How To Paint a Room Like a Pro (NO Tape Needed)

[00:00] Today I'm going to save you thousands by

[00:02] showing you how to paint a room all by

[00:04] yourself. Look at that. That's going to

[00:06] be sexy.

[00:07] Yo, I almost fell off my ladder.

[00:10] All you need is a handful of tools, one

[00:11] or two days, and oh yeah, no taping.

[00:14] This is for anybody updating their space

[00:16] or dealing with the landlord special

[00:18] like I am. You know what I'm talking

[00:19] about. The paint over the light switches

[00:21] and the plugs and really sloppy work. So

[00:23] we've got nail pops and wall damage and

[00:26] paint all over the ceiling. So no matter

[00:28] how bad your situation, just follow my

[00:30] process and you're going to get a clean

[00:31] professional finish. Let's get started.

[00:33] And this is everything you're going to

[00:34] need. Your favorite drill and a couple

[00:36] of bits. You'll need a knife. You'll

[00:38] need a five in one. Great for opening

[00:40] cans of paint. You'll need a 4-in knife,

[00:41] preferably brand new. I'm going to

[00:43] recommend this ergonomic handy pail. And

[00:45] then my favorite paint brush, 3 and

[00:46] 1/2-in angled sash. Grab yourself some

[00:49] canvas drop cloths, 4-in mini roller,

[00:52] and a tray with a liner. And you're

[00:53] going to want a caulking gun. And for

[00:55] priming all of your drywall repair, I

[00:57] recommend Kilz oil-based stain blocker.

[00:59] You're going to want to get your Radius

[01:00] 360 sanding block and a Wooster pole.

[01:03] And for painting your walls, grab the

[01:05] Sherlock stick with the easy to connect

[01:08] Wooster cage and just a simple 1/2-in

[01:11] nap roller. Let's get to work. And what

[01:13] I like to start with is a thing that

[01:14] takes the longest to dry. And that, of

[01:17] course, is wall damage and nail pops.

[01:19] Here's an example of a nail pop that has

[01:21] a heartbeat. See that flex? That's a

[01:22] screw that went past the paper. And the

[01:25] way we fix it,

[01:27] 1-in

[01:28] blow.

[01:32] We're going to use Drydex. Now the

[01:33] secret to this product is two things.

[01:35] For a painter, it's great because it

[01:36] goes white when it's dry. But it does

[01:38] shrink a little bit while it's drying.

[01:39] So you don't want to put it on too tight

[01:41] because after that dries, you'll have

[01:43] one, two, three dents in the wall. So

[01:45] put it on liberally like that. When we

[01:47] sand it back, we can sand it smooth. So

[01:49] we can do all of the patching and then

[01:51] we can get all the rest of the prep work

[01:52] done while this is drying. And that

[01:54] helps save give a lot of time. These

[01:56] yellow things, they're a drywall plug.

[01:58] You take your 5-in-1, hit the edge,

[02:01] just shear it right off.

[02:03] >> [snorts]

[02:03] >> Then you can take the other end of your

[02:04] tool,

[02:06] and just create a bit of a ball, and

[02:07] push that into the wall.

[02:09] Now, you're not making contact, but the

[02:11] hole is filled with the plug, and it

[02:13] greatly reduces the amount of drying

[02:15] time, and almost eliminates the

[02:17] shrinkage in the hole. Anything that can

[02:19] be removed should be removed. I have

[02:22] seen lots of people in my career

[02:24] remove the doors and leave the track.

[02:27] What ends up happening is

[02:29] is you get all this wall damage that

[02:30] never gets painted properly, or you get

[02:32] somebody getting paint all over your

[02:34] track. Going to fix the ugly.

[02:37] Now, let's go take care of the cold air

[02:38] return grill. Cuz it's been painted in a

[02:40] few times, what I'm trying to do is just

[02:43] cut the paint that's bonded together

[02:44] with the metal. Here we go.

[02:47] So, instead of trying to clean this up,

[02:48] I'm just going to buy a replacement.

[02:51] That was the original paint color. I'm

[02:52] not going through all the trouble of all

[02:55] this work

[02:56] just at the very end to go put a

[02:57] finished grill back on and have a little

[03:00] line showing. Now that I've got all my

[03:02] wall patches drying, I can prime and

[03:05] prep all of my ceiling areas. This is a

[03:07] um

[03:08] primer sealer. It helps to cover up all

[03:10] these ugly mistakes

[03:12] really conveniently in just one coat. If

[03:14] somebody's got a really dark color

[03:16] paint,

[03:17] you might need to do two passes around

[03:18] the room. So, we're going to take our

[03:19] quarter of ceiling paint, and we're

[03:21] going to put some of it in the handy

[03:23] pail with a liner, cuz we're going to be

[03:25] brushing some and rolling some.

[03:28] We're

[03:29] pushing the brush into the paint. It's

[03:31] about 1-in thick, and we're painting

[03:33] from inside the brush. There's not a

[03:35] bunch of slop on the outside, okay? That

[03:37] is the technique, which is why you don't

[03:39] need tape.

[03:40] Now, on the ceiling, actually spray the

[03:43] ceiling, and then scrape this, and then

[03:45] give it a light sand and paint it. And

[03:47] there's actually a line here where it

[03:49] separates one to the next. And all I'm

[03:51] going to do is run that brush right

[03:53] across that line.

[03:55] Now, this is incredibly forgiving, okay?

[03:58] So, if you have

[04:01] very little experience, doing the edge

[04:03] up against the stipple is a great way to

[04:05] start. You'll notice it's a firm brush.

[04:08] I don't have to get a whole lot of this

[04:09] going on, okay?

[04:11] Just got to stand it and put a bit of a

[04:13] bend.

[04:15] Gives you a lot of control. Less is more

[04:17] here. We're just trying to make sure we

[04:20] don't have two colors of paint on the

[04:21] smooth edge so that it's obvious.

[04:23] We're going to prep the roller here.

[04:24] It's microfiber. The last thing we want

[04:26] here is have so much paint in the roller

[04:28] that when we go to touch the ceiling

[04:30] there's a big blob of paint there. So,

[04:31] you really use a little bit of pressure.

[04:34] Make sure the paint's inside the roller.

[04:37] And then that is absolutely perfect. No

[04:39] dripping. And then all we're going to do

[04:41] is nice and gentle like

[04:44] so we don't get drips.

[04:46] Okay? You're going to need to

[04:48] do a little bit of practice know how

[04:49] much pressure to use.

[04:51] Get right into that corner.

[04:53] And that's it.

[04:54] Now, that's painted.

[04:56] And now we have a perfect ceiling line

[04:59] to paint up against.

[05:01] And between the kills and the roller,

[05:04] this is going to be great coverage and

[05:06] that other color is going to be gone

[05:07] forever. So, 4-in mini roller.

[05:10] Anytime you've got a

[05:12] smooth edge ceiling, works perfectly. I

[05:14] know that everybody has the same stuff

[05:16] everywhere. If you have

[05:18] uh

[05:19] just just flat

[05:21] or if you have

[05:23] uh like a knockdown texture or an orange

[05:25] peel

[05:26] or full stipple,

[05:27] the only other solution that you have is

[05:29] to paint the entire ceiling.

[05:31] But because this is a smooth edge, we

[05:32] get to completely cheat. I don't want to

[05:34] add any more paint to the ceiling. I

[05:36] don't want to have to

[05:38] paint the entire ceiling just to clean

[05:40] up a little bit of an edge. So, because

[05:41] in this situation I get to do this, I

[05:44] save a ton of time. Now, you might be

[05:45] able to get away with not using a brush

[05:47] at all to cut that line,

[05:49] but what a great opportunity to practice

[05:52] and work on your brush a little bit. One

[05:53] of the reasons I tell people they don't

[05:55] need tape cuz the paint will peel off of

[05:57] the wall or the ceiling

[05:59] if it hasn't finished the curing

[06:01] process, which takes about a month. Now,

[06:03] it's time to teach you how to use a

[06:04] paintbrush like a pro. We're not working

[06:06] out of the can, we're working from our

[06:07] little container here. We're looking for

[06:10] just about an inch, inch and a half of

[06:12] paint. When you have a new brush, you

[06:13] have to learn how it reacts. There's a

[06:15] lot of different bristles, different

[06:17] strengths. So, we're going to fill it up

[06:19] and then we're going to clean it off.

[06:20] We're going to start with it

[06:22] almost empty and that's the best way to

[06:24] practice.

[06:25] And the way we do it is like when you're

[06:27] learning how to paint with a painting

[06:28] crew for the first time,

[06:30] they shove you in the closet and if they

[06:32] have to, they can do touch-up work. And

[06:34] if you're sloppy and you put on too much

[06:36] paint, it's okay because there's no

[06:38] direct light in a closet in almost every

[06:40] situation.

[06:41] So, it's the safest place to learn how

[06:43] to do this. You can practice your skill

[06:45] set so that you've got the ability to do

[06:47] really nice lines around your ceiling

[06:49] later in the afternoon. This is an

[06:51] angled sash. This is the heel, that's

[06:54] the tip. I'm right-handed, so I'll start

[06:55] on the right-hand side, but I'm going to

[06:57] paint the left side and we're going to

[06:58] pretend that's the ceiling and that's is

[07:00] the wall. So, you put the heel and then

[07:03] you push the tip

[07:04] into the corner and then you

[07:07] going to pull

[07:09] setting that brush right in that crease.

[07:12] And if you find yourself with too much

[07:13] paint, stop and pull off and come again.

[07:17] All right, and practice doing a cut

[07:19] line.

[07:20] If that was a ceiling and that's a wall,

[07:22] that's actually a pretty nice job.

[07:24] Yay for me, I still remember how to

[07:25] paint. It's been a while.

[07:27] >> [laughter]

[07:27] >> And we want to have a good 3 to 4-in

[07:30] line.

[07:31] Now, you're not relying on your own

[07:32] ability to draw that line with the

[07:34] brush. What you're really doing is

[07:36] taking a brush that doesn't have paint

[07:37] on the outside,

[07:38] setting that bristle into that corner

[07:41] and then just letting the bristle

[07:43] sit in that corner and you move forward

[07:44] with pressure. That's all it is.

[07:47] We're going to practice different

[07:48] corners, different cut lines.

[07:51] Always brush through your corners.

[07:53] All right? You want to keep things nice

[07:55] and dry.

[07:56] It's okay to see the wall behind coming

[07:58] through. That's why we use two coats.

[08:00] Now, left side. Heel and then tip.

[08:04] That works really good when there's not

[08:06] a lot of paint in the brush. There's too

[08:07] much paint, you're going to get it

[08:08] slopping around everywhere.

[08:10] There we go. Get it in that crease and

[08:12] then just run it.

[08:14] You get the paint out first, this is

[08:16] another technique. You can come back a

[08:17] little drier

[08:18] and then you're just pushing the extra

[08:20] paint up into that crease.

[08:23] That's another great way to get it done.

[08:25] So, when you push the tip, you lift the

[08:26] heel

[08:27] and it gives you more of a triangle,

[08:29] more of a sharp tip. Upside down,

[08:31] heel, triangle in the corner.

[08:34] We're in a closet, so we're going to

[08:35] treat the baseboard like it's a ceiling

[08:37] line now. When you're painting with a

[08:38] dark color,

[08:39] it's a lot easier to come back and do

[08:41] that one coat of baseboard at the very

[08:43] end

[08:44] if you haven't painted all over your

[08:45] trim. This isn't speed, so I'm going to

[08:47] be a little bit more careful here. If

[08:49] anything doesn't have enough paint or it

[08:52] needs a little bit of rework or

[08:53] doctoring up, save it for the second

[08:55] coat. As a matter of fact, when you're

[08:57] painting your ceiling line for the first

[08:59] time, especially with a dark color, I

[09:01] recommend that you leave a little bit of

[09:03] a gap on purpose. I'm going to go about

[09:06] an eighth to a 16th below that line

[09:09] on purpose.

[09:11] And then on the second coat I would come

[09:12] back.

[09:13] Push right into that corner.

[09:16] And then finish drawing that line right

[09:18] in that crease.

[09:20] That's a great technique, especially if

[09:22] you're new to this.

[09:24] Give yourself a little mercy at 8 ft in

[09:26] the air.

[09:27] All right?

[09:28] You aren't going to be able to tell if

[09:30] that

[09:30] 16th or 32nd of an inch is one coat or

[09:33] two coats.

[09:34] Just saying.

[09:35] Because we're dealing with acrylic

[09:36] paint, you can see the paint is starting

[09:38] to work its way all the way up the

[09:39] bristles. Every time I I put a pressure

[09:41] on that brush and I push,

[09:43] the paint goes in two directions, up

[09:45] into the bristles and then out to the

[09:46] wall. Okay? So, you've only got about an

[09:49] hour while you're working before you

[09:51] have to stop and go wash your brush and

[09:53] start over again.

[09:54] So, we're going to finish off this

[09:55] closet and then go take care of the

[09:56] brush.

[09:57] Once that acrylic hardens up, ladies,

[09:59] it's like having your nails done. Now,

[10:01] we have texture

[10:03] that hasn't been cleaned right and this

[10:05] is how we do it.

[10:07] We're not just drawing a line cuz that's

[10:09] what happens.

[10:10] You got a really nasty look, okay? So,

[10:15] instead [snorts] of drawing a line,

[10:17] I want you to do something like this.

[10:19] You're going to pull and push. Pull and

[10:21] push.

[10:23] Like this into that ceiling. That's a

[10:25] little bit more dramatic than I want you

[10:26] to do, but you get the idea.

[10:28] So, it's just a constant

[10:30] jiggle wiggle. And what happens is

[10:32] you'll paint the back side of every one

[10:33] of those bumps

[10:34] as well as the front side.

[10:37] And over the course of that whole

[10:38] ceiling line,

[10:40] it'll look a lot more consistent. Now,

[10:42] it looks like the texture's coming into

[10:43] the wall instead of the other way

[10:44] around.

[10:47] As a homeowner,

[10:49] you will pay somewhere between

[10:52] $500 and $1,000 for good quality paint

[10:54] job

[10:56] in a big room in your house if it's

[10:57] involving

[10:58] repairs and ceilings and things like

[11:00] that.

[11:02] Now, the paint only costs you about 150

[11:04] bucks.

[11:06] The rest of that is labor.

[11:08] Or, you can just buy the paint

[11:11] and save almost a thousand dollars a

[11:12] room. How about you decide?

[11:14] But, that's pretty darn simple, ain't

[11:16] it?

[11:17] First of all, we're going to wash

[11:18] everything going in and away from your

[11:19] bone, okay? Hot, but not too hot. And

[11:22] not cold. Cold water makes your acrylic

[11:24] clump up right away. And we're just

[11:25] going to work the surface with your

[11:27] thumb. Try to get as much of that paint

[11:29] out as you can. Pull Pull bristles

[11:30] apart. Get some water into the middle.

[11:32] So, it's already looking pretty clean,

[11:34] but like that's really dirty water

[11:36] coming out. Okay? What we're going to do

[11:38] now is we're going to just take some

[11:39] regular dish soap, and we're just going

[11:40] to suds it up and foam it up and try to

[11:43] keep all that soap stuck inside the

[11:44] bristles. And then we're going to do the

[11:46] same thing with the soap. We're going to

[11:47] just massage this all out. Always

[11:49] running the water away from the bone so

[11:51] that we don't push any of this up into

[11:52] it. Now, we're going to use force, and

[11:54] we're going to go the exact opposite

[11:56] direction, like as if we're loading the

[11:57] brush with paint. Turn up the water just

[11:59] a bit,

[12:00] and we're going to pound it in there.

[12:02] All right?

[12:03] We want to force that water right up to

[12:05] the top, right inside that bone. Now

[12:06] that we've cleaned it out the best we

[12:07] can, and we're forcing whatever's

[12:09] [music] left stuck inside there out.

[12:11] When you push it on the side really

[12:13] tight,

[12:14] there should be no dirt coming into that

[12:15] water. Look at that. That's drinkable,

[12:17] ladies and gentlemen. Now, we're just

[12:19] going to squeeze it, wring it out.

[12:21] Now, we're going to just put it between

[12:22] our hands, and we're going to spin

[12:23] cycle.

[12:28] Like a dog coming in out of the rain, we

[12:30] have a perfectly brand new brush again.

[12:32] And it's ready to paint. You don't have

[12:33] to let it dry or anything, either. That

[12:35] is good to go right there. Now that you

[12:37] know how to use a brush, let's go

[12:38] through the steps in how to paint your

[12:39] room in proper order so that you can be

[12:41] absolutely efficient and get the rest of

[12:43] this work done in just a few hours. Step

[12:45] one, caulking. If you have any gaps

[12:48] where your trim meets the wall or where

[12:50] a wall meets a wall. Remember, we're in

[12:52] a four-season climate. We get massive

[12:54] expansion and contraction in the

[12:55] corners. And the solution is to use a

[12:58] 60-year caulking, not the cheap

[13:00] painter's caulking, okay? Because it

[13:03] cracks. There's no sense just putting a

[13:05] little bead. We're not looking for a

[13:07] sharp corner here because it'll happen

[13:09] again next year. So, what I'm doing is

[13:11] I'm putting enough of this product on

[13:12] here that it should protect that crack

[13:16] from realizing itself again next year.

[13:18] One other thing to consider when you're

[13:20] doing caulking,

[13:21] take a look at your baseboards. A lot of

[13:23] builders will do this. They'll come

[13:24] along, they'll do sloppy carpentry, and

[13:27] they're relying on the complexity of

[13:28] this profile to make it really easy to

[13:31] cover their mistakes for not having a

[13:33] nice tight fit. Now, this caulking is

[13:35] not a quick try. It takes about an hour,

[13:37] which is why we want to get it done now.

[13:39] So, everything else that we do for the

[13:40] next few steps allows this to dry fully

[13:43] before the roller finds that wall. I'm

[13:46] going to use the 3M sanding sponge now.

[13:48] It's an angled sponge, so it's great for

[13:50] details in the corner and they've

[13:52] included this cute little design on the

[13:54] back for dust control. So, the idea is

[13:55] is as you sand, the dust isn't being

[13:57] thrown up in your face. It can actually

[13:59] fall to the ground. You should not feel

[14:01] any

[14:02] change in depth. If you do, it's a bump.

[14:04] It'll show up with a dark paint. This is

[14:06] not like sanding fresh drywall mud. What

[14:09] we're doing when we're sanding drywall

[14:10] mud is we've applied thin layers of mud

[14:13] and we're just feathering the mud into

[14:15] the paper.

[14:16] This is all about

[14:19] can you feel any ridges?

[14:22] Adding an acrylic paint

[14:24] is going to multiply it visually by

[14:27] about 20 times. Once we've got all of

[14:29] our patches sanded, we're pulling out

[14:31] our kills. Keep a distance or it'll blob

[14:34] up on you. This product takes about 10

[14:36] or 15 minutes to dry. There's enough

[14:37] process left that it'll guaranteed be

[14:39] dry by the time you get over with the

[14:41] roller. Next step, we're going to hit

[14:42] all of the casings. I'm talking about

[14:44] this abomination. That's just

[14:46] ridiculous. Make sure that it's clean.

[14:48] This is my trim paint. Looks pretty

[14:50] white, but doesn't look as white as the

[14:52] original trim. I'm going to put the heel

[14:54] of the brush on the wall and paint the

[14:56] wall and the trim at the same time. This

[14:57] will help us when we come back to get a

[14:59] really nice line. And my goal here is to

[15:01] try to paint the side of this trim and

[15:04] not have to paint the face. I'm going to

[15:06] do the same thing, hit all the windows.

[15:07] Let's say somebody did a decent job

[15:09] painting the edge.

[15:12] You hitting it again is always a good

[15:14] thing. This edge isn't all that

[15:16] terrible. So, that's really clean. Now,

[15:18] watch.

[15:19] I'm going to pretend I'm painting the

[15:20] next color. I'll try to do a perfect cut

[15:22] in for the window and then we'll see if

[15:24] any green is still showing. Now, every

[15:27] one of those little green spots is going

[15:28] to show up when you're done your paint

[15:29] job. So, better to have a preemptive

[15:32] strike, come back with the brush,

[15:34] paint it all in,

[15:36] and then not have to worry about it. Now

[15:38] you know you got a clean edge. We have

[15:39] the same thing with the trim here and

[15:41] the trim here. What I'm going to do is

[15:43] I'm just going to overfill this whole

[15:45] area to make sure that all that cutting

[15:48] work is going to have a fresh start.

[15:50] Last step of preparation

[15:52] is the sanding. And we're using a 220

[15:54] sand grits. Two things we're doing here.

[15:56] We are sanding off any dirt that got

[15:59] trapped in the last paint job and we're

[16:01] collecting all of the cobwebs that have

[16:03] collected on your wall. Now this is not

[16:05] something that you

[16:06] need to do with a huge amount of

[16:08] precision and we're just looking to

[16:10] cover one pass over the whole surface so

[16:14] that our finished look

[16:16] is dynamic. Now we're coming into the

[16:18] corner

[16:19] where we have fresh caulking. It's still

[16:21] dense,

[16:22] which means it's dry on the surface, but

[16:24] we can't afford any impact with the

[16:25] sanding block.

[16:27] So we're going to leave a couple of

[16:28] inches there.

[16:29] Now we've made it all the way back to

[16:30] the closet.

[16:32] Here we are, [snorts] guys. Day two.

[16:33] That means this paint

[16:35] was shaken yesterday. We need to give it

[16:38] a quick stir top to bottom. All right.

[16:41] First thing I'm going to do is I'm going

[16:43] to finish off in the closet all the

[16:44] details that we didn't get to yesterday.

[16:46] Did the patch with the Kilz and this

[16:49] triangle board here is actually MDF and

[16:52] it was painted as well. At this point

[16:54] you've practiced enough that you should

[16:56] be a little comfortable with the brush.

[16:58] You also want to have the brush seasoned

[16:59] with paint, but not too much paint. You

[17:01] should see lots of bristles. So we're

[17:03] going to hit around the plugs. Never

[17:05] rely on your roller to do this. Cutting

[17:07] in is giving you room to roll up to

[17:10] something that's already painted so you

[17:12] can avoid getting too close and getting

[17:14] your paint on your actual plugs and

[17:15] switches. Once you're comfortable,

[17:16] proper way to paint is to run right down

[17:19] both.

[17:20] Just do a few feet.

[17:22] And then just brush it out about 1 and

[17:24] 1/2 to 2 in. If we get paint on the

[17:27] trim, then we're definitely going to

[17:29] have to do two coats. Whoops.

[17:32] Now we'll have an example

[17:34] later on in the video of how much work

[17:37] it takes to actually get that covered.

[17:38] It's time to tackle the ceiling.

[17:41] >> [laughter]

[17:42] [gasps]

[17:42] >> So, let's get that done. I don't want

[17:44] you to be nervous at this point.

[17:46] Remember, heal the tip. We're going to

[17:47] come short of that ceiling on purpose.

[17:50] Get the paint out of the brush, and now

[17:52] we can come back,

[17:54] paint down a little bit, and that should

[17:56] be about 4 in, okay? Now, when your

[17:58] roller comes up, your roller is going to

[18:00] roll into this about this close,

[18:03] and then roll away. That way, your

[18:05] roller is never getting anywhere near

[18:07] the ceiling. You do not want to ever

[18:09] make contact with the ceiling cuz that

[18:10] puts you back to step one. All right, so

[18:12] if you're feeling brave and you want to

[18:13] tackle this, let's do this together.

[18:15] Heal on the wall below the ceiling, and

[18:17] work your way up to it as you're pulling

[18:19] along.

[18:20] As soon as your bristle hits that

[18:21] corner,

[18:23] just run your brush along

[18:27] sitting in that corner and that edge.

[18:30] It's all there is to it.

[18:32] I mean, after you get good at this,

[18:33] you'll never use tape again. If I was to

[18:35] try and tape

[18:37] the ceiling

[18:38] right now, you're taping over fresh

[18:40] paint and primer,

[18:42] and it's going to peel.

[18:45] And then you're going to be back to

[18:45] repairing the ceiling,

[18:48] spackling, letting it dry, sanding it

[18:50] off, priming it, painting it again.

[18:53] Right? You can't afford that. It's just

[18:55] no. That's just a no scenario.

[18:58] This is a great line. You're going to be

[19:00] really happy with that. We're standing

[19:01] up here 6 in away, and the camera

[19:04] saying "Hey

[19:05] Jeff still knows how to paint." And you

[19:07] can, too. We're going to cut the entire

[19:09] room before we pull out the roller

[19:11] because depending on the speed that you

[19:12] paint, if you have the cut dish and the

[19:16] rolling tray at the same time filled

[19:17] with paint, it starts to dry immediately

[19:19] after you pour it out. The entire room

[19:21] cut and roll

[19:23] probably will you take about 2 hours,

[19:24] guys. Okay, just to factor that in.

[19:27] If you're working by yourself, and if

[19:29] you are working with a helper, you can

[19:30] cut that time in half. My paint line is

[19:32] just about at the brass. It's a perfect

[19:34] time to wash. This is my fifth time

[19:37] washing this brush on this project.

[19:39] >> [laughter]

[19:40] >> The reason I need this to be clean is

[19:41] because of this. I have a cut line here

[19:44] and a cut line here, and you need your

[19:46] brush to be the same size as the place

[19:49] you're cutting. This brush is huge

[19:51] relative to this situation, and there's

[19:52] no way for me to maintain control and

[19:54] cut both lines at the same time unless I

[19:56] do this.

[19:57] Make [sighs] my 3-in brush a 1-in brush.

[20:01] Hold it like a gun. We'll load it,

[20:04] and I can cut one side,

[20:06] and I can cut the other side. You don't

[20:09] need to go out and buy an artist brush

[20:10] set

[20:11] if you use this technique. Remember,

[20:13] this isn't about speed, it's about

[20:15] precision. And if I take 10 minutes on

[20:17] this little area and make it absolutely

[20:19] perfect, then that's okay with me.

[20:22] Would this go faster with a smaller

[20:23] brush? Yeah. Do you always have that

[20:25] brush on you?

[20:27] We're at that point in the project we're

[20:28] going to roll. My tray has liners, and

[20:30] it has this tray arm. It's not available

[20:32] everywhere,

[20:33] so I'll throw a link in the video

[20:34] description, and if you can

[20:36] get it, you can get it. If you can't,

[20:38] we'll have to see what we can do about

[20:39] that another time.

[20:40] Uh this is my Sherlock Wooster stick,

[20:43] and I'm using the Wooster handle. The

[20:46] handle has the threading inside for the

[20:48] standard thread size for any extension

[20:50] pole, but it also has this pin lock on

[20:53] it. And the pin lock works like this.

[20:56] So, it can't come off, and it can't

[20:58] twist.

[20:59] Traditional extension poles are just

[21:01] threaded.

[21:03] As you're rolling, you change your

[21:05] direction, this starts to unravel.

[21:08] And then, as you're rolling, it's all

[21:11] over the wall like this, okay? Right out

[21:12] of control. And you're banging into

[21:14] things, it's a complete mess. With this

[21:16] system, everything is locked.

[21:17] I can run my roller within a eighth of

[21:19] an inch up and down that wall. Perfect

[21:21] control. Never scratching the paint on

[21:24] the surface next to it. It also allows

[21:26] you to extend and collapse, depending on

[21:28] the space you're working in.

[21:29] Okay?

[21:30] And allows you to keep your hands below

[21:31] your heart while you're painting.

[21:33] Okay, this is exhausting. And you'll put

[21:36] way too much paint on the wall. You get

[21:37] yourself back off the wall, keep your

[21:39] hands low,

[21:41] and you can paint with ease from top to

[21:43] bottom.

[21:44] I'm going to pour the contents over the

[21:46] edge, but not right to the roller. I

[21:48] don't want to put all of the paint in

[21:49] there, because I don't want to let that

[21:50] sit there and skim over.

[21:52] I'll leave my brush in the paint. Now,

[21:54] it is time to roll the wall. And the way

[21:56] we do that is we roll into the paint, we

[21:58] lift it up.

[21:59] We do not sink it to the bottom. We

[22:01] don't want to fill all this up with

[22:02] paint okay?

[22:04] Nice and easy.

[22:06] Just make contact, lift it back.

[22:09] Roll this in 15 or 20 times. Push the

[22:11] paint right to the middle of the roller.

[22:13] This is what we call priming the roller.

[22:16] I'm using a 13-mil roller sleeve. It's

[22:18] only half an inch, and it's for smooth

[22:20] to semi-smooth surfaces. So, make sure

[22:22] you buy the right roller for the right

[22:23] kind of surface. Smooth is for doors,

[22:25] semi-smooth is for walls. All right?

[22:27] When you roll, you always pick one

[22:29] direction. Rollers leave texture on the

[22:32] wall. No different than getting a grass

[22:34] cut at a professional golf course, or

[22:36] vacuuming a high-pile carpet. As you

[22:38] roll,

[22:39] the bristles are pulling off the paint.

[22:42] And when you go the other direction,

[22:43] they're pulling off paint in a different

[22:44] direction.

[22:45] Okay? And so, you get a different

[22:47] reflection. And you'll actually

[22:49] mess up the look on your wall

[22:52] if you go in more than one direction.

[22:53] And we're really trying to dry the

[22:55] surface of that roller out.

[22:58] Get right into the corner.

[23:00] But, we're not trying to push it so hard

[23:02] that we're like squeezing the paint out,

[23:04] okay?

[23:05] You can see we're just kind of painting

[23:07] and letting gravity do its thing. We're

[23:09] going back to the beginning at our

[23:10] driest point, picking up the extra paint

[23:13] that was put on from the very beginning,

[23:15] okay?

[23:16] That's it, nice and simple. Now that

[23:17] it's seasoned, we'll call it, it moves a

[23:19] lot faster. Don't start your the fresh

[23:21] roller in a top corner,

[23:23] okay? Start in the middle of the wall,

[23:25] roll it down, roll back up to the

[23:27] starting position. There's a texture

[23:28] here, looks like a fast running river.

[23:30] There's a lot of paint on that wall, and

[23:32] we're going to pick that up in a minute,

[23:33] but we're going to back into the old

[23:35] line.

[23:37] We're going to come forward now. We've

[23:39] dried off a little bit.

[23:41] Now we're picking up a little bit more.

[23:42] We're going to spread that out.

[23:45] We're going to come back through that

[23:46] and pick it up again.

[23:49] See how this works?

[23:51] We lay it down thick, we dry out the

[23:53] roller, we come back through the heavy

[23:54] paint, we pick up more paint.

[23:58] And to get into that corner, we simply

[23:59] spin it around

[24:01] and get that roller within that 1/4 in

[24:03] line. That's a nice healthy line, 1/4 in

[24:05] to 1/2 in. Now,

[24:07] when I get up here,

[24:10] cuz it's a different surface, I could

[24:11] cheat, I could go left or right, but I

[24:13] don't need to. I just go like this,

[24:15] get all that extra paint off, and then

[24:17] I'm just going to go back through. And

[24:19] as I'm leaving, rolling paint off,

[24:22] I'm picking it up from that wet line

[24:25] at about the same rate.

[24:27] Makes this very consistent. And you can

[24:29] get to a place where you can feel the

[24:31] pulling away. It's almost like a

[24:33] texture, like a magnet.

[24:36] And you can tell when your roller is wet

[24:38] and when it's dry.

[24:40] Always have from this rod facing the

[24:41] direction that you're painting,

[24:43] so that you're pushing the paint here

[24:45] and you're picking it up here.

[24:47] Gets rid of all the lines on the wall.

[24:48] The same reason we're starting in the

[24:50] closet for the roll as with the brush,

[24:52] this is a great place to practice, to

[24:55] get used to the paint that you've

[24:56] bought,

[24:57] how it reacts with the roller, how it

[24:59] reacts with the wall surface,

[25:01] so that when you get out into the main

[25:02] part of the room, you've got a feel

[25:05] for the relationship between the paint,

[25:08] the roller, your pressure, all these

[25:10] things. Our goal now is to finish off

[25:12] the rest of this room. Okay, guys, it's

[25:14] second coat time and we are going to go

[25:17] open a brand new can of paint today. We

[25:19] do not want to run the risk of starting

[25:21] some of the work with the brush with the

[25:23] old paint that had that separation

[25:25] issue.

[25:26] So, this one's freshly shook. We're

[25:28] going to go ahead now and

[25:31] do that 4-in mini roller work. We got

[25:33] two spots to do little touch-ups. This

[25:35] is a little bit sloppier.

[25:37] So, when you get over to the area where

[25:39] you want to roll, you're going to be

[25:41] sliding paint on the wall.

[25:43] So, you just want to get it applied

[25:45] and if it's too greasy and it's just

[25:47] sliding around instead of rolling, ease

[25:49] off on the pressure and that should

[25:50] generally work. If it doesn't,

[25:54] because it's not seasoned, just roll

[25:55] more of the wall out and get that roller

[25:57] a little drier, okay? Mini rollers can

[25:59] be a little bit frustrating if you have

[26:01] too much paint on them. We're doing this

[26:03] first coat just before we get started

[26:06] on the rest of this area with the second

[26:08] coat, knowing that this is going to dry

[26:10] in about 25 to 30 minutes, so it's not

[26:13] going to slow me down at all and in that

[26:15] way

[26:16] my mini roller has the same paint for

[26:19] the second coat as the rest of the room

[26:21] to avoid any

[26:23] flashing or glassy areas.

[26:25] When you're painting your finish coat,

[26:27] there's a rule to get what we call the

[26:29] wet edge.

[26:31] Let me just show you. We have a

[26:32] difference in in glare here and that's

[26:34] because brushing and rolling leaves

[26:36] different amounts of paint on the wall.

[26:37] Brushing it generally leaves more.

[26:39] But what we want to make sure is that we

[26:41] don't have

[26:42] brush lines and then roller lines that

[26:45] dry as such. We want the texture to be

[26:48] the same.

[26:49] So, what we want to do is we want to

[26:50] sand it all

[26:52] just to make sure we don't have any dirt

[26:54] or grit on the wall,

[26:56] but we want to then paint the entire

[26:58] surface

[27:00] cut and roll before

[27:02] the cut work dries on the second coat.

[27:05] Now, this is relatively fresh paint, so

[27:07] you're going to see it leaves a bit of a

[27:08] scuff and that's normal. Don't be worked

[27:11] up over that. It's okay to use a little

[27:13] bit of pressure and you'll see that

[27:14] little white dot there.

[27:15] That was a chunk of dirt that was stuck

[27:17] in the paint.

[27:19] I'm going to prep few surfaces

[27:22] and then I'm going to leave my sanding

[27:24] pole right there. And that's going to

[27:26] mark what's done and what isn't. Now, my

[27:28] goal here is to cut and roll each

[27:30] surface one at a time so that the brush

[27:33] marks don't dry before the roller marks

[27:35] hit it because if the brush mark is dry

[27:37] and the roller comes up to it

[27:39] then this stays looking like a brush.

[27:41] But if it's wet and I roll into it, then

[27:43] they melt together, okay? I'm also

[27:46] starting with a brand new roller today.

[27:48] I don't want yesterday's paint mixing in

[27:50] with today's paint.

[27:52] I know that might sound a little

[27:53] paranoid, but you got to buy the two

[27:55] gallons anyway, so any little anomaly

[27:58] can really affect something when you

[28:00] have acrylic in your paint even with low

[28:02] sheen. This is an old brush and I use

[28:05] this to clean my baseboards. We don't

[28:06] want to pick up the dust and then set it

[28:09] right back down

[28:10] into the wall again. This is second

[28:13] coat. Uh we still don't need everything

[28:15] perfect in the inside corners. We have

[28:17] artist brushes. We can come back and do

[28:19] little touch-ups later on. It's not

[28:20] going to affect the overall quality of

[28:22] the finish if you cut short of the

[28:24] ceiling. This is your chance to fix any

[28:27] of those mistakes. The second coat, we

[28:29] are not doing both sides of the corner.

[28:30] We're just focusing on one corner and

[28:32] because I've got 15 minutes, I'm

[28:34] comfortable doing this wall as well. If

[28:36] you're happy with the cut line

[28:38] don't try to duplicate it. In the same

[28:40] way, if you go short on the first one,

[28:42] you want to finish the cut on the

[28:43] second.

[28:44] If your first cut is nice

[28:46] come [snorts] up to a 16th of an inch of

[28:48] that line.

[28:49] You don't need a second coat of paint

[28:50] right at the cut line. I'm seizing this

[28:52] roller.

[28:54] And again, we're going to go use the

[28:56] power of this rig that cuz it doesn't

[28:58] twist.

[28:59] Get right nice and close to that corner.

[29:02] And we're going to roll that brush line

[29:03] into texture of the roller.

[29:07] Second coat, we're going to get closer

[29:08] to the top and closer to the bottom.

[29:10] Just don't touch that ceiling. Take your

[29:13] time. And one other thing we're going to

[29:15] do we haven't shown you yet

[29:18] is we're going to texture the wall by

[29:20] finishing rolling down

[29:22] on the whole surface.

[29:24] So instead of back rolling, which is

[29:26] just

[29:27] the process of rolling back and forth on

[29:29] the wall,

[29:30] we're going to directional roll, okay?

[29:32] And this will eliminate

[29:34] that just vacuumed the carpet look,

[29:36] okay? Usually the second coat

[29:39] uses about 80% as much paint as the

[29:41] first coat. We're just trying to make

[29:42] sure we're getting enough color and

[29:44] content and solids on the wall to finish

[29:47] the job.

[29:48] Now, if you're not as concerned about

[29:51] getting rid of those lines from the

[29:53] brush, you don't need to get up near the

[29:55] ceiling okay?

[29:56] But if you're like me,

[29:58] you're going to have a little OCD about

[29:59] these things. You're going to come back

[30:01] and look at it afterwards and go, "Ah, I

[30:02] really wish

[30:04] I just would have textured properly.

[30:07] I would have rolled up into my brush

[30:08] lines cuz you can tell.

[30:10] Especially with dark colors, guys.

[30:13] Now I've got a couple of surfaces in.

[30:15] I would expect you be in the same boat

[30:17] as I am right now.

[30:18] You're like, "Oh, I know how long I got.

[30:20] I got 15 minutes before the paint is

[30:22] dry.

[30:23] I can get one or two of these small

[30:25] walls at a time, no problem." So now you

[30:27] can just start thinking about picking up

[30:29] your speed a little bit. This corner, we

[30:31] came shy of the ceiling the first coat,

[30:33] and this one when we went all the way

[30:35] up. But now we don't have that drag

[30:36] because we have an acrylic paint here.

[30:38] So now I can

[30:40] start my brush out,

[30:42] push it up into that corner and I'm

[30:44] really only focused on that 1/8 of an

[30:46] inch. And I can draw a line

[30:48] with relative ease here.

[30:51] We are dealing with a rather significant

[30:53] wall here and this paint, not this

[30:56] particular paint, but today's paint

[30:58] dries super fast. If I try to cut the

[31:00] rest of this wall before I start

[31:02] rolling,

[31:03] this paint is all going to dry. So, what

[31:05] we want to think now is wet edge. If you

[31:07] have a helper,

[31:08] one cut, one roll, that works the best.

[31:11] But, if you're by yourself, you can do

[31:13] 4-ft wall section at a time. You can cut

[31:15] 4-ft top and bottom and then roll out a

[31:18] 3-ft section. We're going to start the

[31:20] clock

[31:22] because this now becomes my wet edge,

[31:24] okay? The time it took me to extend my

[31:26] cut lines, this is still a wet edge.

[31:30] All right.

[31:32] And this is where the beauty of this

[31:33] system is.

[31:34] Working alone,

[31:37] anywhere your brush or roller is going

[31:38] to make contact

[31:40] with something that's previously

[31:41] painted, it has to be wet.

[31:44] Beautiful.

[31:46] So, let's talk about what to do when

[31:47] this happens.

[31:49] >> [laughter]

[31:50] >> New with a brush, you're going to have

[31:51] mistakes. It's normal and it's not a big

[31:53] deal. It's not the end of the world and

[31:54] here's a $3 solution.

[31:56] This is a silly little scraper I found

[31:58] in the paint department. It's actually

[32:00] designed for applying uh wallpaper and

[32:02] this is what we're going to call our

[32:03] spray shield.

[32:06] You guessed it. We need more kills.

[32:10] Whenever you're solving a problem in

[32:11] this environment, you really want to

[32:12] consider time. And again, by the time

[32:14] I'm done painting all the baseboard in

[32:15] this room, this will be dry and ready

[32:17] for a coat of paint. So,

[32:19] here we go. What we're going to do is

[32:21] we're going to shoot a little closer.

[32:28] And that's it. All right.

[32:31] All right, we're going to open up our

[32:32] trim paint now.

[32:33] I'm only painting the top part of the

[32:35] baseboard, not the whole thing. Show you

[32:36] how to do this here.

[32:39] Cuz this baseboard has got a lot of

[32:40] little detail, so

[32:41] I've got detail lines and I got a detail

[32:44] line here.

[32:45] When I'm painting, if I can get away

[32:46] with just painting this top detail,

[32:48] even if the white isn't a perfect match,

[32:50] no one can tell.

[32:51] So, we're going to set our brush here.

[32:53] We're not going to push. We're just

[32:54] going to drag.

[32:58] If you push, you're going to put too

[33:00] much pressure on the bristles and it's

[33:01] going to force the paint up the side and

[33:03] the top, make a mess. So, that's simple.

[33:06] This is all about don't use pressure.

[33:09] Let the brush do the work. Now, that's

[33:10] what it looks like finished. This is a

[33:12] great time. If you see anything on your

[33:14] your door casing that's a bit of an

[33:15] anomaly you don't like, same rule. Just

[33:18] get the brush in there.

[33:20] You can redraw [snorts] a line if you

[33:21] need to.

[33:22] No tape required.

[33:24] Truth is,

[33:26] the brush can do a better job of making

[33:27] a straight line than you can putting

[33:29] tape on straight. We're coming up to the

[33:32] where we did this the kills. We'll just

[33:34] make sure it she's dry.

[33:36] We're in good shape here, guys.

[33:37] Remember, less is more. If you're trying

[33:39] to put it on really thick so that you

[33:40] can cover the colors,

[33:42] it's a mistake. It'll take an hour and a

[33:43] half or 2 hours to dry.

[33:45] You're better to go two or three coats

[33:46] that only take 10 or 15 minutes to dry.

[33:48] Remember, a big bubble of paint will dry

[33:49] from the outside in.

[33:51] And if you run that brush through it,

[33:52] you're going to bust the bubble and

[33:54] expose all that fresh paint underneath.

[33:57] There we go. Now, yep, I definitely got

[33:59] some overspray.

[34:01] And that's fine.

[34:04] I'm going to wash this brush when I'm

[34:05] done, come back and cut that color in.

[34:08] There's my overspray. [snorts]

[34:10] One little spot.

[34:11] And there's nothing really to set the

[34:13] brush on, so this one you actually got

[34:14] to hold and draw. You want to just paint

[34:16] really with one like 1

[34:18] third of the brush, just the tip.

[34:21] Remember, if you want a perfect paint

[34:22] job,

[34:24] then you got to build the house

[34:25] yourself.

[34:27] Cuz a perfect finish comes with great

[34:28] construction,

[34:30] really nice drywall work, great

[34:31] carpentry skills.

[34:33] And every step of the production

[34:36] leans into whether or not the paint

[34:38] job's going to be any good.

[34:40] So, you make sure that you give yourself

[34:42] a little bit of mercy.

[34:44] And when you're done

[34:46] going around [music] the room, feel free

[34:48] to be critical now that you've had the

[34:50] experience.

[34:52] All right, guys. There you have it. No

[34:54] tape, no mess, and no landlord special.

[34:58] With the right product and the right

[34:59] technique, you can paint your bedroom in

[35:00] a weekend.