How To Buy A Used Car - Step By Step Guide & Tips - Great Britain

[00:00] One owner from new blue magnific paint.

[00:03] Come closer. Come closer. I'm not

[00:05] charging enough to include delivery.

[00:08] This logo here stands for form. You are

[00:11] racing. Better than a Capri gear and

[00:14] faster than Neil Armstrong. You know it

[00:17] makes sense. Oh contr Dellboy. Oh contr.

[00:21] Even though this thing has had one owner

[00:24] from new me. It's literally being driven

[00:28] by hundreds of people who can't drive.

[00:31] And the only thing this car has in

[00:33] common with Neil Armstrong

[00:36] is the fact it's done enough miles to

[00:39] make it to the moon. Well, almost. So,

[00:42] here are some tips to help you buy a

[00:44] used car. And my first tip is not to

[00:46] simply go to your local used car dealer

[00:48] because, well, you're going to be

[00:50] limiting your choice to what they happen

[00:52] to have in stock. Search online and be

[00:55] willing to travel. In my opinion, it's

[00:58] worth risking a day of your time to find

[01:00] the right used car for the right price.

[01:03] Online, you can use Autotrader. It has a

[01:05] brilliant search tool. Not only can you

[01:08] search via make and model, but mileage,

[01:10] age, even naugh to 60 time. The problem

[01:13] with Autotrader is it's expensive for

[01:16] dealers to put their cars on it, which

[01:18] means, well, you end up paying for that

[01:20] when you buy the car because they have

[01:21] to transfer that cost onto you by

[01:23] putting that cost onto the price of the

[01:25] car. If you're looking for the absolute

[01:27] cheapest cars, well, Facebook

[01:29] Marketplace may be a good place to

[01:31] start. You can also use eBay as well.

[01:33] That's a good place for used cars.

[01:35] Plenty of cars on there. It doesn't

[01:37] matter where you find your car. What

[01:39] matters is that you find the car you're

[01:41] looking for. The next thing to consider

[01:43] is whether or not the car is being sold

[01:45] by a dealer known as a trade seller or a

[01:48] private seller, which is the current

[01:49] owner of the car. There is a significant

[01:52] difference. If you're buying from a

[01:54] dealer, well, you have the Consumer

[01:56] Rights Act 2015 by your side. If there

[02:00] is a problem with the car, you can go

[02:02] back to the dealer. Make sure you let

[02:04] the dealer know as soon as possible

[02:05] because time does matter. The longer you

[02:07] leave it, the less rights you have. And

[02:10] don't just call them. Put it in writing.

[02:12] If the dealer is not playing ball, then

[02:15] go to the financial ombbudsman. When you

[02:18] buy from a private seller, though, you

[02:20] don't have those rights. That private

[02:22] seller could have a car that needs an

[02:25] expensive repair that they're trying to

[02:27] pass on to somebody else. You buy the

[02:29] car unaware of this repair that's

[02:31] needed. You find out later and there's

[02:33] nothing you can do about it. I don't

[02:36] recommend someone who knows little about

[02:38] cars buy from a private seller. It's

[02:40] better for people who are clued up about

[02:42] cars to buy from a private seller

[02:43] because they well they're more likely to

[02:45] know if there's a problem. Also, I don't

[02:48] recommend buying high value cars from

[02:50] private sellers either. Before you

[02:52] contact the seller of the car, there are

[02:54] three things you need to do. The first

[02:55] thing is to find out how much it costs

[02:57] to ensure that actual car you're going

[02:59] to view. I'll leave a link in the

[03:01] description to confuse.com. It's a price

[03:02] comparison website for car insurance

[03:04] amongst other things. I like using them

[03:06] because it's quick and easy. And once

[03:09] your details are stored, you just log in

[03:12] and you can find out the price to insure

[03:13] a car very quickly and compare different

[03:16] insurers. They're not sponsoring this

[03:18] video, but it is an affiliate link. So,

[03:20] if you click on it, depending on what

[03:22] happens afterwards, I may get a small

[03:24] commission, but it doesn't cost you

[03:25] anything. The reason why you want to get

[03:27] a quote for the actual car you're going

[03:29] to view is because you can have two cars

[03:32] that are exactly the same or at least

[03:34] you think they are exactly the same and

[03:36] one cost significantly more to insure

[03:39] than the other. So you may be thinking,

[03:41] "Oh, I've got a quote for that other

[03:42] car. This car is the same. It's going to

[03:44] be the same price." You go and buy the

[03:46] car and then find out, oh criy, the car

[03:49] insurance is a lot more. So you don't

[03:50] want that nasty surprise. you want to

[03:52] get a price for the actual car you're

[03:54] going to view. The next thing is vehicle

[03:57] excise duty or road tax as most people

[04:00] call it. The same thing is true. You can

[04:02] have two cars that appear to be exactly

[04:05] the same but the cost to put road tax on

[04:08] them is vastly different and that's

[04:10] because rules change and also throughout

[04:12] the lifetime of the car it's going to be

[04:13] tweaked and that can make a difference

[04:15] to how much it costs to tax it and the

[04:17] difference can be great.

[04:20] And the third thing is to go on to theot

[04:23] history check website. It's free to use.

[04:25] I'll leave a link in the description.

[04:27] You put the number plate of the car in

[04:29] and you can see the history of the

[04:31] car's. You can see where it's passed

[04:33] failed, why it's failed, and the

[04:35] advisories. Once you have found out how

[04:38] much it costs to insure it, tax it, and

[04:40] you've looked at theote history, now

[04:43] it's time to contact the seller. My tip

[04:46] is to have a list of information that

[04:48] you want to find out. list on screen.

[04:50] Now, you can add to that list or take

[04:52] away from it. It's up to you. But that

[04:54] is my advice. This is the information

[04:55] you really want to find out when you

[04:57] contact the seller. You can email it to

[04:59] them or you can call them. I prefer to

[05:02] call them so I get an idea of what they

[05:03] are like. Are they answering my

[05:05] questions? Are they rabbiting on about

[05:07] nonsense for ages and ignoring what I'm

[05:09] asking them? How easy are they to deal

[05:11] with? Do I want to buy a car off them?

[05:14] Do I want to take a car back to them if

[05:16] there's a problem with the car? The most

[05:19] important information you're trying to

[05:21] find out is the car's service history

[05:24] and whether or not there's anything

[05:25] wrong with it. Now, most cars have a

[05:28] book like this. And in this book, it

[05:30] will tell you what needs to be serviced

[05:32] and when. And there will be somewhere

[05:36] for the garage to write the date and the

[05:38] mileage of the service and then stamp

[05:40] it. It's better to look through the

[05:42] invoices though cuz that's better

[05:44] evidence that the previous owner or

[05:46] owners have serviced it. Also, does it

[05:49] have a timing chain or a timing belt? If

[05:52] it has a timing belt, that will need

[05:55] replacing every so often. Is it due soon

[05:58] or has it just been done? If you're

[06:00] driving around in a vehicle with an old

[06:02] timing belt that needs replacing, well,

[06:04] that's a ticking time bong. The engine

[06:06] could die suddenly without warning. And

[06:09] if the car has not been serviced when

[06:11] it's supposed to, well, that can cause

[06:14] irreversible damage to the engine. I

[06:17] don't recommend buying a car without a

[06:18] full service history because the engine

[06:20] is likely going to be more worn. But

[06:22] overall, it's a sign of how that car has

[06:24] been cared for. However, when you're

[06:27] looking at the lowest end of the market,

[06:29] the cheapest cars for sale, it can be

[06:31] hard to find one with a full service

[06:33] history because the car is not worth

[06:36] enough to warrant spending money on it,

[06:38] not even a service. So, when it comes to

[06:40] the cheapest cars you can buy, often

[06:42] they don't have a full service history.

[06:45] Sometimes though, it may be serviced by

[06:47] the owner, and that doesn't put me off.

[06:50] That's a good sign because that owner

[06:52] has probably taken good care of the car,

[06:55] but I would want to see receipts for the

[06:59] servicing parts as proof that they have

[07:01] serviced it. So, you've actually made it

[07:03] to come and view the car. My next tip is

[07:06] to make another list. Look around the

[07:09] car and write down any problems you see

[07:12] with the car. Don't rely on your memory

[07:15] because you may forget some of the

[07:16] problems. When it comes to you making a

[07:18] decision as to whether or not you're

[07:19] going to buy the car, you want all the

[07:22] information on the list in front of you

[07:23] so that you make the best decision and

[07:25] if you decide to buy it, you get the

[07:27] best deal. So, look around from top to

[07:29] bottom at the paint. Is it damaged? Are

[07:32] the panels damaged? Look at the rubbers.

[07:34] Look at the plastics. Look at the

[07:36] lights. You can see here this light has

[07:39] some crazing. These little cracks. I'll

[07:42] write that down. Look at the wheels.

[07:45] Look at the panel gaps. Are they even?

[07:48] They're going to vary in size. Like the

[07:50] panel gap for the door is going to be

[07:53] much bigger than the gap for the bumper

[07:56] and for the bonnet. But what's important

[07:59] is that they are even. They don't get

[08:01] bigger or smaller when you run your

[08:04] finger along them. Look at the tires.

[08:08] Are there cuts and bulges? What's the

[08:10] tread like? Is there much tread? How old

[08:13] are they? Find the date code just there.

[08:16] Week 20, 2024.

[08:20] Tire manufacturers recommend tires are

[08:22] replaced after 10 years. There's no law

[08:25] about that, but in my experience, tires

[08:28] aren't very good after about 5 years.

[08:30] Check the brakes. As long as they're not

[08:33] hot, you can run your finger along the

[08:36] top like that. And when you get to the

[08:38] top bit just there, there shouldn't be a

[08:42] big lip. If you can feel like a ridge

[08:44] just here, like a raised bit on the end,

[08:46] that's about one plus mil over one mil

[08:49] big, that's a sign that the brakes are

[08:51] worn. But really take your time. Don't

[08:54] just glance at it. Look around it like

[08:56] you're cleaning it. Imagine you're

[08:58] cleaning the car and you're trying to

[08:59] get every spot. That way you're going to

[09:03] see all the parts of the car and you're

[09:05] going to notice any problems. Also, you

[09:08] can look under the car. You can't see

[09:10] much these days because of all the

[09:12] plastic covers, but if there was an

[09:15] obvious problem, you'll likely see

[09:17] something if there's obvious damage or

[09:18] if there's a big oil leak. For the next

[09:20] thing, you don't need to know anything

[09:22] about engines. I've opened the bonnet

[09:24] because I'm onehanded at the moment as

[09:26] I'm holding the camera with one hand and

[09:28] it's awkward to open the bonnet with

[09:30] only one hand. Even if you know nothing

[09:33] about engines, you can have a look. You

[09:35] can look at the fluid levels. Are they

[09:36] between min and max? If you're

[09:38] struggling to see any fluid, shine a

[09:40] light on it. The light from your phone

[09:42] will probably work and help you see

[09:43] where it is. You can check the oil with

[09:45] the dipstick. And also, you can just

[09:47] look at it and see, is it like this?

[09:50] This is an honest engine. Dry and dusty.

[09:54] Is it super clean? Has someone steam

[09:57] cleaned it? Maybe to try and hide

[09:59] something or maybe just to make it look

[10:01] better. Who knows? But a dry, dusty

[10:03] engine like this is usually a very

[10:05] honest engine. Oil should be on the

[10:08] inside of the engine, not the outside.

[10:10] You shouldn't be seeing oil in the

[10:13] engine bay. Neither should you be seeing

[10:15] coolant. Coolant usually looks like well

[10:17] when it leaks you get like this salt

[10:20] buildup. It looks like a buildup of

[10:21] salt. White sort of crusty salt.

[10:24] Unfortunately from the top you can't see

[10:26] everything but you can shine a light

[10:27] down here and here to see if you can see

[10:30] any oil or any salt build up the coolant

[10:32] which looks like salt. Even better if

[10:34] you can get under the engine and have a

[10:36] look. That's going to show you even

[10:38] more. Oh, and I forgot. Another check

[10:40] you can make, even if you know nothing

[10:41] about engines, is to look underneath the

[10:44] oil filler cap, not as relevant these

[10:47] days because head gaskets don't seem to

[10:49] fail much these days, but if you take

[10:51] the oil filler cap off and look

[10:53] underneath it and there's like a white

[10:55] mayonnaise substance, that's a sign that

[10:57] your head gasket could have failed.

[10:59] There can be just a little bit of white

[11:01] on there, which can just be

[11:03] condensation, but if there's a lot of

[11:04] white mayonnaise, that's a bad sign.

[11:08] It's a new day today, hence the

[11:10] different clothes. I ran out of time

[11:11] yesterday. I had to do a lesson. The

[11:14] next thing you can do is switch the

[11:16] engine on. Now, ideally, you'll get

[11:18] somebody else to switch the engine on

[11:19] whilst you look at the exhaust to see

[11:20] what comes out the back. But if you

[11:22] can't do that, you can just do it

[11:24] yourself. Get ready. Get the door open,

[11:27] switch the engine on,

[11:29] and go around and have a look. Get to

[11:33] the exhaust and see what's coming out.

[11:35] Now, water's normal. It's okay to have a

[11:38] bit of water and it's okay for the water

[11:39] to be a little bit sy, a little bit

[11:41] black, but you should not see oil coming

[11:44] out the back. White steam, which looks

[11:47] like white smoke, but it is steam, is

[11:48] normal on a cold day, especially on a

[11:50] cold start. You'll get a fair amount of

[11:52] that, but you shouldn't have big clouds

[11:54] bellowing out the back. If you got huge

[11:57] white clouds of smoke coming out the

[11:59] back of your car, that's a problem. When

[12:02] it comes to the suspension, it's

[12:04] unlikely you're going to be able to see

[12:05] much.

[12:07] No, I can't see anything. Try and look

[12:10] under there, but still

[12:13] can't see much at all. What you can do

[12:15] is find a solid part of the car at each

[12:17] corner and give it a good push like

[12:19] this. Push it down. The car should

[12:21] settle fairly quickly. It shouldn't keep

[12:23] wobbling. That's a sign that your shock

[12:24] absorbers have failed. If it does keep

[12:27] moving for a long time, what I like to

[12:29] do is open the door because then I can

[12:31] get my hands on a solid part of the roof

[12:33] and give the car a good shove.

[12:36] And you see it's settled quickly. Could

[12:39] you hear that squeak though? Your body

[12:41] is not likely strong enough to make the

[12:43] suspension squeak when you move it. So

[12:46] the squeak you can hear, if you can hear

[12:47] it, I'll do it again.

[12:50] That's likely the handbrake. And it's

[12:53] normal for handbrekes to make that noise

[12:55] when you're bouncing the car up and down

[12:57] with the handbrake on. Next thing you

[12:59] can check is the boot. See if it opens

[13:03] and goes up and stays up and

[13:07] closes properly. Needed to try that a

[13:09] bit harder, didn't I? I'll do that

[13:10] again. There we go. In fact, make sure

[13:14] all the doors open and close. Make sure

[13:17] all the doors lock and unlock. And check

[13:20] all of the windows, electric windows or

[13:22] manual windows. Do they go up and down?

[13:24] And when it comes to checking the boot,

[13:27] have a look underneath the boot floor

[13:30] and you can see if there's any signs of

[13:31] damage. If there was obvious damage,

[13:33] it'll be sort of like this. These metal

[13:35] bits down here may be pushed forwards.

[13:36] You'll be able to see it doesn't look

[13:38] right. Uh check for the spare wheel. Is

[13:40] it there? What condition is the tire in?

[13:43] And also rust and any water that may be

[13:45] getting in here. That can happen. This

[13:47] one looks

[13:48] all good, though. When it comes to

[13:50] checking the interior, take your time.

[13:52] Don't be rushed or distracted on this

[13:55] one. Check absolutely everything.

[13:57] Anything that has a function, make sure

[14:00] it functions. Make sure it works. If it

[14:02] doesn't, add it to the list. So, check

[14:06] all the seats. Do they move as they

[14:08] should? Like up and down, forwards and

[14:09] backwards, all the functions of the

[14:11] seats, are they working? The seat belt

[14:13] as well, do they work? Do they retract?

[14:15] Are they permanently twisted? sometimes

[14:17] where someone's worked on the car and

[14:19] they've taken the seat belt out and put

[14:20] it back in. They've not put it in

[14:21] properly and it's twisted permanently.

[14:23] Shouldn't be like that. It's not good

[14:24] for safety. You want it to be flat along

[14:26] your body. Also, when you get in the

[14:28] car,

[14:29] make sure you can get a comfortable

[14:32] driving position. You don't want to buy

[14:33] a car that you can't get comfortable in.

[14:35] Does the steering wheel move as it

[14:37] should?

[14:39] Electric mirrors quite common to fail or

[14:42] be a bit sticky.

[14:44] Touchcreen are all the functions they're

[14:46] working. the sound system, the speakers,

[14:48] the heater, the air conditioning. Hard

[14:50] to check the air conditioning on a cold

[14:52] day. But when it's on maximum cold, the

[14:55] air coming out the vents should be

[14:57] between 3 and 5° C. So that's about the

[15:00] temperature of something that you've

[15:01] taken out of the fridge. That's how it

[15:03] should feel. Check the 12V socket.

[15:07] Sometimes they fail and you don't want

[15:08] to find that out just as you need to

[15:10] charge something. Check the wipers, the

[15:12] washer jets, front and back, the

[15:15] interior lights, the sun visors. These

[15:19] things fail quite often and become

[15:20] broken. The light works as well. Take

[15:24] your time. Look at anything that moves,

[15:26] anything that has a function, and make

[15:28] sure it functions. Glove boxes don't

[15:30] always stay closed when you close them

[15:32] if someone's broken it. This one does.

[15:34] So, check that as well. really take your

[15:37] time and any problems you find, add it

[15:40] to the list. Now, it's time to test

[15:43] drive the car. If you're buying from a

[15:44] dealer, this is usually more

[15:46] straightforward because the dealer is

[15:48] prepared for this, but it's still your

[15:51] responsibility to make sure the car is

[15:53] legal for you to drive. You can't say to

[15:56] the police, "Ah, but the seller said it

[15:58] was fine." You're driving. You're

[16:00] responsible. When it comes to buying

[16:02] from a private seller, well, make sure

[16:05] the car has tax, make sure it has an

[16:07] MOT, and make sure you got insurance.

[16:09] You need to do this when you're buying

[16:10] from a dealer as well, but it should be

[16:11] more easy. If you're buying from a

[16:13] private seller, well, you're going to

[16:15] probably have to sort out your own

[16:17] insurance. And I'll leave a link in the

[16:20] description to confuse.com testdrive

[16:22] insurance. It is an affiliate link, so

[16:25] depending on what happens after you

[16:27] click that link, I may get a small

[16:29] commission, but it doesn't cost you

[16:30] anything. But it's important you make

[16:33] sure the car is legal to drive because

[16:36] it is your responsibility, not the

[16:39] sellers. You cannot take their word for

[16:41] it. For the test drive, automatic or

[16:44] manual, you want to go fast enough to

[16:45] make sure you test all of the forward

[16:47] gears to make sure they work. And also

[16:49] test reverse. For a manual, check the

[16:52] clutch. How does the bike point feel?

[16:55] Are the pedals comfortable to use? If

[16:57] you can't get comfortable using the car,

[16:59] consider a different car. Go to a car

[17:02] park. Steer the wheel all the way to the

[17:05] right. Move. Steer the wheel all the way

[17:07] to the left. Move. Are there any strange

[17:10] clicking sounds or any sounds at all? If

[17:12] there are, add it to the list. Go to a

[17:16] bumpy road. Are there any knocks or

[17:19] squeaks coming from the suspension?

[17:22] or do you just find the car too firm or

[17:26] too soft for your liking? If that's the

[17:28] case, well, you may want to consider a

[17:31] different car. Also, try and test the

[17:34] brakes. So, what I'm doing now, so I'm

[17:35] just pulling over to let this car pass

[17:38] to test the brakes. And to test the

[17:39] brakes, what you want to do is make sure

[17:40] no one's behind you and break fairly

[17:43] firmly. You shouldn't feel the steering

[17:46] pull to the left or right, but you've

[17:48] got to make sure it's safe before you do

[17:49] that. And ideally do it on a slightly

[17:52] faster road. So it's a 40 here. I can

[17:54] get do it on this little straight going

[17:56] a bit faster. Holding the wheel gently,

[17:58] braking firmly. Yeah, the car did not

[18:01] pull to the left or right. That's what

[18:04] you're looking for. Any problems at all.

[18:06] Again, add it to the list. So, you've

[18:10] looked around the car and you've got

[18:11] your list of problems. You're not

[18:13] relying on your memory. It's written

[18:15] down in front of you. This is going to

[18:18] help you make a good decision. And the

[18:20] decision you need to make is what

[18:23] problems are you willing to live with?

[18:25] What problems do you think the seller

[18:27] should sort? What problems do you think

[18:29] you should sort? And what problems do

[18:32] you think you should use to negotiate a

[18:35] lower price? Take into account the

[18:38] price, age, and mileage of the car. But

[18:42] what standard of car you're looking for

[18:44] is up to you. It's your opinion. Don't

[18:46] let the seller tell you, ah, for the

[18:48] age, price, and mileage of the car, it's

[18:50] okay for that to be broken or for that

[18:52] not to be working properly.

[18:55] It's up to you what you deem acceptable

[18:58] and what you're willing to pay for. If

[19:00] you agree with the seller, great. You

[19:02] can move on to the next step. If not,

[19:04] move on. Look for another car. Cars are

[19:07] expensive. Fixing them is expensive as

[19:10] well. So, in my opinion, it's well worth

[19:12] spending several days of your time

[19:14] finding the right car because in the

[19:18] long run, it will probably save you

[19:19] money. So, you've test-driven the car,

[19:22] you still want it, and you've come to an

[19:24] agreeable deal with the seller. There is

[19:26] one final check you must do, and that is

[19:29] a car history check. Link in the

[19:32] description to Carver Vertical. I'll put

[19:33] on screen what checks they are going to

[19:35] do. Car Vertical are not sponsoring this

[19:38] video, but hopefully that is an

[19:40] affiliate link, which means I'll get

[19:41] some commission if you do use their

[19:43] service. So, I'm not going to bore you

[19:45] with a 90 second ad about them. But for

[19:48] me, the most important thing you're

[19:50] trying to find out

[19:52] is

[19:54] does the car have outstanding finance?

[19:56] Also, mileage and whether or not it's

[19:59] been involved in the accident. That's

[20:00] handy as well. But the outstanding

[20:02] finance is the biggie for me because if

[20:04] the car has outstanding finance, that

[20:06] car technically still belongs to the

[20:09] bank, not the person selling it to you.

[20:12] And if the bank wants to repossess that

[20:15] car because the payments for the car

[20:17] have not been made, they don't care that

[20:20] you have handed over money to the

[20:22] seller. That's not their interest. The

[20:24] car is theirs. They want it back. So,

[20:26] you could lose your purchase price for

[20:29] the car and the car. It's not something

[20:33] you want to risk, which is why one of

[20:34] those checks is so important. I've used

[20:37] various car history checks in the past.

[20:40] The last vehicle I bought, I used Car

[20:41] Vertical simply because, well, they're

[20:43] everywhere. They they sponsor so many

[20:46] channels. It was the first one that came

[20:47] to my mind, but I was happy with how

[20:50] quick and easy they were to use, which

[20:51] is why I'm recommending them to you. Oh,

[20:54] and I usually leave the car history

[20:56] check until the very end of the buying

[20:57] process just before I hand over the

[20:59] money because I've got to pay for this

[21:01] history check and I don't want to pay

[21:03] for it to find out, oh, I'm not even

[21:04] interested in this car because it's got

[21:05] this wrong with it and that wrong with

[21:06] it and I've just wasted my money. But

[21:08] there is an exception. If the car is far

[21:11] away, then I may pay for the check

[21:14] before I leave because in that case, I

[21:16] think it's worth paying the money before

[21:17] I take that long journey. So, if you've

[21:20] done the deal, you've done your checks,

[21:22] you're happy to go ahead with the

[21:24] purchase, then it's time to hand over

[21:25] your money. I don't recommend using

[21:28] cash. I recommend doing it via a bank

[21:30] transfer or if they have a debit

[21:32] machine, use one of those because

[21:34] personally for me, I like to have some

[21:37] kind of record of where my money has

[21:38] gone to if I'm spending a lot of money.

[21:42] Then, you need to register the car in

[21:44] your name. These days, it's easy. You

[21:46] can do it online. I'll leave a link in

[21:48] the description. You'll need the Fe

[21:51] registered keeper document, the log book

[21:53] as it's known. The current owner or the

[21:55] dealer should have that. If they don't

[21:58] have it, don't buy it until they have

[22:01] it. That's my advice because it's just

[22:03] too risky. Once you've registered it in

[22:06] your name, then you need to tax it. You

[22:07] need to tax it straight away. Again, in

[22:09] the description will be a link to how

[22:11] you can tax your vehicle online. It's

[22:13] quick and easy. The only problem is,

[22:15] well, it costs money. Make sure you've

[22:17] got insurance. Obviously, make sure the

[22:20] car has a validote and then you should

[22:22] be ready to go. Kushi, when you're

[22:25] buying a new car, it's fairly simple.

[22:28] You know what condition the car is going

[22:29] to be in? It's well, new. When you're

[22:33] buying a used car, well, the condition

[22:35] is question mark. How many previous

[22:38] owners? What were those owners like?

[22:40] What did they do to the car? What's the

[22:41] mileage? What's the age? These things

[22:43] are going to play into the condition of

[22:45] the car. In Great Britain though, we

[22:47] seem to be obsessed with mileage.

[22:49] Mileage makes a big difference to the

[22:51] value of the car, which is how you can

[22:54] get a bargain because higher mileage

[22:56] cars are cheaper, yet they're not always

[23:00] worse. You could have an owner who's

[23:02] cherished their car, looked after it,

[23:04] done a lot of miles, but it's in

[23:05] brilliant condition. You could have an

[23:07] owner who's trashed the car and it's

[23:10] rubbish now. It's wrecked. That's a

[23:13] better word. wrecked after 10,000 miles.

[23:16] You don't know until you actually go and

[23:17] inspect the car and have a look at it.

[23:19] How many owners? That can matter as well

[23:21] because if it's had loads of owners,

[23:23] what's wrong with this car? Is this car

[23:24] hot potato? Is there a problem that no

[23:26] one can solve and they're passing it on

[23:28] from one person to another because they

[23:29] can't get to the bottom of it? Maybe.

[23:31] Not necessarily, but that would concern

[23:34] me. and age. For me, age is more

[23:37] important than mileage because, well,

[23:39] time is incredibly powerful and it

[23:41] degrades most things given enough time.

[23:45] And well, with an older car, time isn't

[23:49] exactly on its side. So, my advice is

[23:52] don't be searching for cars under a

[23:54] certain mileage because you would just

[23:56] be possibly missing out on the best

[23:58] deal. And I recently bought a car, come

[24:01] to think about it, and I looked at six

[24:04] cars, and the car I actually ended up

[24:06] buying was the one with the highest

[24:08] mileage,

[24:10] yet it was the one in the best

[24:12] condition. Well, that's the end of the

[24:14] video, but I have one more tip. If the

[24:17] car has locking wheel nuts, make sure

[24:20] the car has the key for the locking

[24:22] wheel nut. Because without this, well,

[24:24] you're not going to be able to get the

[24:25] wheels off when they need to come off,

[24:27] which means you're not going to be able

[24:28] to replace tires, brakes, suspension

[24:30] work, all kinds of jobs you're not going

[24:32] to be able to do without this. Meaning,

[24:34] well, you're going to have a problem. If

[24:37] you found the video helpful, please give

[24:38] it a thumbs up, subscribe to get my

[24:40] future videos, and until next one,

[24:43] cheerio.