[00:00] Hey guys ChrisFix here and today I'm going to show&nbsp; you how to fix your loose sloppy wet noodle of a&nbsp;&nbsp; shifter that right there is not neutral that way&nbsp; after you're done watching this video you'll be&nbsp;&nbsp; able to get some nice direct crisp shifts and&nbsp; I'm going to show you how to repair a leaking&nbsp;&nbsp;
[00:15] transmission which has leaked all over my once&nbsp; clean driveway put a catch pan under here after I&nbsp;&nbsp; figured it out and you could see it is leaking&nbsp; a lot so I'm going to show you how to replace&nbsp;&nbsp; a transmission seal to fix that that way our&nbsp; driveway stays clean so let's get started now in&nbsp;&nbsp;
[00:30] this car and many high mileage cars your shifter&nbsp; might feel a little loose and indirect this right&nbsp;&nbsp; here is neutral if we go into first look at how&nbsp; much play there is even if I lightly move side&nbsp;&nbsp; to side there is a ton of play and that's in every&nbsp; gear there's fourth there's fifth oh there's fifth&nbsp;&nbsp;
[00:48] you can see what I'm talking about is very sloppy&nbsp; and because it's so sloppy it's hard to get into&nbsp;&nbsp; every gear and know that you're in the correct&nbsp; gear so I'm going to show you how to fix all&nbsp;&nbsp; this sloppiness and so we could get an accurate&nbsp; before and after let's get into fourth gear and&nbsp;&nbsp;
[01:01] now we could use a tape measure to measure from&nbsp; one side of the play to the other side of the&nbsp;&nbsp; play and we have about 3 in or just under 8 cm&nbsp; of play which is a lot of play and no wonder this&nbsp;&nbsp; car feels so bad to drive so let's go under the&nbsp; car and I can show you why there's so much play&nbsp;&nbsp;
[01:16] in the shifter so let's get the car up on ramps&nbsp; and then chalk off the wheels and now we're going&nbsp;&nbsp; to lift the rear of the car with the jack and I&nbsp; like to use a rubber jack pad so I don't damage&nbsp;&nbsp; anything so lift the car up until she's level&nbsp; like that and then get your jack stands under&nbsp;&nbsp;
[01:31] the car already set up the other jack stand on&nbsp; the other side and now we can slowly drop the&nbsp;&nbsp; car onto the jack stands like that beautiful and&nbsp; I also like to raise the jack up so it's lightly&nbsp;&nbsp; touching the frame just as backup so with the car&nbsp; lifted up now I like to give it a good shake to&nbsp;&nbsp;
[01:46] make sure it doesn't budge and that is solid so&nbsp; now let's go underneath all right so that way is&nbsp;&nbsp; the front of the car so the oil pan is right&nbsp; here this is the exhaust and then we have our&nbsp;&nbsp; transmission and if you take a look you can see&nbsp; this is leaking pretty good over here so we're&nbsp;&nbsp;
[02:00] going to replace the seal to fix this now these&nbsp; right here are the transmission shift linkages&nbsp;&nbsp; this connects the transmission to the shifter so&nbsp; if we follow these long shift linkage rods all the&nbsp;&nbsp; way to the middle of the car right over here it&nbsp; brings us to our shifter so this is neutral first&nbsp;&nbsp;
[02:15] gear second gear and as I rode through the gears&nbsp; look at how much play there is this is because&nbsp;&nbsp; the bushings are old and dry rotted and because of&nbsp; all this rust and you can see here this bracket is&nbsp;&nbsp; completely rusted away this is what the bracket&nbsp; should look like and without it you can see how&nbsp;&nbsp;
[02:30] much play there is and I'm not even pulling hard&nbsp; so we're going to replace that bracket and we're&nbsp;&nbsp; going to replace the rubber shifter bushing&nbsp; with this poly bushing and that should help&nbsp;&nbsp; tremendously also all this rust is definitely not&nbsp; good so I'm going to show you how to go from this&nbsp;&nbsp;
[02:43] to this that way you could fix any rust on your&nbsp; car as well and here's all the tools and products&nbsp;&nbsp; you need to get this job done as always we're&nbsp; using common hand tools and you can't forget&nbsp;&nbsp; about your safety glasses product-wise we have&nbsp; some thread locker we have a new transmission&nbsp;&nbsp;
[02:56] seal a new shifter boot because ours is all&nbsp; torn up and we're going to be using Honda&nbsp;&nbsp; manual transmission fluid which is very important&nbsp; i'll explain more later we're also going to be&nbsp;&nbsp; installing brand new polyurethane bushings and a&nbsp; new shifter seat and this is also very important&nbsp;&nbsp;
[03:10] and to show you why here is an OEM rubber bushing&nbsp; and here is an aftermarket polyurethane bushing&nbsp;&nbsp; the rubber bushing has a lot of give a lot&nbsp; of play could easily bend this and that is&nbsp;&nbsp; going to make your shifts not feel as direct now&nbsp; a polyurethane bushing is a lot harder it does not&nbsp;&nbsp;
[03:26] bend as easy so you're going to get more direct&nbsp; crisp shifts and the last important part to get&nbsp;&nbsp; good crisp shifts is our shifter we're going to be&nbsp; installing this short throw shifter now I do have&nbsp;&nbsp; a really nice spherical bearing fully adjustable&nbsp; short throw shifter but this shifter costs more&nbsp;&nbsp;
[03:42] than I paid for this car and the whole point&nbsp; of this build is for it to be budget friendly&nbsp;&nbsp; it's so that you guys could replicate this in&nbsp; your driveway and not spend a ton of money so&nbsp;&nbsp; as much as I'd love to install this I'm going to&nbsp; show you we could get amazing results with a more&nbsp;&nbsp;
[03:55] that rust and encapsulate it with a special spray&nbsp; paint which means you either need a wire wheel on&nbsp;&nbsp; a grinder or you could use a metal wire brush&nbsp; like this so that's all the tools and products&nbsp;&nbsp;
[04:08] you're going to need to get this job done properly&nbsp; i'll be sure to link everything in the description&nbsp;&nbsp; so you could easily find it and with that said&nbsp; let's get started and the first thing we want&nbsp;&nbsp; to do is start inside the car because we want&nbsp; to remove the plastic trim around the shifter&nbsp;&nbsp;
[04:22] now normally there is a screw right there as&nbsp; well as the other side if we move the seat back&nbsp;&nbsp; you can see there is another screw hole there&nbsp; with the screw missing the screws are missing&nbsp;&nbsp; in this because if you guys remember last year I&nbsp; had to deal with my first hurricane and this car&nbsp;&nbsp;
[04:35] was flooded a little bit the carpets were really&nbsp; wet so I removed all the plastic pieces and seats&nbsp;&nbsp; and stuff that way I could get it nice and dry so&nbsp; the only screw holding in the plastic right now is&nbsp;&nbsp; right there so remove the screw using a Phillips&nbsp; head screwdriver then we can remove the back part&nbsp;&nbsp;
[04:50] of the center console by carefully lifting it out&nbsp; good then we could unscrew the shift knob all the&nbsp;&nbsp; way and remove it that way we could get the front&nbsp; part of the center console out actually we do have&nbsp;&nbsp; some wires here that need to be disconnected this&nbsp; goes to our kill switch so let's disconnect those&nbsp;&nbsp;
[05:04] wires and if you guys want to see how to install&nbsp; a kill switch in your car I'll link that video in&nbsp;&nbsp; could come out and then this rubber boot could be&nbsp; removed and this just keeps the road noise out of&nbsp;&nbsp; the cabin and there's one last rubber boot right&nbsp; here that is again designed to keep the noise and&nbsp;&nbsp;
[05:20] hot and cold air from coming into the cabin and if&nbsp; we just tuck this in like that I'm going to tuck&nbsp;&nbsp; it under here that way it doesn't get all caught&nbsp; up when we remove this so now we are ready to go&nbsp;&nbsp; let's go under the car and loosen this up now&nbsp; under the car you can see our shifter is right&nbsp;&nbsp;
[05:34] here and it's actually only held in by two bolts&nbsp; there's one right there and one right there now&nbsp;&nbsp; these bolts are really rusty i'm hoping they don't&nbsp; snap so I'm going to be careful here if I start to&nbsp;&nbsp; feel like it's going to snap I'll use some heat&nbsp; okay beautiful and I thought we're going to have&nbsp;&nbsp;
[05:49] a problem with these now I was a little nervous&nbsp; about this bolt because of how rusty it was but&nbsp;&nbsp; you could see there is still some of that zinc&nbsp; coating on the threads it's just this part that&nbsp;&nbsp; was all rusty so it came out pretty easily now&nbsp; let's hope that the other bolt comes out as easily
[06:07] all right two for two i should probably go play&nbsp; lotto now with this bolt coming out the shifter&nbsp;&nbsp; is loose and will drop down and that's all&nbsp; there is to it now with the shifter removed&nbsp;&nbsp; the back of the transmission right here and&nbsp; then at the transmission this shift linkage&nbsp;&nbsp;
[06:23] mounts to the transmission it's just bolted to&nbsp; it it doesn't move it provides support now this&nbsp;&nbsp; shift linkage is what moves when you change gears&nbsp; so we want to pull this all the way out like that&nbsp;&nbsp; and then slide the rubber boot back and then that&nbsp; reveals the retaining clip that we need to remove&nbsp;&nbsp;
[06:38] and the easiest way to remove it is to spin it&nbsp; around so you can see the ends of the clip then&nbsp;&nbsp; we could use a small pry bar to get under the&nbsp; clip and get ready cuz this is probably going&nbsp;&nbsp; to go flying okay so it went flying but we got it&nbsp; off and this retaining clip is designed to prevent&nbsp;&nbsp;
[06:52] the pin from coming out because if it comes out&nbsp; your shifter is going to stop working now this&nbsp;&nbsp; pin is officially called a spring pin but it has&nbsp; a much less friendly name on the streets because&nbsp;&nbsp; of how difficult it is to remove but don't worry&nbsp; I'm going to show you a trick to remove it easily&nbsp;&nbsp;
[07:05] and the trick is using a 7 millimeter diameter&nbsp; punch like this this punch fits perfectly on&nbsp;&nbsp; the outer edge of the spring pin don't use a&nbsp; screwdriver or anything like that that fits on&nbsp;&nbsp; the inside because that's going to force the pin&nbsp; to open up more and make it even harder to remove&nbsp;&nbsp;
[07:18] so be sure to use a 7 mm punch get it centered&nbsp; right on the spring pin just like that and then&nbsp;&nbsp; use a big hammer something like a 5lb hammer and&nbsp; just hammer it away now don't let this scare you&nbsp;&nbsp; this is super easy to do and it should take less&nbsp; than a minute and you can see the pin is moving
[07:32] already perfect and that's what the spring pin&nbsp; looks like now with the pin removed the shifter&nbsp;&nbsp; should slide right off the transmission just like&nbsp; that and then we can remove the dust boot and that&nbsp;&nbsp;
[07:48] uncovers our leaking shift seal so this is the&nbsp; shifter shaft which selects which gear you're&nbsp;&nbsp; in and there is some corrosion at the base of&nbsp; the shaft which is probably what wore down the&nbsp;&nbsp; seal and damaged it because this rod moves back&nbsp; and forth every time you change gear so we're&nbsp;&nbsp;
[08:00] gonna have to sand down the corrosion to make&nbsp; it smooth and then replace the seal but before&nbsp;&nbsp; we do that let's remove the other shift linkage&nbsp; so get a wrench on the bolt and break it free&nbsp;&nbsp; and then we could remove this bolt completely&nbsp; so the linkage could be removed and finally&nbsp;&nbsp;
[08:14] the whole shifter assembly is disconnected&nbsp; from the car so let's remove it from under&nbsp;&nbsp; the car being careful not to hit anything and&nbsp; let's get this thing out of our way with that&nbsp;&nbsp; out of the way next let's remove the mount right&nbsp; here at the transmission you technically don't&nbsp;&nbsp;
[08:26] have to remove this but it's very rusty i want&nbsp; to sand it down and paint it plus it does give&nbsp;&nbsp; me just a little bit more room to work down&nbsp; here since it's pretty tight so just get this&nbsp;&nbsp; last bolt out and this could be removed so with&nbsp; the bracket removed let's replace this leaking&nbsp;&nbsp;
[08:40] transmission shift seal here's what the seal&nbsp; looks like it goes in about that deep and this&nbsp;&nbsp; right here is the part number i'll leave this&nbsp; linked in the description so you can easily&nbsp;&nbsp; find it that way you can install OEM parts&nbsp; so all we have to do is hammer the old seal&nbsp;&nbsp;
[08:53] out and push the new seal in but before we do&nbsp; that when we remove this old seal if you don't&nbsp;&nbsp; drain the fluid it's going to come pouring out&nbsp; so first let's drain the transmission fluid now&nbsp;&nbsp; to drain a manual transmission there's usually a&nbsp; drain bolt and a fill bolt on the side so let's&nbsp;&nbsp;
[09:06] head over to the side of the transmission and&nbsp; right there is the transmission drain bolt and&nbsp;&nbsp; right here is the transmission fill bolt and&nbsp; you always want to remove the fill bolt first&nbsp;&nbsp; so let's break this free and then we could&nbsp; remove it the rest of the way by hand good&nbsp;&nbsp;
[09:19] and make sure you don't lose that washer now let's&nbsp; slide the drain pan under the drain bolt that way&nbsp;&nbsp; we don't make a mess and this drain bolt uses the&nbsp; square end of a 3/8 ratchet so let's get that in&nbsp;&nbsp; there and let's break this free good and with that&nbsp; loose now you can remove it the rest of the way by&nbsp;&nbsp;
[09:34] hand perfect and judging by how dark this fluid is&nbsp; I bet it's been in here for a long time so this is&nbsp;&nbsp; your reminder to replace your manual transmission&nbsp; fluid all right so let it drain all the way and&nbsp;&nbsp; once it's completely empty let's screw the drain&nbsp; bolt back in clean up any drips and torque it to&nbsp;&nbsp;
[09:50] spec and for this car that's 29 foot-lbs good so&nbsp; with the transmission drained now let's replace&nbsp;&nbsp; the seal now this seal is pressed in and to remove&nbsp; it you could use a little pry bar like this and&nbsp;&nbsp; just pry around the edges and push it out you&nbsp; could also use your punch from before and punch&nbsp;&nbsp;
[10:05] the edges that way it slowly works its way out or&nbsp; you could grab your pliers like these these are&nbsp;&nbsp; locking pliers we could get them right around the&nbsp; edge here and now grab our hammer and hammer this out beautiful and now this should slide right&nbsp; off the shaft like so now we want to clean off&nbsp;&nbsp;
[10:25] the rust and roughness on this shaft and to do&nbsp; that we're going to be using 1500 grit sandpaper&nbsp;&nbsp; it's rough enough to clean the rust but not&nbsp; too rough to remove too much material but we&nbsp;&nbsp; don't want this giant piece of sandpaper so I cut&nbsp; this small thin piece like that and we'll wrap it&nbsp;&nbsp;
[10:41] around and we'll sand that smooth you can see all&nbsp; the pitting and corrosion on here we want to get&nbsp;&nbsp; that nice and smooth so it doesn't damage the new&nbsp; seal so the technique is to get the sandpaper and&nbsp;&nbsp; wrap it around the shaft and work it back and&nbsp; forth like this the key here is to sand it just&nbsp;&nbsp;
[10:55] enough to remove the corrosion but don't sand&nbsp; it too much where you remove too much material&nbsp;&nbsp; and the seal won't have a tight fit anymore okay&nbsp; and this is looking pretty good so let's shoot&nbsp;&nbsp; some compressed air back there into the cavity to&nbsp; remove any dirt that might have gotten back there&nbsp;&nbsp;
[11:07] from sanding and then let's wipe down the area to&nbsp; clean it up now if you rub your fingernail across&nbsp;&nbsp; the surface it feels pretty smooth that way our&nbsp; new seal won't get damaged all right and now we&nbsp;&nbsp; are ready to drive in our new seal and I'm going&nbsp; to be using this 18 mm deep socket it fits right&nbsp;&nbsp;
[11:23] on the inside right on that hardened lip that's&nbsp; a hardened steel lip that's what you want to hit&nbsp;&nbsp; against you don't want to hit on the outside&nbsp; of this lip so let's get the new seal on the&nbsp;&nbsp; shaft and then we can use the socket to push it&nbsp; in by hand and get it started make sure it's not&nbsp;&nbsp;
[11:36] cocked to the side and then with it pushed in&nbsp; as straight as possible hammer in the rest of&nbsp;&nbsp; the way you don't need to use a lot of force and&nbsp; you can see it start to drive in already and then&nbsp;&nbsp; once you hear that pitch change that means it's&nbsp; bottomed out so stop hammering cuz you don't want&nbsp;&nbsp;
[11:49] to damage the seal and if you remember from before&nbsp; we use these pliers to grab onto the old seal and&nbsp;&nbsp; it fit between the seal and the transmission&nbsp; just like that so this just helps me verify&nbsp;&nbsp; that we hammered it in to the correct depth and&nbsp; the seal is completely seated so now let's fill&nbsp;&nbsp;
[12:02] the transmission with fluid now if we take a look&nbsp; in the back of the owner's manual it says to use&nbsp;&nbsp; 10W30 or 10W40 motor oil in the transmission and&nbsp; while technically this 10W30 would work just fine&nbsp;&nbsp; in the transmission it doesn't have any additives&nbsp; for the synchros but that's why I'm using Honda&nbsp;&nbsp;
[12:17] manual transmission fluid this stuff came out in&nbsp; the late '9s early 2000s after this car was built&nbsp;&nbsp; so it's an upgraded fluid and it'll work much&nbsp; better because it has additives for the synchros&nbsp;&nbsp; so this is what we're going to add and although we&nbsp; unscrewed the bolt from the bottom it's actually&nbsp;&nbsp;
[12:30] a lot easier to fill up the transmission from the&nbsp; top if we take a look down here you can see right&nbsp;&nbsp; there is the transmission fill hole so to fill&nbsp; it with fluid grab a long flexible funnel like&nbsp;&nbsp; this one and then we're just going to get this&nbsp; right down here next to the engine and I really&nbsp;&nbsp;
[12:43] like this funnel it's flexible yet sturdy that way&nbsp; we can put it into the fill hole without kinking&nbsp;&nbsp; it so feed it in there and now we could add our&nbsp; transmission fluid the manual does say it takes&nbsp;&nbsp; two quarts so that's one and let's add the second&nbsp; one and as we come to the end of our second bottle&nbsp;&nbsp;
[12:58] let's go take a look down by the fill hole because&nbsp; once fluid starts dripping out and just like that&nbsp;&nbsp; you know it's full okay so now we could remove&nbsp; the funnel then we can screw the drain bolt back&nbsp;&nbsp; in and you want to make sure that washer is still&nbsp; on there so tighten it by hand and then torque it&nbsp;&nbsp;
[13:12] to spec which is 33 ft-lb good and finally&nbsp; let's clean up this spilled fluid so we can&nbsp;&nbsp; identify any potential future leaks so with our&nbsp; transmission full of fluid I don't see any leaks&nbsp;&nbsp; at all which is awesome so one last thing we&nbsp; need to do under this car is remove all this&nbsp;&nbsp;
[13:27] rust and prevent it from coming back because&nbsp; look at how crusty this is that's pretty bad&nbsp;&nbsp; and to clean up the rust here's everything you're&nbsp; going to need very important you need a full face&nbsp;&nbsp; respirator and P100 filters because we're going&nbsp; to create a lot of dust and we're going to spray&nbsp;&nbsp;
[13:42] paint in a relatively enclosed area underneath the&nbsp; vehicle you do not want to breathe that in so wear&nbsp;&nbsp; your mask tool-wise we have a flaad screwdriver&nbsp; scraper 180 grit sandpaper and an angle grinder&nbsp;&nbsp; with a wire wheel attachment that'll remove most&nbsp; of the rust then we're going to go in and clean&nbsp;&nbsp;
[13:57] with acetone or you could use alcohol and then&nbsp; finally after everything's clean we're going&nbsp;&nbsp; to spray paint and it's very important that you&nbsp; use a spray paint designed for painting over rust&nbsp;&nbsp; this is called a rust encapsulator spray paint&nbsp; you're never going to be able to remove all the&nbsp;&nbsp;
[14:10] rust so using a spray paint that goes over rust is&nbsp; important because this has epoxy in it which will&nbsp;&nbsp; block the oxygen from getting to the metal of the&nbsp; car which is what creates rust in the first place&nbsp;&nbsp; find it now let's go under the car and remove the&nbsp; rust now before we begin cleaning up any rust the&nbsp;&nbsp;
[14:28] sheet metal to make sure the screwdriver won't go&nbsp; through if it goes through that means you need to&nbsp;&nbsp; do a rust repair because the rust is so bad that&nbsp; the metal is weak and don't worry if that happens&nbsp;&nbsp;
[14:40] i have a video on how to do that and I'll link&nbsp; that video so you can easily find it but in this&nbsp;&nbsp; case we're good to go so next what you want to do&nbsp; is grab a scraper and remove all the loose surface&nbsp;&nbsp; more aggressive and basically all you need to do&nbsp; is scrape every inch of the surface if there's&nbsp;&nbsp;
[14:57] any loose bubbling rust it needs to be removed and&nbsp; right here is the perfect example you can see how&nbsp;&nbsp; just by scraping this all this loose crumbly&nbsp; rust comes right off and that's what we want&nbsp;&nbsp; okay so once we finished scraping up all those&nbsp; loose chunks of rust now let's tape up any holes&nbsp;&nbsp;
[15:12] into the interior like this giant hole at the&nbsp; shifter so we're just going to grab some tape&nbsp;&nbsp; and cover the hole to seal it off because we don't&nbsp; want any rust or any paint getting into the cabin&nbsp;&nbsp; of the car good next we can get our wire wheel&nbsp; and we want to sand as much of the rust away as&nbsp;&nbsp;
[15:25] possible now this is where you're never going to&nbsp; get all the rust you'll get a lot of it you'll&nbsp;&nbsp; make it look a lot better but there will always&nbsp; be some rust there and that's okay because we're&nbsp;&nbsp; using a special rust encapsulating paint but you&nbsp; definitely want to try to get down to shiny bare&nbsp;&nbsp;
[15:37] metal as much as possible and I think you could&nbsp; see why I said you have to wear a respirator&nbsp;&nbsp; because look at how much dust there is good after&nbsp; you're done with the wire wheel next grab 180 grit&nbsp;&nbsp; sandpaper and we're going to scuff up all the&nbsp; metal that way the paint has a rough surface to&nbsp;&nbsp;
[15:50] mechanically adhere to now with a rough surface&nbsp; we could wipe it down with some acetone and we're&nbsp;&nbsp; basically trying to remove all the dust and any&nbsp; grease from being underneath the car because dust&nbsp;&nbsp; and grease will prevent the paint from sticking&nbsp; good and now it's finally time to paint and again&nbsp;&nbsp;
[16:04] to start at the bottom here and spray from side to&nbsp; side and work our way up and as you're doing this&nbsp;&nbsp; you want to overlap each spray about 50% to make&nbsp; sure there's full coverage and for this first coat&nbsp;&nbsp;
[16:17] coat we're going to put it on a little bit heavier&nbsp; to make sure we cover everything but for now just&nbsp;&nbsp; try to get into all the nooks and crannies try to&nbsp; spray at different angles and different directions&nbsp;&nbsp; that way you get the best coverage possible&nbsp; all right now this is looking pretty good and&nbsp;&nbsp;
[16:33] the instructions say to let this dry for an hour&nbsp; and an hour later we are back and ready to spray&nbsp;&nbsp; our second coat for this coat we want complete&nbsp; coverage so what I like to do is spray a light&nbsp;&nbsp; coat and once you finish that immediately go back&nbsp; over that same area again one more time and this&nbsp;&nbsp;
[16:48] different angles make sure you get into all the&nbsp; nooks and crannies and this is looking pretty&nbsp;&nbsp; good down here so let me finish this up and then&nbsp; the instructions on the can say "Let this dry&nbsp;&nbsp; for 24 hours." Now as we let that dry let's go&nbsp; and rebuild our shifter and the first thing we&nbsp;&nbsp;
[17:05] need to do is take a look over here cuz there is&nbsp; a lot of rust now you can see the shifter ball and&nbsp;&nbsp; socket is really rusty in here i mean this whole&nbsp; thing is just crumbling apart rust means material&nbsp;&nbsp; is lost and there's going to be extra play and&nbsp; that is what we're trying to avoid also this&nbsp;&nbsp;
[17:18] rod over here that the bushing goes through looks&nbsp; like it's bad so let's remove the bushing off the&nbsp;&nbsp; rod o that's not good okay hey and if you take&nbsp; a look this is really rusty and we're going to&nbsp;&nbsp; sand the rust off of this to make it smooth it's&nbsp; going to remove a significant amount of material&nbsp;&nbsp;
[17:36] and then when we install our new bushing there's&nbsp; going to be a lot more play in here and any play&nbsp;&nbsp; in here is going to transfer to play in the stick&nbsp; shift so that's not good you know what that means&nbsp;&nbsp; it's out with the old let's vacuum up all the&nbsp; loose rust and in with the new well almost new&nbsp;&nbsp;
[17:51] so I got this out of a junkyard Dell soul and it&nbsp; looks to be almost completely rust-free which is&nbsp;&nbsp; a huge difference so we're going to rebuild this&nbsp; instead look at the condition a lot better just&nbsp;&nbsp; need some new bushings i'll teach you how to make&nbsp; this a little bit tighter we'll install all those&nbsp;&nbsp;
[18:07] parts into our shifter and make it basically a&nbsp; brand new shifter so let's get started first let's&nbsp;&nbsp; remove the old rubber bushing from the end then&nbsp; unscrew this bolt that holds in the shifter to&nbsp;&nbsp; the linkage and now the linkage slides right off&nbsp; let's get these washers out of the way we don't&nbsp;&nbsp;
[18:21] need them anymore and next let's remove these two&nbsp; bolts here so break it loose and unscrew it the&nbsp;&nbsp; rest of the way by hand same for the other side&nbsp; and now we can remove this cover plate that we're&nbsp;&nbsp; going to reuse and finally the shifter is free&nbsp; to come right out like that and I guess this was&nbsp;&nbsp;
[18:36] from a female owned dell soole oh yeah and let's&nbsp; get this rubber boot off the top as well okay so&nbsp;&nbsp; this is the OEM Dell Soul shifter and right&nbsp; here is a plastic cage with a rubber boot now&nbsp;&nbsp; this plastic cage will wear out over time and it&nbsp; makes the shifter feel loose so we're definitely&nbsp;&nbsp;
[18:50] going to be installing a new one all right so our&nbsp; junkyard shifter assembly has been disassembled&nbsp;&nbsp; and this is much better than the one off my Dell&nbsp; Soul there is a little bit of rust right here but&nbsp;&nbsp; it's nothing we can't sand down and paint but just&nbsp; check out this difference this was the rust bucket&nbsp;&nbsp;
[19:03] that came out of my Del Soul and unfortunately&nbsp; it's just too far gone to make it work that's&nbsp;&nbsp; why there's junkyards one man's junk is another&nbsp; man's treasure let's go get this cleaned up get&nbsp;&nbsp; a little bit of paint on it install our new shift&nbsp; components and bushings and get it back in the car&nbsp;&nbsp;
[19:17] so we could go for a ride but first the other&nbsp; end of the shifter is actually in pretty decent&nbsp;&nbsp; shape and moves smoothly same with this joint&nbsp; right here these move smoothly which is great&nbsp;&nbsp; but there is room for improvement because I did&nbsp; notice there's a little play in this and if you&nbsp;&nbsp;
[19:29] take a look right there you'll notice all the play&nbsp; that's in here it's not a lot but it is amplified&nbsp;&nbsp; because of how long the shift linkages are so&nbsp; we're going to try to get rid of that play by&nbsp;&nbsp; hammering down on this we don't want to bind it&nbsp; up we still want to be smooth we just don't want&nbsp;&nbsp;
[19:43] it to have as much play now unfortunately these&nbsp; joints are riveted in see there's a rivet there&nbsp;&nbsp; and a rivet here you can drill them out and add a&nbsp; bolt and tighten them down but those bolts could&nbsp;&nbsp; loosen over time it's also a lot of work so&nbsp; let me show you a little trick with these so&nbsp;&nbsp;
[19:58] to place this rivet on that hard flat surface and&nbsp; we're going to hammer on the top rivet and that's&nbsp;&nbsp; going to squish this together it's going to close&nbsp; this gap just a little bit and you can see there's&nbsp;&nbsp;
[20:10] that little space around the edge of the rivet&nbsp; we want to tighten that up by hammering it down all right now that is much better and while it's&nbsp; not much the head of the rivet is mushroomed&nbsp;&nbsp;
[20:25] it's still smooth it's not binding up&nbsp; at all but we did remove most of that&nbsp;&nbsp; joint so it's still smooth and moves back and&nbsp; forth no problem but there is no side to side play&nbsp;&nbsp;
[20:51] beautiful so now with this nice and tight let's go&nbsp; rebuild our shifter and before installing the new&nbsp;&nbsp; parts let's make this look brand new so now the&nbsp; shift linkage looks brand new let's make it feel&nbsp;&nbsp; brand new so it's out with the old rusty parts&nbsp; and in with the brand new ones now when you're&nbsp;&nbsp;
[21:06] rebuilding a shifter no matter what car you have&nbsp; you want to use high quality parts because you're&nbsp;&nbsp; going to feel it especially when you're picking&nbsp; your actual stick shift this is very important&nbsp;&nbsp; while these all look the same online through the&nbsp; pictures there are big differences let me show you&nbsp;&nbsp;
[21:20] now these four aftermarket shifters all look the&nbsp; same and they're all made for my Honda but only&nbsp;&nbsp; one is actually good the rest are junk here's the&nbsp; OEM shifter we removed from the Dell Soul and the&nbsp;&nbsp; diameter of this ball is 35 mm now if we check&nbsp; the blue $15 shifter from one company it's 33 mm&nbsp;&nbsp;
[21:36] the black $15 shifter from another company also 33&nbsp; mm the blue $25 shifter from yet another company&nbsp;&nbsp; 33 millimeters and finally the silver $100 shifter&nbsp; is 35 millimeters same as OEM and this is the only&nbsp;&nbsp;
[21:49] usable shifter from this entire group and the&nbsp; reason why this is a big problem is because the&nbsp;&nbsp; shifter sits in this plastic cage which acts like&nbsp; a socket in the shift linkage so any play in this&nbsp;&nbsp; you're going to feel now this is the OEM stick&nbsp; shift and you can see it's pretty tight now let's&nbsp;&nbsp;
[22:03] take a look at how loose it is on an aftermarket&nbsp; shifter and holy smokes look at that there is so&nbsp;&nbsp; much play it's only 2 mm but there is so much play&nbsp; and that's going to make it feel even worse than&nbsp;&nbsp; the stock shifter we removed then if we put this&nbsp; on the well-engineered stick shift you could see&nbsp;&nbsp;
[22:18] nice and tight you get what you pay for in this&nbsp; situation so now let me show you how to rebuild&nbsp;&nbsp; and install this shifter in your car and the first&nbsp; thing we need to do is install the plastic cage&nbsp;&nbsp; and rubber boot on the shifter so let's get this&nbsp; plastic cage in the boot and this is definitely a&nbsp;&nbsp;
[22:33] tight squeeze but it will fit so work it all the&nbsp; way in there good and it should look something&nbsp;&nbsp; like this when you're done now we want to add&nbsp; lubrication and make sure you use silicone grease&nbsp;&nbsp; if you use petroleum based grease it'll break down&nbsp; the plastic and rubber quicker over time and with&nbsp;&nbsp;
[22:46] that lubricated let's install it on the shifter&nbsp; and the trick here is to go from the bottom not&nbsp;&nbsp; from the top and now comes the tricky part cuz&nbsp; this is a really tight squeeze and what I find&nbsp;&nbsp; works well is using a mini pry bar and just work&nbsp; that in there and that'll help you hold one side&nbsp;&nbsp;
[22:59] of the boot as you use your fingers to stretch&nbsp; the other side good and now the boot and cage&nbsp;&nbsp; can slide over the ball of the shifter perfect&nbsp; now we're ready to install the shifter into the&nbsp;&nbsp; shift linkage then we can get that cover plate&nbsp; back on which holds the boot and cage in place&nbsp;&nbsp;
[23:15] and I'm using some nice new zinc coated hardware&nbsp; to hold this in then we can get a washer on the&nbsp;&nbsp; front add some medium strength thread locker and&nbsp; then handtighten the nut on there let's do the&nbsp;&nbsp; same exact thing to the other side as well then&nbsp; we can tighten down both of these passengers so&nbsp;&nbsp;
[23:28] they're snug and that's one and then that's the&nbsp; other good now we can install this poly bushing&nbsp;&nbsp; but first let's get some silicone grease on the&nbsp; metal that way this not only slides on smoothly&nbsp;&nbsp; but it doesn't squeak after you install it now the&nbsp; last thing to install is this rubber piece which&nbsp;&nbsp;
[23:42] slides over the shifter and sits on here but as&nbsp; you can see this rubber is really dry so a little&nbsp;&nbsp; trick I have to bring rubber parts back to life is&nbsp; using this protectant spray just spray it onto the&nbsp;&nbsp; rubber to make sure to coat the entire thing front&nbsp; and back then use a brush to work the chemicals&nbsp;&nbsp;
[23:55] into the rubber and after you let it soak for a&nbsp; few minutes you can wipe away any excess liquid&nbsp;&nbsp; and this will keep that rubber looking good and&nbsp; protected for a long time now we could install&nbsp;&nbsp; it onto the shifter so it snaps in place good&nbsp; next we could get the lower shift linkage onto&nbsp;&nbsp;
[24:09] the shifter and the new shifter comes with these&nbsp; two inserts that need to get installed and these&nbsp;&nbsp; prevent the bearing in the shifter from binding up&nbsp; so one goes on this side and the other goes on the&nbsp;&nbsp; other side and now the linkage could be installed&nbsp; onto the shifter then we could slide the bolt in&nbsp;&nbsp;
[24:23] get the washer on and tighten the nylon nut on&nbsp; by hand normally I would add thread locker but&nbsp;&nbsp; since this is a nylon locking nut you don't need&nbsp; to so tighten it down and snug it up all right and&nbsp;&nbsp; that is a completely rebuilt shifter and just&nbsp; so you can remember where we started from this&nbsp;&nbsp;
[24:39] is the original Dell Soul Loosey Goosey rusted&nbsp; to bits shifter and this is basically our brand&nbsp;&nbsp; new rebuilt shifter and we have one thing left&nbsp; we need to do before we could install this and&nbsp;&nbsp; that's replace this bushing now the stock rubber&nbsp; bushing is a one piece design our aftermarket poly&nbsp;&nbsp;
[24:54] bushing is a two-piece design so to remove the&nbsp; bushing first push out the center metal race and&nbsp;&nbsp; and the metal and carefully pry the bushing out&nbsp; and this should come out the rest of the way by&nbsp;&nbsp;
[25:07] hand good then we want to lubricate the inside&nbsp; with some silicone paste and now we can install&nbsp;&nbsp; the poly bushing one side at a time now these are&nbsp; really tight fitting so it's important that you&nbsp;&nbsp; get them squared up before pushing them in or it&nbsp; won't fit same thing for the bottom get it squared&nbsp;&nbsp;
[25:21] up and then push it in and finally you want to add&nbsp; a little silicone to the metal race and let's get&nbsp;&nbsp; that pushed in as well this is a really tight&nbsp; fit so it's going to take some force good so&nbsp;&nbsp; with our bushing installed we are completely done&nbsp; rebuilding the entire shifter linkage and shifter&nbsp;&nbsp;
[25:37] i cannot wait to go for a test drive in this car&nbsp; so let's go back under the car and reinstall it&nbsp;&nbsp; actually first let's go in the car and remove&nbsp; this tape and now we could go under the car&nbsp;&nbsp; and just check out how amazing this paint came&nbsp; out just so you could remember here's a before&nbsp;&nbsp;
[25:49] and after what a difference so let's get our&nbsp; shifter assembly back under the car and you want&nbsp;&nbsp; to be careful because everything is all freshly&nbsp; painted and it would be a shame if we nicked the&nbsp;&nbsp; paint so carefully work your shifter up into the&nbsp; trans tunnel perfect now we can get the bushing&nbsp;&nbsp;
[26:04] bracket installed and that just slides over the&nbsp; bushing next we have these old rusty bolts which&nbsp;&nbsp; I'm not reinstalling instead I'm going to replace&nbsp; it with some nice new hardware so get some medium&nbsp;&nbsp; strength thread locker on these that way all the&nbsp; vibrations down here won't loosen it up and now&nbsp;&nbsp;
[26:17] we need to line it up like so and then we could&nbsp; handtighten one side then get the other side lined&nbsp;&nbsp; up and handtighten that side and finally you want&nbsp; to torque these to spec which in this case is 16&nbsp;&nbsp; ft-lbs perfect now the shifter is mounted securely&nbsp; to the car so let's head to the front of the car&nbsp;&nbsp;
[26:32] and mount the other side of the shift linkage&nbsp; to the transmission so let's get our freshly&nbsp;&nbsp; painted mount in place and I'm using new hardware&nbsp; with thread locker on these threads so tighten&nbsp;&nbsp; the bottom one down by hand and then get the top&nbsp; one tightened down as well then you want to just&nbsp;&nbsp;
[26:44] tighten them down with a ratchet that way they're&nbsp; both snug and torque them to spec which for this&nbsp;&nbsp; is 33 ft-lb next we want to add some silicone&nbsp; grease to the ears of the mount then we want to&nbsp;&nbsp; slide the poly bushing into the mount which is a&nbsp; lot easier said than done this is a really tight&nbsp;&nbsp;
[26:59] fit so I'm going to tap it with a hammer to get it&nbsp; in place and it's good that this is tight because&nbsp;&nbsp; it's going to make the shifter feel so much&nbsp; tighter now we can get thread locker on our bolt&nbsp;&nbsp; slide it into place and torque to spec which for&nbsp; this is also 33 ft-lb good next I'm going to add&nbsp;&nbsp;
[27:14] some silicone grease to the shift selector shaft&nbsp; that way it prevents any future rust then we can&nbsp;&nbsp; get the dust boot on here and this just hooks to&nbsp; the lip of the seal that we installed like that&nbsp;&nbsp; and now we can slide the shift linkage on here and&nbsp; you just want to make sure the holes are lined up&nbsp;&nbsp;
[27:27] like so and now technically you're supposed to&nbsp; replace this spring pin but this one's in good&nbsp;&nbsp; shape so I'm just going to reinstall it so drive&nbsp; it in with the same tools you use to remove it
[27:43] good and you want to make sure that it's flush&nbsp; with the surface like that now let's install the&nbsp;&nbsp; retaining clip and you can see there's a little&nbsp; notch in this clip that notch has to go into the&nbsp;&nbsp; spring pin hole so snap the retaining clip on the&nbsp; shaft and then spin it so the notch fits into the&nbsp;&nbsp;
[27:56] hole like that good and that's nice and secure&nbsp; and finally let's get the dust boot stretched&nbsp;&nbsp; over this so it's covered and we are done all&nbsp; right so we're finished under the car so let's&nbsp;&nbsp; head up into the cabin of the car and reinstall&nbsp; the interior first let's get the rubber boot&nbsp;&nbsp;
[28:11] installed on here that way the road noise and any&nbsp; fumes and hot air stay out of the car and that&nbsp;&nbsp; just snaps into place around the lip and then&nbsp; we have another boot which is even thicker for&nbsp;&nbsp; more insulation and that slides over the top&nbsp; like that so with that all done let's go and&nbsp;&nbsp;
[28:24] install our center console but before we do that&nbsp; you can see it is a mess in here so let's clean&nbsp;&nbsp; this up real quick and the trick to vacuuming is&nbsp; to use a brush to loosen up any dust and dirt and&nbsp;&nbsp; that gives you a better clean now we can grab some&nbsp; soapy water and spray the area down then we could&nbsp;&nbsp;
[28:38] use a brush to agitate that stubborn dirt and then&nbsp; finally wipe it all down with a microfiber towel&nbsp;&nbsp; so with that all cleaned up looking really good&nbsp; the last thing we need to do is replace this old&nbsp;&nbsp; crusty torn leather shift boot with a nice brand&nbsp; new OEM leather shift boot so to remove this shift&nbsp;&nbsp;
[28:54] boot just flip it over and there's two screws&nbsp; right here so grab a Phillips head screwdriver&nbsp;&nbsp; and unscrew and remove both of these screws so&nbsp; it's out with the old and in with the new ah&nbsp;&nbsp;
[29:07] you got to be kidding me here so unfortunately if&nbsp; you take a look these two are definitely not the&nbsp;&nbsp; same they're close but they're not the same so it&nbsp; doesn't fit even though online it said this would&nbsp;&nbsp; fit but what's new right anytime you're working on&nbsp; cars stuff like this happens you just got to be a&nbsp;&nbsp;
[29:20] little creative so I have an idea so that idea&nbsp; is to remove the new leather from the bracket&nbsp;&nbsp; and transplant it onto the old bracket and you&nbsp; can see the leather's hooked in by these little&nbsp;&nbsp; tabs so let's just unhook the leather from the&nbsp; tabs being careful not to tear it and with all&nbsp;&nbsp;
[29:34] the tabs unhooked the leather comes right off the&nbsp; bracket now let's do the same thing with the old&nbsp;&nbsp; bracket just unhook the old worn leather from the&nbsp; tabs and now it's out with the old torn crusty&nbsp;&nbsp; leather and in with the new and let's see if we&nbsp; could get this to fit and that actually looks&nbsp;&nbsp;
[29:49] pretty close we might be able to pull this one&nbsp; off so hook the leather around the tab and I'm&nbsp;&nbsp; going to crimp the tab down just to hold it in a&nbsp; little bit better good but now we have a problem&nbsp;&nbsp; the slits in the leather don't line up with the&nbsp; tabs so what I'm going to try to do here is slide&nbsp;&nbsp;
[30:01] the leather underneath the tab push it in like&nbsp; that then crimp down the tab that way it's going&nbsp;&nbsp; to hold the leather in place perfect and that's&nbsp; not going anywhere so let's work our way around&nbsp;&nbsp; the entire shift boot securing the leather to the&nbsp; bracket all right even though the brackets weren't&nbsp;&nbsp;
[30:15] the same we still made this work so now let's get&nbsp; our brand new shift boot installed into our center&nbsp;&nbsp; console and all we need to do now is just tighten&nbsp; down the two screws to hold it in place so with&nbsp;&nbsp; those two screwed in our boot is secured and check&nbsp; this out this looks so good i'm looking around the&nbsp;&nbsp;
[30:32] edge here i don't see any silver from the bracket&nbsp; so we did a perfect job making this fit now let's&nbsp;&nbsp; go get this installed and go for a ride i cannot&nbsp; wait so let's get the center console off to the&nbsp;&nbsp; side here that way I could connect the kill switch&nbsp; and the order of these wires doesn't matter just&nbsp;&nbsp;
[30:47] make sure each one is connected nice and tight&nbsp; so get these pushed completely together and then&nbsp;&nbsp; and now let's get this center console in place&nbsp; and you kind of want to just work it in there&nbsp;&nbsp;
[30:59] until it fits so get the shifter boot over the&nbsp; shifter good then we can install the back part&nbsp;&nbsp; of the center console as well and that kind&nbsp; of just fits into place now let's screw on&nbsp;&nbsp; our shift knob all the way and then finally&nbsp; I'm going to tighten that single screw on the&nbsp;&nbsp;
[31:14] side to hold it in i still need to replace&nbsp; the carpets in this car so this one screw&nbsp;&nbsp; will do for now so with everything installed&nbsp; now let's get this car back on the ground so&nbsp;&nbsp; we can go for a test drive so lift the car&nbsp; up and remove each of the jack stands now&nbsp;&nbsp;
[31:28] we can lower the car to the ground remove&nbsp; the wheel chock and let's get her off the ramps holy smokes what a difference a rebuilt&nbsp; shifter makes real quick just so you remember&nbsp;&nbsp;
[31:43] the difference this is before we rebuilt the&nbsp; shifter you can see how loose every gear is&nbsp;&nbsp; the shifter is sloppy and indirect and it's very&nbsp; easy to miss a gear and this right here is after&nbsp;&nbsp; we rebuilt the shifter so that's neutral that's&nbsp; first look at that look at how tight that is look&nbsp;&nbsp;
[32:00] at how crisp these shifts are it feels so good&nbsp; it's direct and it feels absolutely amazing i&nbsp;&nbsp; wish I did this sooner so now let's see the&nbsp; measured difference before and after so this&nbsp;&nbsp;
[32:12] was before with the original worn out shifter&nbsp; and we had 3 in or 8 cm of play and the shifter&nbsp;&nbsp; was very loose and this is the after with our&nbsp; rebuilt shifter we're in fourth gear and if we&nbsp;&nbsp; move this back and forth you can see we have&nbsp; less than an inch or 2 cm of play which is a&nbsp;&nbsp;
[32:28] huge difference and check out this awesome visual&nbsp; comparison in fourth gear i think this speaks for&nbsp;&nbsp; itself so there you go we're one step closer&nbsp; to turbocharging this car now our shifter is&nbsp;&nbsp; good to go that way we don't miss any shifts under&nbsp; boost which could be catastrophic and I hope this&nbsp;&nbsp;
[32:42] video was helpful if it was remember to give it&nbsp; a thumbs up if you're not a subscriber definitely&nbsp;&nbsp; hit that subscribe button to see more of the&nbsp; Project Dell Soul and as always all the tools&nbsp;&nbsp; and products I used in this video are linked&nbsp; down in the description so you can easily find