How To Build A Gaming PC! 🤗

[00:00] How do you build a gaming PC? It's the

[00:02] age-old question and it's one that

[00:04] causes quite a lot of stress. It's a lot

[00:06] of money to spend on different PC

[00:07] components. Even if you go for a more

[00:09] budget friendly system and the last

[00:11] thing you want to do is break something

[00:12] or just find that you put it together

[00:14] and it doesn't work. The good news is

[00:15] though, you've got me. And this is the

[00:17] single video that we've ever done

[00:20] doesn't really make any sense. This is

[00:21] definitely the best video we've ever

[00:23] done to give you the clearest possible

[00:25] guide through all of the ins and the

[00:27] outs, all of the intricacies, all of the

[00:29] tiny little pins. And we're going to

[00:30] show you exactly why everything we have

[00:32] here works together. We'll be talking

[00:34] about compatibility, but we'll be

[00:36] showing you as in clearest detail as

[00:37] possible, how to put everything in all

[00:40] of the relative places, how to do so

[00:41] without damaging anything or making any

[00:43] mistakes, and obviously to helping you

[00:45] get the best possible rig possible.

[00:46] We've actually made a couple of little

[00:48] mistakes in here that would be really

[00:49] easy to make. and we're going to show

[00:51] you exactly what they are and how to

[00:53] prevent them in your build and just get

[00:54] the best possible gaming PC. I'm also

[00:56] going to say as well that whilst we have

[00:57] chosen parts that go really well

[00:59] together as well, we're also going to

[01:00] leave links down in the description

[01:02] below not only to current pricing but

[01:04] also to some like parts from other

[01:06] different price points as well because

[01:07] obviously not everyone wants to spend I

[01:09] think this one was about £1,600 but as

[01:11] you'll see we could do this for as low

[01:12] as like £1,200 1250. If you want to

[01:15] spend more, you want to spend less

[01:16] obviously we've got loads of different

[01:18] recommendations. So, you can find those

[01:19] all listed down below. But actually,

[01:21] speaking of PC parts, this video is

[01:23] proudly sponsored by Overclockers UK in

[01:25] the UK. And essentially, Overclockers

[01:27] are one of the best places to go for PC

[01:29] parts. They have such an enormous list

[01:31] of stock as well. So, you might find

[01:33] that if you go on other sites, they're

[01:35] going to have like some of the maybe

[01:36] like the Ryzen CPUs or like some of the

[01:38] cases, but if you really want the best

[01:40] possible selection, you need to go to a

[01:41] PC retailer and Overclockers UK. We've

[01:43] been working with them for years.

[01:44] They're fantastic. They also offer next

[01:46] day delivery as well. even if you order

[01:48] relatively uh late into the day or

[01:50] afternoon, which is really useful if

[01:51] you're putting something together and

[01:52] you realize you're missing like a couple

[01:54] of fans or uh you've just made a mistake

[01:56] on your order. Really, really useful.

[01:58] And you often get some Haribo as well in

[01:59] the box, which is a nice little bonus.

[02:01] Massive thank you to Overclockers UK for

[02:02] sponsoring this video. Everything that

[02:04] you find here is listed down below with

[02:06] Overclockers UK links, as well as other

[02:08] global stores as well. We're aware not

[02:10] everyone lives in the UK, but let's now

[02:13] enter the realm of PC gaming and get

[02:14] this thing started. is incredibly

[02:16] exciting and I really hope that you can

[02:18] follow along at home. Now, the first

[02:19] thing that you're going to need to do is

[02:21] just make sure obviously you grab

[02:22] everything that you need, including all

[02:23] of the parts, but then also your tools.

[02:25] And the good news is is very

[02:26] straightforward. Most builds you

[02:27] probably need two screwdrivers. Both are

[02:29] Phillips cross heads. One is slightly

[02:31] smaller than the other. This is going to

[02:32] be used for things like plugging and

[02:33] screwing your motherboard in, like

[02:35] installing fans, whilst this one is just

[02:36] going to be used for putting your

[02:38] storage in your tiny little SSD. Now,

[02:40] some rigs, most of them not, but some

[02:42] rigs sometimes you need some pliers if

[02:44] you've got a screw that needs kind of

[02:46] like we say screw, it's a standoff, but

[02:48] we'll walk you through what a standoff

[02:49] is a little bit later. Sometimes they

[02:51] need a little bit of a tighten or

[02:52] sometimes you need to move them around.

[02:53] Pliers are quite useful. As I say, most

[02:55] of the time you won't need these, but

[02:56] these are pretty much the only three

[02:57] tools you need. A lot of people are also

[02:59] worried about static and obviously it's

[03:01] a fantastic idea if you want to have

[03:03] like an anti-static wristband that's

[03:05] kind of attached to the chassis cuz it

[03:07] can ground you. I'm not specifically

[03:08] going to recommend for or against that.

[03:10] All I'm going to do is say that I've

[03:12] built probably like 100 PCs in this very

[03:14] room and I've never done it. And as far

[03:16] as I know, I've never had an issue. That

[03:18] doesn't mean you won't. If you want to

[03:20] feel more comfortable you by using some

[03:21] anti-atic protection, that's fantastic.

[03:24] But all I'm saying is I haven't. I don't

[03:27] and I haven't had an issue. But as I

[03:28] say, it's a lot of expensive gear. So I

[03:30] understand if you want to. My first rig

[03:32] I did. Choosing parts. I've done a full

[03:34] video on this that goes through

[03:36] everything in much greater detail. And

[03:37] if you haven't watched that, I highly

[03:39] recommend that you do because choosing

[03:40] your PC parts is incredibly important

[03:42] because it means you're getting great

[03:43] value for money and that everything will

[03:45] be properly compatible. You can find

[03:46] that video in the top right corner of

[03:47] your screen. Honestly, really, really

[03:49] good. Hopefully, by the end of it,

[03:50] you'll be an expert on everything PC

[03:52] parts. But a quick recap if you haven't

[03:54] or you need a recap. Essentially, it's

[03:56] kind of eight different PC parts that

[03:58] you need for a full completed rig. You

[04:00] can obviously go for more than this and

[04:01] we are doing it here today, but

[04:03] typically you need eight things to make

[04:04] sure that your gaming PC works. The

[04:06] first one is a case. Obviously, this is

[04:09] got everything and it's going going to

[04:10] go inside it. The key thing really you

[04:12] need to worry about here or think about

[04:14] I suppose is air flow. If you have a

[04:16] really closed off case, then you might

[04:18] find that it's a lot harder to get your

[04:20] temperatures nice and low because it's

[04:21] harder for air to enter or exit the

[04:23] case. But then the other thing really is

[04:24] just the size. if you want to have it on

[04:26] your desk. Obviously, be aware that

[04:27] large dual chamber cases take up a lot

[04:29] of space. But then also size for the

[04:31] motherboard. You can't go for a tiny

[04:33] little case and then put a fulls size

[04:34] motherboard in it. But likewise, you

[04:36] can't well you can, but it would look a

[04:37] little bit silly if you want for a

[04:38] massive case and put a small motherboard

[04:40] inside it. Now, we have different sizes

[04:43] and these will be listed for your case.

[04:45] And the different sizes are ATX,

[04:47] microATX, or miniITX. This is a full

[04:50] size ATX motherboard. that's going to be

[04:52] the best bet for most people because

[04:54] it's got loads of sockets on it, loads

[04:56] of ports, and most cases are ATX these

[04:59] days. But typically, if you want to step

[05:00] down and go for something smaller, most

[05:02] people probably go for ITX and build

[05:04] like a really small rig, but especially

[05:05] if you're building a budget friendly

[05:06] system, you can get MATX, MicroATX, get

[05:09] a slightly smaller case, and then you

[05:11] can save a bit of money here as well.

[05:12] The downside though is that you don't

[05:14] always get the full four RAM slots,

[05:16] which is useful for upgrading. But then

[05:17] just because it's a smaller motherboard,

[05:19] there's usually less on it, which

[05:20] doesn't necessarily matter to most

[05:22] people. But if you want to put loads of

[05:24] different PCIe devices and just have the

[05:26] flexibility of maybe like loads of SSDs

[05:28] and things, you are limited a bit more

[05:30] by physical space. I will add, by the

[05:32] way, that obviously we are going to

[05:33] spend the next few minutes going through

[05:34] all of the parts. If you think you

[05:35] already know this and just want to skip

[05:36] ahead to the process, use the timestamps

[05:39] on the video that can take you to the

[05:40] exact bit that you need or just skip

[05:42] ahead to the bit where we actually build

[05:43] it. But what I was going to say is that

[05:45] this motherboard is an AMD motherboard.

[05:48] You get AMD and Intel. And the best way

[05:50] of knowing compatibility really is to

[05:52] have a look at the socket. So this is an

[05:54] AM5 compatible motherboard, which means

[05:56] the processors that's going to go inside

[05:58] this are AM5. Now, to doubly check that

[06:01] your processor is compatible, I'd always

[06:03] choose the processor first, then look at

[06:05] the motherboards and just go on the

[06:07] manufacturer's website and it will say

[06:09] supported CPUs, and then assuming you've

[06:11] got the latest BIOS update, this CPU

[06:13] will be compatible with the motherboard.

[06:15] The reason I add that last bit is

[06:16] because here we're using a B650e

[06:19] motherboard because this is around about

[06:20] £100 cheaper than the newer B850

[06:23] equivalent. But the only downside

[06:25] really, other than losing USB 4 and

[06:27] having slightly slower Wi-Fi really on

[06:29] this particular board, is that you will

[06:30] need to do a BIOS flash, a BIOS update

[06:33] in order to actually get this to work. I

[06:34] know this is starting to sound a little

[06:35] bit complicated, but genuinely, I think

[06:37] that's probably the most complicated

[06:38] thing about the whole build. So, you can

[06:40] relax. Everything else is much simpler.

[06:42] Obviously, to pair with this, you are

[06:44] going to need a CPU. And as I say, I

[06:46] would pick this first. The one we're

[06:47] using here is pretty much in a good way

[06:49] the most middle- of the road high-end

[06:51] gaming CPU you can get. It's really easy

[06:53] to recommend for basically any system.

[06:54] This is a Ryzen 7 9700X. Obviously, this

[06:57] is from AMD. Most builds at the time of

[07:00] filming that I do are AMD just because

[07:03] the Ryzen CPUs at the moment are kind of

[07:04] just geared towards gaming and give you

[07:06] better value. But having said that,

[07:07] there certainly are reasons to go for

[07:09] Intel, especially if you go for like a

[07:11] 14th gen chip or if you're watching this

[07:13] in the future, maybe Intel Core Ultra 2

[07:15] has got like amazing gaming performance

[07:17] and great value as well. But it doesn't

[07:19] matter too much which way you go as long

[07:21] as you know what you're buying into. I'd

[07:23] always recommend having a look at the

[07:24] benchmarks and things of different video

[07:26] games to ensure that you're getting the

[07:28] right chip for you. But obviously the

[07:29] core count of the CPU is going to be

[07:31] different depending on the one that you

[07:32] go for. So the more money you spend

[07:34] quite often the more cores you get. But

[07:35] then you can buy like gaming CPUs like

[07:38] the 7900 or 7800 I should say and the

[07:41] 9800 X3D. These are the best for gaming

[07:44] as long as your graphics card is really

[07:46] good as well. Again, there's no point

[07:48] spending like £500 on a CPU and then

[07:51] £300 on a graphics card. You be much

[07:53] better off doing it the other way round,

[07:55] but typically you need about eight

[07:56] cores. You could get away with six for

[07:58] gaming, especially on a budget friendly

[07:59] system. And at the time of filming, any

[08:01] more than that doesn't make masses of

[08:02] difference, but if you're watching this

[08:03] in 3 years time, it might be a different

[08:05] story. You probably noticed that the box

[08:06] for the CPU though is very, very small.

[08:08] There's no cooler inside this particular

[08:10] one. Budget friendly chips usually come

[08:12] with something very small that you can

[08:14] use. It's called a stock cooler. It's

[08:15] fine for like getting you by, but if you

[08:18] want something that's much quieter and

[08:19] unlocks the full performance of a lot of

[08:21] the chips, you need something third

[08:22] party. Now, this is very overkill.

[08:25] Remember when I said I was going to make

[08:26] some mistakes, if you like throughout

[08:28] this video potentially, it's to go for

[08:29] something like this. This is a massive

[08:31] 360 liquid cooler. It's going to look

[08:34] awesome. It's going to fill up our case.

[08:36] It's going to give you great thermal

[08:37] performance and low noise for your CPU.

[08:39] But if you're trying to save as much

[08:40] money as possible and really kind of

[08:42] like pump up the FPS, then instead of

[08:44] going for a liquid cooler, I'd usually

[08:46] recommend that most people go for, he

[08:49] says, trying not to drop stuff, one of

[08:50] these. This is Arctic Freezer 36 ARGB.

[08:53] It's my personal favorite cooler cuz in

[08:56] terms of value for money, this is often

[08:57] around about like 30 35 or dollars, even

[09:00] with the ones with the RGB. And it's

[09:03] actually suitable for most gaming CPUs.

[09:05] It's going to be nice and quiet, going

[09:07] to run relatively cool as well, and it's

[09:09] going to all you need. So, ask yourself,

[09:11] does it really make sense to be spending

[09:12] like a extra $100 or $100 plus on

[09:16] something like this when that could go

[09:18] towards a better graphics card, and I'll

[09:19] get a more noticeable improvement in

[09:21] games. There's not necessarily a right

[09:23] or wrong answer, but I'd probably say

[09:24] most people would be better off with

[09:25] this. But, we're going to install both

[09:27] throughout this video, again, just to

[09:28] show you the differences and well, how

[09:30] to install both. Obviously, you're also

[09:32] going to need to grab yourself some

[09:33] storage or an SSD. Now, if you already

[09:35] have like existing drives, so maybe like

[09:37] an old school SATA SSD or like a hard

[09:39] drive from yesterday year, then

[09:41] obviously you can bring that across if

[09:42] you want. But the benefits with this is

[09:43] it's so much faster. In fact, a lot of

[09:46] games these days won't actually work on

[09:47] a hard drive at all cuz you need a

[09:49] decent readr speed just to have all the

[09:51] assets and things load in properly. But

[09:53] then because there's no moving parts,

[09:55] you won't have any like horrible

[09:56] vibrations or anything in your system.

[09:58] The downside is obviously they're a fair

[09:59] bit more expensive, but in this day and

[10:01] age, no one really installs Windows on a

[10:04] hard drive. I mean, you might have done

[10:05] like 10 years or so ago. Just grab

[10:07] yourself an SSD. They're much cheaper

[10:08] these days as well. This is a relatively

[10:10] speaking quite a high-end one. This is a

[10:12] Samsung 990 Pro, but typically you can

[10:14] get something decent for around about

[10:15] £60 or dollars or so. So, that can save

[10:17] you about £30, but these are often on

[10:19] sale and are pretty easily to recommend

[10:22] to be honest. Other thing to note as

[10:23] well is obviously the capacity of the

[10:24] drive. It's very easy to add more at a

[10:26] later date. So, I would always kind of

[10:28] go for a lower capacity drive and spend

[10:30] money on like other bits of your PC to

[10:32] again just get you the best possible

[10:33] performance. But particularly if you

[10:35] have like really slow internet, that's

[10:36] when having like a two or 4 TB SSD might

[10:39] come in handy so you don't need to keep

[10:40] like deleting games and reinstalling

[10:42] them. But a terabyte or two is going to

[10:44] be the best bet for most people. Then we

[10:46] also need our RAM. Random access memory

[10:48] is very easy for gaming PCs these days.

[10:51] Typically, everyone wants to go for 32

[10:53] GB. You want to get a speed of 6,000 MHz

[10:56] and you want to find one that says CL30

[10:58] on it. Now, that is the latency and

[11:00] obviously that is the speed. The faster

[11:02] the memory in theory, the better the CPU

[11:04] performance can be, but there's a sweet

[11:06] spot really where you start to spend

[11:07] more money and you don't really gain any

[11:10] extra performance. That's kind of over

[11:12] 6,000 MHz. And because most people are

[11:14] buying 6,000 MHz memory, the pricing on

[11:16] this is usually pretty good. I think at

[11:17] the time of filming this one was £110.

[11:20] You can get away with 16 gig, but it

[11:22] should be advised that pretty much all

[11:23] PCs these days are DDR5. So, if you have

[11:26] older memory that says DDR4 on it, you

[11:29] can't carry this across. You can't put

[11:31] it in this system and upgrade it. Sadly,

[11:33] it's not going to work. So, you will

[11:34] have to buy some new DDR5 RAM. Oh, and

[11:37] then I can't believe we left this this

[11:38] long. The graphics card. Obviously, the

[11:40] most exciting bit of any gaming PC and

[11:43] always the thing that you should pump as

[11:44] much money in to as possible. I mean,

[11:46] the best way for choosing PC parts is to

[11:48] pick a graphics card first, then find a

[11:50] CPU that will kind of pair with it. You

[11:52] want to make sure that the frame rates

[11:53] of the two kind of line up really, so

[11:55] again, you're not spending far too much

[11:56] money on one and then not enough on the

[11:58] other. But with the graphics card, you

[11:59] do also need to be aware that obviously

[12:01] you can buy an AMD or an Nvidia GPU.

[12:03] They typically vary in the sense that

[12:05] Nvidia has better software, but they

[12:07] often charge a price premium. And in the

[12:08] case of the RTX 5070, you don't actually

[12:11] get as much VRAM on that. you get a 12

[12:13] GB VRAM buffer, which again probably

[12:16] sounds a little bit confusing. The cheat

[12:17] sheet way of knowing is that an 8 GB

[12:20] card should be okay for 1080p. 12 gig

[12:22] should be fine for 1440 or quad HD

[12:24] gaming and then 16 gig for 4K. However,

[12:27] that's not like an absolute. And the

[12:29] problem is that a lot of graphics cards

[12:30] these days are coming with 8 GB of VRAM,

[12:33] so things like the 50/50 or the 5060 for

[12:36] instance. But then that already means

[12:37] you're having to turn down settings

[12:39] today when you bought the graphics card

[12:41] because you've got enough power to run

[12:43] the games, let's say, at the frame rate

[12:45] and the settings that you want, but you

[12:46] don't have enough memory or VRAM on the

[12:48] card itself. And obviously, this is only

[12:50] going to get worse over time. So, we

[12:52] don't actually recommend most people go

[12:53] for an 8 GB card unless you really are

[12:55] on a budget or maybe you're getting

[12:56] something used, for instance. That's not

[12:58] to say you absolutely categorically

[13:00] should not do it, but it's definitely

[13:02] worth spending a little bit more to buy

[13:03] like a 16 GB graphics card. So, this one

[13:05] is a 5060 Ti. It comes in eight and 16.

[13:08] We would always recommend people get the

[13:10] 16 cuz ultimately this is a card that's

[13:12] going to last a lot longer. Remember

[13:13] what I said I was going to give you a

[13:14] quick overview of all these components.

[13:16] Well, I've been a lot more thorough than

[13:18] I thought I was going to be. Hopefully,

[13:19] it's useful. But definitely with the

[13:20] GPU, if you don't watch anything else,

[13:22] watch this video up here that explains

[13:24] how to buy a graphics card because

[13:25] there's so much more to think about and

[13:27] it's the most important thing in your

[13:28] gaming PC. But last, but certainly not

[13:31] least, we have this, the power supply.

[13:33] And I'll be honest, it's pretty boring,

[13:35] but it is really important. This

[13:36] essentially gets your mains electricity

[13:38] and then converts it to the voltages

[13:39] that all of the different components

[13:41] needs. Now, the easiest way to buy this

[13:43] is actually just to go on your graphics

[13:45] card specification sheet online, and

[13:47] this will give you a minimum PSU

[13:48] requirement. And this will tell you what

[13:50] nine out of 10, probably more, uh,

[13:53] people should be buying essentially. So,

[13:54] if this says you need a 650 W power

[13:56] supply, you can get a 650 and everything

[13:59] should work because this is like going

[14:01] to assume that you've got like a really

[14:02] powerful CPU. So, it's giving you a

[14:03] little bit headroom. So, you can get

[14:05] away with something smaller. But

[14:06] actually, for most people, I recommend

[14:07] doing the opposite and to go for

[14:09] something a little bit oversp spec. So,

[14:11] if it says 650, maybe get a 750. If it

[14:13] says 750, get an 850. And the reason for

[14:15] this is just because chances are you're

[14:18] probably going to upgrade your system at

[14:19] a later date to a new graphics card. And

[14:21] usually you end up spending a little bit

[14:23] more on that component. And if you have

[14:24] to buy a new power supply again just to

[14:26] accommodate it is pretty frustrating and

[14:28] there's not often that much difference

[14:30] maybe like 30 $40 uh between a 750 and

[14:33] an 850 for example. But it is a genuine

[14:35] mistake that a lot of people make is

[14:37] that they go out and buy like a really

[14:38] high-end power supply that they don't

[14:40] need and again then they have to maybe

[14:41] step down to a cheaper CPU or a cheaper

[14:44] GPU to compensate. So buy the right

[14:46] power supply but if you've got a little

[14:48] bit extra budget then yes step it up by

[14:50] 100 W would be my advice. Oh, and then

[14:52] ladies and gentlemen, I think we are now

[14:55] ready to actually get started. You

[14:56] probably noticed though how I haven't

[14:58] mentioned these, which are some extra

[15:00] fans because these obviously are not

[15:01] vital to your gaming PC. Most cases will

[15:04] actually come with some as standard.

[15:05] This is actually my favorite case. This

[15:07] is the NV5 V2. And as you can see, it

[15:09] doesn't come with any. So, we are going

[15:11] to add some. But the biggest mistake

[15:13] that a lot of people make with a gaming

[15:14] PC is to be honest, it's buying things

[15:16] like this. Now, to be clear, this is a

[15:18] good product. I like these. They're very

[15:20] good fans. But these fans cost more than

[15:22] the case for a pack of three fans. I

[15:24] know they're going to look great. I know

[15:26] they're easily controllable and we'll be

[15:27] using them today. But if you're on a

[15:30] budget or you're really just trying to

[15:31] maximize FPS, I would advise going for

[15:33] some cheaper fans and just turning them

[15:35] down. It might not look quite so pretty.

[15:37] But again, you're going to be looking at

[15:38] your monitor anyway and getting a higher

[15:40] frame rate. So, the two packs of fans

[15:42] that we have here today cost around

[15:43] about £220. So, it's very easy to take a

[15:46] lot of money off this rig uh just by

[15:47] going for cheaper fans or not even

[15:49] necessarily populating all of them. I

[15:51] mean, you could see what thermals you're

[15:52] going to get. I probably wouldn't

[15:53] recommend it, but obviously you will

[15:55] have a CPU cooler in here that will be

[15:56] moving air around. So, you might find

[15:58] that you don't actually need anything,

[16:00] but you can get fans quite cheap for

[16:01] like $10 $15 each and just get a couple

[16:04] and you know, you'd be fine. Other

[16:05] reason as well that I wanted to use

[16:06] these is just to show you that they come

[16:08] in different flavors. So, these are

[16:09] LX120s RGB and then this one, you notice

[16:12] has that R in the name. Now, that stands

[16:14] for reverse blade. If you're going for

[16:15] high-end fans that have got like a

[16:17] pretty side and an ugly side, then

[16:19] because obviously it's only going to be

[16:20] on one side of the fan, uh sometimes you

[16:22] need to buy R or reverse blade just so

[16:25] they look right in your rig. So, for

[16:27] example, here we're going to use this

[16:29] bit, this side as an intake. And for

[16:32] most fans, that would mean you'd see the

[16:33] back of the fan. So, that's why you want

[16:35] the reverse blades. So, the reverse side

[16:37] is the pretty bit. Got that? I mean, if

[16:40] you're not building a gaming PC without

[16:41] reverse blade fans. Oh, are you even a

[16:44] real gamer? That's a trick question. The

[16:45] answer is yes. Oh, but now, ladies and

[16:48] gentlemen, comes the bit where the party

[16:49] really gets started. The time to build

[16:51] has begun. And there's not necessarily a

[16:53] right or wrong order or way to actually

[16:56] put everything together, but there's

[16:57] definitely quite a few things you can do

[16:58] just to make your life easier to speed

[17:00] it up and just to save you a mess and a

[17:02] headache. The first one really is to

[17:03] make sure you're building in an area

[17:04] with lots of light. There's some tiny

[17:06] little labels you're going to have to

[17:07] look at throughout this. And if it's

[17:09] especially if it's inside the black

[17:11] case, if you've in a dark gingy space,

[17:13] it's going to make it a lot more

[17:14] difficult. You'd be like flying around

[17:15] with a torch. Not ideal. The other thing

[17:17] is just to make sure the space that

[17:18] you're building on is large. We're going

[17:20] to be opening quite a lot of boxes, some

[17:22] of them all at the same time. So, you

[17:24] don't want to kind of end up with like

[17:25] some cables in the wrong box or screws

[17:27] going back to the wrong place. It can

[17:28] get confusing. It's a nice big area. And

[17:30] as you open a box, once you're done with

[17:32] it, do put it away neatly. I know I'm a

[17:34] bit guilty of not always doing that, but

[17:36] practice what I preach, not necessarily

[17:38] what I do, but I'm going to be on best

[17:40] behavior in this video, so don't worry

[17:41] about it. The other thing, and I think a

[17:43] lot of people would be kind of making a

[17:45] beline towards their case, and this

[17:46] would be the first thing that they would

[17:48] be getting ready, but we don't actually

[17:49] need to touch this at all until we've

[17:51] got our motherboard ready because it's a

[17:52] lot easier to start on top of the box

[17:54] cuz we can access everything. We can see

[17:57] everything. And then the other thing as

[17:59] well is if you can build with someone

[18:01] else there, obviously ideally someone

[18:02] that's done it before, but even two

[18:04] people that haven't done it, it's going

[18:05] to be a lot easier because you're both

[18:07] going to be able to see things that the

[18:08] other person hasn't seen. You can double

[18:10] check the connections and if someone

[18:11] does something wrong, there's obviously

[18:12] a higher chance that someone will notice

[18:13] and go, "Oh, no, no, you've put that in

[18:14] the wrong place." We walk you through

[18:16] some of the easy mistakes, as I say,

[18:18] throughout this video, including the

[18:20] ones that I did for my first ever gaming

[18:21] PC. You'll notice that this is in quite

[18:23] a loud bag. This is an anti-static bag.

[18:26] And again, I've not really had any

[18:28] issues with damaged components. But if

[18:31] you get something out of an anti-static

[18:32] bag and you ever need to put it like

[18:34] back away, put it back in the bag. Don't

[18:36] leave it on the bag cuz that that's not

[18:38] going to do anything. But this is what

[18:39] your motherboard looks like. And again,

[18:41] will come in different sizes. This is

[18:42] the full size ATX. A microATX kind of

[18:45] cuts off here. So it's like 2/3 of a

[18:47] board, whereas ITX would literally just

[18:49] be this here. So again, most people want

[18:51] a fulls size board, full size case.

[18:53] Certainly for your first build, it makes

[18:55] everything a lot easier. But the main

[18:56] areas you do need to be aware of. You

[18:58] can see I'm you are able to handle it.

[19:00] Don't obviously throw it around, but

[19:02] don't be too scared to kind of like pick

[19:03] it up and look at bits and bobs. As long

[19:05] as you don't drop it, you should be

[19:06] fine. This is the really delicate area

[19:08] underneath this cover. This is where

[19:09] your CPU is going to go. It will have

[19:11] some pins. If you touch any of these

[19:13] pins or dare I say accidentally drop

[19:15] something on the pins, there's a high

[19:17] chance your motherboard can break. This

[19:18] is by far the most delicate bit of the

[19:20] whole build. Uh this is where our RAM is

[19:22] going to go. You'll see we have four

[19:23] slots on this, but again, smaller

[19:24] motherboards sometimes have two, which

[19:26] is a bit annoying if you want to upgrade

[19:27] it at a later date. While you're here, I

[19:29] would actually recommend that you open

[19:30] up slots two and four. These are the

[19:33] ones that we're going to use. It would

[19:34] be very tempting to kind of put them

[19:36] directly next to the CPU. You'd actually

[19:38] be getting half the speed if you do

[19:39] that. So, open them up. Now, you want

[19:41] two and four. This is where your

[19:43] graphics card is going to go in this

[19:44] slot here. This is called a PCIe slot.

[19:46] They have different speeds. Currently,

[19:48] we're on PCI generation 5. Now, you'll

[19:50] probably not notice this, but this is

[19:52] actually a heat sink for the SSD. This

[19:55] is where our drive is going to sit.

[19:56] We're going to open this up and it can

[19:58] go under there. But then we also have a

[20:00] few other bays here as well for extra

[20:01] drives if we want to upgrade it in the

[20:04] future. But generally speaking, you

[20:05] always want to use this top slot as it

[20:07] should be the fastest speed available.

[20:09] Editor Cole should now cut to the lovely

[20:10] B-roll that we took earlier of the IO or

[20:12] the input output. And this shows all of

[20:14] the ports that we have on this

[20:16] particular motherboard. And you may

[20:18] notice as well that we have Wi-Fi.

[20:20] Remember I said earlier, newer

[20:21] motherboards with more bandwidth

[20:23] typically have a better Wi-Fi standard.

[20:25] But this only really matters if you've

[20:26] got a router that's the same standard or

[20:28] it's not going to necessarily be any

[20:30] faster. But a lot of cheaper

[20:31] motherboards don't have Wi-Fi at all. So

[20:33] I would highly recommend that if you are

[20:35] going to use Wi-Fi that you get a

[20:37] motherboard that's a little bit more

[20:38] expensive that has it from the off

[20:39] because otherwise you have to buy an

[20:40] add-in card and by the time you've done

[20:42] that it might even end up more expensive

[20:44] than just buying a decent motherboard in

[20:46] the first place. Depending on what and

[20:47] how you're going to use your

[20:48] motherboards, you might also need some

[20:50] of the other bits inside the box. This

[20:51] is the Wi-Fi antenna. This is going to

[20:53] connect to these little gold connections

[20:55] here. But underneath this, you'll

[20:57] probably find that you're going to have

[20:58] a manual. And if you've ever read a

[21:00] manual in your life, I mean, we're only

[21:02] talking like five, six pages. It's

[21:03] probably this because this is going to

[21:05] walk you through where to plug

[21:06] everything in. Uh the dos and the

[21:08] don'ts. And if you do ever have a

[21:09] problem, if you have like a error, maybe

[21:11] it's a LED, maybe it's like a number on

[21:13] the motherboard depending on what you

[21:14] buy. This should tell you how to fix the

[21:17] problem. So, I don't often need a look

[21:19] at this, but even these days, sometimes

[21:20] if I get a weird bug or error, it's

[21:22] always worth checking in your

[21:23] motherboard. Again, everything's very

[21:25] small as well. All the text is small on

[21:26] the motherboard. It should be easier to

[21:28] read on this. That aside, though, you

[21:30] also find you get some like welcome

[21:31] stuff that obviously you really don't

[21:32] need. Uh, these are SATA cables. These

[21:34] are going to be used if you have like an

[21:36] older SSD or like a hard drive or

[21:38] something. Chances are you probably

[21:39] already got these though if you're

[21:40] moving them from an old rig. But if you

[21:42] buy a hard drive, you will need one of

[21:43] these plugged in for data. We've got

[21:45] some cable ties. Be useful to get

[21:47] everything tidy. Got an SSD screw there.

[21:50] Couple of M.2 pads if you're using like

[21:52] the lower down slots and things. Thermal

[21:55] pad. Most of these things you're not

[21:57] going to need cuz I mean, case in point,

[21:58] I didn't actually know what was in this

[21:59] box. And I've been using this

[22:01] motherboard for about 3 years. But let's

[22:02] close this up, grab our motherboard, and

[22:05] then properly get our party started. And

[22:07] as I say, it's going to be a little bit

[22:09] nerve-wracking, but hopefully you will

[22:11] have fun. And if at any point you get

[22:13] stressed, I've said this a million times

[22:14] and it always sounds like I'm like

[22:16] making some British joke. I'm dead

[22:18] serious. Take a time out. Just go and

[22:20] sit somewhere for like 15 minutes with

[22:21] like a cup of tea or a cup of coffee if

[22:23] you really want to do that, just cuz it

[22:25] should calm you down because it's very

[22:27] stressful. And if something isn't

[22:29] plugging into the bit that you think it

[22:30] is, or maybe like you're getting some

[22:32] weird boot errors or something if your

[22:34] PC is not working, sometimes it's just

[22:36] nice to have a clear head. just take a

[22:37] time out. I promise every single time I

[22:40] get in that situation and I do it, I'm

[22:41] so thankful that I have, but hopefully

[22:44] you shouldn't need to do that because it

[22:45] is actually pretty straightforward. So,

[22:46] the first thing we're going to do is

[22:48] actually install our CPU. So, remember

[22:49] this is our cover. We don't need to take

[22:51] this off. This will automatically remove

[22:53] when we put our chip inside. So, what we

[22:55] can do is grab our Ryzen 7, and then

[22:57] with what I'd describe as a normal

[22:59] amount of force, just gently open this

[23:01] up, leave it to one side for a second,

[23:04] and then we're going to have to lift

[23:06] this little cover or this retention arm

[23:09] like so. And then we're going to

[23:10] actually lift up the flap here. And this

[23:12] is where obviously all of the pins are

[23:14] now exposed. Please don't drop anything

[23:16] in there. Please don't touch it. It

[23:18] would be so incredibly sad cuz you'd be

[23:19] saying bye-bye to your rig. And you do

[23:22] not want to do that. But the good news

[23:23] is this is pretty much the only ultra

[23:25] sensitive bit of the whole process. You

[23:27] can pick up your processor and you can

[23:29] have a look at it. I wouldn't advise

[23:31] touching it any more than you need to,

[23:32] but you see like you can and it's not

[23:34] going to spontaneously combust. But

[23:36] definitely try to be a little bit more

[23:37] careful of the backside of it because

[23:39] you don't want oils and things to go on

[23:40] here. But again, it's not the absolute

[23:42] end of the world if it does. But this is

[23:44] by far the most sensitive bit. Be very

[23:47] careful. But just drop this into place.

[23:49] So you can see here it's almost in, but

[23:51] that's okay. I just gave it a slight

[23:53] nudge and then it will kind of clip

[23:55] itself into position. To get this secure

[23:57] though, obviously we need to push this

[23:59] flap downwards. Kind of catch it a

[24:02] little bit with this lever. And then

[24:04] you'll notice this starts to ping off.

[24:06] That is according to plan. You just part

[24:09] this back. Make sure that this does then

[24:12] remove and make sure that this is

[24:13] properly inside. Carl can show the clip

[24:15] now of the only time I haven't managed

[24:18] to do this properly. You lift up your

[24:19] motherboard and this will happen. True

[24:21] stories. Could have just rushed. True

[24:23] stories. Could have just rushed.

[24:26] How did that happen? Which I'll be

[24:28] honest, wasn't very fun. And it won't be

[24:29] very fun if it's your CPU. So, get it

[24:32] secure. With that complete, then as I

[24:33] say, just tidy as you go. But I'm really

[24:35] pleased to say that the most sensitive

[24:37] bit has been undertaken. So,

[24:38] congratulations. Give yourself a pat on

[24:40] the back. But now we can press on to

[24:41] some easier stuff. So, we're going to

[24:43] move on to the RAM or the random access

[24:45] memory. And you're going to get two

[24:46] different sticks, two different dims.

[24:48] You can use just one, but you'll be

[24:49] getting half the speed. But unless

[24:51] you're buying a really high-end like

[24:52] thread ripper system, if you buy four,

[24:54] it's not going to increase the speed. It

[24:56] will just increase the capacity. Now,

[24:58] remember, as I say, this is DDR5. This

[24:59] is a DDR5 motherboard. Make sure that

[25:01] they match or it's physically not going

[25:03] to fit, and you'll be very sad. But it's

[25:04] very straightforward in these slots that

[25:06] we've already opened up. So, two and

[25:07] four. Just make sure that this lines up

[25:09] with this little notch here. DDR5, it's

[25:12] almost in the middle, which is a bit

[25:13] annoying. So, you might have to give it

[25:14] a little wiggle until you actually get

[25:16] it in place. And then obviously pick up

[25:18] the second stick. This one should be

[25:20] easier because you know which way it

[25:21] actually goes in. It's very satisfying

[25:24] actually plugging in RAM. You get that

[25:25] proper thud. But the important bit is to

[25:27] make sure that these have actually gone

[25:29] back all of the way. Sometimes they'll

[25:30] be on the top and the bottom. This one

[25:32] just has them on the top. So a dead

[25:34] giveaway if it's not inserted properly.

[25:35] It might look something like that. Look,

[25:37] which you might not notice, but you do

[25:39] need to give it a proper push until that

[25:41] clicks in all the way. It's subtle, but

[25:43] if it's not pushed in all the way, then

[25:45] your PC might not boot and you might be

[25:46] really confused. And it's also sometimes

[25:48] confusing because whilst it should say

[25:50] RAM error, sometimes it doesn't actually

[25:52] say RAM error, it might say like CPU or

[25:54] something. You like, why why is my CPU

[25:55] not working?

[25:56] >> But it's actually just the RAM. But that

[25:58] that's rare. As I say, as long as you've

[26:00] plugged everything in properly, you

[26:01] should be fine. Then we can press on to

[26:04] our SSD. And again, this one's quite

[26:05] high-end. You can go for a cheaper one

[26:07] that will give you very similar I was

[26:09] going to say very sim similar

[26:10] performance. I mean, it is similar

[26:11] enough anyway. But in terms of what

[26:13] you're actually going to notice when

[26:14] you're using your PC and loading games,

[26:17] yes, definitely very similar. But we can

[26:19] just open this one up. Look. And you

[26:21] will notice that this thing is

[26:23] absolutely tiny. It always blows my mind

[26:25] actually just how small these are. I

[26:28] mean, it's kind of like the size of your

[26:29] index finger, which is pretty cool. But

[26:31] this is the point where you're going to

[26:32] need to grab that smaller size

[26:33] screwdriver. And we're just going to

[26:35] open this up. Look, just by unscrewing

[26:38] these two screws. This should then

[26:41] remove. And don't look at this, guys.

[26:43] This is the thermal pad. Remember, we

[26:45] had a spare one in the box. This is why

[26:47] because I've used this board like 10,

[26:49] 11, 12 times, and this is getting more

[26:52] and more mangled. But yours will look a

[26:54] lot nicer than this. And we'll have a

[26:55] little peel. You just take this off. And

[26:57] then this thermal pad just helps the

[26:58] heat go from the SSD into the heat sink.

[27:00] And then obviously the fans in your

[27:02] system will then help help to kind of

[27:04] blow that heat away. But make sure you

[27:06] take that peel off just so you're

[27:07] actually getting it to do something.

[27:08] then you can pick up your SSD. Some of

[27:11] them will be double-sided. This is more

[27:12] down to the capacity. This is one

[27:14] terabyte, so it's not. But it's worth

[27:16] noting that if you're having a like

[27:18] really high capacity SSD, may well be

[27:20] worth going for one that actually has a

[27:21] heat sink built into it because then

[27:23] you're covering both sides of the SSD.

[27:25] But some high-end motherboards,

[27:26] especially newer ones, do have

[27:27] double-sided heat sinks these days. But

[27:29] this literally just pushes down. Just

[27:32] need to move this catch. Look. And then

[27:34] move that so that it's secured into

[27:36] position. And then we can pick this up

[27:37] again. And then just gently lay this

[27:39] over those holes and then screw that

[27:41] back into position. And then once you've

[27:44] done that, the good news is that your

[27:45] motherboard is actually pretty much

[27:46] ready to go in your chassis depending on

[27:48] whether you're using an air cooler or

[27:50] using a all-in-one liquid. But before we

[27:53] do that, I think it's going to be a lot

[27:54] more useful to kind of walk you through

[27:56] the motherboard and what you're looking

[27:57] at really and what you're going to need

[27:58] to connect things to so you understand

[28:00] it. And the best way of doing this

[28:01] obviously would be to look in your

[28:02] motherboard manual if there's any name

[28:05] or anything there that you don't kind of

[28:06] know if you need it or what it does. Uh

[28:08] that should tell you. But for a little

[28:10] bit of quick insight essentially, you'll

[28:12] notice obviously there's a lot of stuff

[28:13] here. So we've talked about the CPU

[28:15] socket, the RAM, the M.2, and then these

[28:17] PCIe expansion slots. So this one is

[28:19] where your graphics card is going to go.

[28:21] Uh but if you got like a Wi-Fi card or

[28:23] like a capture card for gaming or

[28:25] something like that, uh then it will

[28:27] connect to one of these ones here.

[28:28] They're different sizes which have

[28:29] different speeds. Uh but there's loads

[28:32] of these tiny little pins dotted

[28:33] throughout that you kind of do need to

[28:35] use. So the most important one, well

[28:38] most important two I'd say are these two

[28:41] up here. These are for your CPU fans. So

[28:43] when you connect your cooler, you're

[28:45] going to connect to these. If

[28:46] something's not connected, your PC uh

[28:48] won't usually boot into Windows. It will

[28:50] give you an error because it doesn't

[28:51] want to cook itself. So this will send

[28:53] power to your fan and then the fan will

[28:56] spin up. And the clever thing about it

[28:57] is is that it can kind of read the CPU

[28:59] temperature and adjust the speed

[29:01] accordingly because you don't want your

[29:02] fans to be running 100% all of the time.

[29:04] Could be really annoying. It's like the

[29:06] compressor in your fridge, right? If

[29:07] your fridge is making that really loud

[29:09] noise all of the time, be pretty

[29:10] annoying, but it only does that every

[29:12] now and then when it needs to. Now, the

[29:14] other thing is down the bottom here.

[29:16] This is where we're going to plug in our

[29:17] power switch to the case. So, this is

[29:20] obviously what makes this button turn

[29:22] your PC on. And if you don't connect

[29:24] this up, the buttons quite literally not

[29:26] going to do anything. All it is is a

[29:27] little gate essentially. So when you

[29:28] press it down, the signal can go from

[29:30] one pin to the other. So if you're ever

[29:32] testing whether the button on your case

[29:34] uh works or not, you can just grab a

[29:35] little screwdriver and then where are

[29:37] they? These these two here. You can just

[29:39] press these together and then in theory

[29:41] your PC should turn on. That's

[29:42] essentially what the button does. But

[29:44] you notice that there's quite a few

[29:45] different things here as well. Typically

[29:47] you won't be using like the right of

[29:49] this. You just use uh these four here on

[29:51] the left. So, you've got your power

[29:52] switch, power LEDs, uh, hard drive LEDs,

[29:55] and then your reset switch. One of the

[29:57] most common things, and the first thing

[29:58] that I did in my first ever gaming PC,

[30:01] don't be ashamed if this happens to you,

[30:03] is that I plugged my power switch into

[30:05] the power LEDs. So, sure enough, when I

[30:07] turned on the PC, nothing happened.

[30:09] That's when I got really upset. That's

[30:11] when I needed to go and take a timeout.

[30:12] I was like, "Oh, why didn't I just buy a

[30:14] Dell or an Alienware?" But, it was

[30:16] actually a very easy thing to remedy.

[30:17] So, yes, don't get your power switch

[30:19] confused with your power LEDs. But all

[30:21] of the text here you see is very small

[30:22] which is why I recommend the motherboard

[30:23] manual. But then most rigs you're also

[30:26] going to be plugging in more fans.

[30:27] They're called chef fan chassis fan. We

[30:29] also have these RGB headers as well. So

[30:32] you've got a four pin which is kind of

[30:33] old school fans or old school callers.

[30:35] But most of them are these three pin

[30:37] addressables. So we've got one here and

[30:39] then two more down the bottom. But this

[30:40] is going to vary depending on the

[30:41] motherboard. So if you buy a lower-end

[30:42] motherboard, it might have less of these

[30:44] or potentially none. It was all down to

[30:46] the board. So obviously check before you

[30:48] buy anything. You also have USB. These

[30:50] are USB 2.0, so they're slow, but fine

[30:53] for most fan controllers or if you're

[30:55] using like a fancy cooler uh and your

[30:57] motherboard can control it, then they're

[30:58] going to plug in down here. We've got

[31:00] much faster USB, and this is usually for

[31:02] the front panel of your chassis. You've

[31:03] got USBC. Annoyingly, this actually

[31:05] isn't a USBC port, which would be

[31:07] better, but that turns into USBC. And

[31:09] then this is the USB 3. So, that blue

[31:11] one on the front of your chassis uh will

[31:13] plug in down here. And then this one

[31:15] here, that's called AAFP. I guess that

[31:18] stands for analog audio front panel, but

[31:20] most motherboards it will say HD audio.

[31:23] Uh, this is if you're going to plug in

[31:24] an old school pair of headphones or an

[31:26] analog headset into your case. Again,

[31:28] this is what sends that sound signal

[31:30] between the case and the board. Uh, you

[31:32] also have some SATA ports. You're

[31:34] getting less and less on new boards as

[31:36] well. So, if you're plugging in a hard

[31:37] drive or again using like an old school

[31:39] SSD, uh, these will plug in down here.

[31:41] But do remember that those need to be

[31:43] powered as well, not just data. You have

[31:45] two cables for those. one for the

[31:47] motherboard and then one to actually

[31:49] power it up. Oh, and speaking of power,

[31:51] last things last. We also have our power

[31:53] connections. This is an ATX. This is

[31:55] very big. You can't miss it. This is

[31:57] going to connect to the power supply.

[31:58] And then your CPU also takes power up

[32:00] here at the top left. Now, for most

[32:03] systems, and emphasis on most, you only

[32:05] need to plug in one eight pin. You'll

[32:08] often find that you have one eight and

[32:10] then one four or eight. Well, then

[32:12] another eight for two. This is usually

[32:14] only for high-end overclocking or like

[32:16] really high-end CPUs like I don't know

[32:18] 14900K or something where it needs more

[32:20] power. I'm not saying here that you

[32:21] should only plug one in, but if you're

[32:23] doing a budget friendly build and your

[32:25] power supply only has one cable that can

[32:27] go to it, don't worry about it. I can't

[32:29] remember the exact figure, so if I can

[32:30] get editor Carl to note it down, but I

[32:32] think you can do like 150 160 watts or

[32:35] something uh through a single 8 pin. And

[32:37] most CPUs are anywhere between 65 and

[32:39] about 120 really, especially for Ryzen

[32:41] CPUs, which is why I say you should be

[32:43] fine with these. Your PC would still

[32:44] boot. It's just potentially you won't be

[32:46] able to overclock it as far, but it's

[32:47] good practice to plug in both. So, that

[32:49] in a nutshell should be everything that

[32:50] you need to know. But now comes the time

[32:52] to actually get our cooling installed.

[32:54] So, I'm going to end up with an

[32:55] all-in-one liquid cooler inside this.

[32:58] But, as I say, most people I think

[32:59] you're going to want to go for one of

[33:00] these, which is an air cooler just to

[33:02] maximize the bang for buck and the

[33:03] amount of FPS you're getting for the

[33:05] money that you'd spend. There's no doubt

[33:07] in my mind if I was building a personal

[33:09] gaming PC like this for me tomorrow. It

[33:11] would be with this cooler, right? I know

[33:13] all-in- ones look better, especially if

[33:15] you're getting like a pre-build or

[33:16] something. I should say as well,

[33:17] actually, if you do want to grab a PC

[33:19] build, then the sponsor of this video,

[33:20] Overclockers UK, have loads of

[33:22] pre-builds. So, if you're watching this

[33:24] and you you think, I just don't want to

[33:25] do it, then have a look at Overclockers

[33:27] UK's pre-builds as well, cuz as I say,

[33:29] you've got loads of options and they

[33:30] send it to you. Some of them, I assume,

[33:32] next day, but depends whether they have

[33:33] to build them. The point I was trying to

[33:34] make is that if you go for a pre-build,

[33:36] then actually allin-one does make more

[33:37] sense because it's less likely to get uh

[33:39] damaged in shipping. But then I would

[33:40] guess that's not really your fault

[33:42] anyway. So it shouldn't make too much uh

[33:44] difference to you. But this is what an

[33:45] air cooler typically looks like. A lot

[33:47] bigger than a stock one. I'll see if I

[33:49] can find one. And I mean, look at that.

[33:50] That is that is tiny. The heat sink on

[33:53] that, the amount of metal that the heat

[33:55] has to absorb into essentially is tiny.

[33:58] And then you've got this really small

[34:00] fan on top. So look, when you do a side

[34:01] by side, there's no competition really,

[34:04] is there? And what this is designed to

[34:06] do is to dissipate heat and mean you can

[34:08] put more power into your CPU and do so

[34:10] while having less noise essentially. So

[34:12] this is not a very good solution, but is

[34:14] free and comes with certain CPUs. This

[34:16] for about £35 actually makes your end

[34:18] user experience, which is just a much

[34:20] quieter, nicer, and better looking PC.

[34:23] So well worth it. But to actually get

[34:25] this cooler installed is worth bearing

[34:26] in mind that every single caller is

[34:28] going to be slightly different. They

[34:30] often use the same mounting mechanism

[34:32] because you've got these four physical

[34:33] screws here. Uh this is actually what we

[34:35] call the default AM5 mount where some

[34:38] callers you will literally hook onto

[34:39] these and then it kind of secures down

[34:41] into place. But most callers don't

[34:43] actually do that which is a little bit

[34:45] weird especially bear in mind a lot of

[34:46] AMD's own like stock callers also don't

[34:49] use this mechanism. So I don't really

[34:50] know why they bother. Uh but you've got

[34:51] these bits of plastic and don't worry

[34:53] this is normal depending on obviously

[34:55] what you're installing. You just want to

[34:57] remove these four screws here like so.

[34:59] And then that should remove. Don't lose

[35:02] these just in case you change your

[35:03] cooler and you might need it

[35:06] essentially. It's just good practice.

[35:07] Just put it in your motherboard box.

[35:08] Just do this with both halves. Then

[35:10] you're going to want to go to your

[35:11] cooler box and pick up the accessories

[35:14] bag that will have a load of screws and

[35:16] some brackets and things and look a

[35:18] little bit like this. Look. But the

[35:19] thing to remember is that typically a

[35:21] third of what's in there is what you

[35:23] need because you have different mounting

[35:24] solutions for different size sockets. So

[35:27] the mounting solution for AMD is

[35:29] different to Intel. And if you buy like

[35:31] a Thread Ripper CPU or you buy like a

[35:33] really high-end X299 CPU from yesterday

[35:35] year that has different physical sizes,

[35:38] which is why you need different physical

[35:39] mounts in order to actually get your

[35:41] cooler to fit. But I think everything

[35:43] here actually I've pre-sorted to just

[35:46] the AMD stuff. So you've got these

[35:48] little brackets here. The best way of

[35:50] working it out if you're unsure is just

[35:51] to kind of line them up as they fit over

[35:53] the holes. You're almost certainly onto

[35:55] a winner look. But once again, whilst

[35:57] this is absolutely going to vary

[35:58] depending on the cooler that you get,

[36:00] with this particular one, we just want

[36:01] to put these little spacers on top and

[36:04] they look different depending on the

[36:06] brands, but most cooling solutions you

[36:08] have to do something similar. Then

[36:09] you'll get some brackets and again

[36:11] varies depending on the brand, but most

[36:14] brands install this way. So, let's get

[36:17] this screwed down with this little nubb

[36:19] in look facing upwards because the

[36:21] cooler is going to then screw into that

[36:23] and then get safe and secure. If you're

[36:24] wondering how tight you should be

[36:26] screwing things like this, by the way,

[36:27] it's going to it sounds obvious, but

[36:29] it's like the right amount of tightness.

[36:30] So, obviously you screw down till you

[36:32] get a bit of resistance. Then you can go

[36:33] slightly more and then you stop. You

[36:35] don't want to be hammering down until

[36:37] there's absolutely nothing more that you

[36:39] can do. It's not necessarily going to

[36:40] break everything, but it would almost

[36:42] certainly break something if you do

[36:43] that. So, if in doubt, keep it. I don't

[36:46] want to say loose, but just don't go ham

[36:48] on it. But let's repeat with the other

[36:49] side. And then comes the really fun bit

[36:51] that a lot of people get a bit nervous

[36:52] about, but you really don't need to be.

[36:54] It's thermal compound. You get two

[36:56] typical uh ways of installing this if

[36:58] you like. So, some coolers, probably

[37:00] like the Corsair one, has it

[37:01] pre-applied. This is easier because you

[37:04] don't need to do anything. You just make

[37:05] sure that you don't kind of accidentally

[37:07] remove it when you're installing it, but

[37:08] you just drop it down into place. It

[37:09] will be on the underside of your cooler

[37:11] and then you can screw it in and then

[37:12] you know you've got the right quantity,

[37:14] the right spread, all of this stuff. But

[37:15] I prefer it like this where they give

[37:16] you a little tube and you have to add

[37:18] this yourself because it just means that

[37:19] you've got multiple installations. So if

[37:21] you ever want to take your cooler off

[37:23] and put a new CPU in, you don't have to

[37:25] buy new thermal compound. But you can

[37:27] see this is the last actually of this

[37:30] stuff that I have in the tube. That's

[37:32] probably the right amount. We say a

[37:33] small P-sized amount, but as long as

[37:35] you've got enough, you'll be fine. like

[37:38] don't go putting like crazy amounts on

[37:40] cuz it's not really going to make any

[37:41] difference. But if you forget the

[37:42] thermal compound, you'd certainly know

[37:44] about it. But we're just going to grab

[37:45] this. Look. And then we're going to

[37:47] gently lay that over those screws. Then

[37:50] we're going to screw to about 25% on one

[37:52] side, 50 on the other. And then kind of

[37:56] just alternate

[37:58] until it is safe and secure. You'll find

[38:01] that there's a fair bit of resistance.

[38:02] This one kind of just stops rather than

[38:04] kind of like letting you do a little bit

[38:06] more at a time. But then you can see we

[38:08] have our heat sink actually attached and

[38:10] then the heat from the CPU obviously

[38:12] will go up into the cooler. But in order

[38:14] for that to actually be expelled

[38:15] somewhere, obviously we need some fans.

[38:18] So these are the ones that you get as

[38:19] standard. Very important. Make sure that

[38:21] they're blowing the right way cuz

[38:22] obviously a fan will go like that. So if

[38:24] you plug it in like this, especially if

[38:27] you got two fans and you have them

[38:28] blowing in towards each other, uh that's

[38:31] not going to be very good for your

[38:33] thermals, is it? So, if you ever have uh

[38:35] significant problems and you can't work

[38:36] out what it is, check the orientation of

[38:39] your fans. But generally speaking, if

[38:40] you can see the label, it means it's

[38:42] blowing away from you. And you want to

[38:43] make sure all of your cables are

[38:45] actually at the bottom so they are nice

[38:46] and neat and out of the way. And on this

[38:49] cooler, it's really easy. So, they

[38:50] literally just push on like that. And

[38:54] then our cooler is installed. All we

[38:55] need to do is find these little cables

[38:58] here. These are our addressable RGB and

[39:01] our fan speed. So, we just need to find

[39:03] our CPU headers that you should be

[39:06] seeing from this lovely B-roll. And then

[39:08] just carefully plugging this in, look to

[39:11] this gray one. On some motherboards, to

[39:13] be fair, the gray is for like an

[39:14] allin-one pump, which is designed to be

[39:16] on all of the time so you know uh that

[39:18] your pump is running at the max speed

[39:20] essentially, but you can customize them

[39:21] in software. But the main thing is that

[39:23] they are actually plugged in. So, that's

[39:24] our fan. And then you can see these are

[39:26] daisy chained as well. So, the two fans

[39:28] are already connected together, but

[39:30] we've got three pins. So you just want

[39:31] to make sure that obviously the single

[39:33] pin is over the single pin. These are

[39:36] annoyingly fiddly. That should just go

[39:38] over like that. And then that would be

[39:40] your CPU cooler installed if you were

[39:42] going for a air cooler. And then this

[39:44] would obviously just drop into the PC

[39:46] and we can resume. But as I say, we're

[39:48] going for allin-one today. So let's get

[39:50] on with that. Which means I have to now

[39:52] take this off. But I can show you a

[39:53] quick trick actually while we're here,

[39:55] which is if you're unsure whether your

[39:56] CPU is making good contact with the

[39:59] cooler, then you can actually install

[40:01] it, take it off, and then have a look at

[40:04] this spread. Because as long as the

[40:06] thermal compound is covering most of the

[40:07] CPU, you know you've installed it

[40:09] properly. If you've got like some really

[40:10] obvious gaps, then it might be you

[40:12] haven't used enough paste or that

[40:14] there's not enough contact essentially

[40:16] between the cooler and the CPU. But it's

[40:18] worth remembering that when you turn it

[40:19] on and you get a bit of heat, this is

[40:20] going to help to just spread it just

[40:22] that little bit more. So, I wouldn't be

[40:23] worried about the fact that you're

[40:25] missing a little bit there, for

[40:26] instance. But in an ideal world, I

[40:27] probably would added a little bit more

[40:29] if I got a bigger tube. So, with that

[40:31] out of the way, we can then press on to

[40:33] our cooler. And it's worth remembering

[40:34] that we're not actually going to install

[40:36] this yet. We want to get our motherboard

[40:37] inside the case, but it's definitely

[40:39] worth grabbing the box now just to check

[40:41] how it mounts because if we need to say

[40:43] put these back on or if they were off

[40:46] and you needed to take them off and put

[40:47] some third party mount again, it's a lot

[40:49] easier to do this whilst the motherboard

[40:51] is here and we can clearly see and

[40:52] access everything before we put it in

[40:54] our case. But having said that, if you

[40:56] forget, it's not the end of the world.

[40:57] But this one is actually pretty easy to

[41:00] set up if I can remember correctly

[41:02] because a lot of modern ones you'll find

[41:03] that the fans are pre-installed to the

[41:05] radiator. And the mounting on this as

[41:07] well, it just screws directly into the

[41:09] socket. Remembered now, which is uh very

[41:11] very neat. But a lot of them you will

[41:12] have to like put some third party plate

[41:14] or something on the motherboard like we

[41:15] did with the air cooler. But I realize

[41:17] you're probably brand new to PC gaming.

[41:18] So, if you're wondering essentially what

[41:20] this is, how it works, it's a similar

[41:22] principle to a normal like air CPU

[41:24] cooler whereby the heat goes into the

[41:26] little pump unit that we have here, but

[41:29] there's actually a plate inside here and

[41:30] the water will run through it and then

[41:32] go through these tubes and then will be

[41:34] dumped in this radiator which obviously

[41:36] has a very large surface area and then

[41:38] the fans will blow through this and then

[41:40] it will go out or depending on your

[41:41] orientation into your chassis and then

[41:43] that process will then cool the water

[41:45] that will then go back down the tubes

[41:47] and then obviously it will repeat the

[41:48] process. These are great for a number of

[41:49] reasons. Firstly, I think most people

[41:51] agree they look better. You've not got

[41:52] like a huge mass or something on top of

[41:54] your CPU. It's also better for

[41:56] transportation as we've said, but also

[41:58] if you're going for like a really

[41:59] high-end system where you've got like a

[42:01] really big beefy graphics card, you got

[42:02] to remember if you're using an air

[42:04] cooler, quite often the graphics card

[42:05] will spit hot air directly out into uh

[42:08] the line of your air cooler, which then

[42:10] means that it's harder to actually get

[42:12] that to run cooly. So, it either run

[42:14] faster or potentially you might find

[42:16] that it actually can't keep up with all

[42:18] of this hot air and then your CPU clock

[42:20] speeds will be reduced because it's just

[42:22] getting too warm. Whereas, if you go for

[42:23] an all-in-one, you can just move that

[42:25] heat from here to either the top of the

[42:27] chassis or like the side or the front

[42:29] depending on the case that you're going

[42:30] for, which can be more optimal and just

[42:32] give you better temperatures throughout.

[42:33] As I say, it's very expensive and for

[42:36] most systems, I think an air cooler will

[42:37] be absolutely fine. But when you start

[42:39] talking, you know, like 5070 Ti, uh,

[42:42] 5080, 5090, that sort of stuff, yes,

[42:44] this really does start to kind of make a

[42:46] lot more sense. But, as I say, this one

[42:47] is incredibly easy to install. You just

[42:49] have these two little AMD brackets.

[42:51] Look, so you find your pump unit. Just

[42:53] slide these on top till they meet. And

[42:56] then you've got these four screw holes.

[42:57] Look, that will line up with those on

[42:59] the board, and we'll just go straight

[43:01] in. Happy days. No third party mount

[43:03] required. So, the good news with that

[43:05] then is that we can just gently part

[43:06] that to one side for a second. And now

[43:08] we're ready to put this inside our case.

[43:10] Very exciting stuff. And we haven't

[43:12] talked about the case really at all

[43:14] other than the size and form factor. But

[43:16] this is my favorite case on the market.

[43:17] As I say, this is the Fantex NV5 V2. And

[43:20] the reason I really like this one is cuz

[43:22] it's very well priced. It's roughly £100

[43:24] depending on when and where you're

[43:26] buying it from. Comes in a few different

[43:28] colors and it's just very well made. So

[43:30] by that it's kind of like thickness of

[43:32] the metals and the glass and obviously

[43:34] the fact that it's just really nicely

[43:36] designed inside. So, uh, you will have

[43:38] to add some fans. That's the main

[43:39] downside with this. As I say, you can

[43:41] absolutely do it on the cheap. You can

[43:42] buy some like ID cooling fans or

[43:44] something, uh, dot them throughout. As

[43:46] long as they're turned down, you'll be

[43:47] absolutely fine. But, it's just really

[43:48] easy to build inside this. And you've

[43:50] got this cool little RGB strip down the

[43:52] bottom here as well. It It just looks

[43:53] neat. My personal rig, you can find this

[43:55] in the top right corner of your screen,

[43:57] is in this, but white. I love that

[43:59] build. I'm still using it today. It's

[44:00] amazing. But what you will need to do is

[44:03] take these side panels off. So, both the

[44:05] front and the back. So, you can access

[44:08] everything. And this is the point where

[44:10] you might start to think, "Oh, maybe

[44:12] I've uh gone a little bit too far. What

[44:14] have I got myself in for?" But I promise

[44:17] it is actually very straightforward.

[44:18] These cables, all they're going to do is

[44:20] connect to the motherboard essentially,

[44:21] just so that the case can talk to it.

[44:23] It's really, really, really

[44:24] straightforward. So, we've got a few

[44:25] different cables, and I'll film some

[44:27] B-roll for this, so it should be nice

[44:28] and clear for you. We've got our USBs.

[44:30] So, we've got a USB 3. This says USB 3.1

[44:33] on it. We have a USB 3, which is that

[44:36] blue one. We have our HD audio here. So,

[44:38] remember on this motherboard, it's going

[44:39] to AAFP, analog audio, front panel.

[44:42] We've also got our power switch. And

[44:44] actually, on most cases, this will

[44:45] probably say front panel. Uh, this

[44:47] combines like the power switch, the

[44:48] reset button, and any of those LEDs all

[44:51] in one container. Some cases there still

[44:53] be those tiny little individual ones

[44:55] that are really annoying, but actually a

[44:56] lot of decent cases these days will come

[44:58] as a single block. And then this just

[45:00] plugs in down the bottom as discussed

[45:01] earlier. And then, is there anything

[45:03] else here? Yes, depending on the case

[45:04] you have, you might have one of these

[45:06] which is a SATA power connection. So,

[45:08] this is for all of the RGB on this

[45:10] computer to work essentially because

[45:12] it's going to take a decent amount of

[45:13] power. But you might also have some USB

[45:15] 2s. Uh USB 2 is what the cooler is going

[45:18] to use and this will connect down the

[45:19] bottom. But again, if you've got like a

[45:21] smart case that has a hub on it,

[45:22] something like that, you might find that

[45:24] needs to connect. And then somewhere on

[45:26] this, you should Yeah. also have one of

[45:28] these, which is an RGB connection. So,

[45:30] this is a three pin. So, this can daisy

[45:32] chain off of some other RGB fans or RGB

[45:35] strips or something that you put in your

[45:36] case. But because this is Fantex, it

[45:38] also has a Fantex connection as well,

[45:40] which uses digital RGB. They're

[45:41] basically the same. They just got a

[45:43] slightly different pin layout. But we

[45:44] don't actually need to worry about those

[45:46] cables for now. Instead, we can just

[45:48] tuck them out of the way and then just

[45:50] gently lay the case down flat like so.

[45:52] And we're going to pick our motherboard

[45:54] up and put it in here. But it's worth

[45:55] bearing in mind a couple of things.

[45:56] Firstly, you have what's called an IO

[45:58] shield on most motherboards. Now, that's

[46:00] actually baked into the motherboard. So,

[46:01] if I hadn't told you this, you'd never

[46:02] know about it, you know. Fine, great.

[46:04] But if you go for a budget friendly

[46:05] system, you probably get this little

[46:07] metal plate inside the motherboard box.

[46:09] You need to push this here and this

[46:11] little hole. Look, as otherwise, you're

[46:13] going to have well, massive hole in your

[46:14] computer. It's meant to be a bit of

[46:16] shielding, but these days I don't really

[46:18] think it really does much, but hey, like

[46:20] put it in otherwise your PC will look a

[46:21] little bit weird. Uh, then you also need

[46:23] to bear in mind these points here. These

[46:24] are the standoffs that we spoke about

[46:26] earlier. So, most cases have them

[46:29] pre-installed. So, if you're using an

[46:30] ATX case, a large case like we are here,

[46:33] you can see everything that says A

[46:35] actually has a standoff pre-applied. But

[46:37] if we wanted to put a smaller

[46:39] motherboard inside this, this is when

[46:41] we'd need to use our good old friend,

[46:42] the pliers, cuz we need to take these

[46:44] out and then move them to all of the

[46:46] holes that say M. I say all of them. It

[46:48] depends on the motherboard. Some

[46:49] MicroATX motherboards have more holes

[46:50] than others, which is a little bit

[46:51] annoying, but you should know about it

[46:53] if it doesn't line up cuz you'll go to

[46:54] push your motherboard in and something

[46:56] won't quite be right. It should fit

[46:58] really nice and flush. But again, you've

[47:00] got ITX as well. So, it would just be

[47:01] these four screws if you're doing ITX.

[47:04] This case does actually come with a

[47:05] little uh removal tool for the

[47:07] standoffs. So, you wouldn't even need to

[47:08] use the pliers, which is great. But most

[47:10] cases kind of annoyingly don't come with

[47:11] one of those. But the good news is most

[47:13] people should just be able to grab your

[47:14] motherboard and drop it into place as it

[47:16] will be good to go for you. So, we're

[47:19] going to do just that. We'll gently line

[47:21] this up. Be careful, but you know, if

[47:23] you have a couple of knocks, it's not

[47:24] the end of the world. It's fine. And

[47:26] this central standoff usually is a

[47:28] little bit taller. So, it kind of

[47:29] catches the motherboard and then you'll

[47:30] see that this now isn't going to move.

[47:32] Obviously, you need to screw it down.

[47:34] You're not going to leave it like this.

[47:35] Uh, but that just makes it a lot easier.

[47:36] As I say, it kind of like catches it in

[47:38] place. I'm going to show some B-roll now

[47:40] of the motherboard screws that you're

[47:41] going to need to use. These will come in

[47:43] the box and they've got these kind of

[47:44] like ring on it so you know that they're

[47:46] the right ones. But, this particular

[47:48] case also comes with a case of screws

[47:50] which is nice and they should be pre-

[47:52] sorted for you as well. So, it's very

[47:54] easy to work out what screws it is that

[47:56] you need. But the motherboard ones are

[47:58] those ring ones. And then, as you'd

[48:00] expect, you just need to screw in to all

[48:01] of those open points on the board.

[48:07] Once you've done that, you should notice

[48:09] that your PC is starting to resemble a

[48:12] PC. Things are getting a bit exciting.

[48:14] There's not actually that much more that

[48:16] you need to do. Now, obviously, with

[48:17] this particular case, again, remember,

[48:19] there's no fans. So, we are going to add

[48:20] these, well, I say a little bit later.

[48:22] May as well do it now. And it's

[48:23] definitely worth bearing in mind that

[48:25] different fans have different levels of

[48:26] performance, but in terms of physical

[48:28] size, different fans will go in

[48:30] different locations. So, your safest bet

[48:32] is to grab 120s. These will fit in

[48:34] almost all places really. But if you go

[48:37] for a larger chassis, then you'll find

[48:39] you can get 140 mil fans. 140s are

[48:42] pretty much always better. The reason

[48:43] for this is just because you have a

[48:45] larger mass of fan, so it doesn't need

[48:46] to spin as fast and cause as much noise

[48:49] to actually move as much air, which is

[48:51] great. So you can get better performance

[48:52] and lower noise levels, but most fans

[48:54] are 120 because most cases accept 120s.

[48:57] But we're going to put these three

[48:58] reverse blade fans here. I was thinking

[49:00] about adding two more, but I think that

[49:03] is a waste of money, so we're just going

[49:04] to use the three. There you go. I've

[49:06] just saved you 105 quid. Just as easy as

[49:08] that. I told you we're going to make

[49:09] some mistakes, but the good news was we

[49:11] can clear them up as we go along. So

[49:13] these being fancy fans, one of the

[49:14] reasons they're more expensive is

[49:15] because they actually use one of these

[49:17] intelligent hubs, like one of these IQ

[49:19] Link hubs. So unlike traditional fans

[49:20] that have two cables, they can get

[49:22] messy. One for RGB, one for fan speed.

[49:24] Uh they all daisy chain together and

[49:25] then over one cable they connect to the

[49:27] hub and then everything is just going to

[49:29] be much cleaner and tidier. So these are

[49:31] quite high-end, but remember that you

[49:32] definitely do not have to buy these

[49:34] specific ones. And again, depending on

[49:36] the case, you'll probably get some

[49:37] fitted as standard, which for most

[49:39] builds will be absolutely fine. But here

[49:40] you can see these are pretty high-end,

[49:42] actually. They're nice looking fans,

[49:43] though. Expensive, but nice. But that's

[49:45] what I mean about like reverse blades.

[49:47] This still looks fine to me, but

[49:49] obviously that side looks nicer than

[49:51] this side, which is why you want to make

[49:52] sure you buy the appropriate fan. But

[49:54] with these Corsair ones, you have these

[49:56] little connections that literally just

[49:57] push in. And then you get a little

[49:58] plastic dummy for rigidity as well. Then

[50:00] you should just be able to get these two

[50:02] fans, line them up, and then as if by

[50:05] magnet, there you are. They connect

[50:07] together. Very straightforward, pretty

[50:08] tough, pretty sturdy. Let's do the same

[50:10] though with our third fan. And then

[50:12] making sure we've got the orientation

[50:13] that we want, we can just position these

[50:15] in the side of the case, pick up our fan

[50:18] screws. And I will say that these are

[50:19] kind of the fancy screws that come with

[50:21] Corsair fans. They make it a lot easier

[50:22] to screw in. The normal fan screw looks

[50:24] like this. Little bit longer, a little

[50:26] bit chunkier, and just requires a bit

[50:28] more screwing. But I'll come around this

[50:29] side. Look, so you can properly see. All

[50:31] I'm going to do is grab one screw and

[50:33] just gently get this in. Remember,

[50:36] because we have this block, we don't

[50:37] need to do a screw for every single one.

[50:39] That's one of the advantages for going

[50:41] for daisy chainable fans, but just get

[50:43] one in just to kind of line it up and

[50:45] then you can tighten as you go. I mean,

[50:48] with fans, it's a lot harder to

[50:49] overtighten. So, I wouldn't worry about

[50:51] it too much, but the more screws you're

[50:53] going to use, the more secure it's in

[50:55] place and the less chance of any

[50:56] vibrations. So, this is the way I'll

[50:58] check just to kind of do that. But there

[50:59] you go. Look, as if by magic, and to be

[51:01] fair, they are expensive, but they are

[51:03] so easy to install and obviously very,

[51:05] very clean. You will now have some fans

[51:07] in your case. And do you see how much

[51:09] better and more normal that looks? Not

[51:11] sure it needed to cost £105, but you can

[51:13] do that for probably what, like 30, 35,

[51:16] or you could just get a case, as I say,

[51:17] that comes with them fitted as standard.

[51:19] But that's good to go. So, what we need

[51:20] to do now is start thinking about

[51:22] cables. So, I'm going to turn this round

[51:23] again just to ensure you can see. And

[51:26] those same cables that we showed you

[51:27] earlier, it's now time to kind of like

[51:29] tuck them into their respective

[51:30] positions. So, it'll be slightly

[51:31] different depending on the case or the

[51:32] motherboard, but mostly it's the same.

[51:35] We just want to get this USB and then

[51:37] feed that through to the main chamber

[51:38] somewhere in the middle. The HD audio

[51:40] and the addressable RGB we can tuck

[51:42] through to the bottom. USBC can come

[51:44] here at the top. The power switch goes

[51:46] right down here at the bottom. And then

[51:48] lastly, our SATA we're going to leave

[51:49] for a little bit cuz we can't plug that

[51:51] in until our power supply is installed.

[51:53] So, when we give this another spin

[51:55] around and then cutting to my favorite

[51:57] thing in the world, the B-roll we took

[51:58] earlier, we can get these plugged in.

[52:00] So, the power switch again goes at the

[52:02] bottom right hand side of the

[52:04] motherboard. It's not reversible, so

[52:06] make sure this is plugging in the right

[52:07] way. Then we have our USBs, and again,

[52:09] lovely B-roll. Look, we've got our USB 3

[52:13] and then our USBC. I'm not sure how this

[52:16] is going to look, but this is what we've

[52:17] done so far. We're mixing two formats.

[52:19] It's very edgy here on this channel. And

[52:21] then cutting back to our best friend BL,

[52:23] we have our addressable RGB right down

[52:25] at the bottom. And then our HD audio

[52:28] again all the way at the bottom left.

[52:30] Once you've done it, it should look

[52:31] something like this. But it's good

[52:32] practice just to kind of go over all of

[52:34] those cables again. Just give them a

[52:35] slight push just to make sure that they

[52:37] are in properly and any slack if you can

[52:39] kind of push it through just to make it

[52:40] a little bit neater. It's definitely

[52:42] going to help you. I think the next

[52:44] thing that we need to do is to install

[52:45] the cooler though. It says almost

[52:47] knocking screws flying everywhere. So

[52:49] let's return to this. And rather than

[52:51] plugging the pump head into the

[52:53] motherboard first, it's always better

[52:54] really to grab your radiator and install

[52:56] this. Having said that, depending on the

[52:58] case, sometimes it's going to be easier

[53:00] to plug a power supply cable into the

[53:03] top here now rather than putting the

[53:06] radiator in because if there's not much

[53:07] clearance here at the top, you'll find

[53:09] as soon as you put your radiator in, it

[53:11] will actually physically cover up a lot

[53:12] of the ports here. So, this could be

[53:14] your CPU fan, could be your address RGB

[53:16] or any of these powers. In this case,

[53:18] I'm not bothered about it because we've

[53:20] got a lot of space, but on most cases,

[53:22] it's good practice to think about this

[53:23] before you install it. There's just two

[53:25] screws here on the back that I need to

[53:26] remove. And then this will obviously

[53:28] come out. Then we can see, I'll show

[53:30] you, look, that we actually have this

[53:32] kind of rail here, and this is where our

[53:34] radiator obviously going to fit. But

[53:36] there's quite a few cases that you have

[53:37] multiple sizes. So, this could be for

[53:39] slightly larger fans if you're using

[53:41] 140s, or maybe if you just want to kind

[53:43] of bring it out or push it back a little

[53:45] bit. uh cases that give you more

[53:46] flexibility are usually kind of nicer to

[53:49] work with. But here, all we need to do

[53:51] is just kind of put that pump head there

[53:53] and let it sit for a second. And then

[53:55] just gently bring this up. Realize that

[53:57] I haven't got the screws out yet. So,

[53:59] let's grab this bag that lovingly says

[54:01] screws on it and open this up. And this

[54:02] is where I say you don't want to get

[54:04] your screws muddled really. So, you want

[54:07] to make sure you know what's what. These

[54:09] longer ones you'll see are if you're

[54:10] going to get a fan and actually kind of

[54:12] go through the fan into the radiator to

[54:14] to secure it this way. Uh whereas the

[54:16] ones we want are these really small

[54:18] ones. And you do get washers as well as

[54:21] depending on the case, you might find

[54:22] that the hole up here is a little bit

[54:24] too big. So once again, let's line this

[54:25] up into position. And this is where

[54:27] having two people is a lot easier. But

[54:29] you can just put that screw in. Grab

[54:31] your screwdriver. Potentially wish that

[54:33] you had more friends available. And then

[54:35] just put one in like that. Be sure not

[54:38] to drop this yet as you'll be putting

[54:39] way too much force on one bit of the

[54:41] radiator and you don't want to bend

[54:42] anything. So instead, screw in the other

[54:45] corner. Even if it's just a little bit,

[54:47] there you go. Then your back and

[54:48] shoulders will be very grateful. You can

[54:51] loosen this one up a bit then. And then

[54:52] you can see you can just kind of slide

[54:53] it so you can get it into the exact

[54:55] position that you want. And you should

[54:56] see what I mean here. You can just about

[54:58] going to still see all of those

[55:00] connections. And there's big holes at

[55:01] the back. So actually managing this

[55:03] should be fine. But again, if it's a

[55:04] shorter case, it would get problematic.

[55:06] Now, so let's continue with the rest of

[55:08] the screws. Then we can get our top

[55:09] panel and slide that back on. And then

[55:12] to make things as easy as possible, I'm

[55:14] going to lay this down flat once again.

[55:16] And obviously, we do need to get our

[55:17] pump head. And at this stage, you'd

[55:19] hopefully still have like a plastic

[55:21] cover and some thermal compound

[55:23] pre-applied to this exact unit. But

[55:24] again, cuz I'm reusing this, I need to

[55:26] grab some more. That was I was going to

[55:28] say purchase separately. ASUS actually

[55:30] sent this one out, but you'll need to

[55:31] grab some separately. And then once

[55:32] again, kind of like a P-sized amount in

[55:34] the middle. And then it really should

[55:35] just be a case of lining this up, look,

[55:37] with those holes, grabbing your

[55:39] screwdriver, and then 20% force on one

[55:41] bit, the same on the other diagonal, and

[55:43] then it's just a case of tightening up

[55:44] the rest. And I tell you what, guys,

[55:46] this really is starting to look like a

[55:48] gaming PC now, isn't it? And especially

[55:50] at the point of installing your graphics

[55:52] card. I can't stress enough again, watch

[55:54] the guide in the top right corner of

[55:56] your screen that goes through how to

[55:57] pick a graphics card and just make sure

[55:59] that you do get the right one for you.

[56:01] Uh, but I'd say for most people it's

[56:03] still expensive, but this is kind of the

[56:04] best mid-range option really. It's a

[56:06] 5060 Ti 16 gig. This is going to be

[56:09] great for 1080p, 1440, and actually a

[56:11] fair amount of 4K gaming as long as

[56:13] you're willing to use DLSS. It's going

[56:15] to be okay at ray tracing, but not like

[56:17] amazing, but I think most people are

[56:19] okay with that. And it's going to give

[56:20] you high multiplayer frame rates as

[56:22] well. So, pretty much all you need. But

[56:23] if you step up to this to something like

[56:25] a 5070, 5070Ti, 9070, 9070 XT, then

[56:29] you're just going to have even higher

[56:30] frame rates really in multiplayer games

[56:32] and it will allow you to turn on a few

[56:34] more RA tracing settings in single

[56:36] player. But as I say, for most people,

[56:38] this is probably all you need. If you

[56:39] want to step down, I would go for a 9060

[56:41] XT from AMD because it's performance

[56:43] isn't that far away from this, but

[56:45] usually is a fair bit cheaper and it

[56:46] still has 16 GB of VRAM, which is nice.

[56:49] But let's get this out of the box. And

[56:51] this particular version is from Pallet,

[56:53] but obviously you've got a whole host of

[56:55] different manufacturers and I don't

[56:56] really have any favorites to be honest

[56:58] because you'll find that actually the

[56:59] cards, they're all using the same GPU.

[57:01] So in theory, the performance should be

[57:03] basically the same. But you will find

[57:04] that they will vary depending on the

[57:06] size of the graphics card. So thickness,

[57:08] length, and then obviously the amount of

[57:09] fans and things that they have. And

[57:11] generally speaking, the more fans and

[57:12] the more cooling you've got, the quieter

[57:14] it will be. But especially in this

[57:15] generation, I can't really think of any

[57:17] graphics cards that are really loud. You

[57:19] used to get that all of the time on the

[57:20] cheaper ones, but these days I'd

[57:21] probably just go for the entry-level

[57:23] ones because in almost all instances,

[57:24] they're more than good enough really.

[57:26] People like ASUS, Semi, Gigabytes, all

[57:28] of them. No one's not guilty of this.

[57:30] They build really overspecs cards and

[57:33] kind of give it all all that about how

[57:34] great it is, but in terms of frame

[57:36] rates, as I say, they're not really that

[57:37] different and they're just making a load

[57:39] of money out of bigging uh building

[57:41] bigging I've lost it. Building bigger

[57:43] calling solutions. So, go for a more

[57:45] entry- level one if you can. I've

[57:47] already removed these two slot covers

[57:49] here, but you do just take these screws

[57:50] out and then it will fit in. And in this

[57:52] particular instance, we want two and

[57:54] three to be removed. You then find this

[57:55] little PI finger here. Look. And this is

[57:58] going to go in this top slot. Uh, but

[58:00] you just want to line this up. Sorry

[58:01] about me, Ed. I just need to make sure

[58:03] it is lined up. And then you can push it

[58:05] into place. You get a nice audible

[58:06] click. And then this will be secured in.

[58:08] If you need to remove it for any reason,

[58:10] you'll find that there is this little

[58:11] catch that's quite hard to activate on

[58:13] this board actually. Oh, no, it's not.

[58:14] It's got a quick release. Some

[58:16] motherboards have one of these quick

[58:17] releases. So, you push this down and it

[58:18] will release the catch that's holding it

[58:20] into position and then you can remove

[58:21] it. If you don't do that, then you will

[58:23] break something um plastic when you're

[58:25] kind of trying to force it out. So,

[58:27] don't force it. Uh just use the uh quick

[58:28] release mechanism. But obviously, once

[58:30] you've got it installed, you will need

[58:31] to now replace those screws to get this

[58:33] fitted nice and securely. Oh, and then

[58:35] it's starting to get heavy. You'll

[58:37] probably notice this now. But look, look

[58:40] at the system as it's coming together.

[58:42] Isn't it pretty? I know it looks better

[58:44] with the more expensive caller, but

[58:46] again, remember to save money for better

[58:47] frame rates for the same cost. Uh you

[58:49] could have gone for their air cooler. I

[58:51] mean, some people don't like the look of

[58:52] these tubes, but hey, each their own

[58:54] really. This is why you want to cable

[58:55] manage as you go as well, cuz the more

[58:57] stuff you put in it, the harder it is to

[58:59] get everything to look nice. So, just

[59:01] little bit of attention to detail as you

[59:02] pro proceed throughout the build

[59:04] definitely goes a long way. But, it's

[59:05] just a couple more things to do now.

[59:07] Mainly being the power supply, but also

[59:09] to get this cooler to actually be

[59:10] plumbed in cuz at the moment it's not

[59:11] connected to anything. So, where's my

[59:13] box? And here it is. And inside here,

[59:17] remember, most builds won't need all of

[59:19] this gubbins, but I mean, it makes sense

[59:21] for me to walk you through everything

[59:22] because different brands obviously have

[59:24] similar things that work in different

[59:25] ways. So, if it was like a lean lead

[59:26] cooler, you'd still have like a junction

[59:28] box and things like this. They're much

[59:29] better when they're magnetic, which a

[59:31] lot of them are, which is quite cool.

[59:32] The Corsair one is very small, but you

[59:34] have these little connections on both

[59:35] sides and these will connect to the

[59:37] cooler or to the fans, and you can daisy

[59:39] chain them together, which is just one

[59:40] of the ways of removing the amount of

[59:42] cables that you have. You'll see that

[59:43] I've already got this plugged in. This

[59:44] is like a little dummy CPU header.

[59:47] Remember, we didn't plug a CPU fan cable

[59:49] in at the moment because we took that

[59:51] air cooler out. Well, that's what this

[59:52] is. That will connect your motherboard

[59:54] to the cooler. But then also inside the

[59:56] box, we've got the cables that will go

[59:59] to the fans alongside a USB 2 cable to

[1:00:02] actually get the cooler connected to the

[1:00:03] motherboard. And then we also have this

[1:00:05] little power connection here as well. So

[1:00:06] this is going to use a PCIe from the

[1:00:08] power supply to supply power to this

[1:00:11] hub. So all of the fans, the cooler,

[1:00:12] everything is powered over a single

[1:00:14] cable. So one of these cables needs to

[1:00:16] plug into the cooler. Then this will go

[1:00:18] to the junction box. But I can just feed

[1:00:19] this through. Look at the top to get

[1:00:21] everything neat. And then there's also

[1:00:23] one on the back of this block of fans.

[1:00:25] So, another cable that we can just feed

[1:00:28] through into the back chamber. Connect

[1:00:30] the pump head to this little block. Then

[1:00:32] we need to get this fan cable that's

[1:00:34] going from the top fans into these fans,

[1:00:37] which isn't actually that fiddly when

[1:00:39] you compare it to the alternative, but

[1:00:41] it feels fiddly at the moment. And I

[1:00:42] must admit, I am asking myself, why

[1:00:44] didn't I do this when I installed the

[1:00:46] fans? Do the same to the port at the

[1:00:48] bottom. Then get this connected to the

[1:00:50] hub. You also need to connect the USB to

[1:00:52] the bottom of the hub alongside the

[1:00:54] power. Then just feed the CPU cable all

[1:00:56] the way up to the top. And again,

[1:00:57] remembering to cable manage as you go.

[1:00:59] So, I'm going to loosen this and just

[1:01:00] snap all of the cables into position.

[1:01:02] Then you just connect that USB to one of

[1:01:04] the ports at the bottom. Then that CPU

[1:01:06] cable plugs into that CPU header. And

[1:01:08] then I'm really pleased to say that we

[1:01:10] actually are almost done. It's almost

[1:01:12] time to get gaming. It is literally just

[1:01:14] the power supply to go. And once again,

[1:01:16] as a reminder, this power supply is a

[1:01:18] little bit oversp spec for this system.

[1:01:19] I'd probably go for a 750 for this. But

[1:01:22] again, depends obviously what you're

[1:01:23] going to upgrade to and obviously what

[1:01:25] you want to prioritize. This particular

[1:01:26] one is also from Corsair RM850e, but

[1:01:29] there's quite a few brands personally

[1:01:31] speaking that I trust, but I've used

[1:01:32] like Corsair power supplies for ages.

[1:01:34] And as far as I know, I haven't had any

[1:01:36] real issues. I think there was one is a

[1:01:38] watercooled system, and I don't know

[1:01:39] whether it's the power supply that's

[1:01:40] causing the system to turn off or

[1:01:42] something else I've done. That's still

[1:01:43] under investigation. But yeah, Corsair

[1:01:45] power supplies I've been using for

[1:01:46] years. They're pretty good, but MSI make

[1:01:48] good ones as well. CIC loads

[1:01:50] essentially, but obviously always look

[1:01:52] at the individual one, the reviews and

[1:01:53] how they perform essentially. But you'll

[1:01:55] notice that this doesn't have any cables

[1:01:57] pre-attached. This is actually not

[1:01:59] normal for a power supply. It kind of is

[1:02:01] in PC gaming, but most power supplies

[1:02:04] are called non-modular, which means

[1:02:05] everything is pre-attached and it saves

[1:02:07] you money. The benefit of having a

[1:02:09] modular power supply is that you only

[1:02:11] need to plug in the cables that you

[1:02:12] actually need, which neatens everything

[1:02:14] up. It potentially means in the future

[1:02:16] that you can get different cables,

[1:02:17] whether that's ones that look better or

[1:02:19] if there's a new standard that's brought

[1:02:21] in. Sometimes they will bring out like

[1:02:23] adapters like Corsair for PCI generation

[1:02:25] 5. Uh they brought out these adaption

[1:02:27] cables that could be plugged in which

[1:02:28] were pretty cool. Uh but it is just nice

[1:02:30] to not have the cables in your rig that

[1:02:32] you don't need. But it's a good

[1:02:33] illustration here to show you what we

[1:02:34] need. I'll get this the right way up.

[1:02:36] You can see our motherboard cables. It's

[1:02:38] a little bit weird. I I still don't

[1:02:39] really know why to this day, but you

[1:02:40] have different connections here

[1:02:42] sometimes than you do actually in your

[1:02:44] PC. I think it's a good thing cuz it

[1:02:46] then means you can't accidentally plug

[1:02:47] uh the wrong side of the cable into the

[1:02:49] wrong thing. But a lot of them look

[1:02:51] quite similar. So, motherboard will plug

[1:02:52] in here. It really is very

[1:02:54] straightforward. But do make sure that

[1:02:55] it is pushed in all the way so that

[1:02:57] clicks and you've double checked the

[1:02:59] safety and security of these because

[1:03:01] quite often, and I have had real life

[1:03:03] examples of this where I've had friends

[1:03:05] calling me saying that their PC doesn't

[1:03:07] work. They're getting really upset,

[1:03:08] really stressed. They didn't take a time

[1:03:10] out and a cup of tea, but it did just

[1:03:11] turn out that the power connections

[1:03:13] weren't actually properly inserted into

[1:03:14] their power supply. So, that's why I say

[1:03:16] always double check all your connections

[1:03:18] as you go. On this particular one, cuz

[1:03:20] it's an Nvidia GPU, we do need one of

[1:03:22] these, which is a PCI generation 5

[1:03:24] connection. If you don't have one, then

[1:03:25] you may well have an adapter inside the

[1:03:27] box with your graphics card that you can

[1:03:28] use. But these will plug in where it

[1:03:30] says PCIe/CPU.

[1:03:33] And speaking of CPU, obviously we will

[1:03:35] need our CPU connection for the

[1:03:37] motherboard. Remember I said you've got

[1:03:39] an 8 pin here, which is what most rigs

[1:03:41] need, but you'll find that some will be

[1:03:43] 28 pins or eight and four depending on

[1:03:45] the CPU that you're using. They're also

[1:03:47] labeled as well. So this is one of the

[1:03:48] ones that looks very similar um on here

[1:03:51] as it does when you actually get to the

[1:03:52] motherboard. So look at the labels and

[1:03:53] the side that says CPU that actually

[1:03:55] goes to your board. And then here, the

[1:03:56] plain side goes into the power supply.

[1:03:58] And then remember that our case actually

[1:04:00] has that bakedin RGB and had that little

[1:04:02] dangling SATA connection. So we do need

[1:04:04] to plug one of these into our power

[1:04:06] supply so we can actually obviously meet

[1:04:08] it at the other end. These are typically

[1:04:10] used for hard drives, SATA SSDs or most

[1:04:13] third party hubs will actually connect

[1:04:15] with a SATA connection. But while the

[1:04:18] case that we're using today uses SATA,

[1:04:20] the hub actually uses a PCIe cuz that

[1:04:22] can do more power. It's quite rare

[1:04:23] though. It's only really Corsair that

[1:04:25] does this. This is what one of these

[1:04:26] PCIes looks like. By the way, you'll

[1:04:28] notice that it can actually be split.

[1:04:30] So, you have six or eight. And depending

[1:04:32] on that camera's dial, depending on the

[1:04:34] graphics card that you're using, it

[1:04:36] might have a six pin, it might have an

[1:04:37] eight, or it might have a combination of

[1:04:39] multiple, but they should just pull

[1:04:41] apart like this. And just like other

[1:04:43] side of your CPU, if you need a four

[1:04:45] pin, then that usually detaches. Look.

[1:04:47] So, you don't I'm looking at that one

[1:04:48] again. It's died. You don't need to

[1:04:50] worry too much about it. You can just

[1:04:51] like split them and then use them like

[1:04:53] that. So, let's get our final PI

[1:04:55] installed, shall we? And then we should

[1:04:56] be ready to actually get this in our PC.

[1:04:59] And as I say, this is the last thing

[1:05:00] that we need to do. Now, depending on

[1:05:02] the case. Now, NZXT cases, the new ones,

[1:05:05] these are the ones that are a little bit

[1:05:06] different, but most case, you want to

[1:05:08] get your power supply, find the fan,

[1:05:10] which is where obviously it's going to

[1:05:11] be able to breathe from. And then make

[1:05:13] sure it lines up with the vents on your

[1:05:14] system, which is usually downwards. So,

[1:05:16] most cases, 90 95% uh you want these

[1:05:20] facing downwards. But the new NZXT ones,

[1:05:22] as I say, you usually want to do the

[1:05:24] opposite on those. But check your case.

[1:05:26] And then you literally just pour that

[1:05:29] into position. And then when we give

[1:05:31] this a spin round, you should see that

[1:05:32] there are some holes on the back of your

[1:05:34] case. And these need to obviously line

[1:05:36] up with the power supply. And you also

[1:05:38] have this onoff switch. You may as well

[1:05:39] just turn this on now cuz otherwise when

[1:05:41] your PC doesn't work, you might wonder

[1:05:43] why. But cutting back to our good old

[1:05:44] friend B-roll, you want to find the hex

[1:05:46] screws that either come with your power

[1:05:47] supply or the case. And then you can

[1:05:49] just grab them on the end of your

[1:05:50] screwdriver and then secure your power

[1:05:52] supply down. Oh, and then ladies and

[1:05:55] gentlemen, you should now be pretty much

[1:05:57] ready to go. There's nothing else you

[1:05:59] need to put inside this. You literally

[1:06:00] just need to wire up the last few

[1:06:02] cables. And it really is very

[1:06:03] straightforward. I promise you've done

[1:06:04] harder things throughout this video. You

[1:06:06] just literally need to grab this really

[1:06:07] thick ATX and then you put this at the

[1:06:10] top. Then you grab the one that says CPU

[1:06:12] and this can go all the way at the top

[1:06:14] right. And this is that cable that if

[1:06:16] you're using, as I say, a shorter case,

[1:06:17] I would advise putting this into your

[1:06:19] motherboard before you put your crawler

[1:06:20] crawler in. Before you put your cooler

[1:06:22] in. Then you've got your ATX3 or your

[1:06:24] PCI generation 5, depending on what you

[1:06:26] want to call it. Again, this single 16

[1:06:28] pin connection for the graphics card. Oh

[1:06:30] no, what am I saying? This is a 5060 Ti.

[1:06:32] It uses an 8 pin. There is no 16. I'm

[1:06:35] getting carried away. This is probably a

[1:06:37] good thing for the video though because,

[1:06:38] as I say, different graphics cards have

[1:06:40] different connections. And if you're

[1:06:41] using an Nvidia RTX 5070 or above, then

[1:06:45] it will almost certainly come with a

[1:06:46] 16pin power connection, which is that

[1:06:48] single cable. But because we're using a

[1:06:50] 506Ti, then we want a PCI 8 pin just

[1:06:53] like we need for that Corsair hub. So,

[1:06:55] let's pretend that didn't happen and

[1:06:56] just carefully remove this and swap it

[1:06:58] out. No one would have noticed.

[1:07:04] So, there you go then. Living proof that

[1:07:06] even I make mistakes. It's easily done,

[1:07:08] but easily rectified, too. The next

[1:07:10] thing we need to do is just to plug in

[1:07:12] these little SATA connections. These uh

[1:07:14] well, I say SATA connections. It's just

[1:07:16] the single one, isn't it? For that RGB.

[1:07:18] There's only one right way of doing

[1:07:19] this. So, if it's the wrong way, just

[1:07:20] give it a little wiggle and then that

[1:07:22] should fit in just like that. And then

[1:07:23] any cables once you're done with them,

[1:07:25] you can tidy them up by obviously

[1:07:26] clumping them down or just kind of

[1:07:28] stuffing them a little bit out of the

[1:07:29] way, out of sight, out of mind. If you

[1:07:31] can't see them, should be absolutely

[1:07:32] fine. And then last, but certainly not

[1:07:34] least, this side. We do have that power

[1:07:37] connection look for the Corsair hub. So,

[1:07:39] we can just use one single six pin.

[1:07:41] Again, remember we've split that eight

[1:07:45] into a six. Push that in until it

[1:07:46] clicks. And then from this side, I will

[1:07:48] tidy it up. But for now, we are pretty

[1:07:50] much all good to go, which means last

[1:07:53] but certainly not least, we obviously

[1:07:54] need to plug in the cables this side. So

[1:07:56] for our graphics card, it is one eight

[1:07:58] pin. Some GPUs you'll need a daisy

[1:08:01] chain, but this one look just a single

[1:08:03] connection that we can push in and then

[1:08:05] tuck in and neaten like that. And then

[1:08:08] we can come around to the top. Look, and

[1:08:09] our ATX just inserts like so. And then

[1:08:12] our final cable look, and I'm very

[1:08:14] excited about this one, is the CPU. And

[1:08:17] again, this is going to get a little bit

[1:08:19] tight if you've got a shorter case, but

[1:08:21] should be okay on this. Cable's a little

[1:08:23] bit twisted. So, we just need to move

[1:08:24] this round. And then give it a wiggle

[1:08:26] and a push, and that should click into

[1:08:28] position. And then, ladies and

[1:08:30] gentlemen, there you are. We don't know

[1:08:32] it works yet. We've got one cable to

[1:08:34] tidy up. But beside that, I think we are

[1:08:36] pretty much good to go. I told you it

[1:08:38] was straightforward and simple because

[1:08:40] even if you do make mistakes, as I say,

[1:08:42] you realize what you've done and you

[1:08:44] just go back and you redo it and okay,

[1:08:46] it might take you an afternoon, but

[1:08:47] especially if there's two of you, should

[1:08:49] be relatively stress free. And

[1:08:50] obviously, if you've gone for all of the

[1:08:52] parts that we're using here, you can

[1:08:53] follow along almost precisely at home.

[1:08:55] Just like don't make that mistake with a

[1:08:57] cable. But if you're building other

[1:08:58] parts, which let's be honest, you

[1:08:59] probably are, then the good news is that

[1:09:01] for the most part, it's all exactly the

[1:09:03] same. It's only that Corsair bit that's

[1:09:05] a little bit proprietary. Sometimes the

[1:09:07] mounting with the uh coolers obviously

[1:09:09] is a little bit different. The cables

[1:09:10] for the graphics card, you know, small

[1:09:12] things like that, but the whole process

[1:09:14] is the same. Doesn't matter the brand of

[1:09:16] motherboard as well. All of the ports,

[1:09:18] they might be like different amounts of

[1:09:19] them, but the ports are all the same

[1:09:21] standards as long as obviously it

[1:09:22] supports that standard. So, there's not

[1:09:24] really too much to worry about. It's a

[1:09:26] nice easy process just cable manage as

[1:09:28] you go just to try and make it nice and

[1:09:30] neat. Because at the moment, this is

[1:09:32] looking not exactly fantastic, is it?

[1:09:34] Whereas if I had been kind of tucking

[1:09:36] these throughout the video rather than

[1:09:38] being very conscious that that camera

[1:09:40] was uh going to run out of storage, then

[1:09:42] this would have been a whole lot easier.

[1:09:44] But the thing I like about this case as

[1:09:45] well is that obviously you get this

[1:09:47] little panel that in theory once we put

[1:09:49] that back into position can obviously

[1:09:51] help to kind of hide some of these

[1:09:53] cables and any oddities essentially. So

[1:09:56] there's a lot more work we can do. But

[1:09:57] before you do any of that because that

[1:09:59] is one of the other mistakes people

[1:10:00] make. be way way too aggressive uh with

[1:10:04] the cable management. They've got to get

[1:10:05] it perfect before you've tested that it

[1:10:07] works. And then if something doesn't

[1:10:09] work, you have to pull it all apart and

[1:10:10] you're just going to be tearing your

[1:10:11] hair out. So instead, before we cable

[1:10:14] manage, let's see if it works. And your

[1:10:16] best bet for this, and I know it's going

[1:10:17] to sound like I'm joking, but I'm dead

[1:10:19] serious, is to grab yourself a PC

[1:10:20] monitor specifically. Now, a TV should

[1:10:24] be fine, but the reason I say this is

[1:10:26] because my first ever build, besides the

[1:10:28] power button being plugged into power

[1:10:30] LED rather than power switch, I was

[1:10:31] actually plugging it into a TV that

[1:10:33] didn't support the signal that gets sent

[1:10:35] from your computer to your screen when

[1:10:37] you're in the motherboard. So,

[1:10:39] everything was working, but I didn't

[1:10:41] know this because the display was

[1:10:42] completely black and I didn't know. And

[1:10:44] it was only when I changed, I think, to

[1:10:45] a different cable or might have actually

[1:10:46] been to a different display that I could

[1:10:48] see everything was working properly and

[1:10:50] then I could set everything up and then

[1:10:51] go back to use the television I was

[1:10:53] using and it would just work, but it

[1:10:54] just wouldn't work in the BIOS. Uh, so

[1:10:56] for that reason, if you have a monitor

[1:10:57] does help, but obviously by all means

[1:10:59] try a TV. Uh, but be aware if if it's

[1:11:02] just getting a black signal, but

[1:11:03] everything else seems to be working

[1:11:04] fine, it could be your display that's a

[1:11:06] problem. And speaking of display output,

[1:11:08] by the way, one of the key and biggest

[1:11:09] mistakes that I see people make when

[1:11:11] they're plugging in their computer and

[1:11:12] then thinking that the whole thing

[1:11:14] doesn't work is that they've actually

[1:11:15] grabbed their HDMI or display port cable

[1:11:17] and they've come along and they found it

[1:11:19] on their motherboard. Look, and they've

[1:11:21] connected it like that to the monitor,

[1:11:22] turn it on, nothing happens. Why? I've

[1:11:25] plugged it in. Well, actually, it's

[1:11:27] because instead of plugging the display

[1:11:29] into the motherboard, you have to plug

[1:11:31] it into the graphics card because the

[1:11:33] CPUs, or at least a lot of them will

[1:11:35] have what we call integrated GPUs. And

[1:11:37] if you plug into the motherboard, you're

[1:11:38] expecting that to output. But this often

[1:11:40] gets automatically shut off when you

[1:11:43] plug in a discrete graphics card. And

[1:11:45] then what you're supposed to do is plug

[1:11:46] into this and then the graphics card is

[1:11:47] going to go to your display. Sometimes

[1:11:49] you'll find that you might get a display

[1:11:51] output and it kind of will work if you

[1:11:52] plug into your motherboard, but that

[1:11:54] would still be misconfigured and

[1:11:55] wouldn't give you like the optimum

[1:11:56] refresh rate and optimum experience. So,

[1:11:58] you always want to plug in to the

[1:12:00] graphics card at the bottom. But let's

[1:12:01] get that hooked up, plugged into power.

[1:12:03] We're going to plug in a keyboard and

[1:12:04] mouse, but nothing else. And then, of

[1:12:06] course, the single most important thing

[1:12:08] of this whole video, you need to grab

[1:12:10] yourself a PCcentric mouse mat from

[1:12:12] pccentric.store

[1:12:14] or find the link down below. This thing

[1:12:16] is in a clearance sale. Once it's gone,

[1:12:18] it's gone. It would really help out the

[1:12:19] channel if you've enjoyed this video and

[1:12:21] if you're new to PC gaming, you get

[1:12:22] something that looks fantastic. And this

[1:12:24] is always the big question, isn't it?

[1:12:27] The moment of truth. You should hear a

[1:12:28] little wor. You should start to see like

[1:12:30] some RGB slowly coming to life. Usually

[1:12:33] the fans don't light up straight away.

[1:12:35] There's a bit of a delay on it. But if

[1:12:37] you press your button and nothing

[1:12:38] happens, at least wait like 10 seconds

[1:12:40] before you panic. Then obviously if it

[1:12:42] doesn't light up, you can check all of

[1:12:44] your connections. And then the next

[1:12:45] stage is you've got to hope that you see

[1:12:47] a series of lights here. A white LED at

[1:12:50] the top right is usually a good sign.

[1:12:52] And then assuming that your monitor is

[1:12:54] actually plugged into power, which

[1:12:55] obviously I've forgotten to do, so uh

[1:12:57] you then should see something come up on

[1:12:59] your display. That's two mistakes I've

[1:13:00] made in this video. Now, should we try

[1:13:02] again? Hopefully this time we are going

[1:13:04] to get an output. We've spent a lot of

[1:13:06] time on this. is going to be, as I say,

[1:13:08] a lot of stress if you're kind of

[1:13:09] building this from scratch and you

[1:13:11] haven't done it before, but good things

[1:13:12] come to those who wait. And ladies and

[1:13:15] gentlemen, there it is. You have now

[1:13:17] created your well, could be your second,

[1:13:20] but your first gaming PC. And when

[1:13:23] you've got this like display output, you

[1:13:25] know, for the most part at least that it

[1:13:27] should work properly. If you don't get

[1:13:29] this far, as I say, you're just going to

[1:13:30] check your cable connections, have a

[1:13:32] look at any error codes that appear on

[1:13:33] your PC. In fact, if you want to see a

[1:13:35] full video that goes through every

[1:13:37] reason why your PC went boot, you can

[1:13:38] find it in the top right corner of your

[1:13:40] screen. You can watch this before you

[1:13:41] get your parts so you know what you're

[1:13:42] doing or obviously watch it after

[1:13:43] bookmark it in case you need it. But

[1:13:45] yes, if you can see this screen, that is

[1:13:47] a great result. All you need to do now

[1:13:49] is just press F1 on your keyboard. Then

[1:13:51] you'll enter this, which is the BIOS,

[1:13:53] and then you'll see a screen like this.

[1:13:55] Depends on the motherboard that you're

[1:13:56] using. If it's like Gigabyte, MSI,

[1:13:58] ASRock, it will obviously look slightly

[1:13:59] different, but essentially this is where

[1:14:01] you can control your motherboard. So you

[1:14:03] can change like the fan speed, you can

[1:14:05] turn like your RAM overclocking on. The

[1:14:08] way we do this is where it says expo,

[1:14:09] we're going to set this to enabled and

[1:14:11] then the PC will restart once we've

[1:14:12] saved and exited uh with all of the

[1:14:15] changes. And then assuming it works

[1:14:16] properly, sometimes it won't and you

[1:14:18] have to reverse this. Then your RAM will

[1:14:19] then run at its full rated speed rather

[1:14:21] than the slower base speed that it will

[1:14:23] just run by for safety essentially. But

[1:14:25] I would advise that you do tune your

[1:14:27] fans. So just go into your fan tuning

[1:14:29] utility here. It's called Q fan control.

[1:14:31] just make sure you set everything to

[1:14:32] silent essentially. But actually where

[1:14:34] we're using the Corsair fans, we need to

[1:14:36] tune these in the software uh rather

[1:14:38] than in the utility. But for most

[1:14:40] people, this will control all of your

[1:14:42] fans. Once you've done that though,

[1:14:43] really simple and straightforward. You

[1:14:44] just need to grab yourself a copy of

[1:14:45] Windows. I've made a full video that

[1:14:47] walks you through how to do this. Find

[1:14:48] it in the top right corner of your

[1:14:49] screen. But essentially, you just grab

[1:14:50] Windows on a USB flash drive by

[1:14:52] downloading it on a different computer.

[1:14:53] Then you whack this in the back of your

[1:14:55] system. Then you can just turn it off,

[1:14:57] restart, and then follow the

[1:14:59] instructions, and then you'll be away.

[1:15:01] And then, ladies and gentlemen, you've

[1:15:02] got everything set up. Your gaming PC is

[1:15:05] complete. And the story doesn't stop

[1:15:06] there. If you want to see exactly what

[1:15:08] you need to do next, how to set up your

[1:15:09] PC for all of the best experiences and

[1:15:11] to obviously play like I would, I

[1:15:13] suppose, you can find that video again

[1:15:15] in the top rightand corner of your

[1:15:16] screen or link down below that will go

[1:15:17] through all of the best practices to set

[1:15:19] up a gaming PC from scratch. As I say,

[1:15:22] thanks for watching this video. Smash

[1:15:23] the like button, get yourself

[1:15:24] subscribed, and if you do want to check

[1:15:25] out current pricing on anything that was

[1:15:27] featured in this video, you can find

[1:15:28] that listed down below with our

[1:15:30] affiliate links for all of these parts

[1:15:31] and similar parts. And once again, a

[1:15:33] massive thank you to Overclockers UK for

[1:15:35] sponsoring this video. It's really

[1:15:36] helpful. And if you do want to grab PC

[1:15:38] parts in the UK, then they are

[1:15:39] absolutely one of the best places to go.

[1:15:41] And as I say, that next day delivery

[1:15:43] really can be incredibly helpful. But

[1:15:45] thank you guys so much. We'll catch you

[1:15:47] in the next one.

[1:15:49] [Music]