[0:00] One owner from new blue magnific paint.
[0:03] Come closer. Come closer. I'm not
[0:05] charging enough to include delivery.
[0:08] This logo here stands for form. You are
[0:11] racing. Better than a Capri gear and
[0:14] faster than Neil Armstrong. You know it
[0:17] makes sense. Oh contr Dellboy. Oh contr.
[0:21] Even though this thing has had one owner
[0:24] from new me. It's literally being driven
[0:28] by hundreds of people who can't drive.
[0:31] And the only thing this car has in
[0:33] common with Neil Armstrong
[0:36] is the fact it's done enough miles to
[0:39] make it to the moon. Well, almost. So,
[0:42] here are some tips to help you buy a
[0:44] used car. And my first tip is not to
[0:46] simply go to your local used car dealer
[0:48] because, well, you're going to be
[0:50] limiting your choice to what they happen
[0:52] to have in stock. Search online and be
[0:55] willing to travel. In my opinion, it's
[0:58] worth risking a day of your time to find
[1:00] the right used car for the right price.
[1:03] Online, you can use Autotrader. It has a
[1:05] brilliant search tool. Not only can you
[1:08] search via make and model, but mileage,
[1:10] age, even naugh to 60 time. The problem
[1:13] with Autotrader is it's expensive for
[1:16] dealers to put their cars on it, which
[1:18] means, well, you end up paying for that
[1:20] when you buy the car because they have
[1:21] to transfer that cost onto you by
[1:23] putting that cost onto the price of the
[1:25] car. If you're looking for the absolute
[1:27] cheapest cars, well, Facebook
[1:29] Marketplace may be a good place to
[1:31] start. You can also use eBay as well.
[1:33] That's a good place for used cars.
[1:35] Plenty of cars on there. It doesn't
[1:37] matter where you find your car. What
[1:39] matters is that you find the car you're
[1:41] looking for. The next thing to consider
[1:43] is whether or not the car is being sold
[1:45] by a dealer known as a trade seller or a
[1:48] private seller, which is the current
[1:49] owner of the car. There is a significant
[1:52] difference. If you're buying from a
[1:54] dealer, well, you have the Consumer
[1:56] Rights Act 2015 by your side. If there
[2:00] is a problem with the car, you can go
[2:02] back to the dealer. Make sure you let
[2:04] the dealer know as soon as possible
[2:05] because time does matter. The longer you
[2:07] leave it, the less rights you have. And
[2:10] don't just call them. Put it in writing.
[2:12] If the dealer is not playing ball, then
[2:15] go to the financial ombbudsman. When you
[2:18] buy from a private seller, though, you
[2:20] don't have those rights. That private
[2:22] seller could have a car that needs an
[2:25] expensive repair that they're trying to
[2:27] pass on to somebody else. You buy the
[2:29] car unaware of this repair that's
[2:31] needed. You find out later and there's
[2:33] nothing you can do about it. I don't
[2:36] recommend someone who knows little about
[2:38] cars buy from a private seller. It's
[2:40] better for people who are clued up about
[2:42] cars to buy from a private seller
[2:43] because they well they're more likely to
[2:45] know if there's a problem. Also, I don't
[2:48] recommend buying high value cars from
[2:50] private sellers either. Before you
[2:52] contact the seller of the car, there are
[2:54] three things you need to do. The first
[2:55] thing is to find out how much it costs
[2:57] to ensure that actual car you're going
[2:59] to view. I'll leave a link in the
[3:01] description to confuse.com. It's a price
[3:02] comparison website for car insurance
[3:04] amongst other things. I like using them
[3:06] because it's quick and easy. And once
[3:09] your details are stored, you just log in
[3:12] and you can find out the price to insure
[3:13] a car very quickly and compare different
[3:16] insurers. They're not sponsoring this
[3:18] video, but it is an affiliate link. So,
[3:20] if you click on it, depending on what
[3:22] happens afterwards, I may get a small
[3:24] commission, but it doesn't cost you
[3:25] anything. The reason why you want to get
[3:27] a quote for the actual car you're going
[3:29] to view is because you can have two cars
[3:32] that are exactly the same or at least
[3:34] you think they are exactly the same and
[3:36] one cost significantly more to insure
[3:39] than the other. So you may be thinking,
[3:41] "Oh, I've got a quote for that other
[3:42] car. This car is the same. It's going to
[3:44] be the same price." You go and buy the
[3:46] car and then find out, oh criy, the car
[3:49] insurance is a lot more. So you don't
[3:50] want that nasty surprise. you want to
[3:52] get a price for the actual car you're
[3:54] going to view. The next thing is vehicle
[3:57] excise duty or road tax as most people
[4:00] call it. The same thing is true. You can
[4:02] have two cars that appear to be exactly
[4:05] the same but the cost to put road tax on
[4:08] them is vastly different and that's
[4:10] because rules change and also throughout
[4:12] the lifetime of the car it's going to be
[4:13] tweaked and that can make a difference
[4:15] to how much it costs to tax it and the
[4:17] difference can be great.
[4:20] And the third thing is to go on to theot
[4:23] history check website. It's free to use.
[4:25] I'll leave a link in the description.
[4:27] You put the number plate of the car in
[4:29] and you can see the history of the
[4:31] car's. You can see where it's passed
[4:33] failed, why it's failed, and the
[4:35] advisories. Once you have found out how
[4:38] much it costs to insure it, tax it, and
[4:40] you've looked at theote history, now
[4:43] it's time to contact the seller. My tip
[4:46] is to have a list of information that
[4:48] you want to find out. list on screen.
[4:50] Now, you can add to that list or take
[4:52] away from it. It's up to you. But that
[4:54] is my advice. This is the information
[4:55] you really want to find out when you
[4:57] contact the seller. You can email it to
[4:59] them or you can call them. I prefer to
[5:02] call them so I get an idea of what they
[5:03] are like. Are they answering my
[5:05] questions? Are they rabbiting on about
[5:07] nonsense for ages and ignoring what I'm
[5:09] asking them? How easy are they to deal
[5:11] with? Do I want to buy a car off them?
[5:14] Do I want to take a car back to them if
[5:16] there's a problem with the car? The most
[5:19] important information you're trying to
[5:21] find out is the car's service history
[5:24] and whether or not there's anything
[5:25] wrong with it. Now, most cars have a
[5:28] book like this. And in this book, it
[5:30] will tell you what needs to be serviced
[5:32] and when. And there will be somewhere
[5:36] for the garage to write the date and the
[5:38] mileage of the service and then stamp
[5:40] it. It's better to look through the
[5:42] invoices though cuz that's better
[5:44] evidence that the previous owner or
[5:46] owners have serviced it. Also, does it
[5:49] have a timing chain or a timing belt? If
[5:52] it has a timing belt, that will need
[5:55] replacing every so often. Is it due soon
[5:58] or has it just been done? If you're
[6:00] driving around in a vehicle with an old
[6:02] timing belt that needs replacing, well,
[6:04] that's a ticking time bong. The engine
[6:06] could die suddenly without warning. And
[6:09] if the car has not been serviced when
[6:11] it's supposed to, well, that can cause
[6:14] irreversible damage to the engine. I
[6:17] don't recommend buying a car without a
[6:18] full service history because the engine
[6:20] is likely going to be more worn. But
[6:22] overall, it's a sign of how that car has
[6:24] been cared for. However, when you're
[6:27] looking at the lowest end of the market,
[6:29] the cheapest cars for sale, it can be
[6:31] hard to find one with a full service
[6:33] history because the car is not worth
[6:36] enough to warrant spending money on it,
[6:38] not even a service. So, when it comes to
[6:40] the cheapest cars you can buy, often
[6:42] they don't have a full service history.
[6:45] Sometimes though, it may be serviced by
[6:47] the owner, and that doesn't put me off.
[6:50] That's a good sign because that owner
[6:52] has probably taken good care of the car,
[6:55] but I would want to see receipts for the
[6:59] servicing parts as proof that they have
[7:01] serviced it. So, you've actually made it
[7:03] to come and view the car. My next tip is
[7:06] to make another list. Look around the
[7:09] car and write down any problems you see
[7:12] with the car. Don't rely on your memory
[7:15] because you may forget some of the
[7:16] problems. When it comes to you making a
[7:18] decision as to whether or not you're
[7:19] going to buy the car, you want all the
[7:22] information on the list in front of you
[7:23] so that you make the best decision and
[7:25] if you decide to buy it, you get the
[7:27] best deal. So, look around from top to
[7:29] bottom at the paint. Is it damaged? Are
[7:32] the panels damaged? Look at the rubbers.
[7:34] Look at the plastics. Look at the
[7:36] lights. You can see here this light has
[7:39] some crazing. These little cracks. I'll
[7:42] write that down. Look at the wheels.
[7:45] Look at the panel gaps. Are they even?
[7:48] They're going to vary in size. Like the
[7:50] panel gap for the door is going to be
[7:53] much bigger than the gap for the bumper
[7:56] and for the bonnet. But what's important
[7:59] is that they are even. They don't get
[8:01] bigger or smaller when you run your
[8:04] finger along them. Look at the tires.
[8:08] Are there cuts and bulges? What's the
[8:10] tread like? Is there much tread? How old
[8:13] are they? Find the date code just there.
[8:16] Week 20, 2024.
[8:20] Tire manufacturers recommend tires are
[8:22] replaced after 10 years. There's no law
[8:25] about that, but in my experience, tires
[8:28] aren't very good after about 5 years.
[8:30] Check the brakes. As long as they're not
[8:33] hot, you can run your finger along the
[8:36] top like that. And when you get to the
[8:38] top bit just there, there shouldn't be a
[8:42] big lip. If you can feel like a ridge
[8:44] just here, like a raised bit on the end,
[8:46] that's about one plus mil over one mil
[8:49] big, that's a sign that the brakes are
[8:51] worn. But really take your time. Don't
[8:54] just glance at it. Look around it like
[8:56] you're cleaning it. Imagine you're
[8:58] cleaning the car and you're trying to
[8:59] get every spot. That way you're going to
[9:03] see all the parts of the car and you're
[9:05] going to notice any problems. Also, you
[9:08] can look under the car. You can't see
[9:10] much these days because of all the
[9:12] plastic covers, but if there was an
[9:15] obvious problem, you'll likely see
[9:17] something if there's obvious damage or
[9:18] if there's a big oil leak. For the next
[9:20] thing, you don't need to know anything
[9:22] about engines. I've opened the bonnet
[9:24] because I'm onehanded at the moment as
[9:26] I'm holding the camera with one hand and
[9:28] it's awkward to open the bonnet with
[9:30] only one hand. Even if you know nothing
[9:33] about engines, you can have a look. You
[9:35] can look at the fluid levels. Are they
[9:36] between min and max? If you're
[9:38] struggling to see any fluid, shine a
[9:40] light on it. The light from your phone
[9:42] will probably work and help you see
[9:43] where it is. You can check the oil with
[9:45] the dipstick. And also, you can just
[9:47] look at it and see, is it like this?
[9:50] This is an honest engine. Dry and dusty.
[9:54] Is it super clean? Has someone steam
[9:57] cleaned it? Maybe to try and hide
[9:59] something or maybe just to make it look
[10:01] better. Who knows? But a dry, dusty
[10:03] engine like this is usually a very
[10:05] honest engine. Oil should be on the
[10:08] inside of the engine, not the outside.
[10:10] You shouldn't be seeing oil in the
[10:13] engine bay. Neither should you be seeing
[10:15] coolant. Coolant usually looks like well
[10:17] when it leaks you get like this salt
[10:20] buildup. It looks like a buildup of
[10:21] salt. White sort of crusty salt.
[10:24] Unfortunately from the top you can't see
[10:26] everything but you can shine a light
[10:27] down here and here to see if you can see
[10:30] any oil or any salt build up the coolant
[10:32] which looks like salt. Even better if
[10:34] you can get under the engine and have a
[10:36] look. That's going to show you even
[10:38] more. Oh, and I forgot. Another check
[10:40] you can make, even if you know nothing
[10:41] about engines, is to look underneath the
[10:44] oil filler cap, not as relevant these
[10:47] days because head gaskets don't seem to
[10:49] fail much these days, but if you take
[10:51] the oil filler cap off and look
[10:53] underneath it and there's like a white
[10:55] mayonnaise substance, that's a sign that
[10:57] your head gasket could have failed.
[10:59] There can be just a little bit of white
[11:01] on there, which can just be
[11:03] condensation, but if there's a lot of
[11:04] white mayonnaise, that's a bad sign.
[11:08] It's a new day today, hence the
[11:10] different clothes. I ran out of time
[11:11] yesterday. I had to do a lesson. The
[11:14] next thing you can do is switch the
[11:16] engine on. Now, ideally, you'll get
[11:18] somebody else to switch the engine on
[11:19] whilst you look at the exhaust to see
[11:20] what comes out the back. But if you
[11:22] can't do that, you can just do it
[11:24] yourself. Get ready. Get the door open,
[11:27] switch the engine on,
[11:29] and go around and have a look. Get to
[11:33] the exhaust and see what's coming out.
[11:35] Now, water's normal. It's okay to have a
[11:38] bit of water and it's okay for the water
[11:39] to be a little bit sy, a little bit
[11:41] black, but you should not see oil coming
[11:44] out the back. White steam, which looks
[11:47] like white smoke, but it is steam, is
[11:48] normal on a cold day, especially on a
[11:50] cold start. You'll get a fair amount of
[11:52] that, but you shouldn't have big clouds
[11:54] bellowing out the back. If you got huge
[11:57] white clouds of smoke coming out the
[11:59] back of your car, that's a problem. When
[12:02] it comes to the suspension, it's
[12:04] unlikely you're going to be able to see
[12:05] much.
[12:07] No, I can't see anything. Try and look
[12:10] under there, but still
[12:13] can't see much at all. What you can do
[12:15] is find a solid part of the car at each
[12:17] corner and give it a good push like
[12:19] this. Push it down. The car should
[12:21] settle fairly quickly. It shouldn't keep
[12:23] wobbling. That's a sign that your shock
[12:24] absorbers have failed. If it does keep
[12:27] moving for a long time, what I like to
[12:29] do is open the door because then I can
[12:31] get my hands on a solid part of the roof
[12:33] and give the car a good shove.
[12:36] And you see it's settled quickly. Could
[12:39] you hear that squeak though? Your body
[12:41] is not likely strong enough to make the
[12:43] suspension squeak when you move it. So
[12:46] the squeak you can hear, if you can hear
[12:47] it, I'll do it again.
[12:50] That's likely the handbrake. And it's
[12:53] normal for handbrekes to make that noise
[12:55] when you're bouncing the car up and down
[12:57] with the handbrake on. Next thing you
[12:59] can check is the boot. See if it opens
[13:03] and goes up and stays up and
[13:07] closes properly. Needed to try that a
[13:09] bit harder, didn't I? I'll do that
[13:10] again. There we go. In fact, make sure
[13:14] all the doors open and close. Make sure
[13:17] all the doors lock and unlock. And check
[13:20] all of the windows, electric windows or
[13:22] manual windows. Do they go up and down?
[13:24] And when it comes to checking the boot,
[13:27] have a look underneath the boot floor
[13:30] and you can see if there's any signs of
[13:31] damage. If there was obvious damage,
[13:33] it'll be sort of like this. These metal
[13:35] bits down here may be pushed forwards.
[13:36] You'll be able to see it doesn't look
[13:38] right. Uh check for the spare wheel. Is
[13:40] it there? What condition is the tire in?
[13:43] And also rust and any water that may be
[13:45] getting in here. That can happen. This
[13:47] one looks
[13:48] all good, though. When it comes to
[13:50] checking the interior, take your time.
[13:52] Don't be rushed or distracted on this
[13:55] one. Check absolutely everything.
[13:57] Anything that has a function, make sure
[14:00] it functions. Make sure it works. If it
[14:02] doesn't, add it to the list. So, check
[14:06] all the seats. Do they move as they
[14:08] should? Like up and down, forwards and
[14:09] backwards, all the functions of the
[14:11] seats, are they working? The seat belt
[14:13] as well, do they work? Do they retract?
[14:15] Are they permanently twisted? sometimes
[14:17] where someone's worked on the car and
[14:19] they've taken the seat belt out and put
[14:20] it back in. They've not put it in
[14:21] properly and it's twisted permanently.
[14:23] Shouldn't be like that. It's not good
[14:24] for safety. You want it to be flat along
[14:26] your body. Also, when you get in the
[14:28] car,
[14:29] make sure you can get a comfortable
[14:32] driving position. You don't want to buy
[14:33] a car that you can't get comfortable in.
[14:35] Does the steering wheel move as it
[14:37] should?
[14:39] Electric mirrors quite common to fail or
[14:42] be a bit sticky.
[14:44] Touchcreen are all the functions they're
[14:46] working. the sound system, the speakers,
[14:48] the heater, the air conditioning. Hard
[14:50] to check the air conditioning on a cold
[14:52] day. But when it's on maximum cold, the
[14:55] air coming out the vents should be
[14:57] between 3 and 5° C. So that's about the
[15:00] temperature of something that you've
[15:01] taken out of the fridge. That's how it
[15:03] should feel. Check the 12V socket.
[15:07] Sometimes they fail and you don't want
[15:08] to find that out just as you need to
[15:10] charge something. Check the wipers, the
[15:12] washer jets, front and back, the
[15:15] interior lights, the sun visors. These
[15:19] things fail quite often and become
[15:20] broken. The light works as well. Take
[15:24] your time. Look at anything that moves,
[15:26] anything that has a function, and make
[15:28] sure it functions. Glove boxes don't
[15:30] always stay closed when you close them
[15:32] if someone's broken it. This one does.
[15:34] So, check that as well. really take your
[15:37] time and any problems you find, add it
[15:40] to the list. Now, it's time to test
[15:43] drive the car. If you're buying from a
[15:44] dealer, this is usually more
[15:46] straightforward because the dealer is
[15:48] prepared for this, but it's still your
[15:51] responsibility to make sure the car is
[15:53] legal for you to drive. You can't say to
[15:56] the police, "Ah, but the seller said it
[15:58] was fine." You're driving. You're
[16:00] responsible. When it comes to buying
[16:02] from a private seller, well, make sure
[16:05] the car has tax, make sure it has an
[16:07] MOT, and make sure you got insurance.
[16:09] You need to do this when you're buying
[16:10] from a dealer as well, but it should be
[16:11] more easy. If you're buying from a
[16:13] private seller, well, you're going to
[16:15] probably have to sort out your own
[16:17] insurance. And I'll leave a link in the
[16:20] description to confuse.com testdrive
[16:22] insurance. It is an affiliate link, so
[16:25] depending on what happens after you
[16:27] click that link, I may get a small
[16:29] commission, but it doesn't cost you
[16:30] anything. But it's important you make
[16:33] sure the car is legal to drive because
[16:36] it is your responsibility, not the
[16:39] sellers. You cannot take their word for
[16:41] it. For the test drive, automatic or
[16:44] manual, you want to go fast enough to
[16:45] make sure you test all of the forward
[16:47] gears to make sure they work. And also
[16:49] test reverse. For a manual, check the
[16:52] clutch. How does the bike point feel?
[16:55] Are the pedals comfortable to use? If
[16:57] you can't get comfortable using the car,
[16:59] consider a different car. Go to a car
[17:02] park. Steer the wheel all the way to the
[17:05] right. Move. Steer the wheel all the way
[17:07] to the left. Move. Are there any strange
[17:10] clicking sounds or any sounds at all? If
[17:12] there are, add it to the list. Go to a
[17:16] bumpy road. Are there any knocks or
[17:19] squeaks coming from the suspension?
[17:22] or do you just find the car too firm or
[17:26] too soft for your liking? If that's the
[17:28] case, well, you may want to consider a
[17:31] different car. Also, try and test the
[17:34] brakes. So, what I'm doing now, so I'm
[17:35] just pulling over to let this car pass
[17:38] to test the brakes. And to test the
[17:39] brakes, what you want to do is make sure
[17:40] no one's behind you and break fairly
[17:43] firmly. You shouldn't feel the steering
[17:46] pull to the left or right, but you've
[17:48] got to make sure it's safe before you do
[17:49] that. And ideally do it on a slightly
[17:52] faster road. So it's a 40 here. I can
[17:54] get do it on this little straight going
[17:56] a bit faster. Holding the wheel gently,
[17:58] braking firmly. Yeah, the car did not
[18:01] pull to the left or right. That's what
[18:04] you're looking for. Any problems at all.
[18:06] Again, add it to the list. So, you've
[18:10] looked around the car and you've got
[18:11] your list of problems. You're not
[18:13] relying on your memory. It's written
[18:15] down in front of you. This is going to
[18:18] help you make a good decision. And the
[18:20] decision you need to make is what
[18:23] problems are you willing to live with?
[18:25] What problems do you think the seller
[18:27] should sort? What problems do you think
[18:29] you should sort? And what problems do
[18:32] you think you should use to negotiate a
[18:35] lower price? Take into account the
[18:38] price, age, and mileage of the car. But
[18:42] what standard of car you're looking for
[18:44] is up to you. It's your opinion. Don't
[18:46] let the seller tell you, ah, for the
[18:48] age, price, and mileage of the car, it's
[18:50] okay for that to be broken or for that
[18:52] not to be working properly.
[18:55] It's up to you what you deem acceptable
[18:58] and what you're willing to pay for. If
[19:00] you agree with the seller, great. You
[19:02] can move on to the next step. If not,
[19:04] move on. Look for another car. Cars are
[19:07] expensive. Fixing them is expensive as
[19:10] well. So, in my opinion, it's well worth
[19:12] spending several days of your time
[19:14] finding the right car because in the
[19:18] long run, it will probably save you
[19:19] money. So, you've test-driven the car,
[19:22] you still want it, and you've come to an
[19:24] agreeable deal with the seller. There is
[19:26] one final check you must do, and that is
[19:29] a car history check. Link in the
[19:32] description to Carver Vertical. I'll put
[19:33] on screen what checks they are going to
[19:35] do. Car Vertical are not sponsoring this
[19:38] video, but hopefully that is an
[19:40] affiliate link, which means I'll get
[19:41] some commission if you do use their
[19:43] service. So, I'm not going to bore you
[19:45] with a 90 second ad about them. But for
[19:48] me, the most important thing you're
[19:50] trying to find out
[19:52] is
[19:54] does the car have outstanding finance?
[19:56] Also, mileage and whether or not it's
[19:59] been involved in the accident. That's
[20:00] handy as well. But the outstanding
[20:02] finance is the biggie for me because if
[20:04] the car has outstanding finance, that
[20:06] car technically still belongs to the
[20:09] bank, not the person selling it to you.
[20:12] And if the bank wants to repossess that
[20:15] car because the payments for the car
[20:17] have not been made, they don't care that
[20:20] you have handed over money to the
[20:22] seller. That's not their interest. The
[20:24] car is theirs. They want it back. So,
[20:26] you could lose your purchase price for
[20:29] the car and the car. It's not something
[20:33] you want to risk, which is why one of
[20:34] those checks is so important. I've used
[20:37] various car history checks in the past.
[20:40] The last vehicle I bought, I used Car
[20:41] Vertical simply because, well, they're
[20:43] everywhere. They they sponsor so many
[20:46] channels. It was the first one that came
[20:47] to my mind, but I was happy with how
[20:50] quick and easy they were to use, which
[20:51] is why I'm recommending them to you. Oh,
[20:54] and I usually leave the car history
[20:56] check until the very end of the buying
[20:57] process just before I hand over the
[20:59] money because I've got to pay for this
[21:01] history check and I don't want to pay
[21:03] for it to find out, oh, I'm not even
[21:04] interested in this car because it's got
[21:05] this wrong with it and that wrong with
[21:06] it and I've just wasted my money. But
[21:08] there is an exception. If the car is far
[21:11] away, then I may pay for the check
[21:14] before I leave because in that case, I
[21:16] think it's worth paying the money before
[21:17] I take that long journey. So, if you've
[21:20] done the deal, you've done your checks,
[21:22] you're happy to go ahead with the
[21:24] purchase, then it's time to hand over
[21:25] your money. I don't recommend using
[21:28] cash. I recommend doing it via a bank
[21:30] transfer or if they have a debit
[21:32] machine, use one of those because
[21:34] personally for me, I like to have some
[21:37] kind of record of where my money has
[21:38] gone to if I'm spending a lot of money.
[21:42] Then, you need to register the car in
[21:44] your name. These days, it's easy. You
[21:46] can do it online. I'll leave a link in
[21:48] the description. You'll need the Fe
[21:51] registered keeper document, the log book
[21:53] as it's known. The current owner or the
[21:55] dealer should have that. If they don't
[21:58] have it, don't buy it until they have
[22:01] it. That's my advice because it's just
[22:03] too risky. Once you've registered it in
[22:06] your name, then you need to tax it. You
[22:07] need to tax it straight away. Again, in
[22:09] the description will be a link to how
[22:11] you can tax your vehicle online. It's
[22:13] quick and easy. The only problem is,
[22:15] well, it costs money. Make sure you've
[22:17] got insurance. Obviously, make sure the
[22:20] car has a validote and then you should
[22:22] be ready to go. Kushi, when you're
[22:25] buying a new car, it's fairly simple.
[22:28] You know what condition the car is going
[22:29] to be in? It's well, new. When you're
[22:33] buying a used car, well, the condition
[22:35] is question mark. How many previous
[22:38] owners? What were those owners like?
[22:40] What did they do to the car? What's the
[22:41] mileage? What's the age? These things
[22:43] are going to play into the condition of
[22:45] the car. In Great Britain though, we
[22:47] seem to be obsessed with mileage.
[22:49] Mileage makes a big difference to the
[22:51] value of the car, which is how you can
[22:54] get a bargain because higher mileage
[22:56] cars are cheaper, yet they're not always
[23:00] worse. You could have an owner who's
[23:02] cherished their car, looked after it,
[23:04] done a lot of miles, but it's in
[23:05] brilliant condition. You could have an
[23:07] owner who's trashed the car and it's
[23:10] rubbish now. It's wrecked. That's a
[23:13] better word. wrecked after 10,000 miles.
[23:16] You don't know until you actually go and
[23:17] inspect the car and have a look at it.
[23:19] How many owners? That can matter as well
[23:21] because if it's had loads of owners,
[23:23] what's wrong with this car? Is this car
[23:24] hot potato? Is there a problem that no
[23:26] one can solve and they're passing it on
[23:28] from one person to another because they
[23:29] can't get to the bottom of it? Maybe.
[23:31] Not necessarily, but that would concern
[23:34] me. and age. For me, age is more
[23:37] important than mileage because, well,
[23:39] time is incredibly powerful and it
[23:41] degrades most things given enough time.
[23:45] And well, with an older car, time isn't
[23:49] exactly on its side. So, my advice is
[23:52] don't be searching for cars under a
[23:54] certain mileage because you would just
[23:56] be possibly missing out on the best
[23:58] deal. And I recently bought a car, come
[24:01] to think about it, and I looked at six
[24:04] cars, and the car I actually ended up
[24:06] buying was the one with the highest
[24:08] mileage,
[24:10] yet it was the one in the best
[24:12] condition. Well, that's the end of the
[24:14] video, but I have one more tip. If the
[24:17] car has locking wheel nuts, make sure
[24:20] the car has the key for the locking
[24:22] wheel nut. Because without this, well,
[24:24] you're not going to be able to get the
[24:25] wheels off when they need to come off,
[24:27] which means you're not going to be able
[24:28] to replace tires, brakes, suspension
[24:30] work, all kinds of jobs you're not going
[24:32] to be able to do without this. Meaning,
[24:34] well, you're going to have a problem. If
[24:37] you found the video helpful, please give
[24:38] it a thumbs up, subscribe to get my
[24:40] future videos, and until next one,
[24:43] cheerio.