it's
[3:01] a fantastic idea if you want to have
[3:03] like an anti-static wristband that's
[3:05] kind of attached to the chassis cuz it
[3:07] can ground you. I'm not specifically
[3:08] going to recommend for or against that.
[3:10] All I'm going to do is say that I've
[3:12] built probably like 100 PCs in this very
[3:14] room and I've never done it. And as far
[3:16] as I know, I've never had an issue. That
[3:18] doesn't mean you won't. If you want to
[3:20] feel more comfortable you by using some
[3:21] anti-atic protection, that's fantastic.
[3:24] But all I'm saying is I haven't. I don't
[3:27] and I haven't had an issue. But as I
[3:28] say, it's a lot of expensive gear. So I
[3:30] understand if you want to. My first rig
[3:32] I did. Choosing parts. I've done a full
[3:34] video on this that goes through
[3:36] everything in much greater detail. And
[3:37] if you haven't watched that, I highly
[3:39] recommend that you do because choosing
[3:40] your PC parts is incredibly important
[3:42] because it means you're getting great
[3:43] value for money and that everything will
[3:45] be properly compatible. You can find
[3:46] that video in the top right corner of
[3:47] your screen. Honestly, really, really
[3:49] good. Hopefully, by the end of it,
[3:50] you'll be an expert on everything PC
[3:52] parts. But a quick recap if you haven't
[3:54] or you need a recap. Essentially, it's
[3:56] kind of eight different PC parts that
[3:58] you need for a full completed rig. You
[4:00] can obviously go for more than this and
[4:01] we are doing it here today, but
[4:03] typically you need eight things to make
[4:04] sure that your gaming PC works. The
[4:06] first one is a case. Obviously, this is
[4:09] got everything and it's going going to
[4:10] go inside it. The key thing really you
[4:12] need to worry about here or think about
[4:14] I suppose is air flow. If you have a
[4:16] really closed off case, then you might
[4:18] find that it's a lot harder to get your
[4:20] temperatures nice and low because it's
[4:21] harder for air to enter or exit the
[4:23] case. But then the other thing really is
[4:24] just the size. if you want to have it on
[4:26] your desk. Obviously, be aware that
[4:27] large dual chamber cases take up a lot
[4:29] of space. But then also size for the
[4:31] motherboard. You can't go for a tiny
[4:33] little case and then put a fulls size
[4:34] motherboard in it. But likewise, you
[4:36] can't well you can, but it would look a
[4:37] little bit silly if you want for a
[4:38] massive case and put a small motherboard
[4:40] inside it. Now, we have different sizes
[4:43] and these will be listed for your case.
[4:45] And the different sizes are ATX,
[4:47] microATX, or miniITX. This is a full
[4:50] size ATX motherboard. that's going to be
[4:52] the best bet for most people because
[4:54] it's got loads of sockets on it, loads
[4:56] of ports, and most cases are ATX these
[4:59] days. But typically, if you want to step
[5:00] down and go for something smaller, most
[5:02] people probably go for ITX and build
[5:04] like a really small rig, but especially
[5:05] if you're building a budget friendly
[5:06] system, you can get MATX, MicroATX, get
[5:09] a slightly smaller case, and then you
[5:11] can save a bit of money here as well.
[5:12] The downside though is that you don't
[5:14] always get the full four RAM slots,
[5:16] which is useful for upgrading. But then
[5:17] just because it's a smaller motherboard,
[5:19] there's usually less on it, which
[5:20] doesn't necessarily matter to most
[5:22] people. But if you want to put loads of
[5:24] different PCIe devices and just have the
[5:26] flexibility of maybe like loads of SSDs
[5:28] and things, you are limited a bit more
[5:30] by physical space. I will add, by the
[5:32] way, that obviously we are going to
[5:33] spend the next few minutes going through
[5:34] all of the parts. If you think you
[5:35] already know this and just want to skip
[5:36] ahead to the process, use the timestamps
[5:39] on the video that can take you to the
[5:40] exact bit that you need or just skip
[5:42] ahead to the bit where we actually build
[5:43] it. But what I was going to say is that
[5:45] this motherboard is an AMD motherboard.
[5:48] You get AMD and Intel. And the best way
[5:50] of knowing compatibility really is to
[5:52] have a look at the socket. So this is an
[5:54] AM5 compatible motherboard, which means
[5:56] the processors that's going to go inside
[5:58] this are AM5. Now, to doubly check that
[6:01] your processor is compatible, I'd always
[6:03] choose the processor first, then look at
[6:05] the motherboards and just go on the
[6:07] manufacturer's website and it will say
[6:09] supported CPUs, and then assuming you've
[6:11] got the latest BIOS update, this CPU
[6:13] will be compatible with the motherboard.
[6:15] The reason I add that last bit is
[6:16] because here we're using a B650e
[6:19] motherboard because this is around about
[6:20] £100 cheaper than the newer B850
[6:23] equivalent. But the only downside
[6:25] really, other than losing USB 4 and
[6:27] having slightly slower Wi-Fi really on
[6:29] this particular board, is that you will
[6:30] need to do a BIOS flash, a BIOS update
[6:33] in order to actually get this to work. I
[6:34] know this is starting to sound a little
[6:35] bit complicated, but genuinely, I think
[6:37] that's probably the most complicated
[6:38] thing about the whole build. So, you can
[6:40] relax. Everything else is much simpler.
[6:42] Obviously, to pair with this, you are
[6:44] going to need a CPU. And as I say, I
[6:46] would pick this first. The one we're
[6:47] using here is pretty much in a good way
[6:49] the most middle- of the road high-end
[6:51] gaming CPU you can get. It's really easy
[6:53] to recommend for basically any system.
[6:54] This is a Ryzen 7 9700X. Obviously, this
[6:57] is from AMD. Most builds at the time of
[7:00] filming that I do are AMD just because
[7:03] the Ryzen CPUs at the moment are kind of
[7:04] just geared towards gaming and give you
[7:06] better value. But having said that,
[7:07] there certainly are reasons to go for
[7:09] Intel, especially if you go for like a
[7:11] 14th gen chip or if you're watching this
[7:13] in the future, maybe Intel Core Ultra 2
[7:15] has got like amazing gaming performance
[7:17] and great value as well. But it doesn't
[7:19] matter too much which way you go as long
[7:21] as you know what you're buying into. I'd
[7:23] always recommend having a look at the
[7:24] benchmarks and things of different video
[7:26] games to ensure that you're getting the
[7:28] right chip for you. But obviously the
[7:29] core count of the CPU is going to be
[7:31] different depending on the one that you
[7:32] go for. So the more money you spend
[7:34] quite often the more cores you get. But
[7:35] then you can buy like gaming CPUs like
[7:38] the 7900 or 7800 I should say and the
[7:41] 9800 X3D. These are the best for gaming
[7:44] as long as your graphics card is really
[7:46] good as well. Again, there's no point
[7:48] spending like £500 on a CPU and then
[7:51] £300 on a graphics card. You be much
[7:53] better off doing it the other way round,
[7:55] but typically you need about eight
[7:56] cores. You could get away with six for
[7:58] gaming, especially on a budget friendly
[7:59] system. And at the time of filming, any
[8:01] more than that doesn't make masses of
[8:02] difference, but if you're watching this
[8:03] in 3 years time, it might be a different
[8:05] story. You probably noticed that the box
[8:06] for the CPU though is very, very small.
[8:08] There's no cooler inside this particular
[8:10] one. Budget friendly chips usually come
[8:12] with something very small that you can
[8:14] use. It's called a stock cooler. It's
[8:15] fine for like getting you by, but if you
[8:18] want something that's much quieter and
[8:19] unlocks the full performance of a lot of
[8:21] the chips, you need something third
[8:22] party. Now, this is very overkill.
[8:25] Remember when I said I was going to make
[8:26] some mistakes, if you like throughout
[8:28] this video potentially, it's to go for
[8:29] something like this. This is a massive
[8:31] 360 liquid cooler. It's going to look
[8:34] awesome. It's going to fill up our case.
[8:36] It's going to give you great thermal
[8:37] performance and low noise for your CPU.
[8:39] But if you're trying to save as much
[8:40] money as possible and really kind of
[8:42] like pump up the FPS, then instead of
[8:44] going for a liquid cooler, I'd usually
[8:46] recommend that most people go for, he
[8:49] says, trying not to drop stuff, one of
[8:50] these. This is Arctic Freezer 36 ARGB.
[8:53] It's my personal favorite cooler cuz in
[8:56] terms of value for money, this is often
[8:57] around about like 30 35 or dollars, even
[9:00] with the ones with the RGB. And it's
[9:03] actually suitable for most gaming CPUs.
[9:05] It's going to be nice and quiet, going
[9:07] to run relatively cool as well, and it's
[9:09] going to all you need. So, ask yourself,
[9:11] does it really make sense to be spending
[9:12] like a extra $100 or $100 plus on
[9:16] something like this when that could go
[9:18] towards a better graphics card, and I'll
[9:19] get a more noticeable improvement in
[9:21] games. There's not necessarily a right
[9:23] or wrong answer, but I'd probably say
[9:24] most people would be better off with
[9:25] this. But, we're going to install both
[9:27] throughout this video, again, just to
[9:28] show you the differences and well, how
[9:30] to install both. Obviously, you're also
[9:32] going to need to grab yourself some
[9:33] storage or an SSD. Now, if you already
[9:35] have like existing drives, so maybe like
[9:37] an old school SATA SSD or like a hard
[9:39] drive from yesterday year, then
[9:41] obviously you can bring that across if
[9:42] you want. But the benefits with this is
[9:43] it's so much faster. In fact, a lot of
[9:46] games these days won't actually work on
[9:47] a hard drive at all cuz you need a
[9:49] decent readr speed just to have all the
[9:51] assets and things load in properly. But
[9:53] then because there's no moving parts,
[9:55] you won't have any like horrible
[9:56] vibrations or anything in your system.
[9:58] The downside is obviously they're a fair
[9:59] bit more expensive, but in this day and
[10:01] age, no one really installs Windows on a
[10:04] hard drive. I mean, you might have done
[10:05] like 10 years or so ago. Just grab
[10:07] yourself an SSD. They're much cheaper
[10:08] these days as well. This is a relatively
[10:10] speaking quite a high-end one. This is a
[10:12] Samsung 990 Pro, but typically you can
[10:14] get something decent for around about
[10:15] £60 or dollars or so. So, that can save
[10:17] you about £30, but these are often on
[10:19] sale and are pretty easily to recommend
[10:22] to be honest. Other thing to note as
[10:23] well is obviously the capacity of the
[10:24] drive. It's very easy to add more at a
[10:26] later date. So, I would always kind of
[10:28] go for a lower capacity drive and spend
[10:30] money on like other bits of your PC to
[10:32] again just get you the best possible
[10:33] performance. But particularly if you
[10:35] have like really slow internet, that's
[10:36] when having like a two or 4 TB SSD might
[10:39] come in handy so you don't need to keep
[10:40] like deleting games and reinstalling
[10:42] them. But a terabyte or two is going to
[10:44] be the best bet for most people. Then we
[10:46] also need our RAM. Random access memory
[10:48] is very easy for gaming PCs these days.
[10:51] Typically, everyone wants to go for 32
[10:53] GB. You want to get a speed of 6,000 MHz
[10:56] and you want to find one that says CL30
[10:58] on it. Now, that is the latency and
[11:00] obviously that is the speed. The faster
[11:02] the memory in theory, the better the CPU
[11:04] performance can be, but there's a sweet
[11:06] spot really where you start to spend
[11:07] more money and you don't really gain any
[11:10] extra performance. That's kind of over
[11:12] 6,000 MHz. And because most people are
[11:14] buying 6,000 MHz memory, the pricing on
[11:16] this is usually pretty good. I think at
[11:17] the time of filming this one was £110.
[11:20] You can get away with 16 gig, but it
[11:22] should be advised that pretty much all
[11:23] PCs these days are DDR5. So, if you have
[11:26] older memory that says DDR4 on it, you
[11:29] can't carry this across. You can't put
[11:31] it in this system and upgrade it. Sadly,
[11:33] it's not going to work. So, you will
[11:34] have to buy some new DDR5 RAM. Oh, and
[11:37] then I can't believe we left this this
[11:38] long. The graphics card. Obviously, the
[11:40] most exciting bit of any gaming PC and
[11:43] always the thing that you should pump as
[11:44] much money in to as possible. I mean,
[11:46] the best way for choosing PC parts is to
[11:48] pick a graphics card first, then find a
[11:50] CPU that will kind of pair with it. You
[11:52] want to make sure that the frame rates
[11:53] of the two kind of line up really, so
[11:55] again, you're not spending far too much
[11:56] money on one and then not enough on the
[11:58] other. But with the graphics card, you
[11:59] do also need to be aware that obviously
[12:01] you can buy an AMD or an Nvidia GPU.
[12:03] They typically vary in the sense that
[12:05] Nvidia has better software, but they
[12:07] often charge a price premium. And in the
[12:08] case of the RTX 5070, you don't actually
[12:11] get as much VRAM on that. you get a 12
[12:13] GB VRAM buffer, which again probably
[12:16] sounds a little bit confusing. The cheat
[12:17] sheet way of knowing is that an 8 GB
[12:20] card should be okay for 1080p. 12 gig
[12:22] should be fine for 1440 or quad HD
[12:24] gaming and then 16 gig for 4K. However,
[12:27] that's not like an absolute. And the
[12:29] problem is that a lot of graphics cards
[12:30] these days are coming with 8 GB of VRAM,
[12:33] so things like the 50/50 or the 5060 for
[12:36] instance. But then that already means
[12:37] you're having to turn down settings
[12:39] today when you bought the graphics card
[12:41] because you've got enough power to run
[12:43] the games, let's say, at the frame rate
[12:45] and the settings that you want, but you
[12:46] don't have enough memory or VRAM on the
[12:48] card itself. And obviously, this is only
[12:50] going to get worse over time. So, we
[12:52] don't actually recommend most people go
[12:53] for an 8 GB card unless you really are
[12:55] on a budget or maybe you're getting
[12:56] something used, for instance. That's not
[12:58] to say you absolutely categorically
[13:00] should not do it, but it's definitely
[13:02] worth spending a little bit more to buy
[13:03] like a 16 GB graphics card. So, this one
[13:05] is a 5060 Ti. It comes in eight and 16.
[13:08] We would always recommend people get the
[13:10] 16 cuz ultimately this is a card that's
[13:12] going to last a lot longer. Remember
[13:13] what I said I was going to give you a
[13:14] quick overview of all these components.
[13:16] Well, I've been a lot more thorough than
[13:18] I thought I was going to be. Hopefully,
[13:19] it's useful. But definitely with the
[13:20] GPU, if you don't watch anything else,
[13:22] watch this video up here that explains
[13:24] how to buy a graphics card because
[13:25] there's so much more to think about and
[13:27] it's the most important thing in your
[13:28] gaming PC. But last, but certainly not
[13:31] least, we have this, the power supply.
[13:33] And I'll be honest, it's pretty boring,
[13:35] but it is really important. This
[13:36] essentially gets your mains electricity
[13:38] and then converts it to the voltages
[13:39] that all of the different components
[13:41] needs. Now, the easiest way to buy this
[13:43] is actually just to go on your graphics
[13:45] card specification sheet online, and
[13:47] this will give you a minimum PSU
[13:48] requirement. And this will tell you what
[13:50] nine out of 10, probably more, uh,
[13:53] people should be buying essentially. So,
[13:54] if this says you need a 650 W power
[13:56] supply, you can get a 650 and everything
[13:59] should work because this is like going
[14:01] to assume that you've got like a really
[14:02] powerful CPU. So, it's giving you a
[14:03] little bit headroom. So, you can get
[14:05] away with something smaller. But
[14:06] actually, for most people, I recommend
[14:07] doing the opposite and to go for
[14:09] something a little bit oversp spec. So,
[14:11] if it says 650, maybe get a 750. If it
[14:13] says 750, get an 850. And the reason for
[14:15] this is just because chances are you're
[14:18] probably going to upgrade your system at
[14:19] a later date to a new graphics card. And
[14:21] usually you end up spending a little bit
[14:23] more on that component. And if you have
[14:24] to buy a new power supply again just to
[14:26] accommodate it is pretty frustrating and
[14:28] there's not often that much difference
[14:30] maybe like 30 $40 uh between a 750 and
[14:33] an 850 for example. But it is a genuine
[14:35] mistake that a lot of people make is
[14:37] that they go out and buy like a really
[14:38] high-end power supply that they don't
[14:40] need and again then they have to maybe
[14:41] step down to a cheaper CPU or a cheaper
[14:44] GPU to compensate. So buy the right
[14:46] power supply but if you've got a little
[14:48] bit extra budget then yes step it up by
[14:50] 100 W would be my advice. Oh, and then
[14:52] ladies and gentlemen, I think we are now
[14:55] ready to actually get started. You
[14:56] probably noticed though how I haven't
[14:58] mentioned these, which are some extra
[15:00] fans because these obviously are not
[15:01] vital to your gaming PC. Most cases will
[15:04] actually come with some as standard.
[15:05] This is actually my favorite case. This
[15:07] is the NV5 V2. And as you can see, it
[15:09] doesn't come with any. So, we are going
[15:11] to add some. But the biggest mistake
[15:13] that a lot of people make with a gaming
[15:14] PC is to be honest, it's buying things
[15:16] like this. Now, to be clear, this is a
[15:18] good product. I like these. They're very
[15:20] good fans. But these fans cost more than
[15:22] the case for a pack of three fans. I
[15:24] know they're going to look great. I know
[15:26] they're easily controllable and we'll be
[15:27] using them today. But if you're on a
[15:30] budget or you're really just trying to
[15:31] maximize FPS, I would advise going for
[15:33] some cheaper fans and just turning them
[15:35] down. It might not look quite so pretty.
[15:37] But again, you're going to be looking at
[15:38] your monitor anyway and getting a higher
[15:40] frame rate. So, the two packs of fans
[15:42] that we have here today cost around
[15:43] about £220. So, it's very easy to take a
[15:46] lot of money off this rig uh just by
[15:47] going for cheaper fans or not even
[15:49] necessarily populating all of them. I
[15:51] mean, you could see what thermals you're
[15:52] going to get. I probably wouldn't
[15:53] recommend it, but obviously you will
[15:55] have a CPU cooler in here that will be
[15:56] moving air around. So, you might find
[15:58] that you don't actually need anything,
[16:00] but you can get fans quite cheap for
[16:01] like $10 $15 each and just get a couple
[16:04] and you know, you'd be fine. Other
[16:05] reason as well that I wanted to use
[16:06] these is just to show you that they come
[16:08] in different flavors. So, these are
[16:09] LX120s RGB and then this one, you notice
[16:12] has that R in the name. Now, that stands
[16:14] for reverse blade. If you're going for
[16:15] high-end fans that have got like a
[16:17] pretty side and an ugly side, then
[16:19] because obviously it's only going to be
[16:20] on one side of the fan, uh sometimes you
[16:22] need to buy R or reverse blade just so
[16:25] they look right in your rig. So, for
[16:27] example, here we're going to use this
[16:29] bit, this side as an intake. And for
[16:32] most fans, that would mean you'd see the
[16:33] back of the fan. So, that's why you want
[16:35] the reverse blades. So, the reverse side
[16:37] is the pretty bit. Got that? I mean, if
[16:40] you're not building a gaming PC without
[16:41] reverse blade fans. Oh, are you even a
[16:44] real gamer? That's a trick question. The
[16:45] answer is yes. Oh, but now, ladies and
[16:48] gentlemen, comes the bit where the party
[16:49] really gets started. The time to build
[16:51] has begun. And there's not necessarily a
[16:53] right or wrong order or way to actually
[16:56] put everything together, but there's
[16:57] definitely quite a few things you can do
[16:58] just to make your life easier to speed
[17:00] it up and just to save you a mess and a
[17:02] headache. The first one really is to
[17:03] make sure you're building in an area
[17:04] with lots of light. There's some tiny
[17:06] little labels you're going to have to
[17:07] look at throughout this. And if it's
[17:09] especially if it's inside the black
[17:11] case, if you've in a dark gingy space,
[17:13] it's going to make it a lot more
[17:14] difficult. You'd be like flying around
[17:15] with a torch. Not ideal. The other thing
[17:17] is just to make sure the space that
[17:18] you're building on is large. We're going
[17:20] to be opening quite a lot of boxes, some
[17:22] of them all at the same time. So, you
[17:24] don't want to kind of end up with like
[17:25] some cables in the wrong box or screws
[17:27] going back to the wrong place. It can
[17:28] get confusing. It's a nice big area. And
[17:30] as you open a box, once you're done with
[17:32] it, do put it away neatly. I know I'm a
[17:34] bit guilty of not always doing that, but
[17:36] practice what I preach, not necessarily
[17:38] what I do, but I'm going to be on best
[17:40] behavior in this video, so don't worry
[17:41] about it. The other thing, and I think a
[17:43] lot of people would be kind of making a
[17:45] beline towards their case, and this
[17:46] would be the first thing that they would
[17:48] be getting ready, but we don't actually
[17:49] need to touch this at all until we've
[17:51] got our motherboard ready because it's a
[17:52] lot easier to start on top of the box
[17:54] cuz we can access everything. We can see
[17:57] everything. And then the other thing as
[17:59] well is if you can build with someone
[18:01] else there, obviously ideally someone
[18:02] that's done it before, but even two
[18:04] people that haven't done it, it's going
[18:05] to be a lot easier because you're both
[18:07] going to be able to see things that the
[18:08] other person hasn't seen. You can double
[18:10] check the connections and if someone
[18:11] does something wrong, there's obviously
[18:12] a higher chance that someone will notice
[18:13] and go, "Oh, no, no, you've put that in
[18:14] the wrong place." We walk you through
[18:16] some of the easy mistakes, as I say,
[18:18] throughout this video, including the
[18:20] ones that I did for my first ever gaming
[18:21] PC. You'll notice that this is in quite
[18:23] a loud bag. This is an anti-static bag.
[18:26] And again, I've not really had any
[18:28] issues with damaged components. But if
[18:31] you get something out of an anti-static
[18:32] bag and you ever need to put it like
[18:34] back away, put it back in the bag. Don't
[18:36] leave it on the bag cuz that that's not
[18:38] going to do anything. But this is what
[18:39] your motherboard looks like. And again,
[18:41] will come in different sizes. This is
[18:42] the full size ATX. A microATX kind of
[18:45] cuts off here. So it's like 2/3 of a
[18:47] board, whereas ITX would literally just
[18:49] be this here. So again, most people want
[18:51] a fulls size board, full size case.
[18:53] Certainly for your first build, it makes
[18:55] everything a lot easier. But the main
[18:56] areas you do need to be aware of. You
[18:58] can see I'm you are able to handle it.
[19:00] Don't obviously throw it around, but
[19:02] don't be too scared to kind of like pick
[19:03] it up and look at bits and bobs. As long
[19:05] as you don't drop it, you should be
[19:06] fine. This is the really delicate area
[19:08] underneath this cover. This is where
[19:09] your CPU is going to go. It will have
[19:11] some pins. If you touch any of these
[19:13] pins or dare I say accidentally drop
[19:15] something on the pins, there's a high
[19:17] chance your motherboard can break. This
[19:18] is by far the most delicate bit of the
[19:20] whole build. Uh this is where our RAM is
[19:22] going to go. You'll see we have four
[19:23] slots on this, but again, smaller
[19:24] motherboards sometimes have two, which
[19:26] is a bit annoying if you want to upgrade
[19:27] it at a later date. While you're here, I
[19:29] would actually recommend that you open
[19:30] up slots two and four. These are the
[19:33] ones that we're going to use. It would
[19:34] be very tempting to kind of put them
[19:36] directly next to the CPU. You'd actually
[19:38] be getting half the speed if you do
[19:39] that. So, open them up. Now, you want
[19:41] two and four. This is where your
[19:43] graphics card is going to go in this
[19:44] slot here. This is called a PCIe slot.
[19:46] They have different speeds. Currently,
[19:48] we're on PCI generation 5. Now, you'll
[19:50] probably not notice this, but this is
[19:52] actually a heat sink for the SSD. This
[19:55] is where our drive is going to sit.
[19:56] We're going to open this up and it can
[19:58] go under there. But then we also have a
[20:00] few other bays here as well for extra
[20:01] drives if we want to upgrade it in the
[20:04] future. But generally speaking, you
[20:05] always want to use this top slot as it
[20:07] should be the fastest speed available.
[20:09] Editor Cole should now cut to the lovely
[20:10] B-roll that we took earlier of the IO or
[20:12] the input output. And this shows all of
[20:14] the ports that we have on this
[20:16] particular motherboard. And you may
[20:18] notice as well that we have Wi-Fi.
[20:20] Remember I said earlier, newer
[20:21] motherboards with more bandwidth
[20:23] typically have a better Wi-Fi standard.
[20:25] But this only really matters if you've
[20:26] got a router that's the same standard or
[20:28] it's not going to necessarily be any
[20:30] faster. But a lot of cheaper
[20:31] motherboards don't have Wi-Fi at all. So
[20:33] I would highly recommend that if you are
[20:35] going to use Wi-Fi that you get a
[20:37] motherboard that's a little bit more
[20:38] expensive that has it from the off
[20:39] because otherwise you have to buy an
[20:40] add-in card and by the time you've done
[20:42] that it might even end up more expensive
[20:44] than just buying a decent motherboard in
[20:46] the first place. Depending on what and
[20:47] how you're going to use your
[20:48] motherboards, you might also need some
[20:50] of the other bits inside the box. This
[20:51] is the Wi-Fi antenna. This is going to
[20:53] connect to these little gold connections
[20:55] here. But underneath this, you'll
[20:57] probably find that you're going to have
[20:58] a manual. And if you've ever read a
[21:00] manual in your life, I mean, we're only
[21:02] talking like five, six pages. It's
[21:03] probably this because this is going to
[21:05] walk you through where to plug
[21:06] everything in. Uh the dos and the
[21:08] don'ts. And if you do ever have a
[21:09] problem, if you have like a error, maybe
[21:11] it's a LED, maybe it's like a number on
[21:13] the motherboard depending on what you
[21:14] buy. This should tell you how to fix the
[21:17] problem. So, I don't often need a look
[21:19] at this, but even these days, sometimes
[21:20] if I get a weird bug or error, it's
[21:22] always worth checking in your
[21:23] motherboard. Again, everything's very
[21:25] small as well. All the text is small on
[21:26] the motherboard. It should be easier to
[21:28] read on this. That aside, though, you
[21:30] also find you get some like welcome
[21:31] stuff that obviously you really don't
[21:32] need. Uh, these are SATA cables. These
[21:34] are going to be used if you have like an
[21:36] older SSD or like a hard drive or
[21:38] something. Chances are you probably
[21:39] already got these though if you're
[21:40] moving them from an old rig. But if you
[21:42] buy a hard drive, you will need one of
[21:43] these plugged in for data. We've got
[21:45] some cable ties. Be useful to get
[21:47] everything tidy. Got an SSD screw there.
[21:50] Couple of M.2 pads if you're using like
[21:52] the lower down slots and things. Thermal
[21:55] pad. Most of these things you're not
[21:57] going to need cuz I mean, case in point,
[21:58] I didn't actually know what was in this
[21:59] box. And I've been using this
[22:01] motherboard for about 3 years. But let's
[22:02] close this up, grab our motherboard, and
[22:05] then properly get our party started. And
[22:07] as I say, it's going to be a little bit
[22:09] nerve-wracking, but hopefully you will
[22:11] have fun. And if at any point you get
[22:13] stressed, I've said this a million times
[22:14] and it always sounds like I'm like
[22:16] making some British joke. I'm dead
[22:18] serious. Take a time out. Just go and
[22:20] sit somewhere for like 15 minutes with
[22:21] like a cup of tea or a cup of coffee if
[22:23] you really want to do that, just cuz it
[22:25] should calm you down because it's very
[22:27] stressful. And if something isn't
[22:29] plugging into the bit that you think it
[22:30] is, or maybe like you're getting some
[22:32] weird boot errors or something if your
[22:34] PC is not working, sometimes it's just
[22:36] nice to have a clear head. just take a
[22:37] time out. I promise every single time I
[22:40] get in that situation and I do it, I'm
[22:41] so thankful that I have, but hopefully
[22:44] you shouldn't need to do that because it
[22:45] is actually pretty straightforward. So,
[22:46] the first thing we're going to do is
[22:48] actually install our CPU. So, remember
[22:49] this is our cover. We don't need to take
[22:51] this off. This will automatically remove
[22:53] when we put our chip inside. So, what we
[22:55] can do is grab our Ryzen 7, and then
[22:57] with what I'd describe as a normal
[22:59] amount of force, just gently open this
[23:01] up, leave it to one side for a second,
[23:04] and then we're going to have to lift
[23:06] this little cover or this retention arm
[23:09] like so. And then we're going to
[23:10] actually lift up the flap here. And this
[23:12] is where obviously all of the pins are
[23:14] now exposed. Please don't drop anything
[23:16] in there. Please don't touch it. It
[23:18] would be so incredibly sad cuz you'd be
[23:19] saying bye-bye to your rig. And you do
[23:22] not want to do that. But the good news
[23:23] is this is pretty much the only ultra
[23:25] sensitive bit of the whole process. You
[23:27] can pick up your processor and you can
[23:29] have a look at it. I wouldn't advise
[23:31] touching it any more than you need to,
[23:32] but you see like you can and it's not
[23:34] going to spontaneously combust. But
[23:36] definitely try to be a little bit more
[23:37] careful of the backside of it because
[23:39] you don't want oils and things to go on
[23:40] here. But again, it's not the absolute
[23:42] end of the world if it does. But this is
[23:44] by far the most sensitive bit. Be very
[23:47] careful. But just drop this into place.
[23:49] So you can see here it's almost in, but
[23:51] that's okay. I just gave it a slight
[23:53] nudge and then it will kind of clip
[23:55] itself into position. To get this secure
[23:57] though, obviously we need to push this
[23:59] flap downwards. Kind of catch it a
[24:02] little bit with this lever. And then
[24:04] you'll notice this starts to ping off.
[24:06] That is according to plan. You just part
[24:09] this back. Make sure that this does then
[24:12] remove and make sure that this is
[24:13] properly inside. Carl can show the clip
[24:15] now of the only time I haven't managed
[24:18] to do this properly. You lift up your
[24:19] motherboard and this will happen. True
[24:21] stories. Could have just rushed. True
[24:23] stories. Could have just rushed.
[24:26] How did that happen? Which I'll be
[24:28] honest, wasn't very fun. And it won't be
[24:29] very fun if it's your CPU. So, get it
[24:32] secure. With that complete, then as I
[24:33] say, just tidy as you go. But I'm really
[24:35] pleased to say that the most sensitive
[24:37] bit has been undertaken. So,
[24:38] congratulations. Give yourself a pat on
[24:40] the back. But now we can press on to
[24:41] some easier stuff. So, we're going to
[24:43] move on to the RAM or the random access
[24:45] memory. And you're going to get two
[24:46] different sticks, two different dims.
[24:48] You can use just one, but you'll be
[24:49] getting half the speed. But unless
[24:51] you're buying a really high-end like
[24:52] thread ripper system, if you buy four,
[24:54] it's not going to increase the speed. It
[24:56] will just increase the capacity. Now,
[24:58] remember, as I say, this is DDR5. This
[24:59] is a DDR5 motherboard. Make sure that
[25:01] they match or it's physically not going
[25:03] to fit, and you'll be very sad. But it's
[25:04] very straightforward in these slots that
[25:06] we've already opened up. So, two and
[25:07] four. Just make sure that this lines up
[25:09] with this little notch here. DDR5, it's
[25:12] almost in the middle, which is a bit
[25:13] annoying. So, you might have to give it
[25:14] a little wiggle until you actually get
[25:16] it in place. And then obviously pick up
[25:18] the second stick. This one should be
[25:20] easier because you know which way it
[25:21] actually goes in. It's very satisfying
[25:24] actually plugging in RAM. You get that
[25:25] proper thud. But the important bit is to
[25:27] make sure that these have actually gone
[25:29] back all of the way. Sometimes they'll
[25:30] be on the top and the bottom. This one
[25:32] just has them on the top. So a dead
[25:34] giveaway if it's not inserted properly.
[25:35] It might look something like that. Look,
[25:37] which you might not notice, but you do
[25:39] need to give it a proper push until that
[25:41] clicks in all the way. It's subtle, but
[25:43] if it's not pushed in all the way, then
[25:45] your PC might not boot and you might be
[25:46] really confused. And it's also sometimes
[25:48] confusing because whilst it should say
[25:50] RAM error, sometimes it doesn't actually
[25:52] say RAM error, it might say like CPU or
[25:54] something. You like, why why is my CPU
[25:55] not working?
[25:56] >> But it's actually just the RAM. But that
[25:58] that's rare. As I say, as long as you've
[26:00] plugged everything in properly, you
[26:01] should be fine. Then we can press on to
[26:04] our SSD. And again, this one's quite
[26:05] high-end. You can go for a cheaper one
[26:07] that will give you very similar I was
[26:09] going to say very sim similar
[26:10] performance. I mean, it is similar
[26:11] enough anyway. But in terms of what
[26:13] you're actually going to notice when
[26:14] you're using your PC and loading games,
[26:17] yes, definitely very similar. But we can
[26:19] just open this one up. Look. And you
[26:21] will notice that this thing is
[26:23] absolutely tiny. It always blows my mind
[26:25] actually just how small these are. I
[26:28] mean, it's kind of like the size of your
[26:29] index finger, which is pretty cool. But
[26:31] this is the point where you're going to
[26:32] need to grab that smaller size
[26:33] screwdriver. And we're just going to
[26:35] open this up. Look, just by unscrewing
[26:38] these two screws. This should then
[26:41] remove. And don't look at this, guys.
[26:43] This is the thermal pad. Remember, we
[26:45] had a spare one in the box. This is why
[26:47] because I've used this board like 10,
[26:49] 11, 12 times, and this is getting more
[26:52] and more mangled. But yours will look a
[26:54] lot nicer than this. And we'll have a
[26:55] little peel. You just take this off. And
[26:57] then this thermal pad just helps the
[26:58] heat go from the SSD into the heat sink.
[27:00] And then obviously the fans in your
[27:02] system will then help help to kind of
[27:04] blow that heat away. But make sure you
[27:06] take that peel off just so you're
[27:07] actually getting it to do something.
[27:08] then you can pick up your SSD. Some of
[27:11] them will be double-sided. This is more
[27:12] down to the capacity. This is one
[27:14] terabyte, so it's not. But it's worth
[27:16] noting that if you're having a like
[27:18] really high capacity SSD, may well be
[27:20] worth going for one that actually has a
[27:21] heat sink built into it because then
[27:23] you're covering both sides of the SSD.
[27:25] But some high-end motherboards,
[27:26] especially newer ones, do have
[27:27] double-sided heat sinks these days. But
[27:29] this literally just pushes down. Just
[27:32] need to move this catch. Look. And then
[27:34] move that so that it's secured into
[27:36] position. And then we can pick this up
[27:37] again. And then just gently lay this
[27:39] over those holes and then screw that
[27:41] back into position. And then once you've
[27:44] done that, the good news is that your
[27:45] motherboard is actually pretty much
[27:46] ready to go in your chassis depending on
[27:48] whether you're using an air cooler or
[27:50] using a all-in-one liquid. But before we
[27:53] do that, I think it's going to be a lot
[27:54] more useful to kind of walk you through
[27:56] the motherboard and what you're looking
[27:57] at really and what you're going to need
[27:58] to connect things to so you understand
[28:00] it. And the best way of doing this
[28:01] obviously would be to look in your
[28:02] motherboard manual if there's any name
[28:05] or anything there that you don't kind of
[28:06] know if you need it or what it does. Uh
[28:08] that should tell you. But for a little
[28:10] bit of quick insight essentially, you'll
[28:12] notice obviously there's a lot of stuff
[28:13] here. So we've talked about the CPU
[28:15] socket, the RAM, the M.2, and then these
[28:17] PCIe expansion slots. So this one is
[28:19] where your graphics card is going to go.
[28:21] Uh but if you got like a Wi-Fi card or
[28:23] like a capture card for gaming or
[28:25] something like that, uh then it will
[28:27] connect to one of these ones here.
[28:28] They're different sizes which have
[28:29] different speeds. Uh but there's loads
[28:32] of these tiny little pins dotted
[28:33] throughout that you kind of do need to
[28:35] use. So the most important one, well
[28:38] most important two I'd say are these two
[28:41] up here. These are for your CPU fans. So
[28:43] when you connect your cooler, you're
[28:45] going to connect to these. If
[28:46] something's not connected, your PC uh
[28:48] won't usually boot into Windows. It will
[28:50] give you an error because it doesn't
[28:51] want to cook itself. So this will send
[28:53] power to your fan and then the fan will
[28:56] spin up. And the clever thing about it
[28:57] is is that it can kind of read the CPU
[28:59] temperature and adjust the speed
[29:01] accordingly because you don't want your
[29:02] fans to be running 100% all of the time.
[29:04] Could be really annoying. It's like the
[29:06] compressor in your fridge, right? If
[29:07] your fridge is making that really loud
[29:09] noise all of the time, be pretty
[29:10] annoying, but it only does that every
[29:12] now and then when it needs to. Now, the
[29:14] other thing is down the bottom here.
[29:16] This is where we're going to plug in our
[29:17] power switch to the case. So, this is
[29:20] obviously what makes this button turn
[29:22] your PC on. And if you don't connect
[29:24] this up, the buttons quite literally not
[29:26] going to do anything. All it is is a
[29:27] little gate essentially. So when you
[29:28] press it down, the signal can go from
[29:30] one pin to the other. So if you're ever
[29:32] testing whether the button on your case
[29:34] uh works or not, you can just grab a
[29:35] little screwdriver and then where are
[29:37] they? These these two here. You can just
[29:39] press these together and then in theory
[29:41] your PC should turn on. That's
[29:42] essentially what the button does. But
[29:44] you notice that there's quite a few
[29:45] different things here as well. Typically
[29:47] you won't be using like the right of
[29:49] this. You just use uh these four here on
[29:51] the left. So, you've got your power
[29:52] switch, power LEDs, uh, hard drive LEDs,
[29:55] and then your reset switch. One of the
[29:57] most common things, and the first thing
[29:58] that I did in my first ever gaming PC,
[30:01] don't be ashamed if this happens to you,
[30:03] is that I plugged my power switch into
[30:05] the power LEDs. So, sure enough, when I
[30:07] turned on the PC, nothing happened.
[30:09] That's when I got really upset. That's
[30:11] when I needed to go and take a timeout.
[30:12] I was like, "Oh, why didn't I just buy a
[30:14] Dell or an Alienware?" But, it was
[30:16] actually a very easy thing to remedy.
[30:17] So, yes, don't get your power switch
[30:19] confused with your power LEDs. But all
[30:21] of the text here you see is very small
[30:22] which is why I recommend the motherboard
[30:23] manual. But then most rigs you're also
[30:26] going to be plugging in more fans.
[30:27] They're called chef fan chassis fan. We
[30:29] also have these RGB headers as well. So
[30:32] you've got a four pin which is kind of
[30:33] old school fans or old school callers.
[30:35] But most of them are these three pin
[30:37] addressables. So we've got one here and
[30:39] then two more down the bottom. But this
[30:40] is going to vary depending on the
[30:41] motherboard. So if you buy a lower-end
[30:42] motherboard, it might have less of these
[30:44] or potentially none. It was all down to
[30:46] the board. So obviously check before you
[30:48] buy anything. You also have USB. These
[30:50] are USB 2.0, so they're slow, but fine
[30:53] for most fan controllers or if you're
[30:55] using like a fancy cooler uh and your
[30:57] motherboard can control it, then they're
[30:58] going to plug in down here. We've got
[31:00] much faster USB, and this is usually for
[31:02] the front panel of your chassis. You've
[31:03] got USBC. Annoyingly, this actually
[31:05] isn't a USBC port, which would be
[31:07] better, but that turns into USBC. And
[31:09] then this is the USB 3. So, that blue
[31:11] one on the front of your chassis uh will
[31:13] plug in down here. And then this one
[31:15] here, that's called AAFP. I guess that
[31:18] stands for analog audio front panel, but
[31:20] most motherboards it will say HD audio.
[31:23] Uh, this is if you're going to plug in
[31:24] an old school pair of headphones or an
[31:26] analog headset into your case. Again,
[31:28] this is what sends that sound signal
[31:30] between the case and the board. Uh, you
[31:32] also have some SATA ports. You're
[31:34] getting less and less on new boards as
[31:36] well. So, if you're plugging in a hard
[31:37] drive or again using like an old school
[31:39] SSD, uh, these will plug in down here.
[31:41] But do remember that those need to be
[31:43] powered as well, not just data. You have
[31:45] two cables for those. one for the
[31:47] motherboard and then one to actually
[31:49] power it up. Oh, and speaking of power,
[31:51] last things last. We also have our power
[31:53] connections. This is an ATX. This is
[31:55] very big. You can't miss it. This is
[31:57] going to connect to the power supply.
[31:58] And then your CPU also takes power up
[32:00] here at the top left. Now, for most
[32:03] systems, and emphasis on most, you only
[32:05] need to plug in one eight pin. You'll
[32:08] often find that you have one eight and
[32:10] then one four or eight. Well, then
[32:12] another eight for two. This is usually
[32:14] only for high-end overclocking or like
[32:16] really high-end CPUs like I don't know
[32:18] 14900K or something where it needs more
[32:20] power. I'm not saying here that you
[32:21] should only plug one in, but if you're
[32:23] doing a budget friendly build and your
[32:25] power supply only has one cable that can
[32:27] go to it, don't worry about it. I can't
[32:29] remember the exact figure, so if I can
[32:30] get editor Carl to note it down, but I
[32:32] think you can do like 150 160 watts or
[32:35] something uh through a single 8 pin. And
[32:37] most CPUs are anywhere between 65 and
[32:39] about 120 really, especially for Ryzen
[32:41] CPUs, which is why I say you should be
[32:43] fine with these. Your PC would still
[32:44] boot. It's just potentially you won't be
[32:46] able to overclock it as far, but it's
[32:47] good practice to plug in both. So, that
[32:49] in a nutshell should be everything that
[32:50] you need to know. But now comes the time
[32:52] to actually get our cooling installed.
[32:54] So, I'm going to end up with an
[32:55] all-in-one liquid cooler inside this.
[32:58] But, as I say, most people I think
[32:59] you're going to want to go for one of
[33:00] these, which is an air cooler just to
[33:02] maximize the bang for buck and the
[33:03] amount of FPS you're getting for the
[33:05] money that you'd spend. There's no doubt
[33:07] in my mind if I was building a personal
[33:09] gaming PC like this for me tomorrow. It
[33:11] would be with this cooler, right? I know
[33:13] all-in- ones look better, especially if
[33:15] you're getting like a pre-build or
[33:16] something. I should say as well,
[33:17] actually, if you do want to grab a PC
[33:19] build, then the sponsor of this video,
[33:20] Overclockers UK, have loads of
[33:22] pre-builds. So, if you're watching this
[33:24] and you you think, I just don't want to
[33:25] do it, then have a look at Overclockers
[33:27] UK's pre-builds as well, cuz as I say,
[33:29] you've got loads of options and they
[33:30] send it to you. Some of them, I assume,
[33:32] next day, but depends whether they have
[33:33] to build them. The point I was trying to
[33:34] make is that if you go for a pre-build,
[33:36] then actually allin-one does make more
[33:37] sense because it's less likely to get uh
[33:39] damaged in shipping. But then I would
[33:40] guess that's not really your fault
[33:42] anyway. So it shouldn't make too much uh
[33:44] difference to you. But this is what an
[33:45] air cooler typically looks like. A lot
[33:47] bigger than a stock one. I'll see if I
[33:49] can find one. And I mean, look at that.
[33:50] That is that is tiny. The heat sink on
[33:53] that, the amount of metal that the heat
[33:55] has to absorb into essentially is tiny.
[33:58] And then you've got this really small
[34:00] fan on top. So look, when you do a side
[34:01] by side, there's no competition really,
[34:04] is there? And what this is designed to
[34:06] do is to dissipate heat and mean you can
[34:08] put more power into your CPU and do so
[34:10] while having less noise essentially. So
[34:12] this is not a very good solution, but is
[34:14] free and comes with certain CPUs. This
[34:16] for about £35 actually makes your end
[34:18] user experience, which is just a much
[34:20] quieter, nicer, and better looking PC.
[34:23] So well worth it. But to actually get
[34:25] this cooler installed is worth bearing
[34:26] in mind that every single caller is
[34:28] going to be slightly different. They
[34:30] often use the same mounting mechanism
[34:32] because you've got these four physical
[34:33] screws here. Uh this is actually what we
[34:35] call the default AM5 mount where some
[34:38] callers you will literally hook onto
[34:39] these and then it kind of secures down
[34:41] into place. But most callers don't
[34:43] actually do that which is a little bit
[34:45] weird especially bear in mind a lot of
[34:46] AMD's own like stock callers also don't
[34:49] use this mechanism. So I don't really
[34:50] know why they bother. Uh but you've got
[34:51] these bits of plastic and don't worry
[34:53] this is normal depending on obviously
[34:55] what you're installing. You just want to
[34:57] remove these four screws here like so.
[34:59] And then that should remove. Don't lose
[35:02] these just in case you change your
[35:03] cooler and you might need it
[35:06] essentially. It's just good practice.
[35:07] Just put it in your motherboard box.
[35:08] Just do this with both halves. Then
[35:10] you're going to want to go to your
[35:11] cooler box and pick up the accessories
[35:14] bag that will have a load of screws and
[35:16] some brackets and things and look a
[35:18] little bit like this. Look. But the
[35:19] thing to remember is that typically a
[35:21] third of what's in there is what you
[35:23] need because you have different mounting
[35:24] solutions for different size sockets. So
[35:27] the mounting solution for AMD is
[35:29] different to Intel. And if you buy like
[35:31] a Thread Ripper CPU or you buy like a
[35:33] really high-end X299 CPU from yesterday
[35:35] year that has different physical sizes,
[35:38] which is why you need different physical
[35:39] mounts in order to actually get your
[35:41] cooler to fit. But I think everything
[35:43] here actually I've pre-sorted to just
[35:46] the AMD stuff. So you've got these
[35:48] little brackets here. The best way of
[35:50] working it out if you're unsure is just
[35:51] to kind of line them up as they fit over
[35:53] the holes. You're almost certainly onto
[35:55] a winner look. But once again, whilst
[35:57] this is absolutely going to vary
[35:58] depending on the cooler that you get,
[36:00] with this particular one, we just want
[36:01] to put these little spacers on top and
[36:04] they look different depending on the
[36:06] brands, but most cooling solutions you
[36:08] have to do something similar. Then
[36:09] you'll get some brackets and again
[36:11] varies depending on the brand, but most
[36:14] brands install this way. So, let's get
[36:17] this screwed down with this little nubb
[36:19] in look facing upwards because the
[36:21] cooler is going to then screw into that
[36:23] and then get safe and secure. If you're
[36:24] wondering how tight you should be
[36:26] screwing things like this, by the way,
[36:27] it's going to it sounds obvious, but
[36:29] it's like the right amount of tightness.
[36:30] So, obviously you screw down till you
[36:32] get a bit of resistance. Then you can go
[36:33] slightly more and then you stop. You
[36:35] don't want to be hammering down until
[36:37] there's absolutely nothing more that you
[36:39] can do. It's not necessarily going to
[36:40] break everything, but it would almost
[36:42] certainly break something if you do
[36:43] that. So, if in doubt, keep it. I don't
[36:46] want to say loose, but just don't go ham
[36:48] on it. But let's repeat with the other
[36:49] side. And then comes the really fun bit
[36:51] that a lot of people get a bit nervous
[36:52] about, but you really don't need to be.
[36:54] It's thermal compound. You get two
[36:56] typical uh ways of installing this if
[36:58] you like. So, some coolers, probably
[37:00] like the Corsair one, has it
[37:01] pre-applied. This is easier because you
[37:04] don't need to do anything. You just make
[37:05] sure that you don't kind of accidentally
[37:07] remove it when you're installing it, but
[37:08] you just drop it down into place. It
[37:09] will be on the underside of your cooler
[37:11] and then you can screw it in and then
[37:12] you know you've got the right quantity,
[37:14] the right spread, all of this stuff. But
[37:15] I prefer it like this where they give
[37:16] you a little tube and you have to add
[37:18] this yourself because it just means that
[37:19] you've got multiple installations. So if
[37:21] you ever want to take your cooler off
[37:23] and put a new CPU in, you don't have to
[37:25] buy new thermal compound. But you can
[37:27] see this is the last actually of this
[37:30] stuff that I have in the tube. That's
[37:32] probably the right amount. We say a
[37:33] small P-sized amount, but as long as
[37:35] you've got enough, you'll be fine. like
[37:38] don't go putting like crazy amounts on
[37:40] cuz it's not really going to make any
[37:41] difference. But if you forget the
[37:42] thermal compound, you'd certainly know
[37:44] about it. But we're just going to grab
[37:45] this. Look. And then we're going to
[37:47] gently lay that over those screws. Then
[37:50] we're going to screw to about 25% on one
[37:52] side, 50 on the other. And then kind of
[37:56] just alternate
[37:58] until it is safe and secure. You'll find
[38:01] that there's a fair bit of resistance.
[38:02] This one kind of just stops rather than
[38:04] kind of like letting you do a little bit
[38:06] more at a time. But then you can see we
[38:08] have our heat sink actually attached and
[38:10] then the heat from the CPU obviously
[38:12] will go up into the cooler. But in order
[38:14] for that to actually be expelled
[38:15] somewhere, obviously we need some fans.
[38:18] So these are the ones that you get as
[38:19] standard. Very important. Make sure that
[38:21] they're blowing the right way cuz
[38:22] obviously a fan will go like that. So if
[38:24] you plug it in like this, especially if
[38:27] you got two fans and you have them
[38:28] blowing in towards each other, uh that's
[38:31] not going to be very good for your
[38:33] thermals, is it? So, if you ever have uh
[38:35] significant problems and you can't work
[38:36] out what it is, check the orientation of
[38:39] your fans. But generally speaking, if
[38:40] you can see the label, it means it's
[38:42] blowing away from you. And you want to
[38:43] make sure all of your cables are
[38:45] actually at the bottom so they are nice
[38:46] and neat and out of the way. And on this
[38:49] cooler, it's really easy. So, they
[38:50] literally just push on like that. And
[38:54] then our cooler is installed. All we
[38:55] need to do is find these little cables
[38:58] here. These are our addressable RGB and
[39:01] our fan speed. So, we just need to find
[39:03] our CPU headers that you should be
[39:06] seeing from this lovely B-roll. And then
[39:08] just carefully plugging this in, look to
[39:11] this gray one. On some motherboards, to
[39:13] be fair, the gray is for like an
[39:14] allin-one pump, which is designed to be
[39:16] on all of the time so you know uh that
[39:18] your pump is running at the max speed
[39:20] essentially, but you can customize them
[39:21] in software. But the main thing is that
[39:23] they are actually plugged in. So, that's
[39:24] our fan. And then you can see these are
[39:26] daisy chained as well. So, the two fans
[39:28] are already connected together, but
[39:30] we've got three pins. So you just want
[39:31] to make sure that obviously the single
[39:33] pin is over the single pin. These are
[39:36] annoyingly fiddly. That should just go
[39:38] over like that. And then that would be
[39:40] your CPU cooler installed if you were
[39:42] going for a air cooler. And then this
[39:44] would obviously just drop into the PC
[39:46] and we can resume. But as I say, we're
[39:48] going for allin-one today. So let's get
[39:50] on with that. Which means I have to now
[39:52] take this off. But I can show you a
[39:53] quick trick actually while we're here,
[39:55] which is if you're unsure whether your
[39:56] CPU is making good contact with the
[39:59] cooler, then you can actually install
[40:01] it, take it off, and then have a look at
[40:04] this spread. Because as long as the
[40:06] thermal compound is covering most of the
[40:07] CPU, you know you've installed it
[40:09] properly. If you've got like some really
[40:10] obvious gaps, then it might be you
[40:12] haven't used enough paste or that
[40:14] there's not enough contact essentially
[40:16] between the cooler and the CPU. But it's
[40:18] worth remembering that when you turn it
[40:19] on and you get a bit of heat, this is
[40:20] going to help to just spread it just
[40:22] that little bit more. So, I wouldn't be
[40:23] worried about the fact that you're
[40:25] missing a little bit there, for
[40:26] instance. But in an ideal world, I
[40:27] probably would added a little bit more
[40:29] if I got a bigger tube. So, with that
[40:31] out of the way, we can then press on to
[40:33] our cooler. And it's worth remembering
[40:34] that we're not actually going to install
[40:36] this yet. We want to get our motherboard
[40:37] inside the case, but it's definitely
[40:39] worth grabbing the box now just to check
[40:41] how it mounts because if we need to say
[40:43] put these back on or if they were off
[40:46] and you needed to take them off and put
[40:47] some third party mount again, it's a lot
[40:49] easier to do this whilst the motherboard
[40:51] is here and we can clearly see and
[40:52] access everything before we put it in
[40:54] our case. But having said that, if you
[40:56] forget, it's not the end of the world.
[40:57] But this one is actually pretty easy to
[41:00] set up if I can remember correctly
[41:02] because a lot of modern ones you'll find
[41:03] that the fans are pre-installed to the
[41:05] radiator. And the mounting on this as
[41:07] well, it just screws directly into the
[41:09] socket. Remembered now, which is uh very
[41:11] very neat. But a lot of them you will
[41:12] have to like put some third party plate
[41:14] or something on the motherboard like we
[41:15] did with the air cooler. But I realize
[41:17] you're probably brand new to PC gaming.
[41:18] So, if you're wondering essentially what
[41:20] this is, how it works, it's a similar
[41:22] principle to a normal like air CPU
[41:24] cooler whereby the heat goes into the
[41:26] little pump unit that we have here, but
[41:29] there's actually a plate inside here and
[41:30] the water will run through it and then
[41:32] go through these tubes and then will be
[41:34] dumped in this radiator which obviously
[41:36] has a very large surface area and then
[41:38] the fans will blow through this and then
[41:40] it will go out or depending on your
[41:41] orientation into your chassis and then
[41:43] that process will then cool the water
[41:45] that will then go back down the tubes
[41:47] and then obviously it will repeat the
[41:48] process. These are great for a number of
[41:49] reasons. Firstly, I think most people
[41:51] agree they look better. You've not got
[41:52] like a huge mass or something on top of
[41:54] your CPU. It's also better for
[41:56] transportation as we've said, but also
[41:58] if you're going for like a really
[41:59] high-end system where you've got like a
[42:01] really big beefy graphics card, you got
[42:02] to remember if you're using an air
[42:04] cooler, quite often the graphics card
[42:05] will spit hot air directly out into uh
[42:08] the line of your air cooler, which then
[42:10] means that it's harder to actually get
[42:12] that to run cooly. So, it either run
[42:14] faster or potentially you might find
[42:16] that it actually can't keep up with all
[42:18] of this hot air and then your CPU clock
[42:20] speeds will be reduced because it's just
[42:22] getting too warm. Whereas, if you go for
[42:23] an all-in-one, you can just move that
[42:25] heat from here to either the top of the
[42:27] chassis or like the side or the front
[42:29] depending on the case that you're going
[42:30] for, which can be more optimal and just
[42:32] give you better temperatures throughout.
[42:33] As I say, it's very expensive and for
[42:36] most systems, I think an air cooler will
[42:37] be absolutely fine. But when you start
[42:39] talking, you know, like 5070 Ti, uh,
[42:42] 5080, 5090, that sort of stuff, yes,
[42:44] this really does start to kind of make a
[42:46] lot more sense. But, as I say, this one
[42:47] is incredibly easy to install. You just
[42:49] have these two little AMD brackets.
[42:51] Look, so you find your pump unit. Just
[42:53] slide these on top till they meet. And
[42:56] then you've got these four screw holes.
[42:57] Look, that will line up with those on
[42:59] the board, and we'll just go straight
[43:01] in. Happy days. No third party mount
[43:03] required. So, the good news with that
[43:05] then is that we can just gently part
[43:06] that to one side for a second. And now
[43:08] we're ready to put this inside our case.
[43:10] Very exciting stuff. And we haven't
[43:12] talked about the case really at all
[43:14] other than the size and form factor. But
[43:16] this is my favorite case on the market.
[43:17] As I say, this is the Fantex NV5 V2. And
[43:20] the reason I really like this one is cuz
[43:22] it's very well priced. It's roughly £100
[43:24] depending on when and where you're
[43:26] buying it from. Comes in a few different
[43:28] colors and it's just very well made. So
[43:30] by that it's kind of like thickness of
[43:32] the metals and the glass and obviously
[43:34] the fact that it's just really nicely
[43:36] designed inside. So, uh, you will have
[43:38] to add some fans. That's the main
[43:39] downside with this. As I say, you can
[43:41] absolutely do it on the cheap. You can
[43:42] buy some like ID cooling fans or
[43:44] something, uh, dot them throughout. As
[43:46] long as they're turned down, you'll be
[43:47] absolutely fine. But, it's just really
[43:48] easy to build inside this. And you've
[43:50] got this cool little RGB strip down the
[43:52] bottom here as well. It It just looks
[43:53] neat. My personal rig, you can find this
[43:55] in the top right corner of your screen,
[43:57] is in this, but white. I love that
[43:59] build. I'm still using it today. It's
[44:00] amazing. But what you will need to do is
[44:03] take these side panels off. So, both the
[44:05] front and the back. So, you can access
[44:08] everything. And this is the point where
[44:10] you might start to think, "Oh, maybe
[44:12] I've uh gone a little bit too far. What
[44:14] have I got myself in for?" But I promise
[44:17] it is actually very straightforward.
[44:18] These cables, all they're going to do is
[44:20] connect to the motherboard essentially,
[44:21] just so that the case can talk to it.
[44:23] It's really, really, really
[44:24] straightforward. So, we've got a few
[44:25] different cables, and I'll film some
[44:27] B-roll for this, so it should be nice
[44:28] and clear for you. We've got our USBs.
[44:30] So, we've got a USB 3. This says USB 3.1
[44:33] on it. We have a USB 3, which is that
[44:36] blue one. We have our HD audio here. So,
[44:38] remember on this motherboard, it's going
[44:39] to AAFP, analog audio, front panel.
[44:42] We've also got our power switch. And
[44:44] actually, on most cases, this will
[44:45] probably say front panel. Uh, this
[44:47] combines like the power switch, the
[44:48] reset button, and any of those LEDs all
[44:51] in one container. Some cases there still
[44:53] be those tiny little individual ones
[44:55] that are really annoying, but actually a
[44:56] lot of decent cases these days will come
[44:58] as a single block. And then this just
[45:00] plugs in down the bottom as discussed
[45:01] earlier. And then, is there anything
[45:03] else here? Yes, depending on the case
[45:04] you have, you might have one of these
[45:06] which is a SATA power connection. So,
[45:08] this is for all of the RGB on this
[45:10] computer to work essentially because
[45:12] it's going to take a decent amount of
[45:13] power. But you might also have some USB
[45:15] 2s. Uh USB 2 is what the cooler is going
[45:18] to use and this will connect down the
[45:19] bottom. But again, if you've got like a
[45:21] smart case that has a hub on it,
[45:22] something like that, you might find that
[45:24] needs to connect. And then somewhere on
[45:26] this, you should Yeah. also have one of
[45:28] these, which is an RGB connection. So,
[45:30] this is a three pin. So, this can daisy
[45:32] chain off of some other RGB fans or RGB
[45:35] strips or something that you put in your
[45:36] case. But because this is Fantex, it
[45:38] also has a Fantex connection as well,
[45:40] which uses digital RGB. They're
[45:41] basically the same. They just got a
[45:43] slightly different pin layout. But we
[45:44] don't actually need to worry about those
[45:46] cables for now. Instead, we can just
[45:48] tuck them out of the way and then just
[45:50] gently lay the case down flat like so.
[45:52] And we're going to pick our motherboard
[45:54] up and put it in here. But it's worth
[45:55] bearing in mind a couple of things.
[45:56] Firstly, you have what's called an IO
[45:58] shield on most motherboards. Now, that's
[46:00] actually baked into the motherboard. So,
[46:01] if I hadn't told you this, you'd never
[46:02] know about it, you know. Fine, great.
[46:04] But if you go for a budget friendly
[46:05] system, you probably get this little
[46:07] metal plate inside the motherboard box.
[46:09] You need to push this here and this
[46:11] little hole. Look, as otherwise, you're
[46:13] going to have well, massive hole in your
[46:14] computer. It's meant to be a bit of
[46:16] shielding, but these days I don't really
[46:18] think it really does much, but hey, like
[46:20] put it in otherwise your PC will look a
[46:21] little bit weird. Uh, then you also need
[46:23] to bear in mind these points here. These
[46:24] are the standoffs that we spoke about
[46:26] earlier. So, most cases have them
[46:29] pre-installed. So, if you're using an
[46:30] ATX case, a large case like we are here,
[46:33] you can see everything that says A
[46:35] actually has a standoff pre-applied. But
[46:37] if we wanted to put a smaller
[46:39] motherboard inside this, this is when
[46:41] we'd need to use our good old friend,
[46:42] the pliers, cuz we need to take these
[46:44] out and then move them to all of the
[46:46] holes that say M. I say all of them. It
[46:48] depends on the motherboard. Some
[46:49] MicroATX motherboards have more holes
[46:50] than others, which is a little bit
[46:51] annoying, but you should know about it
[46:53] if it doesn't line up cuz you'll go to
[46:54] push your motherboard in and something
[46:56] won't quite be right. It should fit
[46:58] really nice and flush. But again, you've
[47:00] got ITX as well. So, it would just be
[47:01] these four screws if you're doing ITX.
[47:04] This case does actually come with a
[47:05] little uh removal tool for the
[47:07] standoffs. So, you wouldn't even need to
[47:08] use the pliers, which is great. But most
[47:10] cases kind of annoyingly don't come with
[47:11] one of those. But the good news is most
[47:13] people should just be able to grab your
[47:14] motherboard and drop it into place as it
[47:16] will be good to go for you. So, we're
[47:19] going to do just that. We'll gently line
[47:21] this up. Be careful, but you know, if
[47:23] you have a couple of knocks, it's not
[47:24] the end of the world. It's fine. And
[47:26] this central standoff usually is a
[47:28] little bit taller. So, it kind of
[47:29] catches the motherboard and then you'll
[47:30] see that this now isn't going to move.
[47:32] Obviously, you need to screw it down.
[47:34] You're not going to leave it like this.
[47:35] Uh, but that just makes it a lot easier.
[47:36] As I say, it kind of like catches it in
[47:38] place. I'm going to show some B-roll now
[47:40] of the motherboard screws that you're
[47:41] going to need to use. These will come in
[47:43] the box and they've got these kind of
[47:44] like ring on it so you know that they're
[47:46] the right ones. But, this particular
[47:48] case also comes with a case of screws
[47:50] which is nice and they should be pre-
[47:52] sorted for you as well. So, it's very
[47:54] easy to work out what screws it is that
[47:56] you need. But the motherboard ones are
[47:58] those ring ones. And then, as you'd
[48:00] expect, you just need to screw in to all
[48:01] of those open points on the board.
[48:07] Once you've done that, you should notice
[48:09] that your PC is starting to resemble a
[48:12] PC. Things are getting a bit exciting.
[48:14] There's not actually that much more that
[48:16] you need to do. Now, obviously, with
[48:17] this particular case, again, remember,
[48:19] there's no fans. So, we are going to add
[48:20] these, well, I say a little bit later.
[48:22] May as well do it now. And it's
[48:23] definitely worth bearing in mind that
[48:25] different fans have different levels of
[48:26] performance, but in terms of physical
[48:28] size, different fans will go in
[48:30] different locations. So, your safest bet
[48:32] is to grab 120s. These will fit in
[48:34] almost all places really. But if you go
[48:37] for a larger chassis, then you'll find
[48:39] you can get 140 mil fans. 140s are
[48:42] pretty much always better. The reason
[48:43] for this is just because you have a
[48:45] larger mass of fan, so it doesn't need
[48:46] to spin as fast and cause as much noise
[48:49] to actually move as much air, which is
[48:51] great. So you can get better performance
[48:52] and lower noise levels, but most fans
[48:54] are 120 because most cases accept 120s.
[48:57] But we're going to put these three
[48:58] reverse blade fans here. I was thinking
[49:00] about adding two more, but I think that
[49:03] is a waste of money, so we're just going
[49:04] to use the three. There you go. I've
[49:06] just saved you 105 quid. Just as easy as
[49:08] that. I told you we're going to make
[49:09] some mistakes, but the good news was we
[49:11] can clear them up as we go along. So
[49:13] these being fancy fans, one of the
[49:14] reasons they're more expensive is
[49:15] because they actually use one of these
[49:17] intelligent hubs, like one of these IQ
[49:19] Link hubs. So unlike traditional fans
[49:20] that have two cables, they can get
[49:22] messy. One for RGB, one for fan speed.
[49:24] Uh they all daisy chain together and
[49:25] then over one cable they connect to the
[49:27] hub and then everything is just going to
[49:29] be much cleaner and tidier. So these are
[49:31] quite high-end, but remember that you
[49:32] definitely do not have to buy these
[49:34] specific ones. And again, depending on
[49:36] the case, you'll probably get some
[49:37] fitted as standard, which for most
[49:39] builds will be absolutely fine. But here
[49:40] you can see these are pretty high-end,
[49:42] actually. They're nice looking fans,
[49:43] though. Expensive, but nice. But that's
[49:45] what I mean about like reverse blades.
[49:47] This still looks fine to me, but
[49:49] obviously that side looks nicer than
[49:51] this side, which is why you want to make
[49:52] sure you buy the appropriate fan. But
[49:54] with these Corsair ones, you have these
[49:56] little connections that literally just
[49:57] push in. And then you get a little
[49:58] plastic dummy for rigidity as well. Then
[50:00] you should just be able to get these two
[50:02] fans, line them up, and then as if by
[50:05] magnet, there you are. They connect
[50:07] together. Very straightforward, pretty
[50:08] tough, pretty sturdy. Let's do the same
[50:10] though with our third fan. And then
[50:12] making sure we've got the orientation
[50:13] that we want, we can just position these
[50:15] in the side of the case, pick up our fan
[50:18] screws. And I will say that these are
[50:19] kind of the fancy screws that come with
[50:21] Corsair fans. They make it a lot easier
[50:22] to screw in. The normal fan screw looks
[50:24] like this. Little bit longer, a little
[50:26] bit chunkier, and just requires a bit
[50:28] more screwing. But I'll come around this
[50:29] side. Look, so you can properly see. All
[50:31] I'm going to do is grab one screw and
[50:33] just gently get this in. Remember,
[50:36] because we have this block, we don't
[50:37] need to do a screw for every single one.
[50:39] That's one of the advantages for going
[50:41] for daisy chainable fans, but just get
[50:43] one in just to kind of line it up and
[50:45] then you can tighten as you go. I mean,
[50:48] with fans, it's a lot harder to
[50:49] overtighten. So, I wouldn't worry about
[50:51] it too much, but the more screws you're
[50:53] going to use, the more secure it's in
[50:55] place and the less chance of any
[50:56] vibrations. So, this is the way I'll
[50:58] check just to kind of do that. But there
[50:59] you go. Look, as if by magic, and to be
[51:01] fair, they are expensive, but they are
[51:03] so easy to install and obviously very,
[51:05] very clean. You will now have some fans
[51:07] in your case. And do you see how much
[51:09] better and more normal that looks? Not
[51:11] sure it needed to cost £105, but you can
[51:13] do that for probably what, like 30, 35,
[51:16] or you could just get a case, as I say,
[51:17] that comes with them fitted as standard.
[51:19] But that's good to go. So, what we need
[51:20] to do now is start thinking about
[51:22] cables. So, I'm going to turn this round
[51:23] again just to ensure you can see. And
[51:26] those same cables that we showed you
[51:27] earlier, it's now time to kind of like
[51:29] tuck them into their respective
[51:30] positions. So, it'll be slightly
[51:31] different depending on the case or the
[51:32] motherboard, but mostly it's the same.
[51:35] We just want to get this USB and then
[51:37] feed that through to the main chamber
[51:38] somewhere in the middle. The HD audio
[51:40] and the addressable RGB we can tuck
[51:42] through to the bottom. USBC can come
[51:44] here at the top. The power switch goes
[51:46] right down here at the bottom. And then
[51:48] lastly, our SATA we're going to leave
[51:49] for a little bit cuz we can't plug that
[51:51] in until our power supply is installed.
[51:53] So, when we give this another spin
[51:55] around and then cutting to my favorite
[51:57] thing in the world, the B-roll we took
[51:58] earlier, we can get these plugged in.
[52:00] So, the power switch again goes at the
[52:02] bottom right hand side of the
[52:04] motherboard. It's not reversible, so
[52:06] make sure this is plugging in the right
[52:07] way. Then we have our USBs, and again,
[52:09] lovely B-roll. Look, we've got our USB 3
[52:13] and then our USBC. I'm not sure how this
[52:16] is going to look, but this is what we've
[52:17] done so far. We're mixing two formats.
[52:19] It's very edgy here on this channel. And
[52:21] then cutting back to our best friend BL,
[52:23] we have our addressable RGB right down
[52:25] at the bottom. And then our HD audio
[52:28] again all the way at the bottom left.
[52:30] Once you've done it, it should look
[52:31] something like this. But it's good
[52:32] practice just to kind of go over all of
[52:34] those cables again. Just give them a
[52:35] slight push just to make sure that they
[52:37] are in properly and any slack if you can
[52:39] kind of push it through just to make it
[52:40] a little bit neater. It's definitely
[52:42] going to help you. I think the next
[52:44] thing that we need to do is to install
[52:45] the cooler though. It says almost
[52:47] knocking screws flying everywhere. So
[52:49] let's return to this. And rather than
[52:51] plugging the pump head into the
[52:53] motherboard first, it's always better
[52:54] really to grab your radiator and install
[52:56] this. Having said that, depending on the
[52:58] case, sometimes it's going to be easier
[53:00] to plug a power supply cable into the
[53:03] top here now rather than putting the
[53:06] radiator in because if there's not much
[53:07] clearance here at the top, you'll find
[53:09] as soon as you put your radiator in, it
[53:11] will actually physically cover up a lot
[53:12] of the ports here. So, this could be
[53:14] your CPU fan, could be your address RGB
[53:16] or any of these powers. In this case,
[53:18] I'm not bothered about it because we've
[53:20] got a lot of space, but on most cases,
[53:22] it's good practice to think about this
[53:23] before you install it. There's just two
[53:25] screws here on the back that I need to
[53:26] remove. And then this will obviously
[53:28] come out. Then we can see, I'll show
[53:30] you, look, that we actually have this
[53:32] kind of rail here, and this is where our
[53:34] radiator obviously going to fit. But
[53:36] there's quite a few cases that you have
[53:37] multiple sizes. So, this could be for
[53:39] slightly larger fans if you're using
[53:41] 140s, or maybe if you just want to kind
[53:43] of bring it out or push it back a little
[53:45] bit. uh cases that give you more
[53:46] flexibility are usually kind of nicer to
[53:49] work with. But here, all we need to do
[53:51] is just kind of put that pump head there
[53:53] and let it sit for a second. And then
[53:55] just gently bring this up. Realize that
[53:57] I haven't got the screws out yet. So,
[53:59] let's grab this bag that lovingly says
[54:01] screws on it and open this up. And this
[54:02] is where I say you don't want to get
[54:04] your screws muddled really. So, you want
[54:07] to make sure you know what's what. These
[54:09] longer ones you'll see are if you're
[54:10] going to get a fan and actually kind of
[54:12] go through the fan into the radiator to
[54:14] to secure it this way. Uh whereas the
[54:16] ones we want are these really small
[54:18] ones. And you do get washers as well as
[54:21] depending on the case, you might find
[54:22] that the hole up here is a little bit
[54:24] too big. So once again, let's line this
[54:25] up into position. And this is where
[54:27] having two people is a lot easier. But
[54:29] you can just put that screw in. Grab
[54:31] your screwdriver. Potentially wish that
[54:33] you had more friends available. And then
[54:35] just put one in like that. Be sure not
[54:38] to drop this yet as you'll be putting
[54:39] way too much force on one bit of the
[54:41] radiator and you don't want to bend
[54:42] anything. So instead, screw in the other
[54:45] corner. Even if it's just a little bit,
[54:47] there you go. Then your back and
[54:48] shoulders will be very grateful. You can
[54:51] loosen this one up a bit then. And then
[54:52] you can see you can just kind of slide
[54:53] it so you can get it into the exact
[54:55] position that you want. And you should
[54:56] see what I mean here. You can just about
[54:58] going to still see all of those
[55:00] connections. And there's big holes at
[55:01] the back. So actually managing this
[55:03] should be fine. But again, if it's a
[55:04] shorter case, it would get problematic.
[55:06] Now, so let's continue with the rest of
[55:08] the screws. Then we can get our top
[55:09] panel and slide that back on. And then
[55:12] to make things as easy as possible, I'm
[55:14] going to lay this down flat once again.
[55:16] And obviously, we do need to get our
[55:17] pump head. And at this stage, you'd
[55:19] hopefully still have like a plastic
[55:21] cover and some thermal compound
[55:23] pre-applied to this exact unit. But
[55:24] again, cuz I'm reusing this, I need to
[55:26] grab some more. That was I was going to
[55:28] say purchase separately. ASUS actually
[55:30] sent this one out, but you'll need to
[55:31] grab some separately. And then once
[55:32] again, kind of like a P-sized amount in
[55:34] the middle. And then it really should
[55:35] just be a case of lining this up, look,
[55:37] with those holes, grabbing your
[55:39] screwdriver, and then 20% force on one
[55:41] bit, the same on the other diagonal, and
[55:43] then it's just a case of tightening up
[55:44] the rest. And I tell you what, guys,
[55:46] this really is starting to look like a
[55:48] gaming PC now, isn't it? And especially
[55:50] at the point of installing your graphics
[55:52] card. I can't stress enough again, watch
[55:54] the guide in the top right corner of
[55:56] your screen that goes through how to
[55:57] pick a graphics card and just make sure
[55:59] that you do get the right one for you.
[56:01] Uh, but I'd say for most people it's
[56:03] still expensive, but this is kind of the
[56:04] best mid-range option really. It's a
[56:06] 5060 Ti 16 gig. This is going to be
[56:09] great for 1080p, 1440, and actually a
[56:11] fair amount of 4K gaming as long as
[56:13] you're willing to use DLSS. It's going
[56:15] to be okay at ray tracing, but not like
[56:17] amazing, but I think most people are
[56:19] okay with that. And it's going to give
[56:20] you high multiplayer frame rates as
[56:22] well. So, pretty much all you need. But
[56:23] if you step up to this to something like
[56:25] a 5070, 5070Ti, 9070, 9070 XT, then
[56:29] you're just going to have even higher
[56:30] frame rates really in multiplayer games
[56:32] and it will allow you to turn on a few
[56:34] more RA tracing settings in single
[56:36] player. But as I say, for most people,
[56:38] this is probably all you need. If you
[56:39] want to step down, I would go for a 9060
[56:41] XT from AMD because it's performance
[56:43] isn't that far away from this, but
[56:45] usually is a fair bit cheaper and it
[56:46] still has 16 GB of VRAM, which is nice.
[56:49] But let's get this out of the box. And
[56:51] this particular version is from Pallet,
[56:53] but obviously you've got a whole host of
[56:55] different manufacturers and I don't
[56:56] really have any favorites to be honest
[56:58] because you'll find that actually the
[56:59] cards, they're all using the same GPU.
[57:01] So in theory, the performance should be
[57:03] basically the same. But you will find
[57:04] that they will vary depending on the
[57:06] size of the graphics card. So thickness,
[57:08] length, and then obviously the amount of
[57:09] fans and things that they have. And
[57:11] generally speaking, the more fans and
[57:12] the more cooling you've got, the quieter
[57:14] it will be. But especially in this
[57:15] generation, I can't really think of any
[57:17] graphics cards that are really loud. You
[57:19] used to get that all of the time on the
[57:20] cheaper ones, but these days I'd
[57:21] probably just go for the entry-level
[57:23] ones because in almost all instances,
[57:24] they're more than good enough really.
[57:26] People like ASUS, Semi, Gigabytes, all
[57:28] of them. No one's not guilty of this.
[57:30] They build really overspecs cards and
[57:33] kind of give it all all that about how
[57:34] great it is, but in terms of frame
[57:36] rates, as I say, they're not really that
[57:37] different and they're just making a load
[57:39] of money out of bigging uh building
[57:41] bigging I've lost it. Building bigger
[57:43] calling solutions. So, go for a more
[57:45] entry- level one if you can. I've
[57:47] already removed these two slot covers
[57:49] here, but you do just take these screws
[57:50] out and then it will fit in. And in this
[57:52] particular instance, we want two and
[57:54] three to be removed. You then find this
[57:55] little PI finger here. Look. And this is
[57:58] going to go in this top slot. Uh, but
[58:00] you just want to line this up. Sorry
[58:01] about me, Ed. I just need to make sure
[58:03] it is lined up. And then you can push it
[58:05] into place. You get a nice audible
[58:06] click. And then this will be secured in.
[58:08] If you need to remove it for any reason,
[58:10] you'll find that there is this little
[58:11] catch that's quite hard to activate on
[58:13] this board actually. Oh, no, it's not.
[58:14] It's got a quick release. Some
[58:16] motherboards have one of these quick
[58:17] releases. So, you push this down and it
[58:18] will release the catch that's holding it
[58:20] into position and then you can remove
[58:21] it. If you don't do that, then you will
[58:23] break something um plastic when you're
[58:25] kind of trying to force it out. So,
[58:27] don't force it. Uh just use the uh quick
[58:28] release mechanism. But obviously, once
[58:30] you've got it installed, you will need
[58:31] to now replace those screws to get this
[58:33] fitted nice and securely. Oh, and then
[58:35] it's starting to get heavy. You'll
[58:37] probably notice this now. But look, look
[58:40] at the system as it's coming together.
[58:42] Isn't it pretty? I know it looks better
[58:44] with the more expensive caller, but
[58:46] again, remember to save money for better
[58:47] frame rates for the same cost. Uh you
[58:49] could have gone for their air cooler. I
[58:51] mean, some people don't like the look of
[58:52] these tubes, but hey, each their own
[58:54] really. This is why you want to cable
[58:55] manage as you go as well, cuz the more
[58:57] stuff you put in it, the harder it is to
[58:59] get everything to look nice. So, just
[59:01] little bit of attention to detail as you
[59:02] pro proceed throughout the build
[59:04] definitely goes a long way. But, it's
[59:05] just a couple more things to do now.
[59:07] Mainly being the power supply, but also
[59:09] to get this cooler to actually be
[59:10] plumbed in cuz at the moment it's not
[59:11] connected to anything. So, where's my
[59:13] box? And here it is. And inside here,
[59:17] remember, most builds won't need all of
[59:19] this gubbins, but I mean, it makes sense
[59:21] for me to walk you through everything
[59:22] because different brands obviously have
[59:24] similar things that work in different
[59:25] ways. So, if it was like a lean lead
[59:26] cooler, you'd still have like a junction
[59:28] box and things like this. They're much
[59:29] better when they're magnetic, which a
[59:31] lot of them are, which is quite cool.
[59:32] The Corsair one is very small, but you
[59:34] have these little connections on both
[59:35] sides and these will connect to the
[59:37] cooler or to the fans, and you can daisy
[59:39] chain them together, which is just one
[59:40] of the ways of removing the amount of
[59:42] cables that you have. You'll see that
[59:43] I've already got this plugged in. This
[59:44] is like a little dummy CPU header.
[59:47] Remember, we didn't plug a CPU fan cable
[59:49] in at the moment because we took that
[59:51] air cooler out. Well, that's what this
[59:52] is. That will connect your motherboard
[59:54] to the cooler. But then also inside the
[59:56] box, we've got the cables that will go
[59:59] to the fans alongside a USB 2 cable to
[60:02] actually get the cooler connected to the
[60:03] motherboard. And then we also have this
[60:05] little power connection here as well. So
[60:06] this is going to use a PCIe from the
[60:08] power supply to supply power to this
[60:11] hub. So all of the fans, the cooler,
[60:12] everything is powered over a single
[60:14] cable. So one of these cables needs to
[60:16] plug into the cooler. Then this will go
[60:18] to the junction box. But I can just feed
[60:19] this through. Look at the top to get
[60:21] everything neat. And then there's also
[60:23] one on the back of this block of fans.
[60:25] So, another cable that we can just feed
[60:28] through into the back chamber. Connect
[60:30] the pump head to this little block. Then
[60:32] we need to get this fan cable that's
[60:34] going from the top fans into these fans,
[60:37] which isn't actually that fiddly when
[60:39] you compare it to the alternative, but
[60:41] it feels fiddly at the moment. And I
[60:42] must admit, I am asking myself, why
[60:44] didn't I do this when I installed the
[60:46] fans? Do the same to the port at the
[60:48] bottom. Then get this connected to the
[60:50] hub. You also need to connect the USB to
[60:52] the bottom of the hub alongside the
[60:54] power. Then just feed the CPU cable all
[60:56] the way up to the top. And again,
[60:57] remembering to cable manage as you go.
[60:59] So, I'm going to loosen this and just
[61:00] snap all of the cables into position.
[61:02] Then you just connect that USB to one of
[61:04] the ports at the bottom. Then that CPU
[61:06] cable plugs into that CPU header. And
[61:08] then I'm really pleased to say that we
[61:10] actually are almost done. It's almost
[61:12] time to get gaming. It is literally just
[61:14] the power supply to go. And once again,
[61:16] as a reminder, this power supply is a
[61:18] little bit oversp spec for this system.
[61:19] I'd probably go for a 750 for this. But
[61:22] again, depends obviously what you're
[61:23] going to upgrade to and obviously what
[61:25] you want to prioritize. This particular
[61:26] one is also from Corsair RM850e, but
[61:29] there's quite a few brands personally
[61:31] speaking that I trust, but I've used
[61:32] like Corsair power supplies for ages.
[61:34] And as far as I know, I haven't had any
[61:36] real issues. I think there was one is a
[61:38] watercooled system, and I don't know
[61:39] whether it's the power supply that's
[61:40] causing the system to turn off or
[61:42] something else I've done. That's still
[61:43] under investigation. But yeah, Corsair
[61:45] power supplies I've been using for
[61:46] years. They're pretty good, but MSI make
[61:48] good ones as well. CIC loads
[61:50] essentially, but obviously always look
[61:52] at the individual one, the reviews and
[61:53] how they perform essentially. But you'll
[61:55] notice that this doesn't have any cables
[61:57] pre-attached. This is actually not
[61:59] normal for a power supply. It kind of is
[62:01] in PC gaming, but most power supplies
[62:04] are called non-modular, which means
[62:05] everything is pre-attached and it saves
[62:07] you money. The benefit of having a
[62:09] modular power supply is that you only
[62:11] need to plug in the cables that you
[62:12] actually need, which neatens everything
[62:14] up. It potentially means in the future
[62:16] that you can get different cables,
[62:17] whether that's ones that look better or
[62:19] if there's a new standard that's brought
[62:21] in. Sometimes they will bring out like
[62:23] adapters like Corsair for PCI generation
[62:25] 5. Uh they brought out these adaption
[62:27] cables that could be plugged in which
[62:28] were pretty cool. Uh but it is just nice
[62:30] to not have the cables in your rig that
[62:32] you don't need. But it's a good
[62:33] illustration here to show you what we
[62:34] need. I'll get this the right way up.
[62:36] You can see our motherboard cables. It's
[62:38] a little bit weird. I I still don't
[62:39] really know why to this day, but you
[62:40] have different connections here
[62:42] sometimes than you do actually in your
[62:44] PC. I think it's a good thing cuz it
[62:46] then means you can't accidentally plug
[62:47] uh the wrong side of the cable into the
[62:49] wrong thing. But a lot of them look
[62:51] quite similar. So, motherboard will plug
[62:52] in here. It really is very
[62:54] straightforward. But do make sure that
[62:55] it is pushed in all the way so that
[62:57] clicks and you've double checked the
[62:59] safety and security of these because
[63:01] quite often, and I have had real life
[63:03] examples of this where I've had friends
[63:05] calling me saying that their PC doesn't
[63:07] work. They're getting really upset,
[63:08] really stressed. They didn't take a time
[63:10] out and a cup of tea, but it did just
[63:11] turn out that the power connections
[63:13] weren't actually properly inserted into
[63:14] their power supply. So, that's why I say
[63:16] always double check all your connections
[63:18] as you go. On this particular one, cuz
[63:20] it's an Nvidia GPU, we do need one of
[63:22] these, which is a PCI generation 5
[63:24] connection. If you don't have one, then
[63:25] you may well have an adapter inside the
[63:27] box with your graphics card that you can
[63:28] use. But these will plug in where it
[63:30] says PCIe/CPU.
[63:33] And speaking of CPU, obviously we will
[63:35] need our CPU connection for the
[63:37] motherboard. Remember I said you've got
[63:39] an 8 pin here, which is what most rigs
[63:41] need, but you'll find that some will be
[63:43] 28 pins or eight and four depending on
[63:45] the CPU that you're using. They're also
[63:47] labeled as well. So this is one of the
[63:48] ones that looks very similar um on here
[63:51] as it does when you actually get to the
[63:52] motherboard. So look at the labels and
[63:53] the side that says CPU that actually
[63:55] goes to your board. And then here, the
[63:56] plain side goes into the power supply.
[63:58] And then remember that our case actually
[64:00] has that bakedin RGB and had that little
[64:02] dangling SATA connection. So we do need
[64:04] to plug one of these into our power
[64:06] supply so we can actually obviously meet
[64:08] it at the other end. These are typically
[64:10] used for hard drives, SATA SSDs or most
[64:13] third party hubs will actually connect
[64:15] with a SATA connection. But while the
[64:18] case that we're using today uses SATA,
[64:20] the hub actually uses a PCIe cuz that
[64:22] can do more power. It's quite rare
[64:23] though. It's only really Corsair that
[64:25] does this. This is what one of these
[64:26] PCIes looks like. By the way, you'll
[64:28] notice that it can actually be split.
[64:30] So, you have six or eight. And depending
[64:32] on that camera's dial, depending on the
[64:34] graphics card that you're using, it
[64:36] might have a six pin, it might have an
[64:37] eight, or it might have a combination of
[64:39] multiple, but they should just pull
[64:41] apart like this. And just like other
[64:43] side of your CPU, if you need a four
[64:45] pin, then that usually detaches. Look.
[64:47] So, you don't I'm looking at that one
[64:48] again. It's died. You don't need to
[64:50] worry too much about it. You can just
[64:51] like split them and then use them like
[64:53] that. So, let's get our final PI
[64:55] installed, shall we? And then we should
[64:56] be ready to actually get this in our PC.
[64:59] And as I say, this is the last thing
[65:00] that we need to do. Now, depending on
[65:02] the case. Now, NZXT cases, the new ones,
[65:05] these are the ones that are a little bit
[65:06] different, but most case, you want to
[65:08] get your power supply, find the fan,
[65:10] which is where obviously it's going to
[65:11] be able to breathe from. And then make
[65:13] sure it lines up with the vents on your
[65:14] system, which is usually downwards. So,
[65:16] most cases, 90 95% uh you want these
[65:20] facing downwards. But the new NZXT ones,
[65:22] as I say, you usually want to do the
[65:24] opposite on those. But check your case.
[65:26] And then you literally just pour that
[65:29] into position. And then when we give
[65:31] this a spin round, you should see that
[65:32] there are some holes on the back of your
[65:34] case. And these need to obviously line
[65:36] up with the power supply. And you also
[65:38] have this onoff switch. You may as well
[65:39] just turn this on now cuz otherwise when
[65:41] your PC doesn't work, you might wonder
[65:43] why. But cutting back to our good old
[65:44] friend B-roll, you want to find the hex
[65:46] screws that either come with your power
[65:47] supply or the case. And then you can
[65:49] just grab them on the end of your
[65:50] screwdriver and then secure your power
[65:52] supply down. Oh, and then ladies and
[65:55] gentlemen, you should now be pretty much
[65:57] ready to go. There's nothing else you
[65:59] need to put inside this. You literally
[66:00] just need to wire up the last few
[66:02] cables. And it really is very
[66:03] straightforward. I promise you've done
[66:04] harder things throughout this video. You
[66:06] just literally need to grab this really
[66:07] thick ATX and then you put this at the
[66:10] top. Then you grab the one that says CPU
[66:12] and this can go all the way at the top
[66:14] right. And this is that cable that if
[66:16] you're using, as I say, a shorter case,
[66:17] I would advise putting this into your
[66:19] motherboard before you put your crawler
[66:20] crawler in. Before you put your cooler
[66:22] in. Then you've got your ATX3 or your
[66:24] PCI generation 5, depending on what you
[66:26] want to call it. Again, this single 16
[66:28] pin connection for the graphics card. Oh
[66:30] no, what am I saying? This is a 5060 Ti.
[66:32] It uses an 8 pin. There is no 16. I'm
[66:35] getting carried away. This is probably a
[66:37] good thing for the video though because,
[66:38] as I say, different graphics cards have
[66:40] different connections. And if you're
[66:41] using an Nvidia RTX 5070 or above, then
[66:45] it will almost certainly come with a
[66:46] 16pin power connection, which is that
[66:48] single cable. But because we're using a
[66:50] 506Ti, then we want a PCI 8 pin just
[66:53] like we need for that Corsair hub. So,
[66:55] let's pretend that didn't happen and
[66:56] just carefully remove this and swap it
[66:58] out. No one would have noticed.
[67:04] So, there you go then. Living proof that
[67:06] even I make mistakes. It's easily done,
[67:08] but easily rectified, too. The next
[67:10] thing we need to do is just to plug in
[67:12] these little SATA connections. These uh
[67:14] well, I say SATA connections. It's just
[67:16] the single one, isn't it? For that RGB.
[67:18] There's only one right way of doing
[67:19] this. So, if it's the wrong way, just
[67:20] give it a little wiggle and then that
[67:22] should fit in just like that. And then
[67:23] any cables once you're done with them,
[67:25] you can tidy them up by obviously
[67:26] clumping them down or just kind of
[67:28] stuffing them a little bit out of the
[67:29] way, out of sight, out of mind. If you
[67:31] can't see them, should be absolutely
[67:32] fine. And then last, but certainly not
[67:34] least, this side. We do have that power
[67:37] connection look for the Corsair hub. So,
[67:39] we can just use one single six pin.
[67:41] Again, remember we've split that eight
[67:45] into a six. Push that in until it
[67:46] clicks. And then from this side, I will
[67:48] tidy it up. But for now, we are pretty
[67:50] much all good to go, which means last
[67:53] but certainly not least, we obviously
[67:54] need to plug in the cables this side. So
[67:56] for our graphics card, it is one eight
[67:58] pin. Some GPUs you'll need a daisy
[68:01] chain, but this one look just a single
[68:03] connection that we can push in and then
[68:05] tuck in and neaten like that. And then
[68:08] we can come around to the top. Look, and
[68:09] our ATX just inserts like so. And then
[68:12] our final cable look, and I'm very
[68:14] excited about this one, is the CPU. And
[68:17] again, this is going to get a little bit
[68:19] tight if you've got a shorter case, but
[68:21] should be okay on this. Cable's a little
[68:23] bit twisted. So, we just need to move
[68:24] this round. And then give it a wiggle
[68:26] and a push, and that should click into
[68:28] position. And then, ladies and
[68:30] gentlemen, there you are. We don't know
[68:32] it works yet. We've got one cable to
[68:34] tidy up. But beside that, I think we are
[68:36] pretty much good to go. I told you it
[68:38] was straightforward and simple because
[68:40] even if you do make mistakes, as I say,
[68:42] you realize what you've done and you
[68:44] just go back and you redo it and okay,
[68:46] it might take you an afternoon, but
[68:47] especially if there's two of you, should
[68:49] be relatively stress free. And
[68:50] obviously, if you've gone for all of the
[68:52] parts that we're using here, you can
[68:53] follow along almost precisely at home.
[68:55] Just like don't make that mistake with a
[68:57] cable. But if you're building other
[68:58] parts, which let's be honest, you
[68:59] probably are, then the good news is that
[69:01] for the most part, it's all exactly the
[69:03] same. It's only that Corsair bit that's
[69:05] a little bit proprietary. Sometimes the
[69:07] mounting with the uh coolers obviously
[69:09] is a little bit different. The cables
[69:10] for the graphics card, you know, small
[69:12] things like that, but the whole process
[69:14] is the same. Doesn't matter the brand of
[69:16] motherboard as well. All of the ports,
[69:18] they might be like different amounts of
[69:19] them, but the ports are all the same
[69:21] standards as long as obviously it
[69:22] supports that standard. So, there's not
[69:24] really too much to worry about. It's a
[69:26] nice easy process just cable manage as
[69:28] you go just to try and make it nice and
[69:30] neat. Because at the moment, this is
[69:32] looking not exactly fantastic, is it?
[69:34] Whereas if I had been kind of tucking
[69:36] these throughout the video rather than
[69:38] being very conscious that that camera
[69:40] was uh going to run out of storage, then
[69:42] this would have been a whole lot easier.
[69:44] But the thing I like about this case as
[69:45] well is that obviously you get this
[69:47] little panel that in theory once we put
[69:49] that back into position can obviously
[69:51] help to kind of hide some of these
[69:53] cables and any oddities essentially. So
[69:56] there's a lot more work we can do. But
[69:57] before you do any of that because that
[69:59] is one of the other mistakes people
[70:00] make. be way way too aggressive uh with
[70:04] the cable management. They've got to get
[70:05] it perfect before you've tested that it
[70:07] works. And then if something doesn't
[70:09] work, you have to pull it all apart and
[70:10] you're just going to be tearing your
[70:11] hair out. So instead, before we cable
[70:14] manage, let's see if it works. And your
[70:16] best bet for this, and I know it's going
[70:17] to sound like I'm joking, but I'm dead
[70:19] serious, is to grab yourself a PC
[70:20] monitor specifically. Now, a TV should
[70:24] be fine, but the reason I say this is
[70:26] because my first ever build, besides the
[70:28] power button being plugged into power
[70:30] LED rather than power switch, I was
[70:31] actually plugging it into a TV that
[70:33] didn't support the signal that gets sent
[70:35] from your computer to your screen when
[70:37] you're in the motherboard. So,
[70:39] everything was working, but I didn't
[70:41] know this because the display was
[70:42] completely black and I didn't know. And
[70:44] it was only when I changed, I think, to
[70:45] a different cable or might have actually
[70:46] been to a different display that I could
[70:48] see everything was working properly and
[70:50] then I could set everything up and then
[70:51] go back to use the television I was
[70:53] using and it would just work, but it
[70:54] just wouldn't work in the BIOS. Uh, so
[70:56] for that reason, if you have a monitor
[70:57] does help, but obviously by all means
[70:59] try a TV. Uh, but be aware if if it's
[71:02] just getting a black signal, but
[71:03] everything else seems to be working
[71:04] fine, it could be your display that's a
[71:06] problem. And speaking of display output,
[71:08] by the way, one of the key and biggest
[71:09] mistakes that I see people make when
[71:11] they're plugging in their computer and
[71:12] then thinking that the whole thing
[71:14] doesn't work is that they've actually
[71:15] grabbed their HDMI or display port cable
[71:17] and they've come along and they found it
[71:19] on their motherboard. Look, and they've
[71:21] connected it like that to the monitor,
[71:22] turn it on, nothing happens. Why? I've
[71:25] plugged it in. Well, actually, it's
[71:27] because instead of plugging the display
[71:29] into the motherboard, you have to plug
[71:31] it into the graphics card because the
[71:33] CPUs, or at least a lot of them will
[71:35] have what we call integrated GPUs. And
[71:37] if you plug into the motherboard, you're
[71:38] expecting that to output. But this often
[71:40] gets automatically shut off when you
[71:43] plug in a discrete graphics card. And
[71:45] then what you're supposed to do is plug
[71:46] into this and then the graphics card is
[71:47] going to go to your display. Sometimes
[71:49] you'll find that you might get a display
[71:51] output and it kind of will work if you
[71:52] plug into your motherboard, but that
[71:54] would still be misconfigured and
[71:55] wouldn't give you like the optimum
[71:56] refresh rate and optimum experience. So,
[71:58] you always want to plug in to the
[72:00] graphics card at the bottom. But let's
[72:01] get that hooked up, plugged into power.
[72:03] We're going to plug in a keyboard and
[72:04] mouse, but nothing else. And then, of
[72:06] course, the single most important thing
[72:08] of this whole video, you need to grab
[72:10] yourself a PCcentric mouse mat from
[72:12] pccentric.store
[72:14] or find the link down below. This thing
[72:16] is in a clearance sale. Once it's gone,
[72:18] it's gone. It would really help out the
[72:19] channel if you've enjoyed this video and
[72:21] if you're new to PC gaming, you get
[72:22] something that looks fantastic. And this
[72:24] is always the big question, isn't it?
[72:27] The moment of truth. You should hear a
[72:28] little wor. You should start to see like
[72:30] some RGB slowly coming to life. Usually
[72:33] the fans don't light up straight away.
[72:35] There's a bit of a delay on it. But if
[72:37] you press your button and nothing
[72:38] happens, at least wait like 10 seconds
[72:40] before you panic. Then obviously if it
[72:42] doesn't light up, you can check all of
[72:44] your connections. And then the next
[72:45] stage is you've got to hope that you see
[72:47] a series of lights here. A white LED at
[72:50] the top right is usually a good sign.
[72:52] And then assuming that your monitor is
[72:54] actually plugged into power, which
[72:55] obviously I've forgotten to do, so uh
[72:57] you then should see something come up on
[72:59] your display. That's two mistakes I've
[73:00] made in this video. Now, should we try
[73:02] again? Hopefully this time we are going
[73:04] to get an output. We've spent a lot of
[73:06] time on this. is going to be, as I say,
[73:08] a lot of stress if you're kind of
[73:09] building this from scratch and you
[73:11] haven't done it before, but good things
[73:12] come to those who wait. And ladies and
[73:15] gentlemen, there it is. You have now
[73:17] created your well, could be your second,
[73:20] but your first gaming PC. And when
[73:23] you've got this like display output, you
[73:25] know, for the most part at least that it
[73:27] should work properly. If you don't get
[73:29] this far, as I say, you're just going to
[73:30] check your cable connections, have a
[73:32] look at any error codes that appear on
[73:33] your PC. In fact, if you want to see a
[73:35] full video that goes through every
[73:37] reason why your PC went boot, you can
[73:38] find it in the top right corner of your
[73:40] screen. You can watch this before you
[73:41] get your parts so you know what you're
[73:42] doing or obviously watch it after
[73:43] bookmark it in case you need it. But
[73:45] yes, if you can see this screen, that is
[73:47] a great result. All you need to do now
[73:49] is just press F1 on your keyboard. Then
[73:51] you'll enter this, which is the BIOS,
[73:53] and then you'll see a screen like this.
[73:55] Depends on the motherboard that you're
[73:56] using. If it's like Gigabyte, MSI,
[73:58] ASRock, it will obviously look slightly
[73:59] different, but essentially this is where
[74:01] you can control your motherboard. So you
[74:03] can change like the fan speed, you can
[74:05] turn like your RAM overclocking on. The
[74:08] way we do this is where it says expo,
[74:09] we're going to set this to enabled and
[74:11] then the PC will restart once we've
[74:12] saved and exited uh with all of the
[74:15] changes. And then assuming it works
[74:16] properly, sometimes it won't and you
[74:18] have to reverse this. Then your RAM will
[74:19] then run at its full rated speed rather
[74:21] than the slower base speed that it will
[74:23] just run by for safety essentially. But
[74:25] I would advise that you do tune your
[74:27] fans. So just go into your fan tuning
[74:29] utility here. It's called Q fan control.
[74:31] just make sure you set everything to
[74:32] silent essentially. But actually where
[74:34] we're using the Corsair fans, we need to
[74:36] tune these in the software uh rather
[74:38] than in the utility. But for most
[74:40] people, this will control all of your
[74:42] fans. Once you've done that though,
[74:43] really simple and straightforward. You
[74:44] just need to grab yourself a copy of
[74:45] Windows. I've made a full video that
[74:47] walks you through how to do this. Find
[74:48] it in the top right corner of your
[74:49] screen. But essentially, you just grab
[74:50] Windows on a USB flash drive by
[74:52] downloading it on a different computer.
[74:53] Then you whack this in the back of your
[74:55] system. Then you can just turn it off,
[74:57] restart, and then follow the
[74:59] instructions, and then you'll be away.
[75:01] And then, ladies and gentlemen, you've
[75:02] got everything set up. Your gaming PC is
[75:05] complete. And the story doesn't stop
[75:06] there. If you want to see exactly what
[75:08] you need to do next, how to set up your
[75:09] PC for all of the best experiences and
[75:11] to obviously play like I would, I
[75:13] suppose, you can find that video again
[75:15] in the top rightand corner of your
[75:16] screen or link down below that will go
[75:17] through all of the best practices to set
[75:19] up a gaming PC from scratch. As I say,
[75:22] thanks for watching this video. Smash
[75:23] the like button, get yourself
[75:24] subscribed, and if you do want to check
[75:25] out current pricing on anything that was
[75:27] featured in this video, you can find
[75:28] that listed down below with our
[75:30] affiliate links for all of these parts
[75:31] and similar parts. And once again, a
[75:33] massive thank you to Overclockers UK for
[75:35] sponsoring this video. It's really
[75:36] helpful. And if you do want to grab PC
[75:38] parts in the UK, then they are
[75:39] absolutely one of the best places to go.
[75:41] And as I say, that next day delivery
[75:43] really can be incredibly helpful. But
[75:45] thank you guys so much. We'll catch you
[75:47] in the next one.
[75:49] [Music]