How to Paint A Room Fast Like A Pro (Tips for Beginners)

[00:00] In this video, I'm going to show you how you can paint your house faster, better, and get those professional results without the thousands of hours of experience that a professional painter has.

[00:13] These are real tips that work, no gimmicks, and it's easier and it makes painting a lot more fun, and you might even like it. So if you like this video and you want to see more like it, or to see the drywall series that I did, check out that playlist to make sure you get your walls prepped and ready,

[00:28] and enjoy. First, we'll look at all of the tools and supplies I'll be using in this video.

[00:42] I'll list them in the video description with a link for each product. I'm using an 18-inch roller rather than a standard 9-inch, and I'll talk more about why later in the video. A 3-8-inch nap roller.

[00:56] I'm using Sherwin Williams Pro Mar 200. It's a mid-grade paint, but if your walls are going from a dark color to a light one, you may want to get a paint with a primer additive, or prime the walls prior to painting them.

[01:09] A good brush is a must. I'm using a 3-inch angled, purty brand brush. Now quality brush makes a huge difference, and if you take care of it, it will last a long time.

[01:23] A small roller for spaces where the large roller won't fit. A paint cup or an empty paint can for cutting in.

[01:36] A sanding block. A round wall sander with fine sandpaper.

[01:53] A duster to clean the walls. And painter's tape. I start by clearing the walls. You'll want at least 4 feet of working space between the wall and any furniture.

[02:08] Remove all nails even if you're going to reuse them. Remove all outlet and switch cover plates.

[02:23] Remove all plastic covers from thermostats and doorbells. It's much easier to remove them than trying to paint around them.

[02:38] Fill any holes you aren't going to reuse with hole filler. Use the handle of your putty knife to make a small dent around the hole and remove the excess filler. The filler I'm using dries in under 30 minutes and doesn't require sanding, but we will

[02:52] be sanding the walls prior to painting. Use a 5-in-1 painter's tool to scrape off any of the larger imperfections you might see, like a paint drip from the previous paint job. Things that won't sand down when we do the light wall sanding prior to painting.

[03:14] Use a drop cloth or contractors paper to cover the area you're painting. Then the wall removes minor imperfections and helps the new paint bond.

[03:28] Round wall sanders are easier to use than the older rectangle wall sanders that like to flip when you're using them, giving you more things you need to fix.

[03:40] Dust the walls. I'm using a swiffer duster, but I prefer using a larger floor duster. The one I use is made by Bona. Load the paint into the brush by tapping it against the bottom of the paint container

[03:52] that you're using. When you use the brush, you want the paint coming from the middle of the brush and not the edges. Wipe the extra paint from all four sides of the outside of the brush. If you've had trouble cutting in in the past, it may be because you aren't loading the

[04:07] brush properly. It's easier to do this with a paint can filled with about an inch of paint compared to the red paint holder that I'm using as well. Let the red container as much easier to hold and has a magnet for the brush, so I'd recommend

[04:21] trying both to see which one you like. They're both under $5 it can be found just about anywhere paint is sold.

[04:39] On the first coat, leave about an eighth of an inch gap. This saves a ton of time cutting in and gives you much better results. When you do the second coat, the paint glides easily across the first coat.

[04:53] You'll definitely notice how much easier it is to get a straight line when you only have the small gap to think about compared to trying to make a perfect line on the first coat and then again on the second. This is one of those things that may not make that much sense when you hear it, but I promise

[05:08] you you'll understand it after you try it. While you're on the ladder cutting in the ceilings, bring any corners you encounter about halfway down. When you're done with the ladder, bring the quarters down to the baseboard and then follow

[05:22] the same path around the room that you did when you were cutting in the ceiling.

[05:39] Get in around outlets, doors and windows as you go. When cutting in along the baseboard, cut with your painting arm closest to the wall so

[05:52] your non-painting arm can support you without being in your way.

[06:13] If you're repainting the trim, bring the paint slightly onto the trim and use your trim paint to cut the straight line. If you aren't painting the trim, leave the same eighth inch gap that we did when we were

[06:50] in.

[07:06] Use painters tape when you have difficult areas like the small gap around the door. Use an old brush or a cheap one to get the paint to the wall. Never use your good brush in areas that won't easily fit.

[07:19] It will ruin it. Remove any fuzz from the roller, but good ones like this are usually ready to go right

[07:49] up.

[08:17] On the first coat, you'll roll about two full roller wits per paint load and approximately three wits per paint load on the second coat. Now if you haven't used an 18 inch roller before, you are in for a treat.

[08:30] While it's twice as big as a standard roller, somehow it paints three times faster. It also eliminates a lot of the problems that I've had with 9 inch rollers. The 18 inch roller allows even pressure on both sides.

[08:43] For the 9 inch roller, allows users to favor one side causing roller marks and highs and lows. The standard 9 inch roller also has a hollow core that can fill with paint, and the method of removing and replacing covers is much more user friendly on the 18 inch roller.

[08:59] All you need to do is paint a ceiling with a 9 inch roller and then again with an 18 inch roller, and you will never look back, the difference is huge.

[09:16] After loading the roller, start the next row a few inches from where you last stopped. Roll back one roller width to fill it in, and then forward two wits. Paint even pressure the entire time.

[09:41] When you notice the paint running out, do not increase the pressure to try to get more paint. Instead add more paint to the roller.

[10:08] Your drop cloth will get paint on it no matter how careful you are.

[10:22] Keep the paint off of the floor by keeping the same side up the entire job.

[10:35] Clean your brush before it fills up to the metal feral and before it begins to dry on the brush. You'll need to do this several times during the job, but it only takes a minute or two and

[10:48] it's much easier to paint with a clean brush. Don't spray water into the brush from the bottom, doing this will damage the bristles. Patiently rinse until the water is clear.

[11:00] Use a wire brush to remove dried paint from the outside bristles.

[11:14] Twist the brush to remove the excess water, then reshape the bristles and store it in the cover it came with.

[11:37] When the paint is completely dry, it's ready for the second coat. For the second coat, repeat the same process as before, only now bring the paint all the way

[11:49] to the edge.

[12:18] Between coats, tightly wrap the wet roller and saran wrap, it can last several days or even

[12:48] a few days.